Saturday 15th July marks the 10th anniversary of the start of the Mountain Fire, one of the most impactful events in the modern history of the San Jacinto mountains, and certainly the most damaging fire to property, the forest, the local economy, and the trail system in living memory. About 27,500 acres and more than 20 buildings burned. Although some assessments have suggested the fire may have been beneficial to forest ecology (linked here) such positive impacts were confined to a relatively small area at the highest elevations where the fire burned. Elsewhere the fire was damaging to the forest, notably along the Desert Divide where the trails and surrounding vegetation will never be the same again. Many trails were shut for years, most require much more maintenance now than before the fire, and some remain functionally abandoned to this day.

A heatwave, more severe than the brief one at the beginning of July, is forecast to build and peak this weekend. Temperatures well above seasonal are forecast for all elevations on 14th-18th at least, and with near-record heat in the high country on 15th-17th. Above-average temperatures are expected to persist for 7-10 days. well into late July. Fire risk will be very high.

Hikers should be prepared for unseasonably hot weather at all elevations, with temperatures far above seasonal and early morning temperatures in particular expected to be about 15°F above average this weekend. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and water requirements.

With the exception of heavily drifted areas that traditionally melt late (notably the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak) the trail system is now clear of snow. The few snow patches that remain from this past remarkable winter will soon largely disappear in the forthcoming heatwave.

Daily survey hikes include a variety of routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 7th, 10th, and 14th July, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days. A sample of recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below.

Currently perennial creeks, pipes, and springs are flowing well (e.g., see photos in the previous Report), as are most ephemeral springs and creeks, although some of the latter are starting to dry. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98).

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards on trails. Trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. In recent weeks the Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. PCT Miles 179-181, eight trees), the informal trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws (10 trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail. In June 33 trees – from a total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail by volunteers, steadily making progress on the condition of that challenging trail (impacted by the 2013 Mountain Fire).

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri are now present on the trail system up to at least 8800 ft elevation. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in these mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, typically fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my article here for some further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes have been recorded to 9300 ft, usually favoring sun-exposed slopes.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) is in its poorest condition for at least a decade, but grading is scheduled to start in mid July. Until the road is graded 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on 4th June. Black Mountain fire lookout is currently not expected to reopen until late July, once grading of the road is completed.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

WEATHER

Six consecutive months of below average temperatures to start 2023 have ended abruptly. Following a minor heatwave in the first few days of July, a more severe heatwave is forecast for this week, starting on 14th and expected to last at least a week. Temperatures will peak well above seasonal averages on 14th-18th, with daytime highs approaching 95°F in Idyllwild at the weekend (15th-16th July) before cooling slightly next week, but expected to remain above seasonal. As is increasingly the trend in the San Jacinto mountains, the overnight “low” temperatures in particular will be as much as 15°F above seasonal at mid elevations.

The highest elevations will not be spared, with temperatures well above average for July for at least a week. Near-record temperatures are currently forecast around the highest peaks on 15th-18th July. At San Jacinto Peak temperatures above 60°F (15.5°C) are predicted for several consecutive days; most years there are only 1-3 days that warm at the Peak all summer.

There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts. Despite the wet winter and cool first half of the year, vegetation moisture levels have already dropped below average. The fire danger in the San Jacinto mountains is currently categorized as high to very high.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Friday 14th July 2023 at 0705 the air temperature was 58.5°F (15°C), with no observable windchill, 34% relative humidity, and completely calm wind conditions (which are extremely rare at the Peak).

At the Peak on Monday 10th July 2023 at 0720 the air temperature was 49.6°F (10°C), with a windchill temperature of 40.1°F (5°C), 18% relative humidity, and a stiff SSW wind sustained at 15 mph gusting to 30.1 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 7th July 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 52.7°F (12°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 46.3°F (8°C), 4.8% relative humidity, and a light but steady due West wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 14.7 mph. This average relative humidity measurement (which briefly dropped as low as 4.2%) is the lowest ever reliably recorded at San Jacinto Peak, breaking a record set just two days earlier (see below). Prior to 2023, I had only recorded RH as low as 7% on three occasions.

At the Peak on Wednesday 5th July 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 55.8°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 53.2°F (12°C), 5% relative humidity, and a light but steady SW wind sustained at 5 mph gusting to 6.3 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is now functionally clear of snow. Traction devices are no longer required.

Snow cover averages about 5% around San Jacinto Peak. With careful route-finding – such as ascending the Peak via southern rather than eastern routes – no snow hiking is required.

Deer Springs Trail is now clear of snow, but has about 15 significant treefall hazards. Little Round Valley is now functionally clear of snow (a handful of minor drifts remain). Water is flowing very well there and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has a couple of tiny snow patches remaining on its southernmost sheltered 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction [surveyed 10th July], but is otherwise clear.

The Peak Trail has extremely limited patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide to 9900 ft is clear. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is <10% and the trail is obvious. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft are clear. The East Ridge Trail remains partly obscured under about 25% snow cover, but the remaining snow is heavily drifted and has melted very unevenly forming “sun cups” (photo in prior Report linked here).

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly in July.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow but there are four notable new treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) section.

Willow Creek Trail remains been a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles due to treefall hazards and whitethorn overgrowth, but thanks to the work of volunteers the situation has improved in recent weeks. There are plans in place to cut the remaining trees on the Forest Service section in the next month or so, weather permitting. As of early July 2023, about 35 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 25 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. Another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the trail with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The considerable amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

The PCT is now clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains. Treefall hazards are a problem in many places but most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the 2013 Mountain Fire).

Trails clear of both snow and treefall hazards include Black Mountain Trail, Ernie Maxwell Trail, and Devil’s Slide Trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained by the Trail Report, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is now clear of snow. The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) currently requires considerable caution. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

A heatwave in the first few days of July produced above seasonal temperatures at mid elevations, and well-above average temperatures at upper elevations. Daytime highs reached 80°F (27°C) at 8600 ft elevation in Long Valley for three consecutive days on 1st-3rd July, where there is considerable weather influence from the Coachella Valley.

After a brief cooling this week to temperatures a little below average for July, a more severe heatwave is forecast for next week, with temperatures well above seasonal at all elevations, and near-record heat in the high country. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak are given below in the Weather section.

With the exception of heavily drifted areas that traditionally melt late (notably the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak) the trail system is now clear of snow. Spikes are no longer required. Melting has been dramatic in Little Round Valley in the past week, and it is now largely clear (photos below). For readers interested in snow depths recorded in the San Jacinto mountains during this past remarkable winter, they were last listed in a recent Report available here.

Daily survey hikes include a variety of routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 4th and 5th July, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days.

Currently perennial creeks, pipes, and springs are flowing well (e.g., see photos below), as are most ephemeral springs and creeks, although some of the latter are starting to dry. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards on trails. Trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. In recent weeks the Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. PCT Miles 179-181, eight trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail and the informal use trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws. In June 33 trees – from a total of about 68 – have been cut from Willow Creek Trail by volunteers, steadily making progress on the condition of that challenging trail.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus [oreganus] helleri) are now widespread on the trail system up to at least 8800 ft elevation. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in these mountains is largely neurotoxic, typically fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see article linked here for further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes occur up to at least 9300 ft, often favoring warm, sun-exposed slopes.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on 4th June. Black Mountain fire lookout is currently not expected to reopen until the road is graded, possibly in July.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

WEATHER

Six delightful months of below average temperatures to start 2023 ended abruptly this past weekend with a brief heatwave, with temperatures, especially overnight lows, well above seasonal even for July.

After a brief cooling this week to temperatures a little below average for the month, a more severe heatwave is forecast for next week. Temperatures will be well above average for July at all elevations, with overnight “low” temperatures in particular at least 10°F above seasonal at mid elevations. The high country will not be spared, with near-record temperatures currently forecast around the highest peaks for 12th-17th July.

There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts. The fire danger in the San Jacinto mountains is currently categorized as high or very high.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Wednesday 5th July 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 55.8°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 53.2°F (12°C), 5% relative humidity, and a light but steady SW wind sustained at 5 mph gusting to 6.3 mph. This relative humidity measurement of only 5% is the lowest ever reliably recorded at San Jacinto Peak.

At the Peak on Tuesday 4th July 2023 at 0655 the air temperature was 47.1°F (8°C), with a windchill temperature of 36.0°F (2°C), 16% relative humidity, and a harsh WSW wind sustained at 20 mph gusting to 30.2 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 26th June 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 29.3°F (-2°C), 37% relative humidity, and a very fresh SW wind sustained at 16 mph gusting to 27.5 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is now functionally clear of snow. Traction devices are no longer required.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow up to Little Round Valley (just a handful of easily traversed patches remain). Snow cover is now <10% through Little Round Valley following very rapid melting in the past week. The designated camping areas are now clear. Above Little Round Valley only a handful of drifted snow patches remain, but they have obvious tracks up and over, or they can be hiked around.

Snow cover averages about 20% around San Jacinto Peak, ranging from <10% on the south facing slopes to 40% on the north and east slopes. With careful route-finding – such as ascending the Peak via southern rather than eastern routes – spikes are not required.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are clear of snow, but with significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has a couple of small snow patches remaining on its southernmost sheltered 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but is otherwise clear.

The Peak Trail has very limited patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide to 9900 ft is clear and the track now follows the trail route. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is <10% and the trail is obvious but in a couple of places diverts around some icy drifts. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft are functionally clear, with just a couple of minor snow patches to traverse. The East Ridge Trail remains partly obscured under about 40% snow cover, but the remaining snow is heavily drifted and has melted very unevenly (forming “sun cups”, photo above).

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow both north and south of Tahquitz Peak. Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly in July.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow. There is significant water flowing in the trail in places in its uppermost mile, and there are four notable treefall hazards.

Willow Creek Trail remains been a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles due to treefall hazards and whitethorn overgrowth, but thanks to the work of volunteers the situation has improved in recent weeks. As of the end of June 2023, about 35 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 25 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. Another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the trail with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The considerable amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Trail trimming is undertaken regularly. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

Overall, the PCT is now functionally clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains. Treefall hazards are a problem in many places but most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. Many large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175.

Trails clear of both snow and treefall hazards include Black Mountain Trail, Ernie Maxwell Trail, and Devil’s Slide Trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained by the Trail Report, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. Of 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter, ten were removed in June and the one remaining large trunk is easy to pass. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is now functionally clear of snow. The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will remain a tricky crossing into July. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

Localized, patchy snow remains in parts of the high country, but with the exception of a handful of sheltered areas that traditionally melt late (see Trail Conditions below), the trail system is largely clear of snow. Hikers may find that carrying spikes continues to be useful especially if hiking off-trail above about 9800 ft elevation, but with judicious route-finding spikes are not generally required on-trail.

With so little snow remaining I am no longer reporting snow depths. For readers interested in the maximum snow depths recorded in the San Jacinto mountains during this past remarkable winter, they are listed in a recent Report (available here). Images of the winter snow at its most impressive are available in various prior Reports (perhaps best at the beginning and end of March, linked here and here, respectively).

The cool temperatures that have been the dominant theme of the first six months of 2023 in the San Jacinto mountains will soon be a distant but pleasant memory. At the end of this week hot summer temperatures finally arrive, and what snow remains will of course quickly disappear. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak are given below in the Weather section.

Our daily hikes include multiple routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 23rd and 26th June, plus many other trails on intervening days. With the snow rapidly disappearing, increasingly the focus of some volunteers, including myself, is on trail clearance and maintenance work, sorely needed after a wild winter.

Currently all perennial waters, pipes, springs, etc. are flowing well, as are most ephemeral springs and creeks (although a few are starting to dry up). This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and where still snowy, under) the trails. A tolerance for wet feet, or appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant, is strongly recommended. Be cautious of the few remaining fragile snow bridges over water.

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. Trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. Miles 179-181, eight trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail and the informal use trail down to Laws, in recent weeks. Kevin Cadieux led a PCTA crew that cleared 24 trees south from Fobes Saddle along the PCT in late May. In June 33 trees – from a total of about 68 – have been cut from Willow Creek Trail, steadily making progress on the condition of that especially challenging trail.

Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) have been seen on the trail system up to at least 8000 ft elevation since late May. The lower two-thirds of Devil’s Slide Trail, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around Tahquitz Peak are three common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes are possible anywhere up to about 9300 ft. Rattlesnakes will get much more active with hot weather in the next week or so.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on Sunday 4th June. Access via South Ridge Trail is clear from both directions, the PCT/Chinquapin Flat to the north, or South Ridge Road (5S11) to the south, but note the latter remains closed to vehicle traffic. Black Mountain fire lookout is not expected to reopen until the road is graded, in July at the earliest.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all other Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

Ramona Trail remains closed due to prescribed burning operations on Thomas Mountain.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

WEATHER

With only one or two exceptions, daily daytime high temperatures have been 5-20°F below seasonal averages for most of June, while overnight lows have been closer to, but still generally below, seasonal. The overnight low temperature in Idyllwild of 36°F (2°C) on Friday 23rd June came close to the historical record low for that date and location.

This cool trend is ending, with temperatures rapidly accelerating from below seasonal on Wednesday 28th June to above average – and hot summer temperatures for the first time this year – by Friday 30th. In three days daytime high temperatures may climb by 20°F, and overnight low temperatures by about 15°F. After a very hot first few days of July, temperatures will fall to about seasonal, before potentially rising again in the second week of the month. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 26th June 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 29.3°F (-2°C), 37% relative humidity, and a very fresh SW wind sustained at 16 mph gusting to 27.5 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 23rd June 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 38.6°F (3°C), with a windchill temperature of 26.6°F (-3°C), 14% relative humidity, and a cool due West wind sustained at 14 mph gusting to 19.9 mph.

At the Peak on Sunday 18th June 2023 at 0645 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.2°F (-2°C), 52% relative humidity, and a stiff WSW wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 28.4 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain partly snow-covered above about 9700 ft. Trails below that elevation are now generally clear of snow, but elevations between 8800-9800 ft retain some snow patches in the most sheltered areas, rarely more than about 10% snow cover. Some hikers may find that spikes remain useful in a handful of high country areas, notably through Little Round Valley and on East Ridge, mainly for descending, but that they are no longer required.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow from the Highway 243 trailhead to near the Marion Mountain Trail junction, and functionally clear up to Little Round Valley (just a few easily traversed patches remain). Snow cover remains 40% and both very patchy but heavily drifted through Little Round Valley, but there is now a predominant boot track that largely follows the trail route. The designated camping areas are now largely clear. Above Little Round Valley snow cover averages about 10% and following the actual trail route has become much easier; the most significant drifted snow patches have obvious tracks up and over, or they can be hiked around.

Snow cover averages about 30% around San Jacinto Peak, ranging from only 10% on the south facing slopes to 90% on the north and east slopes. With careful route-finding – such as ascending the Peak via southern rather than eastern routes – spikes are not generally required.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are clear of snow, but with significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has a very patchy 10% snow cover on its southernmost forested 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but is clear thereafter.

The Peak Trail has very limited patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide to 9900 ft is functionally clear and the track now follows the trail route. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is about 10% and the predominant boot track diverts around some major icy drifts away from the trail route in places. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft are functionally clear, with just a couple of extended snow patches to traverse. The East Ridge Trail boot track goes over largely continuous and very unevenly melted snow.

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow both north and south of Tahquitz Peak. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, probably in July.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow to the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. There is significant water flowing in the trail in places in its uppermost mile, and there are half-a-dozen notable treefall hazards.

Willow Creek Trail remains been a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles, but thanks to hard-working volunteers the situation has improved substantially in recent weeks. As of the end of June 2023, about 35 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 25 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. Another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the trail with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The considerable amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail in late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to at least 85 since July 2021. Trail trimming is undertaken regularly. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

Overall, the PCT is now functionally clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains. Treefall hazards are a problem in many places but most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted at least 96 between Miles 169-175 in May and June 2023. Many large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175.

Trails clear of both snow and treefall hazards include Black Mountain Trail, Ernie Maxwell Trail, and Devil’s Slide Trail.

Seven Pines Trail is now functionally clear of snow (a few patches remain in the uppermost 0.25 mile above 8500 ft). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will remain a tricky crossing into July. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without significant experience of hiking this trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails no longer exist and are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained by the Trail Report, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. Of 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter, ten were removed in June and the remaining large one is easy to pass. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

With relatively little snow remaining – and what’s left now being very patchy – I am no longer reporting snow depths. However there is snow remaining in the high country, in places enough to be potentially hazardous. Trails above about 9700 ft (west side) and 9900 ft (east side) remain partly or mostly obscured by drifted icy snow. Trails as low as about 8900 ft elevation (on both flanks) have more limited patchy snow cover, mainly in sheltered areas that traditionally melt late. Cautious navigation remains valuable everywhere.

For readers interested in the maximum snow depths recorded at various locations in the San Jacinto mountains this past winter, they are listed in a recent past Report (available here). Images of this past winter’s snow at its most impressive are available in various prior Reports (perhaps best at the beginning and end of March 2023, linked here and here, respectively).

In keeping with the theme of 2023 to date, temperatures in June have been pleasantly cool and generally well below seasonal. They are finally forecast to rise, quite abruptly, to about seasonal for the month from Sunday 25th onwards, and then to well above average by the end of the month. Melting of remaining snow will accelerate markedly.

Our daily hikes include various routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, plus many other trails on intervening days. With the snow rapidly disappearing, increasingly the focus of some volunteers, including myself, is on trail clearance and maintenance work.

Spikes are no longer required for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the main east and west side routes, nor for other high country peaks. On Sunday 18th June for example, barebooting was relatively straightforward up to the Peak via Marion Mountain and upper Deer Springs trails, descending the Peak, Wellman, and Devil’s Slide trails back to Idyllwild (photos below). Some hikers will find that spikes remain useful in certain high country areas, notably through Little Round Valley and on East Ridge, mainly for descending, but that they are no longer required.

Currently all possible seasonal and perennial waters, pipes, springs, etc. are flowing well. I have not seen so much water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky stream and river crossings. Sections of Deer Springs Trail in particular will likely remain ephemeral streams for the next month or so. Appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant is strongly recommended. Be cautious of the few remaining fragile snow bridges over water.

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers should anticipate encountering new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. Trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. Miles 179-181, eight trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail and the use trail to Laws, in recent weeks. Forest Service volunteers cut trees from the Ernie Maxwell and Devil’s Slide trails in late May. Kevin Cadieux led a PCTA crew that cleared 24 trees south from Fobes Saddle along the PCT in late May. Twenty small trees – from a total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail on 8th June, not yet significantly improving the condition of that especially challenging trail, but progress is being made.

Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) have been seen on the trail system up to at least 7500 ft elevation since late May. The lower two-thirds of Devil’s Slide Trail, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around Tahquitz Peak are three common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes are possible anywhere up to at least 9300 ft. Rattlesnakes will get much more active with warmer weather expected in late June.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on Sunday 4th June. Safe access is now possible via South Ridge Trail from both directions, the PCT/Chinquapin Flat to the north (crossing a couple of tiny snow patches), or South Ridge Road (5S11) to the south, but note the latter remains closed to vehicle traffic. Black Mountain fire lookout will not reopen until the road is graded, which is not expected until July.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all other Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

WEATHER

With only one or two exceptions, daily daytime high temperatures have been 5-20°F below seasonal averages in the first three weeks of June, while overnight lows have been closer to, but still generally below, seasonal. This cool trend remains for much of this week, with temperatures finally rising to about seasonal for June from Sunday 25th, and then continuing to rise to above average at all elevations – to hot summer temperatures for the first time this year – for the final couple of days of the month. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Sunday 18th June 2023 at 0645 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.2°F (-2°C), 52% relative humidity, and a stiff WSW wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 28.4 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 12th June 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 46.0°F (8°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 43.8°F (7°C), 48% relative humidity, and effectively calm conditions with the lightest WSW breeze gusting to 1.2 mph.

At the Peak on Saturday 10th June 2023 at 0655 the air temperature was 40.5°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.9°F (-1°C), 19% relative humidity, and a moderate SSW wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 14.4 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain partly or largely snow-covered above about 9800 ft. Trails below about 9800 ft are now generally clear of snow, but elevations between 8800-9800 ft locally retain some snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically only 10-20% snow cover.

Both the Ernie Maxwell Trail and Devil’s Slide Trail are completely clear of snow.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are functionally clear of snow, with just a few patches remaining in the most sheltered locations, but with significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has 30% snow cover on its southernmost 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but is clear thereafter. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places for a few tenths of a mile around Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail has very limited patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide to 9900 ft is functionally clear and the track largely follows the trail route. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is about 40% and the boot track only partly follows the trail. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft average only 10% snow cover and are clearing rapidly. The predominant boot track now follows the normal trail route around to Summit Junction. The East Ridge boot track remains obvious but goes over almost continuous and very lumpy snow.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow from the Highway 243 trailhead to near the Marion Mountain Trail junction. From there snow cover averages only about 10% up to Little Round Valley, with many lengthy clear sections. Snow cover remains 60% and heavily drifted through Little Round Valley, and there is no predominant boot track that accurately follows the trail route. Most of the designated camping areas are now largely clear. Above Little Round Valley snow cover averages about 40%, but with an extended central portion under 50% snow cover, and conversely the uppermost exposed switchbacks now less than 20% snow covered. Following the actual trail route is becoming easier. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially through and above Little Round Valley. Spikes can be useful (but are no longer required), especially for descending.

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak on the southern approach from South Ridge Road, and functionally clear of snow on the northern approach from Chinquapin Flat/PCT. The latter 0.4 mile section has two tiny snow patches remaining, but with excellent tracks with easy steps to follow through the snow and do not require spikes. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and should reopen once graded, expected in the next month.

Willow Creek Trail is frankly a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles. At least 48 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over) [multiple surveys in June 2023]. There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 38 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. At least another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the trail with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The huge amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow to the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. There is significant water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, and there are half-a-dozen notable treefall hazards.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail in late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to at least 85 since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

Black Mountain Trail is clear of both snow and treefall hazards.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow to 8500 ft elevation (about three miles up from the trailhead). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will remain a tricky crossing into July. Patchy snow cover between 8500 ft and the junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT (at about 8700 ft) averages about 10%. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without significant experience of hiking this trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails no longer exist and are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, relatively well maintained, and avoids all of the very challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some local hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. Of ten trees down on the King Trail [surveyed 11th June 2023], three have been removed, but none of the remaining seven are significant hazards. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with careful route-finding. My autumn 2022 survey counted 97 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure 0.1-0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious near Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

The high country trails continue to be a mix of icy snow drifts to hike around or up-and-over and cleared patches. Temperatures so far in June have been pleasantly cool and generally well below seasonal, but are forecast to rise to about average for the month starting Wednesday 21st.

Humber Park, including Devil’s Slide trailhead, will be closed on 12th-14th June due to pesticide spraying work. The area will be closed to both parking and hiking access, according to the closure order posted at Humber this past weekend. [I confirmed that Humber Park had reopened on the evening of Wednesday 14th June.]

Our daily survey hikes include various routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, typically South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails weekly, and many other trails on intervening days. With the snow rapidly disappearing increasingly the focus of volunteers, including myself, is on trail clearance and maintenance work.

Spikes are no longer required for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the main east and west side routes, nor for other high country peaks, especially given the firmer snow in recent cool weather. On Saturday 10th and Monday 12th June for example, barebooting was relatively straightforward to and from the Peak on upper Deer Springs and Peak trails, respectively, but the previous week spikes had been useful descending to about 9900 ft. Some hikers will find that spikes remain useful in the high country, mainly for descending, but they are no longer required.

Trails above about 9700 ft (west side) and 9900 ft (east side) remain largely, or at least partly, obscured by drifted icy snow. Trails as low as about 8700 ft elevation (on both flanks) have increasingly patchy snow cover, especially on more northerly-facing slopes. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Recently I have had several inquiries regarding water availability for campers in the high country. Given the typically dry conditions of the past decade, such questions are understandable. Currently there is water everywhere, and all possible seasonal and perennial waters, pipes, springs, etc. are flowing well. Personally I have not seen so much water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

Details of average snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting, with the greatest snow depth recorded this winter for comparison.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky stream and river crossings. Lengthy sections of Deer Springs Trail in particular will likely remain ephemeral streams for the next month or so. Appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant is strongly recommended. Be cautious of fragile snow bridges over water.

Hikers should anticipate encountering new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While this is partly a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, exacerbated by wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change.

Despite many new fallen trees in the recent remarkable winter, trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail and the use trail to Laws, in recent weeks. Forest Service volunteers cut trees from the Ernie Maxwell and Devil’s Slide trails in late May. Kevin Cadieux led a PCTA crew that cleared 24 trees south from Fobes Saddle along the PCT in late May. Twenty small trees – from a total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail on 8th June, not yet significantly improving the condition of that especially challenging trail, but at least progress is being made.

Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) have been seen on the trail system up to at least 7500 ft elevation since late May. The lower two-thirds of Devil’s Slide Trail, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around Tahquitz Peak are three common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes are possible anywhere up to at least 9300 ft.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on Sunday 4th June. Safe access is now possible via South Ridge Trail from both directions, the PCT/Chinquapin Flat to the north (crossing a couple of tiny snow patches), or South Ridge Road (5S11) to the south, but note the latter remains closed to vehicle traffic. Black Mountain fire lookout will not reopen until Black Mountain Road (4S01) is graded, possibly in June.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11). Santa Rosa Road (7S02) reopened in early June. Black Mountain Road (4S01) is nominally closed but has effectively reopened. The gate 1.7 miles from the highway was vandalized repeatedly in mid May and the Forest Service decided not to attempt to lock it again. The road is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded – expected later in June – 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended.

The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May. Forest Service campgrounds at Fern Basin, Marion Mountain and Boulder Basin reopened in early June, but Dark Canyon campground remains closed at this time.

WEATHER

Daytime high temperatures were generally 10-20°F below seasonal averages in the first half of June, while overnight lows were closer to, but still slightly below, seasonal. This temperature pattern is changing, with warming during the course of this week, and then stronger warming in the following week with temperatures finally about seasonal for June from Wednesday 21st onwards. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 12th June 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 46.0°F (8°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 43.8°F (7°C), 48% relative humidity, and effectively calm conditions with the lightest WSW breeze gusting to 1.2 mph.

At the Peak on Saturday 10th June 2023 at 0655 the air temperature was 40.5°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.9°F (-1°C), 19% relative humidity, and a moderate SSW wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 14.4 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 5th June 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 41.1°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 27.5°F (-2°C), 32% relative humidity, and a sharp SE wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 27.4 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain partly or largely snow-covered above about 9800 ft. Trails below about 8800 ft are now generally clear of snow. Elevations between 8800-9800 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average only 10-20% snow cover.

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. Spikes remain potentially useful for three relatively short sections. The trail is clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section, I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 in May. Snow cover is about 10% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 177.7 (Chinquapin Flat). Some hikers may find spikes useful on this section although the boot track is well-defined and relatively flat. Snow cover is very patchy and averages <10% between Miles 177.7 to Saddle Junction (about Mile 179). The south-facing slope of Miles 179-180 is clear of snow, but from Mile 180 (elevation 8900 ft) to about Mile 181 just past Annie’s Junction snow cover is 70%. Miles 181-185 are clear, then snow cover increases (about 50%) from Mile 185. Spikes can be useful on the snowy parts of this section, but are not required at this time depending upon personal preference and experience. Snow cover averages 30% along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). The track does now largely follow the PCT route. Miles 185.5-187.5 average about 30% snow cover, Miles 187.6-188.5 (a south-facing slope) are clear, Miles 188.5-190 have 50% snow cover, and finally Miles 190-191 are now largely clear. Spikes can be useful for Fuller Ridge but they are no longer required, again depending on comfort level hiking on patchy icy snow.

Both the Ernie Maxwell Trail and Devil’s Slide Trail are completely clear of snow.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are functionally clear of snow, with just a few patches remaining in the most sheltered locations, but significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has 70% snow cover on its southernmost 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but is functionally clear thereafter. The portion of the track with most snow cover does not always accurately follow the trail route. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places for a few tenths of a mile around Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail has increasingly patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide has only 10% snow cover for about a mile to 9900 ft and the track largely follows the trail route. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is about 90% and the boot track only partly follows the trail. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft average 40% snow cover and are clearing rapidly. The predominant boot track now follows the normal trail route around to Summit Junction. The East Ridge boot track remains obvious but goes over continuous and very lumpy snow.

There is a well-traveled boot track through 50% snow cover following the trail route up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide. Round Valley itself is largely clear of snow.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow from the Highway 243 trailhead to near the Marion Mountain Trail junction. The 0.6 mile from there to the Fuller Ridge Trail junction averages 40% snow cover. Once Deer Springs Trail leaves the PCT at the Fuller Ridge Trail junction, snow cover averages only about 10% up to Little Round Valley, with many lengthy clear sections. Snow cover remains 70% and heavily drifted through Little Round Valley, and there is no predominant boot track that accurately follows the trail route. Some of the designated camping areas are now largely clear. Above Little Round Valley snow cover averages about 50%, but with an extended central portion under 70% snow cover, and conversely the uppermost exposed switchbacks now less than 20% snow covered. Following the actual trail route is becoming easier, while the various winter season boot tracks have now largely melted out and are invisible and/or of little use. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially through and above Little Round Valley. Spikes can be useful (but are no longer required), especially for descending.

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak on the southern approach from South Ridge Road, and functionally clear of snow on the northern approach from Chinquapin Flat/PCT. The latter 0.4 mile section has three tiny snow patches remaining, but all have excellent tracks with easy steps to follow through the snow and do not require spikes. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and will reopen once graded, possibly later in June.

Willow Creek Trail [surveyed 11th June] is frankly a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles. At least 48 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 38 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. At least another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the section with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The huge amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

Marion Mountain Trail is now clear of snow to the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. There is significant water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, along with half-a-dozen notable treefall hazards.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards, plus many branches and other debris, from Spitler Peak Trail in late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to at least 85 since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are minor for hikers, but the trail is not passable to stock.

Black Mountain Trail is clear of both snow and treefall hazards. Boulder Basin campground reopened on 8th June.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow to 8300 ft elevation (about 2.5 miles up from the trailhead). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This may remain a tricky crossing into July. Patchy snow cover steadily increases between 8300 ft and the junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT (at about 8700 ft), but overall averages about 20%. Some drifts obscure key switchbacks on the upper trail, and navigation, always a little tricky on this trail at the best of times, will be challenging for those not thoroughly familiar with this route. Of seven new treefall hazards on the trail below the snow line, six were removed by the Trail Report in late May, and a good start was made on clearing the trail of branches and other debris. Dark Canyon Road – the access for the Seven Pines trailhead – remains closed to vehicles for the foreseeable future.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails no longer exist and are so heavily overgrown I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, relatively well maintained, and avoids all of the very challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some local hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. Of ten trees down on the King Trail [surveyed 11th June 2023], three have been removed, but none of the remaining seven are significant hazards. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with careful route-finding. My autumn 2022 survey counted 97 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure 0.1-0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious near Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 10th-12th June 2023. The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting (and of rain on snow in some March storms), there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 12-18 inches, many large clear patches developing and snow cover about 50%, but drifts 2-4 feet deep remain in places, especially on East Ridge (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 20 inches, about 70% snow cover, drifts 2-4 feet deep in places.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 9 inches, ranging from 0-25 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 8 inches, snow cover 40% here (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 0 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

UPDATE Sunday 11th June 2023: Humber Park, including the Devil’s Slide trailhead, will be closed on 12th-14th June for pesticide spraying operations. The area will be closed to both parking and hiking according to the closure order posted at Humber this weekend.

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The steady melt of the winter snowpack continues, and the high country trails are increasingly a mix of cleared patches and large icy drifts to go up-and-over. Most notable is the recent clearing of one of the most popular hiking trails, the short spur of South Ridge Trail up to Tahquitz Peak from Chinquapin Flat/PCT Mile 177.7. Other than a seasonably warm weekend on 3rd-4th, temperatures so far in June have been below seasonal, and are forecast to remain pleasantly cool until mid month.

Recently I have had several inquiries regarding water availability for campers in the high country. Given the typically dry conditions of the past decade, such questions are understandable. Currently there is water everywhere, and all possible seasonal and perennial waters, pipes, springs, etc. are flowing well. Personally I have not seen so much water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

Our daily survey hikes include different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails weekly, and other trails on intervening days. With the snow rapidly disappearing, increasingly I am spending time on trail clearance and maintenance work.

On multiple hikes in recent days I have not required spikes for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the main east and west side routes, especially on firmer snow given the cooler weather. On Monday 5th June for example, barebooting was relatively straightforward to the Peak on Deer Springs Trail, but spikes were useful descending back down to Little Round Valley to about 9800 ft. Broadly speaking spikes continue to be useful in the high country, and some hikers may even prefer trail crampons.

Trails above about 9700 ft remain largely obscured by heavily drifted snow (lower in places). Trails as low as about 8700 ft elevation retain some patchy snow cover, especially on north-facing slopes. The reliable and obvious boot tracks of April and early May have become very scrappy with the widespread but patchy melting of recent weeks. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting, alongside the greatest snow depth recorded this past winter for comparison.

Spikes remain useful for the foreseeable future above about 9000 ft (potentially lower in places) but they are no longer be required on most routes, and depending on your comfort level hiking on icy or softening snow, and the quality of footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move slowly upwards with melting of snow, but spikes will remain useful for many hikers throughout June at least in parts of the high country. Spikes tend to be helpful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming less valuable, but remain potentially useful above about 9000 ft. They can be most useful off-trail in the high country on colder mornings. They are no longer required on the short section of South Ridge Trail across the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky stream and river crossings. Lengthy sections of Deer Springs Trail in particular will basically remain ephemeral streams for the next month or two. Appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant is strongly recommended. Be especially cautious of the many fragile and potentially dangerous snow bridges across water.

Hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While this is partly a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change.

Trails are steadily being cleared of treefall hazards by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared 14 and 38 trees from South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails, respectively, and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail, all since mid May. Forest Service volunteers recently cut trees from the Ernie Maxwell and Devil’s Slide trails. Kevin Cadieux led a PCTA crew that cleared 24 trees south from Fobes Saddle along the PCT last week. Twenty small trees – from a total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail on 8th June, sadly not significantly improving the condition of that challenging trail, but at least progress is being made.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near freezing in the high country, and below freezing when considering wind chill effects, at least on some days (see below for my most recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) have been seen on the trail system up to at least 7500 ft elevation since late May. The lower two-thirds of Devil’s Slide Trail, near Strawberry Cienega, and around Tahquitz Peak are typically locations with many sightings, but rattlesnakes are possible anywhere up to at least 9300 ft once temperatures ameliorate. Anyone interested in learning more about the unique rattlesnakes of the San Jacinto mountains, and the relationship that my dog and I have with them, may want to read an article I wrote in July 2020 (link here).

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on Sunday 4th June. Safe access is now possible via South Ridge Trail from both directions, the PCT/Chinquapin Flat to the north, or South Ridge Road (5S11) to the south, but note the latter remains closed to vehicle traffic. Black Mountain fire lookout will not reopen until Black Mountain Road (4S01) is graded, expected to be later in June.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11). Santa Rosa Road (7S02) reopened in early June. The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May. Forest Service campgrounds at Fern Basin and Marion Mountain reopened at the beginning of June, but Boulder Basin and Dark Canyon campgrounds remain closed at this time. Black Mountain Road (4S01) is nominally closed but has effectively reopened. The gate 1.7 miles from the highway was vandalized repeatedly in mid May and the Forest Service decided not to attempt to lock it again. The road is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded – expected later in June – 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April.

WEATHER

Temperatures generally below seasonal averages have been a consistent theme for most of 2023 so far, and this is forecast to continue in the first half of June. Daytime high temperatures will be around 10-15°F below average, but even cooler on 6th-7th and 10th-12th, while overnight lows will be nearer, but still slightly below, seasonal, into the middle of the month.

There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts, but as we experienced in the last week of May, some days over the next two weeks may be partly cloudy at mid elevations on the western side of the mountain range as the lifted marine layer hugs the hillsides at around 5000 ft elevation, occasionally moving higher, and always bringing the possibility of misty drizzle.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 5th June 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 41.1°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 27.5°F (-2°C), 32% relative humidity, and a sharp SE wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 27.4 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 1st June 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 33.3°F (1°C), 38% relative humidity, and a light ESE wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 8.8 mph.

At the Peak on Tuesday 30th May 2023 at 0840 the air temperature was 38.5°F (4°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.0°F (-2°C), 18% relative humidity, and a fresh due South wind sustained at 7 mph gusting to 13.4 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain largely or completely snow-covered above about 9700 ft. Trails below about 8700 ft are now generally clear of snow. Elevations between 8700-9700 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 10-50% snow cover.

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. Spikes remain useful for three relatively short sections. The trail is clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section, I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 in May. Snow cover is about 30% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 177.7 (Chinquapin Flat). Some hikers may find spikes useful on this section although the boot track is well-defined and relatively flat. Snow cover is increasingly patchy and averages only about 10% between Miles 177.7 to Saddle Junction (about Mile 179). The south-facing slope of Miles 179-180 is clear of snow, but from Mile 180 (elevation 8900 ft) to about Mile 181 just past Annie’s Junction snow cover is 80% and the track can be hard to follow in places. Miles 181-184 are clear, then snow cover increases (>50%) from Mile 184.5. Spikes can be useful on the snowy parts of this section, but are not required at this time for hikers experienced with snow travel. Snow cover averages 30% along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). The track does now largely follow the PCT route. Miles 185.5-187.5 average about 40% snow cover, Miles 187.6-188.5 (a south-facing slope) are clear, Miles 188.5-190 have 70% snow cover, and finally Miles 190-191 are now largely clear. Spikes are useful for Fuller Ridge but they are no longer required, depending on personal comfort level hiking on patchy icy snow.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow to Saddle Junction. Spikes are not required.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are functionally clear of snow, with just a few patches remaining in the most sheltered locations. There are seven significant treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, with a few others elsewhere around the meadows.

The Wellman Trail has largely continuous snow cover on its southern 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but snow cover is a very patchy 20% thereafter. The southern portion of the track (with continuous snow cover) does not always accurately follow the trail route, but the remainder of the track is now largely true to the trail route. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places for a few tenths of a mile around Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail route remains largely snow-covered. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide has 20% snow cover for about a mile to 9900 ft and the track largely follows the trail route, but thereafter snow cover is about 90%. Around 9900-10,100 ft the predominant boot track does not follow the trail route. Close to San Jacinto Peak the predominant boot track ascends directly up the East Ridge over continuous lumpy snow cover. There are now some lighlty-traveled tracks to follow through the snow on the uppermost switchbacks of the typical Peak Trail route.

There is a well-traveled boot track through 60% snow cover largely following the trail route up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide. Extensive clear patches are opening up in and around Round Valley, though few are actually in the designated camping areas.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to near the Marion Mountain Trail junction. The 0.6 mile from there to the Fuller Ridge Trail junction averages 60% snow cover. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, the trail is clear for the first mile (to about 9300 ft elevation). Thereafter snow cover averages about 40% up to Little Round Valley, with a mix of extensive clear patches and short sections of near-continuous snow. Snow cover remains 80% and heavily drifted through Little Round Valley, and there is no predominant boot track that follows the actual trail route. Some of the designated camping areas now have cleared areas suitable for a tent or two. Above Little Round Valley snow cover averages about 70%, with the lowest exposed section at 60%, then an extended central portion at 90% snow cover, and the uppermost exposed switchbacks now only about 40% snow covered. Following the actual trail route is not easy, and the various snow season boot tracks have now largely melted out and are of limited use. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially through and above Little Round Valley. Spikes can be useful (but are no longer essential) especially for descending.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky as it is swollen with snowmelt.

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak on the southern approach from South Ridge Road, and functionally clear of snow on the northern approach from Chinquapin Flat/PCT. The latter 0.4 mile section has a handful of tiny snow patches remaining, but all have excellent tracks with easy steps to follow through the snow and do not require spikes (photo above). Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and will reopen once graded, possibly later in June.

Marion Mountain Trail is now clear of snow to the PCT, a couple of tiny patches remain at the top. There is a great deal of water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, along with half-a-dozen notable treefall hazards.

The Trail Report removed 38 treefall hazards, plus many branches and other debris, from Spitler Peak Trail in late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to at least 85 in the past two years. The trail is now clear of treefall hazards. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places. The trail is not passable to horses.

Black Mountain Trail is functionally clear of snow. A few minor patches remain on the climber’s trail route from the top of Black Mountain Trail to near the fire lookout. Boulder Basin campground remains closed at this time.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow to 8200 ft elevation (about 2.5 miles up from the trailhead). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will likely remain a tricky crossing into July. Patchy snow cover steadily increases between 8200 ft and the junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT (at about 8700 ft), but overall averages about 40%. Many of the drifts obscure key sections and switchbacks on the upper trail, and navigation will be challenging for those not thoroughly familiar with this trail. There is a very lightly traveled and poorly defined boot track through the snow patches. Of seven new treefall hazards down on the clear parts of the trail, six were removed by the Trail Report in late May, and a good start was made on clearing the trail of branches and other debris. Dark Canyon Road – the access for the Seven Pines trailhead – remains closed to vehicles.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails no longer exist and are so heavily overgrown I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them. An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct and avoids all of the very challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some local hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with careful route-finding. My autumn 2022 survey counted 97 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure 0.1-0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious near Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Willow Creek Trail is a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles. At least 48 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 38 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. At least another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the section with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also rapidly disappearing under thick whitethorn. The huge amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

The section of Skyline Trail that falls within the State Park jurisdiction above 5800 ft elevation reopened on 19th May following a closure of nearly four months due to supposedly “hazardous” snow conditions. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) Skyline Trail is now functionally clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 1st June (east side) and 5th June (west side). The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting (and of rain on snow in some March storms), there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 20 inches, with many large clear patches developing, but some drifts 5-6 feet deep remain in places (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 24 inches, about 80% snow cover, drifts up to 5 feet deep in places.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 12 inches, ranging from 0-30 inches (70-75 inches on both 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 18 inches, very patchy and heavily drifted here (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 0 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

UPDATE Saturday 3rd June: the short section of South Ridge Trail on the north side of Tahquitz Peak is now functionally clear of snow. The four tiny patches that remain between Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak have excellent tracks across them and no spikes or other traction devices are required (photo below).

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Cooler weather in the last week of May only slowed snowmelt rates slightly, and a return to warm weather forecast for early June will accelerate melting once again. Nevertheless snow conditions in early June will continue to be more reminiscent of early or mid April in a “normal” year of the past decade.

Hiking different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week facilitates assessment of snow conditions on the trail system around the high country including the highest sections of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains (Miles 179-181 and 183-185.5). Our daily hikes in between mainly assess other parts of the PCT, side trails and alternates, including, for example, South Ridge Trail every week. Our hike on Tuesday 30th May included all of Seven Pines Trail and a lengthy section of Fuller Ridge Trail, as well as all of upper Deer Springs Trail.

On multiple hikes in recent days I did not require spikes for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the main east and west side routes, with firmer snow given the cooler weather. However on two recent hikes spikes were especially useful for descending the western side via Deer Springs Trail, down to about 8700 ft. Overall spikes continue to be useful in the high country, and some hikers may prefer trail crampons.

Trails above about 8900 ft remain largely obscured by light to moderate snow (lower in places). Trails as low as 8000 ft elevation can have shallow but increasingly patchy snow cover, especially on north-facing slopes. The reliable boot tracks of April and early May have become increasingly scrappy with the widespread but patchy melting of recent weeks. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note however that snow depth itself is very rarely indicative of the difficulty (or ease) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep is often much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of angled ice.

Spikes remain very useful for the foreseeable future above about 9000 ft (lower in places) but they may no longer be required depending upon the specifics of the route, the hiker’s comfort level hiking on icy snow, plus the quality of footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move slowly upwards with melting of snow over the next few weeks, but spikes will remain useful throughout June at least in parts of the high country. Spikes tend to be especially helpful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming less valuable, but remain potentially useful everywhere above about 9000 ft. Some hikers may find them especially valuable anywhere off-trail in the high country on colder mornings.

Snowshoes can be useful above about 9000 ft for off-trail travel only for the next few weeks when the conditions are warm enough, for example to reach the >10,000 ft peaks that are not connected by well-traveled tracks, on the warmest afternoons.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky stream and river crossings. Lengthy sections of Deer Springs Trail in particular will basically remain ephemeral streams for the next month or two. Appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant is strongly recommended. Be especially cautious of the many fragile and potentially dangerous snow bridges across water (e.g., see photo below).

Hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus some effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change.

Trails are steadily being cleared of treefall hazards by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared South Ridge Trail, and largely cleared Spitler Peak and Seven Pines trails, in the past two weeks. Forest Service volunteers have cut trees from Ernie Maxwell and Devil’s Slide trails since mid May.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near freezing in the high country, and below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my most recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads. The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April. The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May, but Forest Service campgrounds remain closed at this time. Black Mountain Road (4S01) has effectively reopened. The gate 1.7 miles from the highway was vandalized in mid May and the Forest Service have decided to leave it open. The road is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopens for the season on Sunday 4th June. Safe access is now possible from both directions on South Ridge Trail. Black Mountain fire lookout will not reopen until Black Mountain Road (4S01) is graded, which may be later this month.

WEATHER

The last week of May has been pleasantly cool, with temperatures below seasonal and more typical of April, especially at mid elevations. This will continue until 2nd June, after which temperatures will warm markedly. Next weekend (3rd-4th June) will be feel especially warm, but is forecast to be actually only slightly above seasonal for the month, before temperatures drop slightly again the following week. Next week the daytime highs will be near or even somewhat below average, while overnight lows will be at or slightly above seasonal. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Thursday 1st June 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 33.3°F (1°C), 38% relative humidity, and a light ESE wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 8.8 mph.

At the Peak on Tuesday 30th May 2023 at 0840 the air temperature was 38.5°F (4°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.0°F (-2°C), 18% relative humidity, and a fresh due South wind sustained at 7 mph gusting to 13.4 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 26th May 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 35.4°F (2°C), with a windchill temperature of 24.6°F (-4°C), 12% relative humidity, and a steady due West wind sustained at 10 mph gusting to 13.6 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. However three relatively short sections remain extensively snow-covered.

The trail is clear from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable. I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 earlier in May. Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) and other nearby chutes have been clear of snow for several weeks.

Snow cover is about 50% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 177.7 (Chinquapin Flat), but with a well traveled track through the extended snow patches and with very little consequential terrain. Some hikers will find that spikes can be useful on this section. The posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route in places.

Snow cover is increasingly patchy and averages only about 30% between Miles 177.7 to Saddle Junction (about Mile 179). The south-facing slope of Miles 179-180 is clear of snow, but from Mile 180 (elevation 8900 ft) to about Mile 181 just past Annie’s Junction snow cover is 90% and the track can be hard to follow in places. Miles 181-184 are functionally clear of snow, and snow cover then becomes extensive (>90%) from Mile 184.5. Spikes can be useful on the snowy parts of this section, but are not required at this time for hikers experienced with snow travel.

There is a boot track through an average of 30% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). The track does now largely follow the PCT route. Miles 185.5-187.5 average about 40% snow cover, Miles 187.6-188.5 (mainly south-facing slope) is largely clear, Miles 188.5-190 has >80% snow cover, and Miles 190-191 are now largely clear. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the comfort level to hike on icy snow on some angled terrain, and spikes are recommended. Some hikers may still prefer to use trail crampons.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is now clear of snow

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter should be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain largely (or in places completely) snow-covered above about 8900 ft. This elevation will continue to rise steadily with melting into June. Trails below about 8000 ft are now generally clear of snow. Elevations between 8000-8900 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 10-50% snow cover. Details of the PCT, its boot tracks, and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow to Saddle Junction. Spikes are not required.

The Wellman Trail has largely continuous snow cover on its southern 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but snow cover is a very patchy 20% thereafter. The southern portion of the track (with continuous snow cover) does not always accurately follow the trail route, but the remainder of the track is now largely true to the trail route. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places for a few tenths of a mile around Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail route remains largely snow-covered. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide has 35% rapidly thinning snow cover for about a mile to 9900 ft and the track largely follows the trail route, but thereafter snow cover is >90%. Around 9900-10,100 ft the boot track does not follow the trail route. Close to San Jacinto Peak the predominant boot track ascends directly up the East Ridge (not up the switchbacks of the upper Peak Trail) over continuous lumpy snow cover.

There is a well-traveled boot track through 70% snow cover largely following the trail route up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide. Extensive clear patches are opening up in and around Round Valley, though few are actually in the designated camping areas.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The trail is then functionally clear of snow (only a few limited patches) for about 1.5 miles north of Strawberry Junction until just south of the Marion Mountain Trail junction. Thereafter the predominant boot track generally follows the true trail route through largely continuous snow until Fuller Ridge. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, snow cover is about 20% for the first 0.6 mile (to about 9200 ft elevation). Thereafter snow cover averages 60% up to Little Round Valley, but with both extensive clear patches and some lengthy sections of continuous snow. There is now one predominant boot track that almost entirely follows the actual trail route. Snow cover remains >90% and heavily drifted through Little Round Valley. Above Little Round Valley there are multiple boot tracks through the largely continuous icy snow. Most ascend steeply and directly towards San Jacinto Peak, and while one of them does now approximate to the true trail route, it is not the predominant track. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially above Little Round Valley, and spikes are recommended, especially for descending.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky as it is swollen with snowmelt.

South Ridge Trail is completely clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report on 16th May, and trail trimming is undertaken weekly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic, but is clear of snow and is tentatively scheduled to reopen in the first half of June.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow for its lower 1.5 miles to 7500 ft. Snow then starts quite abruptly and from that elevation the softening snow cover averages 30% but with a mix of long clear sections and some lengthy snow patches. There is a great deal of water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, and there are many increasingly fragile snow bridges. The boot track is not always easy to follow in its uppermost section as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes, especially for descending parts of the upper half.

The Trail Report removed about 30 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail on 25th May, bringing the total removed to just under 100 in the past two years. Half-a-dozen minor downed trees remain but none are significant obstructions. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail is functionally clear of snow. A few minor patches remain on the climber’s trail route from the top of Black Mountain Trail to near the fire lookout. Boulder Basin campground remains closed at this time.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow to 8200 ft elevation (about 2.5 miles up from the trailhead). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will likely remain a dangerous crossing into July. Patchy snow cover steadily increases between 8200 ft and the junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT (at about 8700 ft), but overall averages about 40%. Many of the drifts obscure key sections and switchbacks on the upper trail, and navigation will be challenging for those not extremely familiar with this trail. There is a very lightly traveled and poorly defined boot track through the snow patches. Of seven new treefall hazards down on the clear parts of the trail, six were removed by the Trail Report on 30th May, and a good start was made on clearing the trail of branches and other debris.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is clear of snow, but remains closed to vehicles.

The section of Skyline Trail that falls within the State Park jurisdiction above 5800 ft elevation reopened on 19th May following a closure of nearly four months due to supposedly “hazardous” snow conditions. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) Skyline Trail is now functionally clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 1st June (east side) and 29th May (west side) 2023. The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting (and of rain on snow in some March storms), there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 26 inches, with clear patches developing, but drifts up to 4 feet deep remain in places (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 28 inches, with large clear patches but also many drifts up to 5 feet deep.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 12 inches, ranging from 0-30 inches (70-75 inches on both 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 18 inches, very patchy and heavily drifted here (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 0 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

Temperatures well above seasonal on 12th-20th May greatly accelerated melting of snow, with many high country areas losing a further 12-18 inches of snow in the past week or so. Cooler weather for the remainder of the month, especially from 24th-29th, will slow snowmelt rates, and snow should be relatively firm underfoot, at least in the mornings.

An exceptionally early monsoon weather pattern, more reminiscent of late summer than late May, has been another weather feature of the past week. A couple of wonderful monsoonal thunderstorms on Sunday 21st May combined for an impressive 0.72 inch of rain in Idyllwild, with 0.24 inch recorded at Saddle Junction (8100 ft), 0.11 inch at Wellman’s Cienega (9300 ft), and a light sprinkling on the highest peaks.

Hiking different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week facilitates assessment of snow conditions on the trail system around the high country including the highest sections of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains (Miles 179-181 and 183-185.5). Our daily hikes in between mainly assess other parts of the PCT, side trails and alternates, including, for example, South Ridge Trail every week.

On Monday 22nd May (and again on Friday 26th) I didn’t require spikes for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the east side route using Devil’s Slide, Wellman, Peak and East Ridge trails. However spikes were useful for descending the western side via Deer Springs Trail, down to about 8700 ft. Cooler weather this week may harden the compacted snow tracks, improving the traction and hiking conditions. Overall spikes continue to be useful in the high country, and some hikers may prefer trail crampons, although neither are now essential hiking on the established boot tracks.

Trails above about 8900 ft remain largely obscured by light to moderate snow (lower in places). Trails as low as 8000 ft elevation can have shallow but increasingly patchy snow cover, especially on north-facing slopes. The reliable boot tracks of April and early May have become increasingly scrappy with the widespread but patchy melting of recent weeks. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep is often much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of angled ice.

Traction decisions have generally become much easier again following the minor snowstorm in early May. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, quality of footwear tread, and extent to which a track has been traveled and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole in soft afternoon snow (which is rarely easy or fun) also influences choice of traction.

Spikes remain useful for the foreseeable future above about 9000 ft (lower in places) but they may no longer be required depending upon the specifics of the route, the hiker’s comfort level hiking on icy snow, plus the quality of footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move steadily upwards with melting of snow over the next few weeks, but spikes will remain useful throughout June at least in parts of the high country. Spikes tend to be especially helpful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming less valuable, but remain potentially useful everywhere above about 9000 ft. Some hikers will find them useful anywhere off-trail in the high country on colder mornings, and on-trail on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, such as the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and especially on the short section of South Ridge Trail across the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Snowshoes remain useful above about 9000 ft for off-trail travel over the next few weeks, for example to reach the >10,000 ft peaks that are not connected by well-traveled tracks. Snow away from the compacted tracks generally softens rapidly by mid morning once direct sun hits slopes and temperatures rise.

In addition to snow and navigation issues, hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on all trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus some effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change. In addition there can be a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky crossings. Be very cautious of snow bridges across water.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near freezing in the high country, and below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads. The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April. The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May, but Forest Service campgrounds remain closed at this time. Black Mountain Road (4S01) has effectively reopened. The gate 1.7 miles from the highway was vandalized in mid May and the Forest Service have decided to leave it open for now. The road is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended.

WEATHER

Daytime temperatures are forecast to be below seasonal for May from 24th-31st, while overnight lows will be cooler than last week but about seasonal for the month. Air temperatures in the high country will remain just above freezing, but with windchills at or below freezing around the highest peaks. Temperatures will steadily warm to near seasonal in the first week of June. With the monsoonal easterly air flow now breaking down, there is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 22nd May 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 43.9°F (7°C), with a windchill temperature of 36.7°F (3°C), 72% relative humidity, and a light SSW breeze sustained at 2 mph gusting to 6.8 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 19th May 2023 at 0805 the air temperature was 46.3°F (8°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 44.8°F (7°C), 37% relative humidity, and a near-calm SW breeze sustained at 0 mph gusting to 2.7 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 15th May 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.7°F (-1°C), 39% relative humidity, and a fresh ESE wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 18.8 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. However two significant sections remain extensively snow-covered.

The trail is clear from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable. I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 on 1st May. Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) has been clear of snow for several weeks.

Snow cover is about 70% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 177.7 (Chinquapin Flat), but with a well traveled track through the extended snow patches and with very limited consequential terrain. Many hikers will find that spikes can be useful on this section. Note that the posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route in places.

PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail from the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) to Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no reliable steps to follow through a section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are required. Even in low snow years these slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and they are not expected to fully clear until the first week of June this year.

Snow cover is increasingly patchy and averages <50% between Miles 177.7 to Saddle Junction (about Mile 179). The south-facing slope of Miles 179-180 is clear of snow, but from Mile 180 (elevation 8900 ft) to about Mile 181 just past Annie’s Junction snow cover is >95% and the track can be hard to follow in places. Miles 181-184 are functionally clear of snow, and snow cover then becomes largely continuous from Mile 184.5. Spikes can be useful on the snowy parts of this section, but are not required at this time for hikers experienced with snow travel.

There is a boot track through an average of 60% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). My video report from 10th May (available here) remains largely relevant. The track does not accurately follow the PCT route in some places and passes through some challenging terrain, especially in Miles 185.5-187. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with some moderate exposure, and spikes are recommended. Many hikers I have seen and talked to are carrying an ice axe to use with their spikes. Some hikers may still prefer to use trail crampons. Judging by what I see and hear firsthand on the mountain, most hikers are now passing through Fuller Ridge, but a significant percentage continue to prefer using the Black Mountain Road alternate at this time.

There is a potentially dangerous myth circulating on PCT social media that going up and over San Jacinto Peak somehow avoids Fuller Ridge. Whether you remain on the PCT northbound (going around at lower elevation via Strawberry Junction) or leave the PCT at Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) to go up to San Jacinto Peak and then down the west side to reconnect to the PCT at about Mile 185.5, you still have to hike Fuller Ridge (which is Miles 185.5-190.5). It is possible to do the former route more safely by leaving the PCT at Strawberry Junction (approx. Mile 183) and descending Deer Springs Trail, which is completely clear of snow below Strawberry Junction, back into Idyllwild.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is clear of snow for the lower five miles, and then is functionally clear (increasingly patchy 10% snow cover) for the upper three miles to the PCT. Mile 191 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter should be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain largely or completely snow-covered above about 8900 ft. This elevation will continue to rise steadily with melting into June. Trails below about 7700 ft are now clear of snow. Elevations between 7700-8900 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 10-50% snow cover. Details of the PCT, its boot tracks, and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

The section of Skyline Trail that falls within the State Park jurisdiction above 5800 ft elevation reopened on 19th May following a closure of nearly four months due to supposedly “hazardous” snow conditions. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) Skyline Trail is now functionally clear of snow.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow to Saddle Junction. Spikes are not required.

The Wellman Trail has continuous snow cover on its southern 0.4 mile, but snow cover is a very patchy 40% otherwise. The southern portion of the track (with continuous snow cover) does not accurately follow the trail route, but the remainder of the track is now largely true to the trail route. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places in the area of Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail route remains largely snow-covered. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide has about 90% rapidly thinning snow cover for about a mile to 9900 ft and the track largely follows the trail route, but thereafter snow cover is continuous. Multiple meandering boot tracks are becoming increasingly scrappy above 10,000 ft, especially on the main traverse up to near Miller Peak, they only vaguely approximate to the trail route, and the going is consequently slow. Close to San Jacinto Peak the boot track ascends directly up the East Ridge (not the switchbacks of the upper Peak Trail).

There is a well-traveled boot track through largely continuous snow up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide. Extensive clear patches are opening up in and around Round Valley, though few are actually in the designated camping areas.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The trail is then functionally clear of snow (only a few limited patches) for about 1.3 miles north of Strawberry Junction to about 8600 ft just south of the Marion Mountain Trail junction. Thereafter the predominant posthole track largely follows the true trail route through almost continuous snow until Fuller Ridge. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, there is rarely one predominant boot track, and there are often multiple lightly-traveled tracks generally taking direct routes up the various snow slopes and only periodically approximating to the trail route. Snow cover is about 90% up to Little Round Valley, and functionally continuous thereafter. Above Little Round Valley there are multiple poorly-defined boot tracks which ascend steeply and directly towards San Jacinto Peak, none of them approximating to the true trail route. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially above the Fuller Ridge Trail junction, and spikes are recommended, especially for descending.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky as it is swollen with snowmelt.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through a short but steeply angled section of icy snow. These icy slopes are melting fast, but remain treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, remain required. At current melt rates the trail is expected to be passable without additional traction in the first week of June.

South Ridge Trail is completely clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak on the southern approach from South Ridge Road. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report on 16th May, and trail trimming is undertaken weekly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic, but is clear of snow and is tentatively scheduled to reopen in the first half of June.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow for its lower 1.5 miles to 7500 ft. Snow then starts quite abruptly and from that elevation the softening snow cover averages 30% but with a mix of long clear sections and some lengthy snow patches. There is a great deal of water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, and there are many increasingly fragile snow bridges. The boot track is not always easy to follow in its uppermost section as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes, especially for descending parts of the upper half.

The Trail Report removed about 30 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail on 25th May, bringing the total removed to just under 100 in the past two years. Half-a-dozen minor downed trees remain but none are significant obstructions. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail is completely clear of snow for 3.5 miles. The final 0.3 mile in the uppermost switchbacks has about 20% snow cover in patches. There is a lightly-traveled posthole track through those snow patches. From the top of the trail to the fire lookout, snow cover remains about 40%, but is soft and thinning rapidly. Black Mountain Road is functionally clear of snow but remains closed to vehicles at the gate 1.7 miles up from Highway 243.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is clear of snow, but remains closed to vehicles.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 22nd May 2023. The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting (and of rain on snow in some March storms), there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 30-36 inches, with some clear patches on south facing slopes, but drifts 5-6 feet deep remain in places (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 35 inches, with increasingly large clear patches but also many drifts 4-5 feet deep.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 20 inches, ranging from 0-50 inches (70-75 inches on both 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 30-35 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 0-6 inches, largely clear but a few snow drifts 12-15 inches deep (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

UPDATE Sunday 21st May 2023: a spectacular monsoon thunderstorm around noon produced an impressive 0.56 inch of rain in Idyllwild in under one hour. The storm cells appeared to be largely confined to the western side of the mountains, including over Garner Valley, with no recorded, for example, in Long Valley.

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Skyline Trail between the State Park boundary (5800 ft elevation) and Grubbs Notch (Long Valley) reopened on Friday 19th May. The Skyline Trail forms the lower section of the C2C (Cactus-to-Clouds) route.

Considerable warming in recent days has greatly accelerated melting of snow. Above seasonal temperatures are forecast to continue until about 20th, while an exceptionally early monsoon weather pattern this week, about two months earlier than is typical for Southern California, may exacerbate the feeling of a premature summer.

Hiking different routes to San Jacinto Peak 2-3 times per week facilitates assessment of snow conditions on the trail system around the high country including the highest sections of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains (Miles 179-181 and 183-185.5). Our daily hikes in between mainly assess other parts of the PCT, plus side trails and alternates.

Our hike on Monday 8th May was the first of 2023 for which I didn’t use spikes either for ascending or descending San Jacinto Peak, using an Alpine start (plus reliably grippy boots) to ensure I had relatively easy going on cold, firm snow on the east side route using Devil’s Slide, Wellman, Peak and East Ridge trails. In contrast, on Monday 15th, spikes were extremely useful above 9000 ft on Deer Springs Trail on an ascent on hard icy snow, and down to 8500 ft descending Marion Mountain Trail through rapidly softening snow patches. Overall spikes continue to be very valuable in the high country, and some hikers may prefer trail crampons.

On Wednesday 10th May we surveyed Fuller Ridge Trail (PCT Miles 185.5-190.5) again, with a summary video report on YouTube available here. There was a very light dusting of fresh snow (<0.5 inch) above about 8000 ft overnight, but most melted by the afternoon, and it had no significant impact on the trail conditions.

Currently trails above about 8900 ft remain largely obscured by light to moderate snow (much lower in places). Trails as low as 7700 ft elevation can have shallow but very patchy snow cover, mainly on north-facing slopes. The reliable boot tracks of April and early May have become increasingly messy and meandering with patchy melting. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of steeply angled ice.

Traction decisions have generally become easier again following the minor snowstorm in early May. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, and extent to which a track has been traveled and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole in soft afternoon snow (which is rarely easy) also influences choice of traction.

Spikes remain very useful for the foreseeable future above about 9000 ft (lower in places) but they may no longer be essential depending upon the specifics of your route, comfort level hiking on icy snow, plus the quality of tread on footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move steadily upwards with melting of snow over the next few weeks, but spikes are expected to remain useful well into June in the high country. Spikes tend to be especially helpful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are potentially useful everywhere above about 9000 ft, especially anywhere off-trail in the high country on cooler mornings, and on-trail on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, such as the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and the short section of South Ridge Trail across the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Snowshoes remain useful above about 9000 ft for off-trail travel and on the warmest days over the next few weeks. Tracks in the high country soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise rapidly, at which point snowshoes may become valuable. It is clear from the overwhelming majority of high country tracks that hikers are preferring not to use snowshoes at this time.

In addition to snow and navigation issues, hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on all trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus some effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change. In addition there can be a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky crossings. Be very cautious of snow bridges across water.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads. The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April. The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May, but Forest Service campgrounds remain closed at this time.

WEATHER

Temperatures are forecast to be well above seasonal for May until Tuesday 23rd, when there will be a subtle cooling (but only down closer to seasonal temperatures). Overnight low temperatures in particular will be at least 10°F above average for the next week at both mid and upper elevations. Air temperatures around the highest peaks will be more typical of midsummer for those elevations.

While there is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts, there is the likelihood of cloudy conditions, possible minor rainfall and even associated thunderstorms on at least 19th-22nd May (there were a few raindrops and rumbles of thunder on the afternoon of Wednesday 17th in Idyllwild). These are exceptionally early monsoonal conditions, a month before the earliest monsoons recorded in the past decade and two months before the normal start of our monsoon season, as warm, moist air originating over Texas is pulled across Southern California by an unseasonal weather pattern.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 15th May 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.7°F (-1°C), 39% relative humidity, and a fresh ESE wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 18.8 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 11th May 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 44.3°F (7°C), with a windchill temperature of 36.8°F (3°C), 25% relative humidity, and an extremely light WSW breeze sustained at 0 mph gusting to 2.6 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 8th May 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 32.3°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 16.8°F (-8°C), 17% relative humidity, and a steady WSW wind sustained at 18 mph gusting to 23.7 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

All of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains is readily passable with, crucially, suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed. Snowmelt is expected to be rapid for the remainder of May. I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. Some of these challenges may actually increase over the next couple of weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing at the highest elevations and highly variable snowmelt.

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. However two significant sections remain extensively snow-covered. The trail is clear from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 169, and functionally clear (with only a handful of tiny snow patches) to Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable. I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 on 1st May. Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) is now clear of snow. See my latest video for details of Miles 169-179 (available here), where conditions remain fairly similar now despite the changeable weather in the intervening two weeks.

Snow cover is about 60% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 178 (south of Saddle Junction), but with a well traveled track through the extended snow patches and with limited consequential terrain. Most hikers will find that spikes remain useful on this section, and note that the posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route.

Descending the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) is an option for hikers less comfortable on the sections of snow further north or lacking suitable traction. Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly this winter has has brought down about 30 minor trees and half-a-dozen washouts in the uppermost 1.2 miles but nothing overly challenging to pass. It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads – Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road – into Idyllwild (check maps or apps for details).

PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) and Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical. Even in low snow years these slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and they are expected to remain treacherous at least until the end of May this year.

Snow cover is moderate and averages 60% between Miles 179 to about Mile 192, but with extensive clearing on sun-exposed sections (especially Miles 181-184 and around Mile 187.5-188.5). Spikes can be useful everywhere throughout this section, but may not be essential at this time for hikers most experienced with snow travel.

There is a boot track through an average of 70% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191), as described in detail in my video report from 10th May (available here). The track does not accurately follow the PCT route in some places and passes through some challenging terrain, especially in Miles 185.5-187. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with some moderate exposure, and spikes (at a minimum) are recommended. Almost all hikers I have seen and talked to are carrying an ice axe to use with their spikes. Some hikers will prefer to use trail crampons. Judging by what I see and hear firsthand on the mountain, a significant proportion of thru hikers continue to prefer using the Black Mountain Road alternate at this time.

There is a myth circulating on PCT social media that going up and over San Jacinto Peak somehow avoids Fuller Ridge. Please note that this is both incorrect and potentially dangerous. Whether you remain on the PCT northbound (going around at lower elevation via Strawberry Junction) or leave the PCT at Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) to go up to San Jacinto Peak and then down the west side to reconnect to the PCT at about Mile 185.5, you still have to hike Fuller Ridge (which is Miles 185.5-190.5). It is possible to do the former route more safely by leaving the PCT at Strawberry Junction (approx. Mile 183) and descending Deer Springs Trail, which is completely clear of snow below Strawberry Junction, back into Idyllwild.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is clear of snow for the lower five miles, and then has increasingly patchy 20% snow cover for the upper three miles to the PCT but there are excellent tracks to follow through the snow patches. Mile 192 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter should be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has unique challenges, and clearly 2023 is already no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain almost completely snow-covered above about 8900 ft. This elevation will continue to rise steadily with rapid melting during the course of May. Trails below about 7600 ft are now clear of snow. Elevations between 7600-8900 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 30-70% snow cover. Details of PCT tracks and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail [surveyed 19th May] is functionally clear of snow to Saddle Junction. Spikes are not required.

There are tracks to follow around the Tahquitz area meadows. However few if any accurately follow the trail routes at this time, and at least on the initial 0.5 mile of the Caramba Trail and through Little Tahquitz Meadow there are multiple meandering tracks.

The track north from Saddle Junction follows initially follows the PCT route fairly accurately and is now only about 30% snow-covered for the first mile. From 8900 ft elevation, snow cover is functionally continuous.

The now heavily-traveled and well-compacted route thereafter follows the posthole track that I originally established on 31st March following the last major snowfall and continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route approximating to the Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails. Multiple boot tracks on the Wellman Trail, especially in the area of the switchbacks just below Wellman Divide, are potentially confusing and require careful navigation. The Wellman Trail has several extended areas already clearing of snow due to its high sun exposure.

There is a well-traveled boot track through largely continuous snow up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide.

The Peak Trail track above Wellman Divide is very well-defined given the additional foot traffic from the Tram/Long Valley. Almost all boot tracks ascend San Jacinto Peak directly via the East Ridge route rather than the switchbacks of the upper Peak Trail.

Deer Springs Trail [surveyed 15th May] is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The snow cover is increasingly patchy for more than a mile north of Strawberry Junction to about 8600 ft. Thereafter the predominant posthole track through continuous snow badly meanders in places and only vaguely approximates to the true trail route until Fuller Ridge. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, there is rarely one predominant boot track, and there are often multiple lightly-traveled tracks generally taking direct routes up the various snow slopes and rarely approximating to the trail route. Above Little Round Valley there is a multitude of ill-defined posthole tracks all of which ascend steeply and directly up towards San Jacinto Peak. Very cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail above the Fuller Ridge Trail junction, and spikes are strongly recommended.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky as it is swollen with snowmelt.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are required.

South Ridge Trail [surveyed 14th and 16th May] is functionally clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak. Spikes are no longer required. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report on 16th May. South Ridge Road is clear of snow but remains closed to vehicle traffic.

Marion Mountain Trail [surveyed 15th May] is clear of snow for its lower 1.5 miles to 7500 ft. Snow then starts quite abruptly and from that elevation the softening snow cover averages 40% but with a mix of long clear sections and some lengthy snow patches. There is a great deal of water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, and there are many increasingly fragile snow bridges. The boot track is not always easy to follow in its uppermost section as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes, especially for descending the upper half.

Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly most of my work of the past two years, in which more than 60 trees were cut on the upper trail, has been undone by this winter. About another 35 treefall hazards are on the trail, but thankfully almost all are small enough to be relatively easy to remove. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail is completely clear of snow for 3.5 miles. The final 0.3 mile in the uppermost switchbacks has about 20% snow cover in patches. There is a lightly-traveled posthole track through those snow patches. From the top of the trail to the fire lookout, snow cover remains >50%, but is soft and thinning rapidly.

Snow cover on Black Mountain Road is described in detail in the PCT section above.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is completely clear of snow, but remains closed.

Effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft is clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 11th-15th May 2023. The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting and of rain on snow in some March storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 36-40 inches, with some clear patches now on the south face, but drifts up to seven feet deep remain in places (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 40 inches, with a few small clear patches now but also some drifts 6-7 feet deep.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 30 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd March and again on 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 35-40 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches, a few very shallow snow patches remain (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 6 inches, many clear areas and very patchy snow drifts up to 20 inches deep (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

On Wednesday 10th May we surveyed Fuller Ridge Trail (PCT Miles 185.5-190.5) again, publishing a relatively short video report on YouTube (available here). There was a very light dusting of fresh snow (<0.5 inch) above about 8000 ft overnight, but most melted by the afternoon, and it had no significant impact on the trail conditions.

The 26th (and final?) snow storm of this remarkable winter impacted the San Jacinto mountains on Thursday 4th May. Although the new snow depth was limited – with four inches throughout the high country, three inches at Saddle and Strawberry junctions, and barely an inch in Idyllwild – and it then almost completely melted off within a couple of days, the impact was briefly significant, especially for the dozens of PCT hikers in the area at the time.

We hiked different routes to San Jacinto Peak on both 4th and 5th May to assess the snow conditions during the storm and immediately thereafter. This also allowed me to put in reliable boot tracks on both the east and west sides of the mountain, as the snow depth, in combination with strong winds and drifting, largely eliminated the existing tracks above 9000 ft. I recorded a brief video report at the Peak on Thursday 4th May which gives a sense for conditions at that time, available here on YouTube.

I repeated those routes on both 8th and 11th May. Having genuinely needed crampons on the east and west slopes of the Peak on 5th, my hike on Monday 8th was the first of 2023 for which I didn’t use spikes either for ascending or descending San Jacinto Peak, using an Alpine start (and reliably grippy boots) to ensure I had relatively easy going on cold, firm snow. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes in the high country, and some may prefer trail crampons.

On the morning of Monday 1st May we hiked the PCT between Spitler Peak and Saddle Junction (PCT Miles 168.5-179), recording a video report (available here) to document trail and snow conditions on this key section of the Desert Divide. Conditions remain very similar now despite the changeable weather in the intervening week.

Currently trails above about 9000 ft are largely obscured by light to moderate snow (much lower in places). Trails as low as 7500 ft elevation can have shallow but very patchy snow cover, mainly on north-facing slopes. Cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of steeply angled ice.

With the thin new snow from last week having already melted, traction decisions have become easier again, and where icy snow from earlier in the winter remains established tracks are compacted and defined. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, and extent to which a track has been traveled and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole in soft afternoon snow (which is rarely easy) also influences choice of traction.

Spikes are recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 8000 ft (possibly lower in places) but are no longer essential depending upon your comfort level hiking on icy snow, plus the quality of tread on footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move steadily upwards with rapid melting of snow over the next few weeks, but spikes will remain useful throughout May. Spikes tend to be especially useful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are potentially useful everywhere above about 9000 ft, when cold temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They could be especially useful over the next few weeks (depending on temperature) anywhere off-trail in the high country, and on-trail on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks – but critically on the north face – of Tahquitz Peak.

Snowshoes remain useful above about 9000 ft for off-trail travel and on the warmest days over the next few weeks. Tracks in the high country can be firm if the morning is cold (spikes or even crampons best) but then soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise rapidly, at which point snowshoes may become valuable. It is clear from the overwhelming majority of high country tracks that hikers are preferring not to use snowshoes at this time.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near or below freezing in the high country, and often well below freezing when considering wind chill effects, until Friday 12th May after which warming will be rapid (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

In addition to snow and navigation issues, hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on all trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus some effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change. In addition there can be a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky crossings. Be very cautious of snow bridges across water.

The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads.

WEATHER

At mid elevations (e.g., Idyllwild-Pine Cove) temperatures remain pleasantly below seasonal for May until Thursday 11th, when a dramatic warming trend quickly pushes temperatures to well above average. In the high country, temperatures remain seasonal (i.e. near freezing) for a few more days, before rapid warming to temperatures well above seasonal starts around Friday 12th May, lasting for at least a week.

While there is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts, there is the possibility of minor rainfall, possibly associated with thunderstorms, on 16th-19th May. These are not storm systems as such, but localized precipitation, most similar to exceptionally early monsoonal conditions.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 8th May 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 32.3°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 16.8°F (-8°C), 17% relative humidity, and a steady WSW wind sustained at 18 mph gusting to 23.7 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 5th May 2023 at 0945 the air temperature was 21.6°F (-6°C), with a windchill temperature of 7.0°F (-14°C), 93% relative humidity, and a light due West wind sustained at 6 mph gusting to 12.8 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 4th May 2023 at 1015 the air temperature was 20.1°F (-7°C), with a windchill temperature of 3.7°F (-16°C), 100% relative humidity, and a frigid SW wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 16.8 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

All of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains is readily passable with, crucially, suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed. Snowmelt will be slow over the next couple of days, and snow will generally be firm and icy, before accelerating very rapidly after about 12th May. I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These challenges may actually increase over the next couple of weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing and highly variable snowmelt.

The PCT is clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 169, and functionally clear (with only a handful of tiny snow patches) to Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable (I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 on 1st May). Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) is now functionally clear of snow. See my latest video for details of Miles 169-179 (available here).

Snow remains largely continuous from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 179 (Saddle Junction), but with a well traveled track and very little consequential terrain. Spikes are nevertheless recommended, and note that the posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route.

Descending the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) is an option for hikers less comfortable on the sections of angled snow further north or lacking suitable traction. Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly this winter has has brought down about 30 minor trees and half-a-dozen washouts in the uppermost 1.2 miles but nothing particularly challenging to pass. It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads – Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road – into Idyllwild (check maps or apps for details).

PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) and Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical. These slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and will remain treacherous throughout May (possibly into June this year).

Snow cover is moderate and averages 70% between Miles 179 to about Mile 192, but with extensive clearing on sun-exposed sections (especially Miles 181-184 and around Mile 187.5-188.5). Spikes can be useful everywhere.

There is a boot track through an average of 75% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191), as described in detail in my video report from 10th May (available here). The track does not accurately follow the PCT route in some places and passes through some challenging terrain, especially in Miles 185.5-187. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with some moderate exposure, and spikes (at a minimum) are recommended. Almost all hikers I have seen and talked to are carrying an ice axe to use with their spikes. Some hikers will prefer to use trail crampons (with an ice axe), assuming they have knowledge of how to use that equipment. Judging by what I see and hear firsthand on the mountain, up to half of thru hikers continue to prefer using the Black Mountain Road alternate at this time, but the proportion hiking Fuller Ridge has steadily increased over the past month.

There is a dangerous myth circulating on PCT social media that going up and over San Jacinto Peak somehow avoids Fuller Ridge. Please note that this is simply incorrect. Whether you remain on the PCT northbound (going around at lower elevation via Strawberry Junction) or leave the PCT at Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) to go up to San Jacinto Peak and then down the west side to reconnect to the PCT at about Mile 185.5, you still have to hike Fuller Ridge (which is Miles 185.5-190.5). It is possible to do the former route more safely by leaving the PCT at Strawberry Junction (approx. Mile 183) and descending Deer Springs Trail, which is completely clear of snow below Strawberry Junction, back into Idyllwild.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding the challenging terrain of Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is clear of snow for the lower four miles, and then has increasingly patchy 50% snow cover for the upper four miles to the PCT but there are excellent tracks to follow through the snow patches. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by mid morning. Mile 193 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter must be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain almost wholly snow-covered above about 8900 ft. This elevation will continue to change steadily with rapid melting during the course of May. Trails below 7500 ft are now clear (or functionally clear) of snow. Elevations between 7500-8900 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 30-70% snow cover. Details of PCT tracks and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow for two miles to about 7700 ft elevation. Snow cover averages 20% for the remaining 0.5 mile to Saddle Junction, mainly as a few extended patches around the uppermost switchbacks and close to Saddle. Snow can be firm in early mornings but it is often soft otherwise, as early as late morning on warm days (expect moderate postholing by afternoon). Hikers will find that spikes are not generally required for ascending, but they can be useful for descending the upper 0.5 mile of trail.

There are tracks to follow around the Tahquitz area meadows. However none accurately follow the trail routes at this time, and at least on the initial 0.5 mile of the Caramba Trail and through Little Tahquitz Meadow there are multiple meandering tracks.

The track north from Saddle Junction follows initially follows the PCT route fairly accurately and is now only about 60% snow-covered for the first mile. From 8900 ft elevation, snow cover is functionally continuous.

The now heavily-traveled and well-compacted route thereafter follows the posthole track that I originally established on 31st March following the last major snowfall and continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route approximating to the Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails. Multiple boot tracks on the Wellman Trail, especially in the area of the switchbacks just below Wellman Divide, are potentially confusing and require careful navigation. The Wellman Trail has several extended areas already clearing of snow due to its high sun exposure.

There is a well-traveled boot track through largely continuous snow up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide.

The Peak Trail track above Wellman Divide is very well-defined given the additional foot traffic from the Tram/Long Valley. Almost all boot tracks ascend San Jacinto Peak directly via the East Ridge route rather than the switchbacks of the upper Peak Trail.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The snow cover is increasingly patchy for more than a mile north of Strawberry Junction to about 8600 ft. Thereafter the predominant posthole track through continuous snow badly meanders in places and only vaguely approximates to the true trail route until Fuller Ridge. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, it generally takes direct routes up the various snow slopes and again only vaguely approximates to the trail route. In Little Round Valley the primary posthole track ascends steeply and directly up towards San Jacinto Peak (my fault, sorry).

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing the swollen Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky, especially on warm afternoons when snowmelt flows are strongest.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are required.

South Ridge Road is clear of snow but remains closed for vehicles. South Ridge Trail [updated 14th May] is functionally clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak.. Spikes are no longer necessary.

Marion Mountain Trail [updated 10th May] is functionally clear of snow for its lower 1.5 miles to 7500 ft. The snow then starts quite abruptly and from that elevation the snow cover is largely continuous. The boot track is not always easy to follow in its uppermost section as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes, especially for descending.

Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly most of my work of recent years, in which 60+ trees were cut on the upper trail, has been undone by this winter. About another 35 treefall hazards are on the trail, but thankfully almost all are small enough to be relatively easy to remove. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail is completely clear of snow for 3.5 miles. The final 0.3 mile in the uppermost switchbacks has about 40% snow cover in patches which obscure the route in places. There is a lightly-traveled and ill-defined posthole track through those snow patches. From the top of the trail to the fire lookout, snow cover remains almost continuous, but is soft and thinning rapidly.

Snow cover on Black Mountain Road is described in detail in the PCT section above.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is completely clear of snow, but remains closed.

Effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft is clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 8th May 2023 unless indicated. The first number is the current snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting and of rain on snow in some March storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 45-50 inches (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 55 inches

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 35 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd March and again on 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 40 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches, some shallow snow patches remain (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0-2 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 10 inches, very patchy from 0-25 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

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UPDATE Friday 5th May at 1020: I hiked again to San Jacinto Peak this morning. Although I was able to bareboot using our tracks from yesterday to 9100 ft, from there it required crampons to break trail to the Peak. Above 9000 ft, crampons are currently strongly recommended. The fresh snow is too shallow for snowshoes which will slide on the underlying ice, but too deep for spikes which will not bite through the overlying powder. From 7000-9000 ft, spikes can be very useful. An excellent boot track is in place from Devil’s Slide Trail to San Jacinto Peak (using the East Ridge above 10,400 ft). There is a crampon track across the Fuller Ridge section of the PCT, however it does not accurately follow the trail in places, and it would be very challenging to follow in spikes for at least the next couple of days. There is also a track along the entire Deer Springs Trail, already rapidly melting up to Strawberry Junction, but very direct upslope from Little Round Valley (crampons recommended from the PCT to the Peak). The predominant boot track on part of Deer Springs Trail (PCT Miles 184-185.5) badly meanders and only vaguely approximates to the true trail route.

UPDATE Thursday 4th May at 1740: An interesting day (to say the least) on the mountain ended with me rescuing one PCT hiker from the Peak and guiding four others back down from near Wellman Cienega in snow storm conditions. Final snow totals were remarkably even across the high country, with four inches of fresh snow at San Jacinto Peak all the way down to 9000 ft, and three inches at Saddle Junction (8100 ft). About an inch of patchy, slushy snow remained on lower Devil’s Slide Trail this afternoon, with all snow melted from Idyllwild. At this time there are no tracks above 9000 ft elevation – ours from today were quickly eliminated by strong winds and drifting snow – spikes are strongly recommended everywhere above 6500 ft, and crampons are preferred above 9000 ft. Snow depths are not sufficient to require snowshoes.

UPDATE Thursday 4th May at 0940: snowfall from the 26th storm of this winter is proving to be at the upper end of forecasts. We hiked to San Jacinto Peak this morning in a minor blizzard. Snow level is around 5500ft in Idyllwild where an inch has fallen but is melting quickly. Fresh snow depth is about 3 inches at San Jacinto Peak but it continues to fall lightly.

I recorded a brief video report at the Peak available here on YouTube.

=====================

A minor heatwave in the last few days of April accelerated already rapid snowmelt. Idyllwild recorded seven consecutive days with high temperatures exceeding their historical average by at least 5°F (peaking at 14°F above average on Saturday 29th). Some locations on the mountain lost an average of 12 inches of snow per week throughout April, and everywhere lost at least 2-3 feet in the month.

In contrast, a significant cooling is forecast for 1st-7th May, with a week of temperatures well below seasonal averages. Minor precipitation is expected on Thursday 4th at all elevations, including a dusting of snow in the high country at least but potentially much lower, with 1-4 inches expected above 10,000 ft and a freeze level as low as 5500 ft elevation. While the depth of new snow may be insufficient to significantly obscure existing tracks, hikers unfamiliar with navigating in fresh snow should exercise particular caution. More importantly, areas of underlying ice may be obscured and the potential for dangerous hiking conditions is greatly increased with a thin cover of fresh snow on top of old icy snow.

On the morning of Monday 1st May we hiked the PCT between Spitler Peak and Saddle Junction (PCT Miles 168.5-179), recording a video report (available here) to document trail and snow conditions on this key section of the Desert Divide. The video report I recorded on Fuller Ridge on Friday 21st April (available here) remains largely applicable and I expect to report on that section again before the middle of May.

I have conducted survey hikes on the PCT and/or its side trails daily. My five hikes to San Jacinto Peak in the past two weeks – all using very grippy boots and with Alpine starts to take advantage of firm, reliable, early morning snow – have not required spikes for the ascent, but have used spikes to descend safely until snow petered out below 8000 ft elevation.

Currently trails above about 8000 ft are largely obscured by light to moderate snow (lower in places). Trails as low as 7000 ft elevation can have shallow but very patchy snow cover, mainly on north-facing slopes. Cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of steeply angled ice.

Conditions will continue to fluctuate significantly over the next couple of weeks with relatively cold and icy surfaces in the first week of May, expected to be followed by generally warm and sunny weather in the second week of the month, when softening snow in all areas will impact the quality of tracks.

In the past week, traction decisions have generally become easier as established tracks become more compacted and defined. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, and extent to which a track has been traveled and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole (which is rarely easy) also influences choice of traction.

Spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 7500 ft (possibly lower in places depending on comfort level hiking on icy snow). This elevation will continue to slowly move upwards with steady melting of snow over the next few weeks, but is expected to remain relatively low throughout May. Spikes tend to be useful for descending and traversing even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are potentially useful everywhere above about 8000 ft, when cold temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They will be especially useful over the next few weeks (depending on temperature) on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks – but critically on the north face – of Tahquitz Peak.

Snowshoes remain useful above about 9000 ft, mainly for off-trail travel and on the warmest days. Tracks in the high country can be firm if the morning is cold (spikes or even crampons best) but then soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes may become valuable. Snowshoes will remain invaluable for off-trail travel for many weeks above 9000 ft (potentially lower in places). It is clear from the overwhelming majority of high country tracks that hikers are preferring not to use snowshoes.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near or below freezing in the high country, and often well below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

In addition to snow and navigation issues, hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on all trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years, largely due to agency dysfunction, in combination with various effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change. In addition there can be a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky crossings. Be very cautious of snow bridges across water.

The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads.

WEATHER

A significant cooling is forecast for 1st-7th May, with a week of temperatures well below seasonal averages, partly or mostly cloudy days on 2nd-5th, and moderate winds (strongest in the high country) on 1st-4th. Minor precipitation is forecast for Thursday 4th, including very light snow in the high country, and a freeze level possibly as low as 5500 ft elevation. As much as an inch of snow might fall Idyllwild, with 1-4 inches around the highest peaks. Starting on Monday 8th May temperatures are forecast to quickly climb back to average for May.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Sunday 30th April 2023 at 0650 the air temperature was 40.1°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.0°F (-1°C), 37% relative humidity, and a steady SSW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 15.5 mph.

At the Peak on Wednesday 26th April 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 32.4°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 16.9°F (-8°C), 41% relative humidity, and a sharp due North wind sustained at 9 mph gusting to 23.8 mph.

At the Peak on Wednesday 19th April 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 23.0°F (-5°C), with a windchill temperature of -1.5°F (-19°C), 28% relative humidity, and a bitter due West wind sustained at 32 mph gusting to 45.1 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

All of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains is readily passable with, crucially, suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed. Snowmelt will slow over the next few days, and snow will generally be firm and icy, before softening again in the second week of May. I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These challenges may increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally strong insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

The PCT is clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 169, and functionally clear (with only a handful of tiny snow patches) to Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable (I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 on 1st May).

Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) is now functionally clear of snow. See my latest video for details of Miles 169-179 (available here). Snow is virtually continuous from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 179 (Saddle Junction), but with a well traveled track and very little consequential terrain. Spikes are nevertheless recommended, and note that the posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route.

Descending the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) is an excellent option for hikers less comfortable on the sections of angled snow further north or lacking suitable traction. Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly this winter has has brought down about 30 minor trees and half-a-dozen washouts in the uppermost 1.2 miles but nothing particularly challenging to pass. It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads – Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road – into Idyllwild (check maps or apps for details).

PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) and Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical. These slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and will remain treacherous throughout May (probably into June this year).

Snow cover is moderate and largely continuous between Miles 179 to about Mile 192, with large patches clearing on sun-exposed sections (notably Miles 181-184 and around Mile 188). Spikes (at a minimum) are recommended everywhere.

Note that only one sign at Annie’s Junction (approx. Mile 180.8) has recently emerged from the melting snow but remains hard to see, so route-finding at this junction can be challenging. There is a relatively lightly traveled posthole track from Annie’s Junction to Strawberry Junction through increasingly patchy snow.

There is a posthole track through about 90% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191), as described in detail in my video report from 21st April (available here). The track does not accurately follow the PCT route in many places, and passes through some challenging terrain. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with significant exposure, and spikes (at a minimum) are recommended. Almost all hikers I have seen and talked to are carrying an ice axe to use with their spikes. Some hikers will prefer to use crampons (always with an ice axe), assuming they have knowledge of how to use that equipment. Judging by what I am seeing and hearing on the mountain, many hikers continue to prefer using the Black Mountain Road alternate at this time, but the proportion hiking Fuller Ridge has steadily increased in the past couple of weeks.

There is a myth circulating on PCT social media that going up and over San Jacinto Peak somehow avoids Fuller Ridge. Please note that this is both incorrect and potentially dangerously misleading. Whether you remain on the PCT northbound (going around at lower elevation via Strawberry Junction) or leave the PCT at Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) to go up to San Jacinto Peak and then down the west side to reconnect to the PCT at about Mile 185.5, you still have to hike Fuller Ridge (which is Miles 185.5-190.5). It is possible to do the former route more safely by leaving the PCT at Strawberry Junction (approx. Mile 183) and descending Deer Springs Trail, which is completely clear of snow below Strawberry Junction, back into Idyllwild.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding the challenging terrain of Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is clear of snow for the lower four miles, and then has largely continuous light to moderate snow cover for the upper four miles to the PCT but there are excellent tracks to follow through the snow. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by mid morning. Mile 195 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

The remarkable winter has created some challenges in addition to the snow. There can be a great deal of water in the trails, and this has also created a few tricky stream crossings. Be cautious of snow bridges across water. Forested trails are covered with downed branches and debris, plus many new treefall hazards, some of which are only becoming apparent as the snow recedes. Trail maintenance by agencies was already years behind schedule for a variety of reasons, and has deteriorated further this winter. Again, patience and caution will be essential this season more than most.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter must be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 is no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails above about 8000 ft remain largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 8900 ft). This will continue to change steadily with melting during the course of May. Trails below 7500 ft are now almost entirely clear of snow. Details of PCT tracks and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow for two miles to about 7700 ft elevation. Snow cover averages 50% for the remaining 0.5 mile to Saddle Junction, mainly as a few extended patches around the uppermost switchbacks and close to Saddle. Snow can be firm in early mornings but it is often soft otherwise, as early as late morning on warm days (expect moderate postholing by afternoon). Many hikers will find that spikes are not required for ascending, but they can be useful for descending the upper 0.5 mile of trail.

There are tracks to follow around the Tahquitz area meadows. However none accurately follow the trail routes at this time, and at least on the initial 0.5 mile of the Caramba Trail and through Little Tahquitz Meadow there are multiple meandering tracks.

The track north from Saddle Junction follows initially follows the PCT route fairly accurately and is now only about 60% snow-covered for the first mile. From 8900 ft elevation, snow cover is continuous.

The now heavily-traveled and well-compacted route thereafter follows the posthole track that I originally established on 31st March following the last snowfall and continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route approximating to the Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, at times climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss and switchbacking. Beware of an increasing variety of alternate tracks that is developing, although most seem to ultimately reach the same endpoints. For example several other tracks head up from around 10,000 ft elevation directly upslope towards the summit junction, before turning north to the Peak.

Multiple trails lead from Round Valley up to the high country. There is a well-traveled posthole track through continuous snow up to Wellman Divide. At least two posthole-and-snowshoe tracks run more directly, one up Jean Peak, and another up to near Miller Peak where it connects to the established trail up East Ridge to the Peak; these will become harder to follow soon as the snow melts.

Deer Springs Trail is functionally clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The snow cover is increasingly patchy for one mile north of Strawberry Junction to about 8600 ft. Thereafter the posthole track through largely continuous snow only partially follows the actual trail route. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, it generally takes direct routes up the various snow slopes (see for example this photo in a prior Report) and again only vaguely approximates to the trail route. In Little Round Valley the track splits into several parallel tracks through the valley that then ascend steeply and directly up towards San Jacinto Peak.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is functionally clear of snow. Crossing the swollen Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky, especially on warm afternoons when snowmelt flows are strongest.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are required.

South Ridge Road is clear of snow. South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Old Lookout Flat (7600 ft). Snow cover averages 40% on the traverse to 7900 ft and on the lower switchbacks up to about 8400 ft. Some snow patches and drifts remain fairly deep. Snow cover remains largely continuous and treacherous on the upper switchbacks to Tahquitz Peak, starting at about the seventh switchback up. In places the posthole track becomes relatively indistinct near the Peak where it crosses steep angled icy snow. Spikes at a minimum are required.

Marion Mountain Trail remains largely snow-covered and has only a relatively lightly-traveled track to follow, which only roughly approximates to the trail route in places. The lower 0.5 mile is largely clear of snow, but the remainder of the trail averages 90% snow cover. The track is not always easy to follow, especially when it breaks into multiple routes as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail.

Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly most of my hard work of recent years, in which 60+ trees were cut on the upper trail, has been undone by this winter. About another 35 treefall hazards are on the trail, but thankfully almost all are small enough to be relatively easy to remove. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail [surveyed 28th April] is completely clear of snow for 3.5 miles. The final 0.3 mile in the uppermost switchbacks has about 60% snow cover in patches which obscure the route in places. There is a very lightly-traveled and ill-defined posthole track through those snow patches. From the top of the trail to the fire lookout, snow cover is almost continuous, but is soft and thinning rapidly.

Snow cover on Black Mountain Road is described in detail in the PCT section above.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is completely clear of snow, but remains closed.

Effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft is clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 30th April 2023 unless indicated. The first number is the current snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting and of rain on snow in some March storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 50-55 inches (100-105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 60 inches

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 40 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd March and again on 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 45-50 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 4 inches, ranging from 0-10 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0-4 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 12 inches, ranging from 0-30 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

A dramatic spring snowmelt is well underway. Everywhere on the mountain above 6000 ft has lost at least two feet of snow this month, with some mid elevation areas and sun-exposed slopes losing three feet (or even more) since the last significant snowfall at the end of March. With further warming in the forecasts – including a minor heatwave in the last few days of April – snowmelt will continue rapidly. It is unusual for the San Jacinto mountains to have no significant storm in April, and frankly it is disappointing to see so much snow disappear so quickly.

That said, plenty of snow remains in most areas above about 8000 ft. For example, on Friday 21st I undertook a comprehensive survey of the still very snowy Fuller Ridge section of the PCT, recording a detailed video report available here on YouTube. The PCT across Fuller Ridge is now passable with spikes, but only for hikers who are comfortable hiking on continuous icy snow across some moderate angle terrain with significant exposure in places, as discussed in more detail below.

I have conducted survey hikes daily, invariably on parts of the PCT and/or its side trails. On three recent cool early mornings (17th, 19th, and 26th) I was able to comfortably ascend San Jacinto Peak without spikes in very grippy boots via the east side track – approximating to Devil’s Slide, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails – before then using spikes to descend safely until the snow petered out around 7800 ft.

Currently trails above about 8000 ft are largely obscured by moderate snow (lower in places). Trails as low as 7000 ft elevation have shallow but increasingly patchy snow cover. Cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of steeply angled ice.

Conditions will continue to change significantly over the next couple of weeks with generally warm and sunny weather, while softening snow in all areas will impact the quality of tracks.

In the past week, traction decisions have generally become easier as established tracks become more compacted and defined. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, and extent to which a track has been traveled and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole (which is rarely easy) also influences choice of traction.

Spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 7500 ft (potentially lower in places). This elevation may slowly move upwards with steady melting of snow over the next few days and weeks, but will remain relatively low into May. Spikes tend to be especially useful for descending and traversing.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are potentially useful everywhere above about 8000 ft, when cold temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They may become especially useful over the next few weeks (depending on temperature) on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks – but critically on the north face – of Tahquitz Peak.

Snowshoes can be helpful everywhere above about 8000 ft (potentially lower in places on the warmest days for the remainder of April). Tracks in the high country can be firm if the morning is cold (crampons or even spikes best) but then soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes may become preferable. Even after trails become compacted through freeze/thaw cycles and hiker traffic, snowshoes will remain invaluable for off-trail travel for many weeks above 8000 ft. It is clear from the overwhelming majority of high country tracks that hikers are preferring not to use or carry snowshoes.

In addition to snow and navigation issues, hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on all trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of this is a consequence of the recent remarkable winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for many years, largely due to agency dysfunction, in combination with wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change.

Especially with a cooling trend starting 1st May, hikers should be prepared for temperatures near or below freezing in the high country, and often well below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads.

WEATHER

A minor heatwave is currently forecast for the remainder of April, with summer-like temperatures on 27th-30th. Even at the highest elevations air temperatures will be well above freezing, while at mid elevations (e.g., Idyllwild) temperatures will be far above seasonal. Snowmelt will continue to be rapid at all elevations especially in sun-exposed areas. A significant cooling is forecast for 1st-5th May, with the possibility of minor precipitation on Thursday 4th, including potential for a very light dusting of snow in the high country.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Wednesday 26th April 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 32.4°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 16.9°F (-8°C), 41% relative humidity, and a sharp due North wind sustained at 9 mph gusting to 23.8 mph.

At the Peak on Wednesday 19th April 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 23.0°F (-5°C), with a windchill temperature of -1.5°F (-19°C), 28% relative humidity, and a bitter due West wind sustained at 32 mph gusting to 45.1 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 17th April 2023 at 0810 the air temperature was 33.9°F (1°C), with a windchill temperature of 20.8°F (-6°C), 27% relative humidity, and a fresh due West wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 18.8 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

Rapid and widespread snowmelt is underway and will continue to accelerate over the next few days. All areas of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains are readily passable with, crucially, suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed. I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These challenges will steadily increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally stronger insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

The PCT is clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 167 (south side of Spitler Peak). Fobes Ranch Road and Fobes Trail (alternate at Mile 166) are clear of snow. There is a reliable and well-traveled track on the PCT north to about Mile 169. There is a track continuing beyond Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) all the way through to Mile 177. Spikes are strongly recommended as the posthole track is challenging with multiple crossings of angled snow slopes, and the track does not accurately follow the PCT route in places. The most heavily traveled track at Mile 169-169.5 goes over the saddle at Apache Peak rather than following the PCT route around to the east.

Descending the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) is an excellent option for hikers less comfortable on lengthy sections of angled snow or lacking suitable traction. Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly this winter has has brought down about 30 minor trees and half-a-dozen washouts in the uppermost 1.2 miles but nothing particularly challenging to pass. It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads – Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road – into Idyllwild (check maps or apps for details).

Snow is more-or-less continuous and deep between Miles 174.5-179 and the track around Red Tahquitz and west to Mile 177 does not accurately follow the PCT route.

PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (approx. Mile 177.7) and Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of notoriously treacherous and steeply angled ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical.

Snow cover is moderate and nearly continuous between Miles 179 to about Mile 193, with a few small bare patches starting to appear on the most sun exposed slopes. Spikes (at a minimum) are required everywhere.

Note that all signs and posts at Annie’s Junction (approx. Mile 180.8) are buried in deep snow, and route-finding here can be challenging. There is a relatively lightly traveled posthole track from Annie’s Junction to Strawberry Junction through increasingly patchy snow.

There is now also a posthole track through the almost continuous deep snow on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191), as described in detail in my video report from 21st April (available here). The track does not accurately follow the PCT route in many places, and passes through some challenging terrain. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with significant exposure, and spikes (at a minimum) are recommended. Many hikers may prefer to use crampons and ice axe (assuming they have knowledge of how to use that equipment). Judging by what I am seeing on all the trails, most hikers continue to prefer using the Black Mountain Road alternate.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding the challenging terrain of Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is clear of snow for the lower four miles, and then has largely continuous light to moderate snow cover for the upper four miles to the PCT but there are excellent tracks to follow through the snow. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by mid morning. Mile 195 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

The remarkable winter has created some challenges in addition to the snow. There can be a great deal of water in the trails, and this has also created a few tricky stream crossings. Be cautious of snow bridges across water. Forested trails are covered with downed branches and debris, plus many new treefall hazards, some of which are only becoming apparent as the snow recedes. Trail maintenance by agencies was already years behind schedule for a variety of reasons, and has deteriorated further this winter. Again, patience and caution will be essential this season more than most.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter must be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails above about 8000 ft remain largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 8800 ft). This will change steadily with extensive melting over the next few days and weeks. Trails below 6500 ft are now almost entirely clear of snow. Details of PCT tracks and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail is functionally clear of snow for its first mile, and then almost clear of snow another mile up to about 7700 ft elevation. Snow cover is about 60% for the remaining 0.5 mile to Saddle Junction. Snow can be firm in early mornings but it is often soft otherwise, as early as late morning on warm days (expect moderate postholing). The track through the remaining snow patches now largely follows the established trail route in the uppermost switchbacks close to Saddle Junction, but careful navigation is still required. Many hikers will find that spikes are not required for ascending, but they are useful for descending, especially the upper 0.5 mile of trail.

The posthole track that I originally established on 31st March following the last snowfall continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route approximating to the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, at times climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss and switchbacking. This track has now been well-traveled and compacted. Other tracks head up from around 10,000 ft elevation directly upslope towards the summit junction, before turning north to the Peak.

Multiple trails lead from Round Valley up to the high country. There is now a reasonable posthole track through largely continuous snow up to Wellman Divide. At least two posthole-and-snowshoe tracks run more directly, one up Jean Peak, and another up to near Miller Peak where it connects to the established trail up East Ridge to the Peak.

Deer Springs Trail is functionally clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The snow cover is increasingly patchy for one mile north of Strawberry Junction to about 8600 ft. Thereafter is a relatively lightly traveled posthole track north through continuous snow, that rarely follows the actual trail route, and can be tough to follow, especially for those who know the true trail well. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, it generally takes direct routes up the various snow slopes (e.g., photo in previous Report) and again only vaguely approximates to the trail route. In Little Round Valley the track splits into at least two roughly parallel tracks through the valley that then ascend steeply and directly up towards San Jacinto Peak.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is almost entirely clear of snow, but a couple of patches remain on the upper trail closest to Humber Park. Most hikers will find that spikes are not required. Crossing the swollen Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park is tricky for many hikers.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical.

South Ridge Road is clear of snow. South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Old Lookout Flat (7600 ft). Snow cover averages 50% on the traverse to 7900 ft and on the lower switchbacks up to about 8400 ft, but some of the snow patches/drifts remain surprisingly deep. Snow cover is then almost continuous and treacherous on the upper switchbacks to Tahquitz Peak, starting at about switchback seven. In places the posthole track becomes indistinct and hard to follow near the Peak where it crosses steep angled icy snow. Spikes at a minimum are required, crampons/ice axe are preferable.

Marion Mountain Trail [surveyed 21st April] remains largely snow-covered and has only a lightly-traveled track to follow, which only roughly approximates to the trail route in places. The lower 0.5 mile has about 60% snow cover, but the remainder of the trail has 100% snow cover. The track is not always easy to follow, especially when it breaks into multiple routes as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Below 7500 ft elevation, the snow is soft even in the early morning, and gets soft at all elevations later in the day.

Spitler Peak Trail [surveyed weekly] is clear of snow. Sadly most of my hard work of recent years, in which 60+ trees were cut on the upper trail, has been undone by this winter. About another 35 treefall hazards are on the trail, but thankfully almost all are small enough to be relatively easy to remove. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail [surveyed 28th April] is completely clear of snow for 3.5 miles. The final 0.3 mile in the uppermost switchbacks has about 60% snow cover in patches which obscure the route in places. There is a very lightly-traveled and ill-defined posthole track through those snow patches. From the top of the trail to the fire lookout, snow cover is almost continuous, but is soft and thinning rapidly.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is now completely clear of snow, but remains closed [surveyed 25th April].

Effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft is clear of snow.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 is no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 26th April 2023 (east side locations) and 19th-21st April (west side). The first number is the current snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. In all cases these are the greatest snow depths recorded at these locations for at least 11-12 years. Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying all storms, and the differential effects of melting and of rain on snow in some earlier storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 55-65 inches (100-105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 70 inches (heavily drifted and slow to melt here, see photo in previous Report)

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 45-48 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd March and again on 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 50-60 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 18 inches, but ranging from 0-30 inches (c.60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0-10 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 20-36 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0-2 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

UPDATE Friday 21st April 2023: I have uploaded a video report of a comprehensive survey of the Fuller Ridge section of the PCT from this morning, available here on YouTube.

UPDATE Monday 17th April 2023: I have updated some trail details below based on my ascent of San Jacinto Peak early this morning. The PCT across Fuller Ridge is now passable with spikes, but only for those who are comfortable hiking on angled terrain with significant exposure. Other trail information below is being updated daily (on 18th-21st April). The next comprehensive Report update is expected on 23rd April.

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With the exception of somewhat cooler days on 12th-14th April, the San Jacinto mountains have settled into a relatively steady and mild weather pattern, with temperatures on most days at or even above seasonal at all elevations. Snowmelt is consequently proceeding rapidly, especially below 8000 ft and on sun-exposed slopes. Everywhere has lost at least 6-12 inches of snow in the past week, and up to two feet since the last snow storm at the end of March.

The divergent impact of the warm, wet storms in mid March is now especially striking. The storms melted much of the snow below about 7500 ft, so lower parts of well known trails such as Devil’s Slide and Deer Springs are nearly clear already (details below), while the same storms added snow at higher elevations, which consequently remain embedded in many feet of snow.

I have conducted survey hikes in the high country on six of the past 15 days, and elsewhere on the PCT or its alternates on every day in between. Most recently, on the morning of Friday 14th, I ascended San Jacinto Peak via the east side track (Devil’s Slide, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails) that I broke on 31st March, and descended (approximately) via Deer Springs Trail. This facilitated survey of the highest parts of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains (approx. Miles 179-181 and 185.5-183) plus several of its side trails.

On 14th I made use of the coolest day in the past week, plus an Alpine start, to ascend and descend entirely in spikes. I carried crampons and ice axe as a backup, but they went unused; however many hikers may have found them preferable to spikes. In softer snow on a very warm Monday 10th I was able to bareboot to 9200 ft near Wellman’s Cienega, before switching to spikes for the remainder of the ascent and keeping them on for almost the entire descent.

Currently trails above about 7500 ft are largely obscured by moderate snow, deeper above 8000 ft. Trails as low as 6000 ft elevation can have shallow and very patchy snow cover. Cautious navigation is critical everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than just a couple of inches depth of steeply angled ice.

Conditions will continue to change significantly over the next couple of weeks with generally warm and sunny weather, while softening snow in all areas will impact the quality of tracks.

To give an idea of the current traction challenge, I have been generally hiking with all three of snowshoes, crampons, and spikes, changing between them as conditions warrant. This challenge will evolve over the next week with warm temperatures on many days. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, and extent to which a track has been established and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole (itself somewhat correlated to fitness) also influences choice of traction.

As snow conditions continue to change spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 7000 ft (potentially lower in places). This elevation will slowly move upwards with steady melting over the next few days and weeks, but may remain relatively low into May.

Snowshoes can be helpful everywhere above about 8000 ft (potentially lower in places on the warmest days for the next week or so). Tracks in the high country can be firm if the morning is cold (crampons or even spikes best) but then soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes may become preferable. Even after trails become compacted through freeze/thaw cycles and hiker traffic, snowshoes will remain invaluable for off-trail travel for many weeks above 8000 ft. It is clear from the overwhelming majority of high country tracks (seen on 14th April) that hikers are preferring not to use or carry snowshoes.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are potentially useful everywhere above about 8000 ft, when cold temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They may become especially useful over the next few weeks (depending on temperature) on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks – but critically on the north face – of Tahquitz Peak.

Despite unseasonal warm weather over the next week or more, hikers should nevertheless be prepared for temperatures near freezing in the high country, and below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Tuesday 18th April.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus their various side roads.

WEATHER

Generally warm, sunny, stable weather is currently forecast for the remainder of April. With the exception of a brief cooling on 18th-19th April, temperatures may be at or above seasonal for the foreseeable future. Even at the highest elevations air temperatures are forecast to be at or above freezing almost daily. Snowmelt will continue to be rapid below 9000 ft and will proceed steadily at all elevations especially on sun-exposed slopes.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Friday 14th April 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 29.7°F (-1°C), with a windchill temperature of 13.8°F (-10°C), 18% relative humidity, and a sharp WNW wind sustained at 14 mph gusting to 23.4 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 10th April 2023 at 0815 the air temperature was 40.7°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.2°F (-1°C), 37% relative humidity, and a steady SSE wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 17.0 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 6th April 2023 at 0755 the air temperature was 27.2°F (-3°C), with a windchill temperature of 18.0°F (-8°C), 37% relative humidity, and a light NNW wind sustained at 3 mph gusting to 6.5 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

Rapid and widespread snowmelt is underway and will accelerate over the next few days. Most or even all areas of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains will soon become readily passable with, crucially, suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed.

The PCT is functionally clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 167 (south side of Spitler Peak). Fobes Ranch Road and Fobes Trail (alternate at Mile 166) are clear of snow. There is a reliable and well-traveled track on the PCT north to about Mile 169. There is now a track continuing beyond Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) all the way through to Mile 177. Spikes are very strongly recommended as the posthole track is challenging with multiple crossings of angled snow slopes, and the track does not accurately follow the PCT route in places. The track at Mile 169-169.5 goes over the saddle at Apache Peak rather than following the PCT route around to the east.

Descending via the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) [surveyed 7th April] is an excellent option for hikers less comfortable on lengthy sections of angled snow or lacking suitable traction. Spitler Peak Trail is functionally clear of snow, although a few minor patches remain that do not require spikes. Sadly this winter has has brought down about 30 minor trees and half-a-dozen washouts in the uppermost 1.2 miles but nothing particularly challenging to pass.

It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads – Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road – into Idyllwild (check maps or apps for details).

Snow is continuous and deep between Miles 174.5-179 and the track around Red Tahquitz and west to Mile 177 does not accurately follow the PCT route. Snow cover is moderate or deep and basically continuous between Miles 179 to about Mile 193, with a few small bare patches starting to appear on the most sun exposed slopes. Spikes (at a minimum) are required everywhere.

There is now [updated 17th April] a relatively well-traveled posthole track from Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) west to Strawberry Junction (Mile 183) which largely follows the PCT route through variable depth snow. All signs at Annie’s Junction are buried in deep snow, and route-finding here is challenging. There is a lightly traveled posthole track north from Strawberry Junction to the southern end of Fuller Ridge (where new signs placed in February 2021 remained just above the deep snow).

There is now also a posthole track through the snow on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). However it does not accurately follow the PCT route, and passes through some challenging terrain. The current trail conditions on Fuller Ridge are described in detail in the video report from 21st April available here on YouTube.

At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires at least spikes, plus the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with significant exposure. Many hikers will prefer to use crampons and ice axe (and have knowledge of how to use that equipment), plus have excellent snow hiking skills.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding the challenging terrain of Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road [updated 21st April] is clear of snow for the lower four miles, and then has continuous light to moderate snow cover for the upper four miles to the PCT but there are excellent tracks to follow through the snow. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by late morning. Mile 195 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

The remarkable winter has created some challenges in addition to the snow. There can be a great deal of water in the trails, and this has also created a few tricky crossings. Be cautious of snow bridges across water. Forested trails are covered with downed branches and debris, plus many new treefall hazards, some of which are only becoming apparent as the snow recedes. Trail maintenance by agencies was already years behind schedule due to the coronavirus pandemic, among other reasons, and this winter has greatly exacerbated the situation. Again, patience and caution will be essential this season more than most.

Recently I have mentioned the challenges of hard, icy snow underfoot and the value of using spikes (and/or crampons) especially for descending and traversing. While softening, melting, snow (and fresh powder if we have more storms!) may be suitable for snowshoeing for the next several weeks, snow at all elevations will generally become increasingly firm and icy following multiple freeze-thaw cycles, and compaction by increasing hiker traffic. I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These concerns will steadily increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally stronger insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak, including in the historic shelter (currently iced-in anyway). The shelter must be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails above about 7000 ft remain largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 8000 ft). This will change steadily with extensive melting over the next few days and weeks. Details of PCT tracks and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail [updated 17th April] is functionally clear of snow for its first 0.5 mile (to near switchback 3). Snow cover is then about 40% and very patchy for another 1.1 miles up to about 7500 ft elevation. Snow cover is largelt continuous thereafter to Saddle Junction. Snow can be firm in early mornings (perfect for spikes all the way to Saddle) but it can be soft otherwise, as early as late morning on warm days (expect periodic deep and wet postholing). The track that I put in after the last storm at the end of March is steep and (intentionally) does not follow the established trail route in the uppermost switchbacks close to Saddle Junction, so careful navigation is required. Many hikers will find that spikes are not required for ascending, but they are useful for descending the upper third of the trail.

My snowshoe-and-posthole track from multiple ascents/descents continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route roughly approximating to the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss and switchbacking. This track has now been moderately well-traveled and compacted. Other tracks head up from around 10,000 ft elevation directly upslope towards the summit junction, before turning north to the Peak.

Multiple trails lead from Round Valley up to the high country. There is now a reasonable posthole track through continuous snow up to Wellman Divide. Two posthole-and-snowshoe tracks run more directly, one up Jean Peak, and another up to near Miller Peak where it connects to the established trail up East Ridge to the Peak.

Deer Springs Trail is functionally clear of snow to the Suicide Rock Trail junction (spikes not required). From there to Strawberry Junction snow cover averages only 30%, with few major patches until you near the PCT. This is so sun exposed that patches are soft by mid morning at the latest. The track up to Strawberry Junction is obvious but surprisingly lightly traveled, and much less firm and compacted than, for example, the track up Devil’s Slide.

On Deer Springs Trail above Strawberry Junction the snow cover is continuous. There is a very lightly traveled and uneven posthole track north from Strawberry Junction, that rarely follows the actual trail route, and can be tough to follow, especially for those who know the true trail well. Once the track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, it generally takes direct routes up the various snow slopes (e.g., photo below), and again only vaguely approximates to the trail route. In Little Round Valley the track splits in two roughly parallel tracks through the valley and both ascend very directly up towards San Jacinto Peak.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail [updated 18th April] is almost entirely clear of icy snow, but a couple of extended patches remain on the upper trail closest to Humber Park. Most hikers will find that spikes are not required.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are essential. Snowshoes are not advisable due to the angle of the icy snow.

Marion Mountain Trail [surveyed 21st April] remains largely snow-covered and has a very lightly-traveled track to follow, which only roughly approximates to the trail route in places. The lower 0.5 mile has about 60% snow cover, but the remainder of the trail has 100% snow cover. The track is not always easy to follow, especially when it breaks into multiple routes as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Below 7500 ft elevation, the snow is soft even in the early morning, and gets soft at all elevations later in the day.

South Ridge Road is functionally clear of snow. South Ridge Trail [surveyed 20th April] has 30% snow cover up to Old Lookout Flat (7600 ft), but many of the snow patches remain surprisingly deep. Snow cover is then largely continuous from the Flat up to Tahquitz Peak. There is a posthole track to follow, which crosses steep angled icy snow in the upper switchbacks. Spikes at a minimum are required, crampons can be useful.

Spitler Peak Trail [surveyed weekly] is functionally clear of snow all the way to the PCT. A few minor snow patches remain on the most sheltered slopes but none of them require spikes to pass. Sadly most of my hard work of recent years, in which I cut 60+ trees on the upper trail, has been undone by this winter. About another 35 treefall hazards are on the trail, but thankfully almost all are small enough to be relatively easy to remove. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos below).

Effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft is clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on Friday 14th April 2023 unless otherwise stated. The first number is the current snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. In all cases these are the greatest snow depths recorded at these locations for at least 11-12 years. Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying all storms, and the differential effects of rain on snow in some earlier storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 78-82 inches (100-105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 80-90 inches (heavily drifted and slow to melt here, see photo below)

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 50-55 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd March and again on 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 65 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 36 inches, but some bare patches already appearing (c.60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 12 inches (but cleared patches developing, photo below)

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 35 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0-3 inches, melting rapidly (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 is no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

On Friday 7th April I surveyed Spitler Peak Trail and the PCT north to Apache Peak (Mile 169.5). There is now a posthole track north from Mile 169.5 – which goes over the saddle at Apache rather than around the east – to Saddle Junction (Mile 179). For hikers with limited snow hiking experience the alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) remains an excellent option. Sadly Spitler Peak Trail has deteriorated again this winter (details below).

Our last significant storm on 29th-30th March, the 24th of this remarkable winter, was described in the prior Report (linked here). We just caught the edge of a very minor system on 3rd April, which produced about 0.5 inch of snow in the high country, not enough to significantly impact the few tracks in place. I recorded a rather lengthy video from San Jacinto Peak on the morning of 6th April that discusses many of the key points herein (available here on YouTube).

The State Park wilderness reopened on Friday 7th April having been closed since 1st March. Frankly the less said about that closure the better. Skyline Trail (part of the C2C route) above 5800 ft remains closed, apparently indefinitely, and does not sound likely to reopen before late May. Currently there is no evidence of avalanche risk in the high country.

I conducted survey hikes in the high country on 31st March and 2nd, 5th, and 6th April, generally from Devil’s Slide Trail to San Jacinto Peak, via a short section of the PCT, Wellman’s, Peak, and East Ridge trails, descending the same way. On 31st I broke trail the entire route through fresh powder averaging 7-10 inches deep, following a storm the previous day. With little change in the weather that track has held up really well, and became a fast and firm route on cold mornings (photo below).

On 31st March conditions averaged better for snowshoes for the entire hike. Although I switched to crampons above about 10,000 ft, they proved to be of limited additional value. By the time I descended Devil’s Slide Trail, a relatively well-traveled compacted track was already forming. In contrast, on 2nd, 5th, and 6th April, I was able to ascend and descend the entire route just in spikes with no postholing (I carried snowshoes on 2nd and crampons on all three days, but they were unused). This was in part because of the relatively compacted track that I broken previously, and also because I had Alpine starts, returning to Humber Park by late morning, before the sun had become too potent on the exposed slopes.

Currently trails above about 7000 ft are obscured by moderate to deep snow. Trails as low as 5000 ft elevation can have shallow and very patchy snow cover. With the State Park closure in place for a week since the last snow storm, there are few tracks in place anywhere above 8000 ft. Very cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted snowshoe or crampon track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than just a couple of inches depth of steeply angled ice.

Conditions will change dramatically over the next couple of weeks, with a major warming trend bringing rapid and widespread melting (see Weather below), and greatly softening snow in all areas, impacting the quality of tracks.

To give an idea of the current traction challenge, I am generally hiking with all three of snowshoes, crampons, and spikes, changing between them as conditions warrant. This challenge will evolve over the next week with warm temperatures on many days. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, and extent to which a track has been established and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole (itself somewhat correlated to fitness) also influences choice of traction.

Snowshoes are expected to become increasingly helpful everywhere above about 8000 ft (potentially lower in places on the warmest days for the next week or so). Tracks in the high country can be firm if the morning is cold (crampons or even spikes best) but then soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes may become preferable. Even after trails become compacted through freeze/thaw cycles and hiker traffic, snowshoes will remain invaluable for off-trail travel for many weeks above 8000 ft.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are potentially useful everywhere above about 8000 ft, when cold temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They may become invaluable over the next few weeks (depending on temperature) on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks but critically on the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Increasingly as snow conditions change spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 7000 ft. This elevation will slowly move upwards with steady melting over the next few days and weeks, but may remain relatively low into May.

Despite unseasonably warm weather over the next week, hikers should nevertheless be prepared for temperatures near freezing in the high country, and below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

The USFS gate at Humber Park remains closed. Even when the gate is closed there are nine legal parking spaces below the locked gate (which still require an Adventure Pass or equivalent to be displayed). If there are “Road Closed” signs across Fern Valley Road near its junction with Forest Drive – which has generally not been the case for the past week – then those nine spaces are also unavailable for legal parking.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus their various side roads.

WEATHER

Warm, sunny, stable weather is generally forecast for at least the first half of April. With the exception of a brief cooling on 13th-14th April, temperatures will be at or above seasonal for the foreseeable future. Even at the highest elevations air temperatures will be above freezing almost daily from 8th April onwards. Snowmelt will be remarkably rapid below 9000 ft and will proceed steadily even higher especially on sun-exposed slopes.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Thursday 6th April 2023 at 0755 the air temperature was 27.2°F (-3°C), with a windchill temperature of 18.0°F (-8°C), 39% relative humidity, and a very light NNW wind sustained at 3 mph gusting to 6.5 mph.

At the Peak on Wednesday 5th April 2023 at 0815 the air temperature was 20.1°F (-7°C), with a windchill temperature of 2.3°F (-17°C), 13% relative humidity, and a fresh NW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 19.7 mph.

At the Peak on Sunday 2nd April 2023 at 0810 the air temperature was 31.3°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 14.2°F (-10°C), 39% relative humidity, and a bitter due West wind sustained at 22 mph gusting to 33.2 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 31st March 2023 at 1040 the air temperature was 23.4°F (-5°C), with a windchill temperature of 10.8°F (-12°C), 26% relative humidity, and a steady due West wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 10.2 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

Between the lengthy Park closure and storms continuing throughout March, completing the San Jacinto mountains section has been a major challenge even for experienced hikers this season. That said, rapid and widespread melting is underway and will accelerate over the next few days. Most or even all areas will soon become readily passable in April with – crucially – suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed.

The PCT from Mile 151 (Highway 74 crossing) to Mile 168.5 (Spitler Peak Trail alternate) is rapidly clearing of snow [checked at least weekly]. Fobes Ranch Road and Fobes Trail (another earlier alternate at Mile 166) are clear of snow.

There is a reliable well-traveled track on the PCT north to about Mile 169. There is now a track continuing beyond Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) all the way through to Mile 177. Spikes are essential as the posthole track is challenging with multiple crossings of angled snow slopes, and the track does not accurately follow the PCT route in places. Descending via the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) is an excellent option for hikers less comfortable on lengthy sections of angled snow or lacking suitable traction. Spitler Peak Trail is functionally clear of snow, although a few minor patches remain that do not require spikes. Sadly this winter has has brought down about 30 minor trees and half-a-dozen washouts in the uppermost 1.2 miles but nothing particularly challenging to pass.

It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads – Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road – into Idyllwild (check maps or apps for details).

By Monday 10th April, there was a single posthole track from Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) west to Strawberry Junction (Mile 183).

As of Friday 7th April, there were no tracks through the snow on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). However this is expected to change in the next few days.

At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires crampons and ice axe (and knowledge of how to use that equipment), plus excellent snow hiking skills. Snowshoes may become increasingly valuable as the deep snow softens considerably over the next week.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road currently has continuous light to moderate snow cover but there are tracks to follow through the snow, and melting of the lower section will proceed steadily over the next week or so. Ignore signage that indicates the road is closed to hiker traffic, this is erroneous and has been reported to Forest Service. Snow on the road is rapidly melting, and expect 50% snow cover on the lower two miles, 90% cover for the next three miles averaging 2-6 inches deep, then 100% cover for the upper three miles, at 6-18 inches deep. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by late morning. At last check, no vehicle had driven up from Highway 243 since the last snows.

The remarkable winter has created some challenges in addition to the snow. There can be a great deal of water in the trails, and this has also created a few tricky crossings. Be cautious of snow bridges across water. Forested trails are covered with downed branches and debris, plus many new treefall hazards, some of which are only becoming apparent as the snow recedes. Trail maintenance by agencies was already years behind schedule due to the coronavirus pandemic, among other reasons, and this winter has greatly exacerbated the situation. Again, patience and caution will be essential this season more than most.

Recently I have mentioned the challenges of hard, icy snow underfoot and the value of using spikes (and/or crampons) especially for descending and traversing. While softening, melting, snow (and fresh powder if we have more storms) may be ideal for snowshoeing for the next several weeks, snow at all elevations will generally become increasingly firm and icy following multiple freeze-thaw cycles, and compaction by increasing hiker traffic (especially once all high country trails reopen). I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These concerns will steadily increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally stronger insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak, including in the historic shelter (currently snowed in anyway). Mt. San Jacinto State Park regulations permit overnight stays only in established campgrounds. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are good options for thru-hikers.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 is no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails above about 6000 ft remain largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 7000 ft). This will change steadily with extensive melting over the next few days and weeks. Details of PCT tracks and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail has a reliable, compacted snowshoe and posthole track to follow up to Saddle Junction. It can be firm in early mornings (perfect for spikes all the way to Saddle) but it can be soft otherwise, as early as late morning (snowshoes required, or expect periodic deep and wet postholing). Beware of some tricky stream crossings. The track that I put in after the last storm is steep and (intentionally) does not follow the established trail route in the uppermost switchbacks close to Saddle Junction, so careful navigation is required.

My snowshoe-and-posthole track from multiple ascents/descents continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route roughly approximating to the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss and switchbacking. This track has now been moderately well-traveled and compacted, and with no significant fresh snow expected it should remain reliable for some time.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail [surveyed 4th April 2023] still has 90% icy snow cover on the lower two-thirds of the route, becoming continuous on the upper trail nearer Humber Park. There is a well-marked but uneven posthole track to follow through the snow, which can be firm and icy on cold mornings, but becomes soft and slippery later in the day. Melting will be very fast on this trail over the next week or two.

There is a track south from Saddle Junction (PCT Mile 179) towards Chinquapin Flat (PCT Mile 177.5), but it does not accurately follow the established trail route, and snowshoes are recommended.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are essential. Snowshoes are not advisable due to the angle of the icy snow.

Spitler Peak Trail [surveyed weekly] is functionally clear of snow all the way to the PCT. A few minor snow patches remain on the most sheltered slopes, totaling only 2-3% of the trail, but none of them require spikes to pass. Sadly most of my hard work of past two years, when I cut 60+ trees on the upper trail, has been undone by this winter. About another 35 treefall hazards are on the trail, but thankfully almost all are small enough to be relatively easy to remove. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work.

Effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft is clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on Thursday 6th April 2023 unless otherwise stated. The first number is the current snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23. In all cases these are the greatest snow depths recorded at these locations for at least 11-12 years. Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying all storms, and the differential effects of rain on snow in some earlier storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 90-95 inches (100-105 inches on 31st March)

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 62-65 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 70 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 45 inches (c.60 inches on 3rd March)

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 36-38 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 1-8 inches, melting rapidly (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0-3 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches, largely melted by 31st March, measured on 1st April (13 inches in first week of March)

On Sunday 2nd April 2023 as I descended from San Jacinto Peak I twice crossed paths with friends, Idyllwild neighbors, and great supporters of the Trail Report. As it was my 750th ascent – apparently setting the record for most ascents all time of a 10,000 ft/3000 m peak in Southern California – we took photos in celebration (below). The record was previously held by the late Seuk Doo “Sam” Kim, who had summited Mt. San Antonio in the San Gabriel mountains just over 740 times.

UPDATE Thursday 6th April 2023: the State Park wilderness reopens tomorrow, Friday 7th April, according to a media release from the Park. Skyline Trail remains closed indefinitely, as discussed below.

UPDATE Wednesday 5th April 2023: I have updated the PCT section (and other sections) below based on significant new information from my hike this morning in the high country.

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This is an outline of current snow and trail conditions, following the 24th storm of this remarkable winter on 29th-30th March. It was a storm of two distinct days, with steady rain at mid elevations on 29th (totaling 0.7 inch at 5550 ft in Idyllwild), with light, intermittent snow in the high country that day. Much colder precipitation overnight and throughout much of 30th produced 6 inches of snow in Idyllwild, and a snow level down to 4000 ft elevation. I measured 2 inches at PCT Mile 151 (4800 ft) in Garner Valley early that morning, as described in a short video report (available here on YouTube).

It was periodically clear in the high country above about 8000 ft elevation while it was still snowing at mid elevations on 30th, and consequently there was relatively little difference in the snow totals between Idyllwild (6 inches at 5550 ft) and San Jacinto Peak (10 inches at 10,800 ft), with locations in between generally at 7-8 inches.

The State Park wilderness closed on 1st March (see State Park website and associated social media for their explanation of the situation). An additional closure applies to Skyline Trail (part of the C2C route) as discussed below under Trail Conditions. The latter does not sound likely to reopen before June.

Currently there is no avalanche risk on the high country slopes that are crossed by the established trail network, based on my multiple surveys since the recent snowfalls. There remains only a minor avalanche risk for the Snow Creek drainage on the north face of San Jacinto Peak now that the latest snowfall has consolidated. The biggest avalanche of the season so far occurred at around 7000-7500 ft in the Snow Creek drainage on 22nd-23rd March, immediately after the previous week’s heavy snowfall, and a substantial debris field is readily visible even from San Jacinto Peak in the 5000-7000 ft elevation range (see photo in previous Report).

I conducted survey hikes on 31st March and 2nd and 5th April. All went from Devil’s Slide Trail to San Jacinto Peak, via a short section of the PCT, Wellman’s, Peak, and East Ridge trails, descending the same way. On 31st I broke trail the entire route through fresh powder averaging 7-10 inches deep.

To give an idea of the current traction challenge, I am generally hiking with all three of snowshoes, crampons, and spikes, changing between them as conditions warrant. On 31st, conditions averaged better for snowshoes for the entire hike. Although I switched to crampons above about 10,000 ft, they proved to be of limited additional value. By the time I descended Devil’s Slide Trail, a relatively well-traveled compacted track was already forming.

In contrast, on 2nd and 5th April, I was able to ascend and descend the entire route just in spikes with no significant postholing (I carried snowshoes and crampons but they were unused). This was in part because of the relatively compacted track that I broken previously, and also because I had Alpine starts, returning to Humber Park by late morning, before the sun had become too potent on the exposed slopes.

Currently trails above about 6000 ft are obscured by moderate to deep snow. Trails down to 5000 ft elevation currently have shallow and very patchy snow cover. With the State Park closure in place, there are few tracks anywhere above 8000 ft. Very cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Conditions will change dramatically over the next couple of weeks, with a major warming trend bringing rapid and widespread melting (see Weather below).

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted snowshoe or crampon track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than an angled icy section just inches deep.

Conditions are currently excellent for snowshoes everywhere above about 7000 ft (lower in places for the next week or so). Tracks in the high country can be firm if the early morning is cold (crampons or even spikes best) but then soften very rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes are preferable. Even after trails become compacted through freeze/thaw cycles and hiker traffic, snowshoes will remain invaluable for off-trail travel for many weeks especially above 8000 ft.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming increasingly useful everywhere above about 7000 ft, as cold temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They will likely become invaluable over the next few weeks on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks but critically on the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Increasingly as snow conditions change spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 5500 ft. They can currently be valuable even for walking around Idyllwild early on cold mornings! This elevation will slowly move upwards with steady melting over the next few days and weeks, but may remain relatively low into May.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures below freezing in the high country, and often well below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

The USFS gate at Humber Park is closed. Even when the gate is closed there are nine legal parking spaces below the locked gate (which still require an Adventure Pass or equivalent to be displayed). If there are “Road Closed” signs across Fern Valley Road near its junction with Forest Drive then those nine spaces are also unavailable for legal parking.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus their various side roads.

WEATHER

The great melting begins! Warm, sunny, stable weather is generally forecast for at least the first half of April. With the exception of a brief cooling on 3rd-4th April, mid elevation temperatures warm to seasonal and then starting next weekend move well above seasonal at least for 8th-12th April. Even at the highest elevations air temperatures will be far above seasonal for early April in the second week of the month. Sadly snowmelt will be remarkably rapid below 8000 ft and also on sun-exposed slopes at high elevations.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Sunday 2nd April 2023 at 0810 the air temperature was 31.3°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 14.2°F (-10°C), 39% relative humidity, and a bitter due West wind sustained at 22 mph gusting to 33.2 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 31st March 2023 at 1040 the air temperature was 23.4°F (-5°C), with a windchill temperature of 10.8°F (-12°C), 26% relative humidity, and a steady due West wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 10.2 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 27th March 2023 at 1045 the air temperature was 25.3°F (-4°C), with a windchill temperature of 12.6°F (-11°C), 19% relative humidity, and a light WNW wind sustained at 7 mph gusting to 11.3 mph.

INFORMATION FOR PACIFIC CREST TRAIL HIKERS

Between the State Park closure and the storms throughout March, completing the San Jacinto mountains has been a major challenge even for experienced hikers this season. That said, melting will happen fast once it starts in earnest. Conditions in the southernmost sections will generally improve rapidly starting in the first week of April (judging by the forecasts), and most or even all areas will become readily passable with – crucially – suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed.

Recently I have mentioned the challenges of hard, icy snow underfoot and the value of using spikes (and/or crampons) especially for descending and traversing. While softening, melting, snow (and fresh powder if we have more storms) may be ideal for snowshoeing for the next several weeks, snow at all elevations will generally become increasingly firm and icy following multiple freeze-thaw cycles, and compaction by increasing hiker traffic (especially once high country trails reopen). I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These concerns will steadily increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally stronger insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

The remarkable winter has created some challenges in addition to the snow. There can be a great deal of water in the trails, and this has also created a few tricky crossings. Be cautious of snow bridges across water. Forested trails are covered with downed branches and debris, plus many new treefall hazards, some of which are only becoming apparent as the snow recedes. Trail maintenance by agencies was already years behind schedule due to the coronavirus pandemic, among other reasons, and this winter has greatly exacerbated the situation. Again, patience and caution will be essential this season more than most.

The PCT from Mile 151 (Highway 74 crossing) to Mile 166 (Fobes Trail alternate) is clearing of snow steadily [checked multiple times each week]. Fobes Ranch Road and Fobes Trail are clear of snow.

There are tracks continuing from Mile 166 to about Mile 169, but at this time there is no track continuing beyond Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) through to Mile 177. I recommend descending via the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5). There is a track to follow through about 6-10 inches of snow on its uppermost section, and it is then functionally clear of snow for its lower 3.5 miles. It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads (Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road) into Idyllwild.

Proceeding north from about Mile 169 currently requires considerable snow hiking experience. At this time I recommend carrying snowshoes, crampons, and ice axe, plus you will need the necessary snow hiking experience to use that equipment safely in moderate angle terrain, along with patience, stamina, and route-finding skills.

As of Wednesday 5th April, there were no tracks through the snow on the PCT route coming north from Mile 175 (Red Tahquitz) through to Saddle Junction (Mile 179) and along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191).

A track was put in from Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) west to Strawberry Junction (Mile 183) on 5th April 2023, allowing easier access to descend Deer Springs Trail back to Idyllwild. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires crampons and ice axe (and knowledge of how to use that equipment), plus excellent snow hiking skills.

A well established alternate is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road currently has continuous moderate snow cover but there are tracks to follow through the snow, and melting of the lower section will proceed steadily over the next week or so. Ignore any signage that indicates the road is closed to hiker traffic, this is erroneous and has been reported to Forest Service. Soon the conditions will be similar to my survey on 17th March, when the Road had 50% snow cover on the lower two miles, 90% cover for the next three miles averaging 2-6 inches deep, then 100% cover for the upper three miles, at 6-18 inches deep. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by late morning. At last check, no vehicle had driven up from Highway 243 since the last snows.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak, including in the historic shelter (even after the Park wilderness reopens). Mt. San Jacinto State Park regulations permit overnight stays only in established campgrounds (when open). Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are good options for thru-hikers.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails above about 6000 ft remain largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 7000 ft). This will change steadily with further melting over the next few days and weeks.

Devil’s Slide Trail has a reliable, compacted snowshoe and posthole track to follow up to Saddle Junction. It can be firm in early mornings (perfect for spikes all the way to Saddle) but it can be soft otherwise, as early as late morning (snowshoes required, or expect periodic deep and wet postholing). Beware of some tricky stream crossings. The track that I put in after the last storm is steep and (intentionally) does not follow the established trail route in the uppermost switchbacks close to Saddle Junction, so careful navigation is required.

My snowshoe-and-posthole track from multiple ascents/descents continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route roughly approximating to the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss. This track has now been moderately well-traveled and compacted, and with no significant fresh snow expected it should remain reliable for some time.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail [surveyed 4th April 2023] still has 90% icy snow cover on the lower two-thirds of the route, becoming continuous on the upper trail nearer Humber Park. There is a well-marked but uneven posthole track to follow through the snow, which can be firm and icy on cold mornings, but becomes soft and slippery later in the day. Melting will be very fast on this trail over the next week or two.

There is a track south from Saddle Junction (PCT Mile 179) towards Chinquapin Flat (PCT Mile 177.5), but it does not accurately follow the established trail route, and snowshoes are recommended.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are essential. Snowshoes are not advisable due to the angle of the icy snow.

Spitler Peak Trail [surveyed weekly] is clear of snow in its lower half (first 2.4 miles). The upper half of the trail has continuous light snow cover. The initial part of this snowy section has the rapidly melting remains of an excellent snowshoe track to follow (firm in the morning, spikes ideal) but this ends about 3.8 miles from the highway, about one mile below the PCT junction. There is a posthole track the remainder of the way to the PCT.

In addition to the wider closure mentioned above, effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft received some light snow cover down to about 4500 ft over the past week, but this has already melted.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on Friday 31st March unless otherwise stated. The first number is the current snow depth, followed in brackets by the new snowfall in the storm of 29th-30th March, and then where relevant in parentheses by the maximum depth at that location in winter 2022/23. Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying all storms, and the differential effects of rain on snow in some earlier storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 100-105 inches [10 inches], greatest depth of this winter, and since at least 2011 at this location

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 70-72 inches [8 inches] (70-75 inches on 3rd March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 75 inches [8 inches] (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 50 inches [c.7 inches] (c.60 inches on 3rd March)

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 40-45 inches [8 inches] (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 15-20 inches, already melting rapidly on 1st April [7 inches] (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0-6 inches, melting rapidly by 31st March [6 inches] (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 2 inches, measured 30th March, largely melted by 31st (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 will be no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

On Sunday 2nd April 2023 as I descended from San Jacinto Peak I twice crossed paths with friends and neighbors who are great supporters of the Trail Report. As it was my 750th ascent, setting the record for most ascents all time of a 10,000 ft peak in Southern California, we took photos in celebration. The record was previously held by the late Seuk Doo “Sam” Kim, who had summited Mt. San Antonio in the San Gabriel mountains just over 740 times.

UPDATE Thursday 30th March 2023 at 1130: the 24th storm of this remarkable winter produced nearly three inches of snow in Idyllwild overnight, following a day of steady rain almost all day yesterday (totaling 0.7 inch at 5550 ft). Light snow in the high country yesterday and overnight totaled about 5 inches in Long Valley (8600 ft). Overnight it snowed down to 4000 ft, and I measured 2 inches at PCT Mile 151 early this morning, as described in a short video report I recorded there (available here on YouTube). It has periodically cleared in the high country above about 8000 ft elevation this morning, and also in Garner Valley, but it continues to snow steadily at mid elevations (e.g., in Idyllwild), with another 1-2 inches added since 0700.

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This is an outline of current snow and trail conditions, details of the situation after the last major storm were summarized in the previous Report (available here). The next storm, forecast to be relatively minor, is on its way on Wednesday 29th and Thursday 30th March. With a freeze level at around 4000-4500 ft elevation, a few inches of snow are expected at the mid elevations, including almost all of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains. About 6-8 inches of snow are currently forecast for the high country.

The State Park wilderness closed on 1st March (see State Park website). At this time there is no tentative date for reopening. This closure includes PCT Miles 183-189. An additional closure applies to Skyline Trail (part of the C2C route) as discussed below under Trail Conditions.

Currently there is no avalanche risk on the high country slopes that are crossed by the established trail network, based on my multiple surveys since the latest snowfall. There remains a moderate avalanche risk for the Snow Creek drainage on the north face of San Jacinto Peak, most likely immediately following the next snowfall. The biggest avalanche of the season so far occurred at around 7000-7500 ft in the Snow Creek drainage on 22nd-23rd March, immediately after last week’s heavy snowfall, and a substantial debris field is readily visible even from San Jacinto Peak in the 5000-7000 ft elevation range (photo below).

My survey hike on Monday 27th – in my capacity as a volunteer wilderness ranger for the State Park – initially took me up Devil’s Slide Trail to Wellman’s Cienega. A firm compacted track on the former was ideal for spikes, but I switched to snowshoes just above Saddle Junction, and kept them on for the remainder of the hike, including the entire descent of Devil’s Slide in early afternoon. From the cienega, I went directly upslope, gaining the ridge on the south flank of Jean Peak. I followed the high country ridge up over Jean to San Jacinto Peak, before breaking trail on a more conventional descending route via (roughly) the East Ridge, Peak and Wellman trails back to the PCT. Despite its great depth, the high country snow was firm and I was sinking in only a few inches at most. I was surprised to find much of my snowshoe track from Wednesday 22nd remained just visible.

Currently trails above about 6500 ft are obscured by moderate to deep snow. Trails down to 5000 ft elevation currently have shallow and increasingly patchy snow cover. With the State Park closure in place, there are very few tracks anywhere above 8000 ft. Very cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted snowshoe or crampon track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than an angled icy section just inches deep.

Conditions are currently excellent for snowshoes everywhere above about 8000 ft (potentially lower in places for the next week or so). Tracks in the high country can be firm if the early morning is cold (crampons or even spikes best) but then soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes are preferable.

To give an idea of the current traction challenge, I am generally hiking with all three of snowshoes, crampons, and spikes every time I go into the high country at present, changing between them as conditions warrant.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming increasingly useful everywhere especially above about 7000 ft, as cold temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They will likely become invaluable over the next week or so on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks but critically on the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Increasingly as snow conditions change spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 5500 ft. They can currently be valuable even for walking around Idyllwild early on cold mornings! This elevation will slowly move upwards with steady melting over the next few days and weeks, but will remain relatively low well into April.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures below freezing in the high country, and well below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

The USFS gate at Humber Park is closed. Even when the gate is closed there are nine legal parking spaces below the locked gate (which still require an Adventure Pass or equivalent to be displayed). If there are “Road Closed” signs across Fern Valley Road near its junction with Forest Drive – currently the case – then those nine spaces are also unavailable for legal parking.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus their various side roads.

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway will be closed for maintenance on Monday 27th and Tuesday 28th March.

WEATHER

Conditions continue unsettled for the remainder of March. Two brief warm spells, on Tuesday 28th, and then again on 1st-2nd April, bookend the next minor storm system on 29th-30th. A mix of rain and 4-6 inches of snow are forecast for mid elevations (e.g., Idyllwild) with about 6-8 inches of snow for the high country. The system will be relatively cold, with snow expected to dust as low as 4000 ft, particularly on the night of Wednesday 29th. Winds – and therefore windchill temperatures – will be severe on the nights of 28th and 29th.

While somewhat more stable, sunnier weather with temperatures slightly warmer than the first three months of the year may start around 1st April, cold, cloudy, windy days nevertheless remain forecast for 3rd and 8th April at least, especially in the high country.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 27th March 2023 at 1045 the air temperature was 25.3°F (-4°C), with a windchill temperature of 12.6°F (-11°C), 19% relative humidity, and a light WNW wind sustained at 7 mph gusting to 11.3 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 20th March 2023 at 1435 the air temperature was 20.8°F (-6°C), with a windchill temperature of 0.5°F (-18°C), 44% relative humidity, and a stiff due West wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 28.0 mph, in complex, multi-layer cloud.

SOME THOUGHTS FOR PCT HIKERS

Between the State Park closure and the storms continuing in March, completing the San Jacinto mountains is currently a major challenge even for experienced hikers. That said, melting will happen fast once it starts in earnest – it is still Southern California after all – and because prior melting was accelerated by some storms bringing intense warm rain on top of the snow, especially below about 8000 ft which includes most of the PCT in these mountains.

Conditions in the southernmost sections will generally improve starting in the first week of April (judging by the forecasts), and most or even all areas will become readily passable with – crucially – suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed.

Recently I have mentioned the challenges of hard, icy snow underfoot and the value of using spikes (and/or crampons) especially for descending and traversing. While fresh snow (and softening, melting, snow) may be optimum for snowshoeing for the next several weeks, snow at all elevations will generally become increasingly firm and icy following multiple freeze-thaw cycles, and compaction by increasing hiker traffic in places (especially once high country trails reopen). I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These concerns will steadily increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally stronger insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

The remarkable winter has created some challenges in addition to the snow. There can be a great deal of water in the trails, and this has also created a few tricky crossings. Be cautious of snow bridges across water. Forested trails are covered with downed branches and debris, plus many new treefall hazards, some of which are only becoming apparent as the snow recedes. Trail maintenance by agencies was already years behind schedule due to the coronavirus pandemic, among other reasons, and this winter has greatly exacerbated the situation. Again, patience and caution will be essential this season more than most.

The PCT from Mile 151 (Highway 74 crossing) to Mile 166 (Fobes Trail) is clearing of snow steadily [checked 23rd and 24th March 2023], see photo in previous Report. Fobes Ranch Road and Fobes Trail [checked 24th] are also either clear or clearing of snow (more continuous snow a few inches deep remains on upper Fobes Trail).

Proceeding north from about Mile 166 currently requires considerable snow hiking experience. At this time I recommend carrying snowshoes, crampons, and ice axe, plus you will need the necessary snow hiking experience to use that equipment safely in moderate angle terrain, plus patience, stamina, and route-finding skills.

A well established alternate is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road currently has continuous moderate snow cover but there are tracks to follow through the snow, and melting of the lower section will proceed steadily over the next week or so. Soon the conditions will be silimar to my survey on 17th March, when the Road had 50% snow cover on the lower two miles, 90% cover for the next three miles averaging 2-6 inches deep, then 100% cover for the upper three miles, at 6-18 inches deep. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by late morning. At last check, no vehicle had driven up from Highway 243 since the last snows.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails above about 5000 ft remain largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 6000 ft). This will change steadily with further melting over the next few days and weeks.

Devil’s Slide Trail has a good snowshoe track to follow up to Saddle Junction. It is firm in cold early mornings (ideal for spikes all the way to Saddle) but it can be very soft otherwise, as early as late morning (snowshoes required, or expect deep and wet postholing). Beware of water flowing in the trail, often obscured under thinning snow, and some associated tricky stream crossings. The track does not follow the established trail route in the uppermost switchbacks close to Saddle Junction, and careful navigation is required.

My snowshoe track from multiple ascents/descents continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route roughly approximating to the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss. Fresh snow expected on 29th-30th March will likely eliminate parts of the track.

As of Monday 27th, there were no tracks on the PCT south of Saddle Junction (Mile 179) towards Chinquapin Flat (Mile 177.5). There were snowshoe tracks around the Skunk Cabbage Meadow triangle.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are essential. Snowshoes are not advisable due to the angle of the icy snow.

A reliable snowshoe track was put in on lower Deer Springs Trail to Strawberry Junction on Friday 24th March. There is no evidence of any tracks from Little Round Valley up to the San Jacinto Peak area at this time.

Spitler Peak Trail [surveyed 26th March] is clear of snow in its lower half (first 2.4 miles). The upper half of the trail has continuous light snow cover. The initial part of this snowy section has an excellent snowshoe track to follow, but this ends about 3.8 miles from the highway, about one mile below the PCT junction.

In addition to the wider closure mentioned above, effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft received some light snow cover down to about 4500 ft over the past week, but this has already melted.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on Monday 27th March unless otherwise stated. The first number is the current snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth at that location in winter 2022/23. Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying all storms, and the differential effects of rain on snow in some earlier storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 95 inches (98-105 inches on 22nd March)

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 65 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 70 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 45 inches (c.60 inches on 3rd March)

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 38 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 10-15 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 3-6 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inch, measured 23rd March (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 will be no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

Well, I’m starting to run out of superlatives for this winter, so I’ll just let numbers tell the tale. The 23rd storm of winter 2022/23 impacted the San Jacinto mountains on 21st-23rd March. Another two feet of snow at San Jacinto Peak brought the total depth currently on the ground there to about 100 inches. Given some melting between storms, the Peak total for the winter is now close to 120 inches, i.e. 10 feet. While that depth would have been unremarkable late last century, it is by far the most snow in the San Jacinto high country for over a decade, probably this century. I recorded a short video discussion near San Jacinto Peak on the morning of Wednesday 22nd March, which gives a feel for the conditions (available here on YouTube).

Meanwhile in Idyllwild, another 17 inches of snow took the winter total to nearly 90 inches, almost triple the annual average of the past 30 years, and as I discussed in an earlier analysis (linked here), makes this winter provisionally the snowiest in Idyllwild since the 1940s, and the third snowiest in recorded Idyllwild history (reliable data since 1943).

Unlike the two storms in mid March, this was not another “pineapple express”, but had a more northerly influence producing colder temperatures, thankfully no rain at higher elevations, and a light dusting of snow down to 4400 ft in Garner Valley (see photos below). Mid elevation locations such as Vista Grande and Keenwild reported 2-3 inches of rain before it turned to several inches of snow accumulation.

The State Park wilderness nominally closed on 1st March (see State Park website for their explanation). At this time there is no tentative date for reopening. Note however that there was no apparent enforcement in Long Valley on Saturday 25th at least, with multiple skiers reaching San Jacinto Peak and Snow Creek. This closure includes approximately PCT Miles 183-189. An additional closure applies to Skyline Trail (part of the C2C route) as discussed below under Trail Conditions.

Currently there appears to be no significant avalanche risk on the high country slopes that are crossed by the established trail network. I found no evidence of pre-avalanche characteristics as I descended the high slopes on the late morning of 22nd March following the latest heavy snowfall. There is however a moderate risk for the north face of San Jacinto Peak, especially given that pre-avalanche characteristics were reliably reported to me from upper Snow Creek on 20th, prior to the latest heavy snowfall.

I snowshoed San Jacinto Peak on Wednesday 22nd March via the eastern side route including Devil’s Slide Trail. Despite its great depth, the high country snow was firm and immaculate and I was sinking in only a few inches at most. Below about 8500 ft was a different story however, with relatively wet, heavy, snow on Devil’s Slide Trail causing some unpleasant postholing even in snowshoes (photos below).

Currently trails above about 6000 ft (lower in places) are obscured by moderate to deep snow. Trails down to 4600 ft elevation currently have shallow and increasingly patchy snow cover. With the State Park closure in place, there are very few tracks anywhere above 8000 ft. Very cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted snowshoe or crampon track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than an angled icy section just inches deep.

To give an idea of the current traction challenge, I am generally hiking with all three of snowshoes, crampons, and spikes every time I go into the high country at present, changing between them as conditions warrant.

Conditions are currently excellent for snowshoes everywhere above about 6000 ft (potentially a little lower in places for the next couple of days). This elevation will climb slowly over the next few days and weeks as temperatures rise and melting accelerates. Tracks in the high country can be firm if the early morning is cold (crampons best) but then soften very rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes are preferable.

Crampons – with hiking poles and an ice axe, depending on terrain – may becoming increasingly useful everywhere especially above about 8000 ft, as colder temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They will likely become invaluable over the next week or so on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks but critically on the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Increasingly as snow conditions change spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 5000 ft. They can currently be valuable even for walking around Idyllwild early on cold mornings! This elevation will slowly move upwards with steady melting over the next few days and weeks, but will remain relatively low into April at least.

Recently I have mentioned the challenges of hard, icy snow underfoot and the value of using spikes (and/or crampons) especially for descending and traversing. While fresh snow (and softening, melting, snow) may be optimum for snowshoeing for the next several weeks, snow at all elevations will generally become increasingly firm and icy following multiple freeze-thaw cycles, and compaction by increasing hiker traffic in places (especially once high country trails reopen). I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These concerns will steadily increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally stronger insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures below freezing in the high country, and well below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

The USFS gate at Humber Park is closed. Even when the gate is closed there are nine legal parking spaces below the locked gate (which still require an Adventure Pass or equivalent to be displayed). If there are “Road Closed” signs across Fern Valley Road near its junction with Forest Drive – currently the case – then those nine spaces are also unavailable for legal parking.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus their various side roads.

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway will be closed for maintenance on Monday 27th and Tuesday 28th March.

SOME THOUGHTS FOR PCT HIKERS

Between the State Park closure and the storms continuing in March, completing the San Jacinto mountains is currently a major challenge even for experienced hikers. That said, melting will happen fast – it is still Southern California after all – and because melting was accelerated by some recent storms bringing intense warm rain on top of the snow, especially below about 8000 ft which includes most of the PCT in these mountains.

Hikers with March dates, if you have any flexibility at all in your timing, try to start later (easy for me to say I know). In a year with such dramatic snow conditions further north, it is highly unlikely that starting later than your “official” date will be a problem anywhere. Hikers with April or May dates, conditions in the southernmost sections will generally improve starting in the first week of April (judging by the forecasts), and most or all areas will be readily passable with – crucially – suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed.

The remarkable winter has created some challenges in addition to the snow. There can be a great deal of water in the trails, and this has also created a few tricky crossings. Do not trust snow bridges across water at this time; you will not get washed away, but it is a quick way to at least get soaking wet feet, and potentially a nasty fall. Finally, forested trails are covered with downed branches and debris, plus many new treefall hazards, some of which are only becoming apparent as the snow recedes. Trail maintenance by agencies was already years behind schedule due to the coronavirus pandemic, among other reasons, and this winter has greatly exacerbated the situation. Again, patience and caution will be essential this season more than usual.

The PCT from Mile 151 (Highway 74 crossing) to Mile 166 (Fobes Trail) is clearing of snow steadily [checked 23rd and 24th March 2023], see photo below. Fobes Ranch Road and Fobes Trail [checked 24th] are also either clear or clearing of snow (more continuous snow a few inches deep remains on upper Fobes Trail).

Proceeding north from about Mile 166 currently requires considerable snow hiking experience. At this time I recommend carrying snowshoes, crampons, and ice axe, plus you will need the necessary snow hiking experience to use that equipment safely in moderate angle terrain, plus patience, stamina, and route-finding skills. By Sunday 26th March there will be a track to follow for Miles 166-179, and from Miles 179-191 by about Tuesday 28th.

A well established alternate is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road currently has continuous moderate snow cover but there are tracks to follow through the snow, and melting of the lower section will proceed steadily over the next week or so. Soon the conditions will be silimar to my survey on 17th March, when the Road had 50% snow cover on the lower two miles, 90% cover for the next three miles averaging 2-6 inches deep, then 100% cover for the upper three miles, at 6-18 inches deep. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by late morning. Currently no vehicle has driven up from Highway 243 since the last snows.

WEATHER

Conditions continue unsettled for the remainder of March. A moderate warming trend will accelerate melting from 24th-28th. There is an increasing likelihood of a further minor storm system on 29th-30th, with a mix of rain and a few inches of snow at mid elevations (e.g., Idyllwild) and an uncertain 2-10 inches of snow forecast for the high country.

It appears that generally stable, sunny weather with a moderate warming trend may start around 1st April (no fooling). If so, that could herald the beginning of a major melting season.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 20th March 2023 at 1435 the air temperature was 20.8°F (-6°C), with a windchill temperature of 0.5°F (-18°C), 44% relative humidity, and a stiff due West wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 28.0 mph, in complex, multi-layer cloud.

At the Peak on Wednesday 15th March 2023 at 1115 the air temperature was 29.2°F (-2°C), with a windchill temperature of 10.7°F (-12°C), 100% relative humidity, and a gusty WSW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 23.5 mph, in driving sleety rain.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

All trails above about 5000 ft remain largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 6000 ft). This will change steadily with further melting over the next few days and weeks.

Devil’s Slide Trail has my descending snowshoe track from 22nd up to Saddle Junction. It can be firm in cold early mornings (ideal for spikes) but is very soft otherwise, and always by late morning (snowshoes required, or expect very deep and wet postholing). Beware of the huge amount of water flowing in the trail, often obscured under thinning snow, and some associated tricky stream crossings. The track does not follow the established trail route in the uppermost switchbacks close to Saddle Junction, and careful navigation is required. Another major new tree came down (between switchbacks 5 and 6) on 11th March, reported to USFS.

My snowshoe track continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route approximating to the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss. Wild spindrift snow on 22nd will have eliminated parts of the upper track.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are essential. Snowshoes are not advisable due to the angle of the icy snow.

A reliable snowshoe track was put in on lower Deer Springs Trail to Strawberry Junction on Friday 24th March.

Spitler Peak Trail [surveyed 26th March] is clear of snow in its lower half (first 2.4 miles). The upper half of the trail has continuous light snow cover. The initial part of this snowy section has an excellent snowshoe track to follow, but this ends about 3.8 miles from the highway, about one mile below the PCT junction.

In addition to the wider closure mentioned above, effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft received some light snow cover down to about 4500 ft over the past week, but this has already melted.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on Wednesday 22nd March unless otherwise stated. The first number is the current snow depth, which at locations above about 9000 ft elevation is the maximum depth recorded this winter, followed in parentheses by the snow added in this latest storm, and then by a comment where relevant regarding the maximum depth at that location this winter. Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying all storms, and the differential effects of rain on snow in some earlier storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 98-105 inches (added 23-25 inches on 21st-22nd March)

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 71-73 inches (added 16-18 inches on 21st-22nd March), about the same depth recorded on 3rd March

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 73-75 inches (added 18-20 inches on 21st-22nd March), maximum recorded depth this winter c.80 inches on 3rd March

Long Valley (8600 ft): 50-55 inches (added 15+ inches on 21st-22nd March), maximum recorded depth this winter c.60 inches on 3rd March

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 40-45 inches (added 16-18 inches on 21st-22nd March), maximum recorded depth this winter 48-50 inches on 3rd March

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 13-20 inches (added 13 inches on 21st-22nd March), maximum recorded depth this winter 46 inches on 3rd March

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 15-16 inches (added 15-16 inches on 21st-23rd March), maximum depth this winter 45-46 inches on 1st March

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0-1 inch, measured 23rd March (dusting of snow on 22nd), maximum depth this winter 13 inches in first week of March.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 will be no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

The 23rd storm system of winter 2022/23 is currently impacting the San Jacinto mountains. This storm has been forecast to be one of the largest snow-producing storms of this winter so far in the high country. Please check this page for periodic updates throughout the storm (the most recent is at the top).

UPDATE on Wednesday 22nd at 1730

My descent from San Jacinto Peak was uneventful but informative. I hope to complete a full update on conditions tomorrow. New snowfall summary is: San Jacinto Peak 23 inches, Wellman Divide 18-20 inches, Annie’s Junction 20 inches, Saddle Junction 16-18 inches, Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park 13 inches, Idyllwild 12-13 inches. The snow was pleasant and compact in the high country, regardless of its 4-8 feet depth, but soft with grim postholing (even in snowshoes) on Devil’s Slide. At least there is now a useable track to follow.

UPDATE on Wednesday 22nd at 0715

It snowed all night at San Jacinto Peak, with most intensity before midnight. Storm total is now 23 inches of snow, for a current total depth on the ground of 98-102 inches. This winter continues to amaze.

I recorded a brief video discussion at San Jacinto Peak at about 0830, available here on YouTube.

It also snowed much of the night in Idyllwild, adding about 7.5 inches (at 5550 ft) for a storm total of 12-13 inches. It is notclear enough to see how low it snowed, but the freeze level was forecast to be near 4000 ft elevation.

UPDATE on Tuesday 21st March at 2350

Snowing steadily at San Jacinto Peak, having added another six inches since dark for a storm total so far of 16 inches.

After snowing steadily in Idyllwild since dark it has now stopped, with about 3.5 inches having accumulated.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges and obviously 2023 will be no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all readers, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

UPDATE on Tuesday 21st March at 1800

Very little precipitation has fallen in Idyllwild since mid morning, with only 0.06 inch of rain since 0700, and the very limited snow failing to settle.

In contrast, snowfall has been steady at San Jacinto Peak for the past two hours, with the storm total now at 10 inches.

UPDATE on Tuesday 21st March at 1530

After about 1300 the sun put in an appearance in Palm Springs, Idyllwild, and even (very briefly through the spindrift) at San Jacinto Peak. Florian Boyd kindly reports that the snow level on the Desert side of the mountains is above 5000 ft elevation.

Precipitation largely stopped in Idyllwild and the mid elevations, the air temperature moved well above freezing, and Anne described the snow in Idyllwild as already melted off the trees and as turning into a “sloppy mess”.

It has continued to snow lightly at San Jacinto Peak, with the storm total at about 7.5 inches, the wind has dropped a little and conditions are no longer blizzard-like. The major snowfall is expected tonight.

UPDATE on Tuesday 21st March at 1200

Fine snow composed of rounded grains has continued to fall at a rate of about 0.5 inch/hour all morning at San Jacinto Peak. Current storm total is 6 inches. Accompanied by strong westerly winds, it is a genuine whiteout blizzard (conditions which are actually relatively rare up here).

It stopped snowing in Idyllwild (for the time being at least) about two hours ago, and is now raining very lightly, with no significant accumulation so far.

New snowfall at Long Valley (8600ft) is similar, at about six inches. Note that the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is closed today due to the weather.

UPDATE on Tuesday 21st March at 0950

It started snowing late in the night at all elevations above about 4000 ft. Idyllwild received about double the snow expected overnight, with 5.5 inches by 0700 this morning.

It must not have started snowing in the high country until the early hours of this morning. Once I was able to dig out, I measured only about 4-5 inches of fresh snow at San Jacinto Peak, for a current total depth nearing 85 inches.

Long Valley (8600 ft) has received about 4-5 inches of fresh snow this morning.

In all these locations it continues to snow steadily, but below about 6000 ft it is expected to turn to rain later this morning.

Yesterday evening I received a reliable first-hand report of pre-avalanche characteristics (“whoomphing”) in the upper elevations of Snow Creek on the north face of San Jacinto Peak.

With this fresh snowfall, based on my informal and provisional data, this winter becomes the third snowiest in recorded Idyllwild history, behind only two winters in the 1940s, as I previously discussed in an earlier posting (available here).

UPDATE Sunday 19th March: there has been light rain on/off in Idyllwild today, and a dusting of snow in the high country (mainly early morning), with about one inch accumulating in Long Valley (8600 ft).

UPDATE Friday 17th March: San Bernardino National Forest, including the San Jacinto Ranger District, reopened today following expiration of the closure order last night. Some forest roads remain closed (listed below). The State Park wilderness remains closed indefinitely, which includes Miles 183-189 of the PCT (i.e. from just east of Strawberry Junction to about one mile south of Fuller Ridge Campground).

‐——————————

Yet another remarkable storm in this truly memorable winter. The 22nd storm system to impact the San Jacinto mountains brought snow and heavy rain on Tuesday 14th and Wednesday 15th March. It was another mild, rain-generating “pineapple express”, like the storm just four days earlier, but differed in being just cold enough to produce moderate snowfall above 9000 ft elevation.

The storm brought both more snow and rainfall than was generally forecast for our mountains, with a whopping 3.97 inches of rain measured in Idyllwild (at 5550 ft) across the 30 hour duration of the storm, most of that falling late on 14th into the morning of 15th. Combined with temperatures above freezing, the rain on snow led to massive melting at mid elevations up to about 8500 ft, with every possible creek and stream gushing like a major montane torrent. In addition to the couple of photos below, I recorded a short video of the well-known Middle Spring on Devil’s Slide Trail (available here on YouTube) in full flow in the late afternoon of 15th. It is very rarely seen in that condition!

At the highest elevations, it started snowing at 1020 on Tuesday morning, initially heavily but of tiny rounded grains, accumulating to 3.5 inches by evening at San Jacinto Peak. The highest peaks weren’t spared the rain, with drizzle on the evening of 14th, which then turned to snow overnight. Another 8 inches of snow fell overnight at San Jacinto Peak, and then on 15th the precipitation oscillated between drizzle and snow for much of the day, ultimately producing a storm total of 13.5 inches of snow (plus an unknown, moderate, volume of light rain).

With the freeze level moving up and down the mountain multiple times during the storm’s passage, there was no defined snow level, but there was no evidence of snow below 8000 ft, only a dusting at Saddle Junction (8100 ft), and only about 4 inches even as high as Wellman Divide (9700 ft).

I reported a minor avalanche risk to the State Park on 15th above about 10,000 feet on east and north facing slopes (moderate risk for the north face of San Jacinto Peak) due to wind-loaded snow, but layers will have consolidated very quickly due to the rain and fluctuating freeze level. There was no evidence of pre-avalanche characteristics as I descended the high slopes on the afternoon of 15th.

The State Park wilderness closed on 1st March (see State Park website). At this time there is no tentative date for reopening. This closure includes approximately PCT Miles 183-189.

I snowshoed on both Monday 13th and Tuesday 14th to San Jacinto Peak via Devil’s Slide Trail and the eastern side route, returning from the second ascent on the afternoon of Wednesday 15th. On all three days the snow below Saddle Junction was very soft, and even higher by late morning the snow was getting soft and sloppy, and postholing would have been brutal.

Currently trails above about 7000 ft (lower in places) are obscured by moderate to deep snow. Trails down to 5500 ft elevation currently have shallower, increasingly patchy, snow cover. With closures in place, there are very few tracks anywhere. Very cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted snowshoe or crampon track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than an angled icy section just inches deep.

Conditions are currently excellent for snowshoes everywhere above about 7000 ft (lower in places). This elevation will continue to climb steadily over the next few days as temperatures rise and melting accelerates. Tracks in the high country can be quite firm if the early morning is cold (crampons best) but then soften very rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes are preferable.

Crampons – with hiking poles and an ice axe, depending on terrain – may becoming increasingly useful everywhere above about 8500 ft, as colder temperatures on some days, freeze/thaw cycles (and, sadly, rain freezing on top of snow) lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They will likely become essential over the next week or so on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks but critically on the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Currently, and increasingly as snow conditions change, spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 5000 ft. They are currently valuable even for walking around Idyllwild early on cold mornings! This elevation will slowly move upwards with steady melting over the next few days and weeks, but will remain relatively low into April at least.

Recently I have mentioned the challenges of hard, icy snow underfoot and the value of using spikes (and/or crampons) especially for descending and traversing. While fresh snow (and softening, melting, snow) may be optimum for snowshoeing for the next several weeks, snow at all elevations will generally become increasingly firm and icy following multiple freeze-thaw cycles, and compaction by increasing hiker traffic in places (once trails reopen). I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These concerns will steadily increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally stronger insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near or below freezing in the high country, and well below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

The USFS gate at Humber Park is closed. Even when the gate is closed there are nine legal parking spaces below the locked gate (which still require an Adventure Pass or equivalent to be displayed). If there are “Road Closed” signs across Fern Valley Road near its junction with Forest Drive – currently the case due to the Forest closure – then those nine spaces are also unavailable for legal parking.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus their various side roads.

SOME THOUGHTS FOR EARLY SEASON PCT HIKERS

Between the closures and the storms forecast for the remainder of March, the San Jacinto mountains are currently a major challenge for even experienced thru hikers. That said, melting is happening remarkably fast, in part because we are still in Southern California (with the sun and temperatures that go along with that), and because melting has been accelerated by recent storms bringing intense warm rain on top of the snow, especially below about 8000 ft which includes most of the PCT in these mountains.

Hikers with March dates, if you have any flexibility at all in your timing, try to start later (easy for me to say I know). In a year with such dramatic snow conditions further north, it is highly unlikely that starting later than your “official” date will be a problem anywhere. Hikers with April or May dates, conditions in the southernmost sections continue to improve daily, and some or most areas will be passable with suitable skills, equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed.

So much rain – combined with melting snow – has generated a few new problems (in addition to the major snow challenges). Trails clear of snow are very muddy. Generally they dry fast here in Southern California, but that looks unlikely in the next few weeks. There is a great deal of water in the trails (see example photos below), and this has also created some tricky crossings. Do not trust any snow bridges across water at this time; you will not get washed away, but it is a quick way to at least get soaking wet feet, and potentially a nasty fall. Finally, forested trails are covered with downed branches and debris, plus many new treefall hazards, some of which are only becoming apparent as the snow recedes. Trail maintenance was already years behind schedule due to the coronavirus pandemic, and this winter has greatly exacerbated the situation. For these reasons, among others, patience and caution will be essential this season more than usual.

The PCT from Mile 151 (Highway 74 crossing) to Mile 165 (Fobes Trail) is now clear of snow [checked 16th March 2023], see photo below. Fobes Ranch Road and Fobes Trail are also functionally clear of snow (a few tiny patches may remain). I recorded a brief video from Mile 151 on the morning of 16th March (available here on YouTube).

Proceeding north from Mile 165 is not currently recommended, as it will require some combination of snowshoes, crampons, ice axe, and the necessary snow hiking experience to use that equipment safely in moderate angle terrain, plus considerable patience, stamina, and route-finding skills.

It is possible (once the Forest closure is lifted) to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using the well-known Black Mountain Road alternate. Black Mountain Road [surveyed 17th March] currently has 50% snow cover on the lower two miles, 90% cover for the next three miles averaging 2-6 inches deep, then 100% cover for the upper three miles, at 6-18 inches deep. Early in the morning, the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is bad by late morning. Currently no vehicle has driven further than 0.5 mile up from Highway 243 since the last snows.

WEATHER

Conditions continue unsettled for the remainder of March. After a few days of somewhat warmer weather, another major storm system is expected on 20th-22nd March. This will have a more northerly and hence colder origin, similar to the storms of January and February rather than the warmer, wetter systems of the first half of March.

The storm is predicted to start with as much as an inch of rain at mid elevations, with a freeze level then dropping as low as 4500 ft on Wednesday 22nd, precipitation therefore turning to snow, with 2-6 inches possible in Idyllwild. As much as 18-25 inches of snow are forecast for the high country, mainly on the night of 21st. Clear, sunny days at all elevations, but with temperatures remaining below seasonal, start on Thursday 23rd, but a further storm system is possible before the end of March.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Wednesday 15th March 2023 at 1115 the air temperature was 29.2°F (-2°C), with a windchill temperature of 10.7°F (-12°C), 100% relative humidity, and a gusty WSW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 23.5 mph, in driving sleety rain.

At the Peak on Monday 13th March 2023 at 0945 the air temperature was 22.5°F (-5°C), with a windchill temperature of -0.7°F (-18°C), 14% relative humidity, and a wild WNW wind sustained at 24 mph gusting to 38.6 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

All trails above about 6500 ft remain largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 7000 ft). This will change steadily with further melting over the next few days and weeks.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are essential. Snowshoes are not advisable due to the angle of the icy snow.

Devil’s Slide Trail has a lightly-traveled snowshoe track up to Saddle Junction. It can be firm in cold early mornings (ideal for spikes) but is very soft and sloppy at all times currently, and always by late morning (snowshoes required, or expect very deep and wet postholing). Some bare patches are already showing below 7000 ft. Beware of the huge amount of water flowing in the trail, often obscured under thinning snow, and some associated tricky stream crossings. The track does not follow the established trail route in the uppermost switchbacks close to Saddle Junction, and very careful navigation is required. Another major new tree came down (between switchbacks 5 and 6) on 11th March, reported to USFS.

My snowshoe track continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route broadly approximating to the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss. Snow forecast next week will eliminate this track.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail has a lightly traveled snowshoe and posthole track to follow along its entire length. Large parts of the trail, especially near its lower (southern) end, are starting to clear. Early morning the snow can be firm and relatively easy to hike depending on air temperature, but it is otherwise soft with deep postholing. The majority of this trail is not on Forest Service land.

In addition to the wider closure mentioned above, effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft received some light snow cover down to about 4500 ft over the past week, but this has already melted.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on Wednesday 15th March unless otherwise stated. The first number is the current snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded this winter (on or around 3rd March), with a comment regarding the snow added in this latest storm (locations >8000 ft only). Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying all storms, and the differential effects of rain on snow, there is widespread unevenness. Altitudes are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 75 inches (80-85 inches), added 13-14 inches on 14th-15th March

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 55 inches (70-75 inches), added 4 inches on 14th-15th March

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 55 inches (75-80 inches, was heavily drifted here), added 3-4 inches on 14th-15th March

Long Valley (8600 ft): 36-40 inches (55-60 inches), added 1-2 inches on 14th-15th March

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 25-28 inches (48-50 inches), added 0.5 inch on 14th-15th March

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0-10 inches (46 inches)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0-6 inches (45-46 inches)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches), checked 16th March

While many hundreds of challenging hours of time and labor are volunteered annually, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 will be no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

UPDATE Wednesday 15th March at 0930: Another 9 inches of snow fell overnight at San Jacinto Peak for a current storm total of 12.5 inches (plus some light rain yesterday evening). It stopped snowing at 0930. A dusting of 1-2 inches fell in Long Valley (8600 ft) on top of yesterday’s rain.

At 0700 Anne reported a remarkable 3.35 inches of rain for the previous 20 hours in Idyllwild (at 5550 ft).

There is a minor avalanche risk above about 10,000 feet on east and north facing slopes (moderate risk for the north face of San Jac) for the next couple of days, until the new wind loaded snow consolidates with older layers.

UPDATE Tuesday 14th March at 1810: the 22nd storm of the winter is here. It started snowing in the high country at 1020 this morning and accumulated 3.5 inches of fresh powder at San Jacinto Peak, before sadly turning to light rain at 1730. Although a few flakes fell at Long Valley (8600 ft) earlier in the day, it has been too mild for and snow to settle. It started raining in Idyllwild at about 1100, totaling about 0.52 inch (at 5550 ft) by 1730.

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The 21st storm system to impact the San Jacinto mountains this winter was a “pineapple express” which brought steady rain on 10th-11th March. It started raining on Friday 10th morning at about 0700 at mid elevations, eventually reaching the high country with a mixture of rain, freezing rain, and sleet from about 1100. It finally stopped raining on Saturday afternoon, having become intermittent for much of that day. Rainfall in Idyllwild totaled an impressive 2.36 inches (measured at 5550 ft).

Although a few inches of snow were forecast for the highest peaks, sadly it rained all the way to San Jacinto Peak, with no new snowfall (photos below). The relatively warm rain augmented melting that was already underway from recent warmer, sunny days, and areas I checked in the high country have all lost at least 12-18 inches of snow depth in the past week or so.

Closures of both the National Forest lands and State Park wilderness remain in place. The San Bernardino National Forest, including the San Jacinto Ranger District, is closed until 16th March 2023 (closure notice here). There is hope that that closure will be lifted when it expires. The State Park wilderness closed on 1st March (see State Park website). It would be illogical that this closure, inaccurately justified by “unprecedented” snow, will be lifted imminently given that at least two more Pacific storms are already on their way (as discussed below).

I snowshoed on Thursday 9th and Monday 13th to San Jacinto Peak via Devil’s Slide Trail and the eastern side route. On 9th, following freeze/thaw cycles, Devil’s Slide was firm early morning, and I ascended to Saddle Junction just in spikes. I then used snowshoes from there to the Peak, and all the way back down. In contrast on 13th, after recent warm rain, the lower half of Devil’s Slide Trail was a miserable sloppy mess, requiring snowshoes from/to the trailhead. Thankfully, by about 7700 ft elevation, the snow surface had hardened sufficiently to make the going relatively easy.

On both days, my track from the previous ascent had held up well, and both ascents were consequently about two hours faster than when breaking trail through fresh powder on 3rd March. On both 9th and 13th by late morning the snow was getting soft and sloppy, and postholing would have been brutal. Snow conditions are generally benign, excellent for snowshoeing and crampons (depending on elevation), and there is no avalanche risk, even on the north face of San Jac.

Currently trails above about 7000 ft (lower in places) are largely obscured by moderate to deep snow. Trails down to 5000 ft elevation currently have shallower, increasingly patchy, snow cover. With closures in place, there are very few tracks anywhere. Very cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted snowshoe or crampon track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than an angled icy section just inches deep.

Conditions are currently excellent for snowshoes everywhere above about 6000 ft. This elevation will continue to climb steadily over the next few days and weeks as temperatures rise and melting accelerates (especially with more mild rainfall augmenting melting, especially below about 8000 ft). Tracks in the high country are quite firm in the early morning (crampons best) but then soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise, at which point snowshoes are preferable.

Crampons – with hiking poles and an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming increasingly useful everywhere above about 8500 ft, as freeze/thaw cycles (and, sadly, rain freezing on top of snow) lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They will likely become essential on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks but critically on the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Currently, and increasingly as snow conditions change, spikes are strongly recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 5000 ft. They are currently valuable even for walking around Idyllwild early on cold mornings! This elevation will slowly move upwards with steady melting over the next few days and weeks, but will remain relatively low for weeks at least.

Recently I have mentioned the challenges of hard, icy snow underfoot and the value of using spikes (and/or crampons) especially for descending and traversing. While fresh snow (and softening, melting, snow) may be optimum for snowshoeing for the next several weeks, snow at all elevations will generally become increasingly firm and icy following multiple freeze-thaw cycles, and compaction by increasing hiker traffic in places (once trails reopen). I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These concerns will steadily increase over the next few weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing, seasonally stronger insolation, and highly variable snowmelt.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near or below freezing in the high country, and well below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

Based on three comprehensive assessments in the past ten days, there is currently no avalanche risk (even on the north face of San Jacinto Peak, which, contrary to recent erroneous information in local media, avalanches regularly every year, even in low snow years). This forecast may change briefly later this month if there is substantial fresh wind-loaded snow on top of the existing deep icy layer, in the storms forecast for 14th-15th and 19th-23rd March.

The USFS gate at Humber Park is closed. Even when the gate is closed there are nine legal parking spaces below the locked gate (which still require an Adventure Pass or equivalent to be displayed). If there are “Road Closed” signs across Fern Valley Road near its junction with Forest Drive – currently the case due to the Forest closure – then those nine spaces are also unavailable for legal parking.

SOME THOUGHTS FOR EARLY SEASON PCT HIKERS

Between the closures and further March storms forecast, the San Jacinto mountains are currently a major challenge for even experienced early season PCT hikers. That said, melting is happening fast, in part because we are still in Southern California and the March-April sun is potent. Melting has been accelerated by recent warm storms bringing rain on top of the snow, at all elevations, but especially below about 8000 ft, which includes most of the PCT in these mountains.

Hikers with March dates, if you have any flexibility at all in your timing, try to start later (easy for me to say I know). In a year with such dramatic snow conditions further north, it is highly unlikely that starting later than your “official” date will be a problem anywhere. Hikers with April or May dates, conditions in the southernmost sections continue to improve daily, and some or most areas will be passable with suitable skills, equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed.

Fobes Ranch Road (the side access to the PCT from about Mile 165) is clear of snow. The associated Fobes Trail is clearing rapidly. Snow depth has decreased 80-90% in the past week at PCT Mile 151 where the trail crosses Highway 74 (now averaging a patchy few inches with large bare sections). Given the continuing warming trend (and more warm rain) in the next week, by the time the Forest closure is expected to lift on 16th March the PCT will be readily passable from Mile 151-165 (spikes very strongly recommended). Proceeding north from Mile 165 is not currently recommended, as it will require crampons, ice axe, and the necessary snow hiking experience to use that equipment safely in high angle terrain, plus considerable patience, stamina, and route-finding skills.

It is possible (once the Forest closure is lifted) to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using the well-known Black Mountain Road alternate. I will update conditions for all routes and alternates as time and weather permits.

WEATHER

Conditions are forecast to remain unsettled, but relatively warm, for the next ten days. Another mild Pacific storm is expected on the afternoon of Tuesday 14th, with a freeze level above 9000 ft, continuing into Wednesday 15th. Similar to the last one, this storm is predicted to bring up to two inches of rain to mid elevations, but 6-10 inches of snow are forecast for the highest elevations.

There is much less clarity regarding one or two possible storm systems tentatively predicted in the period 19th-23rd March. One or both may be colder than recent March storms, with light snow possibly as low as 7000 ft, while forecasts for snow at the highest elevations have varied widely from 3-18 inches. Most days in that period will at least be windy and cloudy in the high country.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 13th March 2023 at 0945 the air temperature was 22.5°F (-5°C), with a windchill temperature of -0.7°F (-18°C), 14% relative humidity, and a wild WNW wind sustained at 24 mph gusting to 38.6 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 9th March 2023 at 0925 the air temperature was 30.4°F (-1°C), with a windchill temperature of 15.9°F (-9°C), 52% relative humidity, and a fresh WSW wind sustained at 13 mph gusting to 18.1 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

All trails above about 6000 ft are largely snow-covered (wholly snow-covered above about 7000 ft). This will change steadily with melting (and further rainfall) over the next few days and weeks.

Devil’s Slide Trail has a lightly-traveled snowshoe track up to Saddle Junction. It can be firm in cold early mornings (ideal for spikes) but is soft and sloppy at all times currently, and always by late morning (snowshoes required, or expect very deep postholing). Some short bare patches are already showing below 6800 ft. The track does not follow the established trail route in the uppermost switchbacks close to Saddle Junction, and very careful navigation is required. Another major new tree came down (between switchbacks 5 and 6) on about 11th March, reported to USFS.

My snowshoe track continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route broadly approximating to the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails, climbing more steeply in places than the established trails, and generally contouring through the snow as needed to minimize unnecessary elevation loss. Snow forecast over the next week or so may combine with strong winds to obscure parts of this track, especially above about 10,000 ft elevation.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail has a lightly traveled snowshoe and posthole track to follow along its entire length. Early morning the snow can be firm and relatively easy to hike depending on air temperature, but it is otherwise soft with deep postholing. The majority of this trail is not on Forest Service land.

In addition to the wider closure mentioned above, effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft received some light snow cover down to about 4500 ft over the past week, but this has already melted.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on Monday 13th March (unless otherwise stated). The first number is the current snow depth, with the maximum depth recorded this winter, measured on or around 3rd March, given in parentheses. Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying all storms this winter there is widespread drifting. Altitudes are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 68-70 inches (80-85 inches)

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 60 inches (70-75 inches)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 58-60 inches (75-80 inches, heavily drifted here)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 40 inches (55-60 inches)

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 32-36 inches (48-50 inches)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 3-15 inches (46 inches)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 6-15 inches (45-46 inches)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0-4 inches (13 inches)

While many hundreds of hours of time and labor are volunteered annually, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and clearly 2023 will be no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.