UPDATE Wednesday 8th May: the State Park section of Skyline Trail has reopened. The trail is clear of ice and spikes are not required.
I had a delightful hike to San Jacinto Peak early morning Sunday 5th through our 28th storm of winter 2023/24. We only caught the southernmost edge of a more significant system moving through further north and the storm was yet again very minor in terms of precipitation. Light rain started in the early hours and stopped by about 0830. The storm was (relatively) mild and freezing rain plastered the vegetation and rocks as high as 10,100 ft. Although very fine powder dusted down to 9800 ft, there was a barely measurable snow accumulation of 0.25 inch at San Jacinto Peak, with no impact on the trails. Idyllwild recorded a total of 0.18 inch of rain (at 5550 ft).
Daily survey hikes in the San Jacinto mountains include various routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week (most recently on 5th, 6th, and 10th May), Tahquitz Peak and area at least once per week (most recently on 9th and 12th May), plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days.
With generally warm spring temperatures in recent days, most striking has been the rapid acceleration of snowmelt at all elevations (example photos below). It is now possible to bareboot all of the established trail routes, including the entire PCT through the San Jacinto mountains. However, that option is recommended only for hikers very comfortable and experienced hiking on icy snow and using suitable footwear. For most hikers, given variable conditions at present, carrying spikes remains advised everywhere above about 8000 ft. Spikes tend to be particularly useful for descending, especially later in the day, even when they not required for ascending.
Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note however that snow depth itself is very rarely indicative of the difficulty (or ease) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a well-traveled and defined track across deep snow is often much easier hiking than a lightly traveled track across shallow, angled, icy snow.
Black Mountain Road is closed to vehicle traffic due to winter conditions at the gate 1.7 miles up from Highway 243. The new boulder in the road about 0.5 mile above that gate is tentatively planned for removal by late May. The road is now clear of snow to the PCT crossing/Fuller Ridge campground.
South Ridge Road reopened for the season on 23rd April. The upper road is currently suitable only for high clearance AWD/4WD vehicles. Dark Canyon Road has been closed almost continuously for five years, but is expected to reopen in late May 2024. Black Mountain Fire lookout is tentatively scheduled to reopen on 18th May, and Tahquitz Peak Fire lookout on or around 25th May.
Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments elsewhere in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) are now active and have already been seen on the trail system up to at least 6500 ft elevation. Rattlesnakes will get much more active with hot weather in the next two weeks and may be seen anywhere up to 9300 ft by the end of May.
WEATHER
Following the very minor storm on 5th May, spring-like temperatures return to the San Jacinto mountains starting 6th May. Temperatures may then warm even further from Saturday 11th May, and become summer-like, far above seasonal for May, into next week. Snowmelt will be rapid and widespread. There is no currently no further precipitation in the forecasts.
Newly available NWS San Diego data (linked here) indicates that rainfall in Idyllwild is at 77% of average so far this water year. My provisional data indicate snowfall in Idyllwild has been about 85% of seasonal, but well below average (c.65%) at San Jacinto Peak.
At San Jacinto Peak (3295m/10,810ft) on Monday 6th May 2024 at 1425 the air temperature was 39.7°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 35.4°F (2°C), 29% relative humidity, and a very light NNE breeze sustained at 2 mph gusting to 6.0 mph.
At the Peak on Sunday 5th May 2024 at 0830 the air temperature was 19.8°F (-7°C), with a windchill temperature of -0.4°F (-18°C), 100% relative humidity, and a bitter WSW wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 24.8 mph.
TRAIL CONDITIONS
Snowmelt has been very rapid in the past week or so. Trails below 8000 ft are now generally clear of snow. Sun-exposed trails up to 9000 ft are now largely clear of snow (e.g., PCT Miles 179-184.5 from Saddle Junction north to near the top of Marion Mountain Trail). Significant snow-free sections of trails as high as 9900 ft are increasing every day, notably on the sun-exposed eastern side Wellman and Peak trails. A few tiny clear patches are even appearing up to 10,400 ft on the Peak Trail.
Snow quality has deteriorated with warmer weather in recent weeks. Tracks have largely consolidated due to freeze-thaw cycles and hiker traffic, and can still be hard and icy in places especially early morning.
Carrying spikes remains useful for most hikers everywhere above about 8000 ft. Icy compacted snow – following many freeze-thaw cycles and now that most trails have been well-traveled – is largely ideal for spikes. Crampons are essential for the north side of Tahquitz Peak (discussed below) and could be used as an alternative to spikes anywhere on compacted trails above about 10,000 ft for the next few days until bare patches start to become widespread.
Snowshoes are now only of very limited use away from compacted tracks above about 9000 ft elevation on warm days, especially later in the day on sunny slopes. Snowshoes are no longer useful for on-trail travel anywhere as the established tracks are compacted and quickly clearing of snow.
Devil’s Slide Trail is now functionally clear of snow to Saddle Junction. A few tiny icy snow patches remain very close to the Saddle. The Trail Report has undertaken extensive trail maintenance work since February to remove many tree limbs in and over the trail damaged by ice storms this winter.
South Ridge Trail is now functionally clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak, with only a few tiny icy drifts remaining on the uppermost switchbacks. Spikes are no longer required. The Trail Report cleared this winter’s accumulated treefall hazards from South Ridge Trail in April and has also undertaken extensive trail trimming in the past month.
The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between Chinquapin Flat/PCT MIle 177 and Tahquitz Peak has no reliable track to follow all the way through at this time [surveyed most recently on 9th May] across patchy angled icy snow. This ice slope is notoriously treacherous. Spikes at least (preferably crampons with an ice axe) are recommended if attempting to follow this trail section at this time, along with the necessary skills and experience to use that equipment in icy, angled terrain with considerable exposure. This section is however clearing rapidly and will likely have a useable track to follow by mid May.
The Peak Trail track has been well-traveled, fairly accurately follows the true trail route, and already has a few short snow-free patches developing. Near Miller Peak at about 10,400 ft the most heavily-traveled track ascends directly up the East Ridge route, rather than following the Peak Trail switchback, as is traditional in winter conditions. However there is now a posthole track on the uppermost Peak Trail. Wellman Trail is already largely clear of snow where it is outside of forest cover, and the track almost entirely follows the true trail route.
Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. Above Strawberry Junction snow cover is now very sparse to about 8500 ft, within 0.25 mile of the junction with Marion Mountain Trail. A well-traveled but largely uneven posthole track, that does not accurately follow the trail route in many places, continues through largely continuous snow thereafter. Above the Fuller Ridge Trail junction (8900 ft) snow cover is now only 60% on the sun-exposed slopes until 9300 ft. The track(s) are a mess above that elevation, only vaguely following the trail route, and at times diverging into two or even three options, through largely continuous snow cover. All of the tracks ultimately get to Little Round Valley however. The tracks largely coalesce through Little Round Valley where snow cover is 90%. From the upper end of Little Round Valley to San Jacinto Peak snow cover is almost continuous but thinning steadily, and there are several relatively lightly-traveled posthole tracks that all climb directly up the slope, none approximating the true trail route. Spikes are no longer essential but can be helpful, especially for descending the upper trail, along with cautious navigation.
Marion Mountain Trail is almost entirely clear of snow. A handful of small icy snow patches remain, mostly close to the Deer Springs/PCT junction. Some hikers may find spikes are useful for descending the uppermost trail patches.
Spitler Peak Trail suffered badly during ice storms in early February, and I found 34 new treefall hazards down during my surveys earlier this winter, almost all in the upper half. Most are relatively small and readily passable, but a few are larger, and the combined effect is to make for a slower and scrappier hike.
PACIFIC CREST TRAIL
The PCT is functionally clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about 174.5. Old icy snow is now confined to a few tiny patches on north- and east-facing slopes. Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) is now functionally clear of snow. The posthole track on the north side of Red Tahquitz (175-177) does not accurately follow the PCT route in places, through about 80% snow cover.
Snow cover is then significant, but with long snow-free patches increasing every day, between Miles 175-190. The south-facing slopes at Miles 179-180 and 181-183 are now functionally clear of snow.
There is now a reliable posthole track to follow on Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191), and large sections, especially on top of the ridge and on south- and west-facing slopes, are now clear. Although the posthole track does not always accurately the PCT route in places, following the main track is the safest way to traverse these miles. Traversing this section is possible barebooting but spikes may continue to be preferred by most hikers. Also useful are patience, cautious navigation, and an adequate comfort level with hiking on angled icy snow patches.
Hikers wanting to avoid Fuller Ridge can use the Black Mountain Road alternate. Black Mountain Road is open to hikers but not to vehicle traffic at this time. Spikes are not required on Black Mountain Road.
PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail from the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) to Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a significant (but diminishing) section of angled and notoriously treacherous ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, remain recommended. Even in below average snow years like 2024 these slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and they will not safely clear until mid May.
PCT hikers are politely reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak, including in the historic shelter. Mt. San Jacinto State Park regulations do not permit overnight stays in the shelter, which is dedicated for emergency, SAR, and ranger use.
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SNOW DEPTHS measured on 5th May 2024 (unless otherwise indicated) are as follows. The first number gives current average total depth, which also accounts for substantial melting between and since recent storms. The number in brackets is the greatest depth at that location this winter (where known). Note that averages are given; due to strong winds during and after most storms there has been considerable drifting, plus often very uneven melting during warm interludes. Altitudes and PCT mileages are approximate.
San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 20-24 inches [60 inches on 1st April]
Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 24 inches, ranging from 0-50 inches, measured 10th May
Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 0 inches, ranging from 0-10 [41-43 inches on 8th February] photos below
Annie’s Junction/approx. PCT Mile 181.8 (9070 ft): 15 inches [55 inches on 1st April]
Seven Pines Trail junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT Mile 184.9: 4 inches, measured 10th May
Long Valley (8400 ft): 0 inch [24 inches on 8th February]
Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183 (8100 ft): 0 inch
Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179.9 (8070 ft): 2 inches, ranging from 0-12 [32 inches on 1st April]
Devil’s Slide Trail at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inch [15 inches on 8th February]
Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inch [9 inches on 8th February]