Snow and trail update 3rd October 2023

The earliest significant autumn snowfall in the San Jacinto mountains for a generation fell in the high country on the afternoon of Saturday 30th September, while I was at the Peak and then descending, between 1530 and 1710. One inch fell at San Jacinto Peak, with 0.5 inch all the way down to Wellman Divide (9700 ft), 0.25-0.5 inch to 9000 ft, and a dusting down to 8800 ft. Rainfall measured at Saddle Junction (8100 ft) was 0.22 inch, with a very similar 0.25 inch at 5550 ft in Idyllwild. I recorded a short video from San Jacinto Peak during the heaviest graupel on 30th, linked here.

Humber Park closed to all traffic on Sunday 1st October 2023 for at least two weeks due to major road restructuring work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road (see photos below). Note that the impacted trails – Devil’s Slide and Ernie Maxwell – remain open, although access to the upper end of the latter is partially obstructed by fill material (relevant agencies have been informed). Hikers have been requested to use the Ernie Maxwell Trail lower trailhead at Tahquitz View Drive to hike between Devil’s Slide Trail and Idyllwild.

Daily survey hikes in the San Jacinto mountains include several different routes to/from San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 26th and 30th September, and 1st October, plus many other trails on intervening days. Recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak are given in the Weather section below.

Given the intensity of last winter, and the additional wind and rain of Tropical Storm Hilary that passed directly over the San Jacinto mountains on 19th-20th August (as described here), hikers should anticipate encountering treefall hazards, minor washouts and debris on trails, as summarized in Trail Conditions below.

Water sources such as creeks, pipes, and springs are generally flowing remarkably well for the time of year, given the intensity of the past winter, plus additional inputs from Tropical Storm Hilary in August, and the light rain and snow on 30th September. Consequently I will not be reporting water details for specific locations this season. The summer had already seen the most water on the mountain since at least 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98).

Be bear aware. Although rarely reported, up to three Black Bears have been in the San Jacinto mountains since 2017. As I descended upper Marion Mountain Trail at about 8250 ft elevation late morning (0948) on 14th September 2023 I had an excellent sighting, initially in the open at 40-50 metres, of what may have been the same very large (>250lb) dark brown individual with a white chest blaze that I had previously seen on Devil’s Slide Trail in July 2022 and September 2021 (a poor quality video from the latter observation is available here). This is clearly a different individual, based on colour pattern and size, from the “blond” one I saw on Devil’s Slide Trail in August 2020 and had previously filmed walking past our home in Idyllwild in 2018 (video here).

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri may continue to be active on warm, sunny days, currently forecast for 4th-12th October (see photos in a prior Report linked here). Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in the San Jacinto mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, almost always fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 article here). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around both Suicide Rock and Tahquitz Peak, tend to be common locations for sightings.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July improved the situation somewhat, but it remained a bumpy drive that deteriorated further following Tropical Storm Hilary. Dark Canyon Road (4S02) remains closed indefinitely.

South Ridge Road (5S11) was partially graded in the last week of September 2023. It remained closed as of 1st October but is expected to reopen imminently.

Nearly one inch of snow at 10,100 ft on the Peak Trail, late afternoon 30th September 2023. The first snow of the season is always an uplifting sight, but especially so when it happens in September!

WEATHER

The remarkable rollercoaster of temperatures that has characterized the past four months of 2023 will continue in October. Following the genuinely wintery weather of 30th September-2nd October, a rapid warming is forecast to produce summer-like temperatures again on 5th-9th October, before then cooling somewhat to temperatures more typical for the first half of October. There is currently no significant new precipitation in the forecasts. Air temperatures above 10,000 ft elevation are now typically in the 40s Fahrenheit (5-10°C) with windchill temperatures generally close to freezing, depending on wind speed.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Sunday 1st October 2023 at 0835 the air temperature was 24.8°F (-4°C), with a windchill temperature of 7.2°F (-14°C), 97% relative humidity, and a bitter SW wind sustained at 14 mph gusting to 22.4 mph.

At the Peak on Saturday 30th September 2023 at 1510 the air temperature was 31.4°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 14.0°F (-10°C), 100% relative humidity, and a sharp WSW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 22.1 mph.

At the Peak on Tuesday 26th September 2023 at 0805 the air temperature was 51.4°F (11°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 49.6°F (10°C), 10% relative humidity, and a very light WSW breeze sustained at 3 mph gusting to 3.8 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The very light snow that fell on Saturday 30th September above 9000 ft elevation has melted rapidly and no traction devices are required.

See comments above regarding current restricted access to Devil’s Slide Trail and the upper trailhead for Ernie Maxwell Trail.

Tropical Storm Hilary in late August resulted in many minor washouts across the trail system, considerable treefall debris – branches, cones, sticks – in the trails, and water flowing across and in the trails. Damage could have been much worse, and no problems are especially challenging for hikers. Most trails have one or two new treefall hazards, and only Willow Creek Trail seems to have been more significantly impacted.

The rough route cleared along Willow Creek Trail in early August remarkably lasted only two weeks before Tropical Storm Hilary brought down 19 new treefall hazards. Seven of these are on the Forest Service section, including one huge trunk just east of Willow Creek that some hikers will find challenging to pass. Of the 12 on the State Park section, eight have already been cut; there is now a cleared route from Long Valley to Hidden Divide, but four remain uncut between the divide and the Forest Service boundary. The whitethorn trimming is inconsistent and scrappy but overall the trail is more passable than in July. Eight trees – of the 60+ down after last winter – remain to be cut on the USFS section for the original trail route to be fully restored, but that is unlikely to happen soon, if ever.

Deer Springs Trail has about 17 significant treefall hazards below the Fuller Ridge Trail junction remaining from the winter. Water is flowing very well in Little Round Valley and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route. Most of the 12 downed trees above Fuller Ridge on Deer Springs Trail date back many years and have been reported to the State Park multiple times.

Fuller Ridge Trail (PCT Miles 185.5-190.5) has seven treefall hazards, including four on the State Park side. One major hazard near the campground (near Mile 190) can be challenging to pass.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have some significant treefall hazards throughout remaining from last winter. There are seven across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another two on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming has been undertaken regularly. No significant new treefall hazards resulted from Tropical Storm Hilary on this trail. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, probably not until 2024. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail has four notable treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half. One new large stump came down in Hilary low down on the Forest Service section, but it is easy to pass.

Of seven new treefall hazards on Spitler Peak Trail caused by Tropical Storm Hilary, the Trail Report removed five in early October. The couple that remain can be easily walked under by hikers. This brings to 90 the number of trees removed from this trail since July 2021 by the Trail Report. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

On the PCT treefall hazards remain a problem in many places, most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. This section has not yet been resurveyed since T. S. Hilary. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the July 2013 Mountain Fire).

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and functionally no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. The tread of the trail received some minor damage from Tropical Storm Hilary. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My August 2023 survey counted about 110 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is largely clear of treefall hazards. Five new trees came down across the trail in Tropical Storm Hilary, all in the central mile, but they are readily passable for hikers. Be advised that the trail in general becomes more obscure in the mile closest to its junction with the PCT. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, about 70 downed trees have been removed and the trail is thoroughly trimmed and cleared several times per year. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

Uppermost Fern Valley Road immediately below Humber Park on day two of reconstruction work, 2nd October 2023. For obvious reasons access is currently closed, including to hikers/pedestrians.
Extracted fill material from the road work is being dumped in Humber Park for later use. On 2nd October this included blocking access to the Ernie Maxwell Trail as shown. The situation remain unchanged two days later on the morning of 4th October.
Even as low as Annie’s Junction (9070 ft, PCT Mile 180.8) there was a coating of 0.5 inch of snow on the evening of 30th September 2023.
Sunrise looking south from PCT Mile 180 north of Saddle Junction, 1st October 2023. The thick marine layer to the west would soon roll in and cover Idyllwild for the remainder of the day.

Trail update 28th September 2023

UPDATE Saturday 30th September: SNOW! In September! The earliest significant autumn snowfall in the San Jacinto mountains reported in a generation fell in the high country this afternoon, while I was at the Peak and descending between 1530 and 1710. One inch fell at San Jacinto Peak, with 0.5 inch all the way down to Wellman Divide (9700 ft), 0.25-0.5 inch to 9000 ft, and a dusting down to 8800 ft. Rainfall measured at Saddle Junction (8100 ft) and at 5550 ft in Idyllwild was remarkably the same, at 0.22 inch. The snow will not last long, with warm temperatures forecast in a couple of days, but it is fun to see while it lasts. I recorded a short video from San Jacinto Peak during the heaviest graupel, linked here.

Nearly one inch of snow at 10,100 ft on the Peak Trail, late afternoon 30th September 2023.

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Autumnal weather has arrived in the San Jacinto mountains. On Thursday 21st September, I recorded the lowest windchill temperature – still just a modest 27.3°F (-3°C) – observed at San Jacinto Peak since late June. There was also a very light frost in Little Round Valley as we ascended shortly after dawn. On 22nd, a solidly overcast afternoon in the high country included a very light drizzle – 0.01 inch measured at San Jacinto Peak and 0.02 inch at Wellman’s Cienega – but misty cloud enveloping the peaks dissipated by early morning on 23rd (photos below).

A brief but intense cold front may bring wintry weather to the mountains on Saturday 30th September. Temperatures at the highest elevations will be around freezing, with strong winds leading to windchill values far below freezing. Light rain is forecast on Saturday afternoon at mid elevations (e.g., Idyllwild), and with a freeze level near 10,000 ft elevation, there is the possibility of an exceptionally early light snowfall (<1.0 inch) around the highest peaks. Cold temperatures will persist on Sunday 1st October.

Humber Park will be completely closed 24/7 to all forms of traffic, including pedestrian, for at least two weeks starting at 0600 on Sunday 1st October 2023 due to major road restructuring work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road. All hikers, notably PCT hikers, should use the lower Ernie Maxwell Trail access at Tahquitz View Drive to hike between Devil’s Slide Trail and Idyllwild.

Given the intensity of last winter, and the additional wind and rain of Tropical Storm Hilary that passed directly over the San Jacinto mountains on 19th-20th August (as described here), hikers should anticipate encountering treefall hazards, minor washouts and debris on trails, as summarized in Trail Conditions below.

Daily survey hikes in the San Jacinto mountains include several different routes to/from San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 21st, 22nd, 23rd, and 26th September, plus many other trails on intervening days. Recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak are given in the Weather section below. The trail system has been clear of snow since mid July.

Water sources such as creeks, pipes, and springs are generally flowing remarkably well for the time of year (see photos below and those in the previous Report linked here). Consequently I will not be reporting water details for specific locations this season. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since at least 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98), even prior to the additional input from Tropical Storm Hilary in late August.

Be bear aware. Although rarely reported, up to three Black Bears have been in the San Jacinto mountains since 2017. As I descended upper Marion Mountain Trail at about 8250 ft elevation late morning (0948) on 14th September 2023 I had an excellent sighting, initially in the open at 40-50 metres, of what may have been the same very large (>250lb) dark brown individual with a white chest blaze that I had previously seen on Devil’s Slide Trail in July 2022 and September 2021 (a poor quality video from the latter observation is available here). This is clearly a different individual, based on colour pattern and size, from the “blond” one I saw on Devil’s Slide Trail in August 2020 and had previously filmed walking past our home in Idyllwild in 2018 (video here).

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri have remained active on the trail system even on recent cooler days (see photos in a prior Report linked here). Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in the San Jacinto mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, almost always fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 article here). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around both Suicide Rock and Tahquitz Peak, tend to be common locations for sightings.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July improved the situation somewhat, but it remained a bumpy drive that deteriorated further following Tropical Storm Hilary. Dark Canyon Road (4S02) remains closed indefinitely.

South Ridge Road (5S11) was partially graded in the last week of September 2023. It currently remains closed but is expected to reopen by 1st October (except in the event of a federal government shutdown).

WEATHER

Pleasantly cool (and periodically cloudy) autumnal weather has been the theme for most of September. Aside from moderate warming on 26th-27th, temperatures will generally remain near or below seasonal. Air temperatures above 9500 ft elevation are now typically in the 30s-40s Fahrenheit (0-10°C) with windchill temperatures generally a few degrees either side of freezing, depending on wind speed.

Much colder conditions are forecast to briefly accompany a minor cold front on 30th September and 1st October, with windchill temperatures well below freezing (near or below 10°F/-12°C) around the highest peaks on both days. There is currently no major new precipitation in the forecasts, but a possibility of light rain at mid elevations on the afternoon and evening of Saturday 30th, with some forecasts hinting at the possibility of an exceptionally early light snowfall (<1.0 inch) around the highest peaks. Temperatures are expected to warm quickly from Tuesday 3rd October.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Tuesday 26th September 2023 at 0805 the air temperature was 51.4°F (11°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 49.6°F (10°C), 10% relative humidity, and a very light WSW breeze sustained at 3 mph gusting to 3.8 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 21st September 2023 at 1850 the air temperature was 40.5°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.1°F (-2°C), 87% relative humidity, and a fresh WSW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 19.9 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 21st September 2023 at 0900 the air temperature was 39.6°F (4°C), with a windchill temperature of 27.3°F (-3°C), 27% relative humidity, and a cool ESE wind sustained at 14 mph gusting to 22.0 mph.

Sandstorms have been a regular feature this September in the Coachella Valley, as seen here looking east from San Jacinto Peak, 21st September 2023. Debris from the massive flooding during Tropical Storm Hilary in late August was deposited at the north end of the Valley. Now that debris has dried, it is being whipped up by prevailing westerly winds coming through San Gorgonio Pass which then blow dust and sand further south and south-east across the urban areas (left to right in this view).

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system cleared of snow in July. One small icy snow patch has persisted in the Snow Creek drainage (near 9000 ft), but all others have now finally melted.

Tropical Storm Hilary in late August resulted in many minor washouts across the trail system, considerable treefall debris – branches, cones, sticks – in the trails, and water flowing across and in the trails. Damage could have been much worse, and no problems are especially challenging for hikers. Most trails have one or two new treefall hazards, and only Willow Creek Trail seems to have been more significantly impacted.

The rough route cleared along Willow Creek Trail in early August remarkably lasted only two weeks before Tropical Storm Hilary brought down 19 new treefall hazards. Seven of these are on the Forest Service section, including one huge trunk just east of Willow Creek that some hikers will find challenging to pass. Of the 12 on the State Park section, eight have already been cut; there is now a cleared route from Long Valley to Hidden Divide, but four remain uncut between the divide and the Forest Service boundary. The whitethorn trimming is inconsistent and scrappy but overall the trail is more passable than in July. Eight trees – of the 60+ down after last winter – remain to be cut on the USFS section for the original trail route to be fully restored, but that is unlikely to happen soon, if ever.

Deer Springs Trail has about 18 significant treefall hazards below the Fuller Ridge Trail junction remaining from the winter. Water is flowing very well in Little Round Valley and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route. Most of the 12 downed trees above Fuller Ridge on Deer Springs Trail date back many years and have been reported to the State Park multiple times.

Fuller Ridge Trail (PCT Miles 185.5-190.5) has seven treefall hazards, including four on the State Park side. One major hazard near the campground (near Mile 190) can be challenging to pass.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have some significant treefall hazards throughout remaining from last winter. There are seven across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another two on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming has been undertaken regularly. No significant new treefall hazards resulted from Tropical Storm Hilary on this trail. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, probably not until 2024. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail has four notable treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half. One new large stump came down in Hilary low down on the Forest Service section, but it is easy to pass.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places, and were worsened by Hilary; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

On the PCT treefall hazards remain a problem in many places, most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. This section has not yet been resurveyed since T. S. Hilary. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the July 2013 Mountain Fire).

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and functionally no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. The tread of the trail received some minor damage from Tropical Storm Hilary. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My August 2023 survey counted about 110 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is largely clear of treefall hazards. Five new trees came down across the trail in Tropical Storm Hilary, all in the central mile, but they are readily passable for hikers. Be advised that the trail in general becomes more obscure in the mile closest to its junction with the PCT. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, about 70 downed trees have been removed and the trail is thoroughly trimmed and cleared several times per year. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

Equinoctal sunset (above) and sunrise (below) as seen from San Jacinto Peak on 22nd and 23rd September, respectively. The sunset was photographed during a very light drizzle with solid cloud cover at about 13,000 ft elevation, while the sunrise eventually emerged through somewhat lower cloud that was enveloping the Peak.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

The creek flowing strongly through the meadow in Little Round Valley, early morning 21st September 2023. A light frost is visible on some of the meadow vegetation.
The North Fork of the San Jacinto River where it crosses Fuller Ridge Trail at PCT Mile 186.1, about 8850 ft elevation, 14th September 2023. The superb flow here is the strongest in September for at least a generation.

Trail update 14th September 2023

Tropical Storm (formerly Hurricane) Jova passed roughly 1000 miles to the south-west of the San Jacinto mountains last weekend. Despite the great distance, cloud bands from the storm on Sunday 10th September produced some localized light rain, with 0.05 inch in Idyllwild (at 5550 ft), 0.03 inch at Wellman’s Cienega (9300 ft) and 0.04 inch at San Jacinto Peak, but none measurable at Saddle Junction (8100 ft).

Humber Park will be closed to all vehicular and pedestrian traffic for at least two weeks starting 1st October 2023 due to major road work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road. All hikers, notably PCT hikers, should use the Ernie Maxwell Trail access via Tahquitz View Drive to get to/from Idyllwild. In addition be prepared for potential disruption accessing trailheads near Idyllwild throughout September-October due to resurfacing work on Fern Valley Road and both North Circle and South Circle drives.

Given the intensity of last winter, and the additional wind and rain of Tropical Storm Hilary that passed directly over the San Jacinto mountains on 19th-20th August (as described here), hikers should anticipate encountering treefall hazards, minor washouts and debris on trails, see Trail Conditions below.

Daily survey hikes in the San Jacinto mountains include several different routes to/from San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 8th, 13th, and 14th September, plus many other trails on intervening days. Recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak are given in the Weather section below. The trail system has been clear of snow since mid July.

Water sources such as creeks, pipes, and springs are generally flowing remarkably well for the time of year (see photos below and those in the previous Report linked here). Consequently I am not reporting water details for specific locations at this time. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since at least 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98), even prior to the additional input from Tropical Storm Hilary in late August.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri have been active on the trail system up to 9300 ft, even on recent cooler days (see photos in previous Report linked here). Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in the San Jacinto mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, almost always fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 article here). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around both Suicide Rock and Tahquitz Peak, tend to be common locations for sightings.

Be bear aware. Although rarely reported, up to three Black Bears have been in the San Jacinto mountains since 2017. As I descended upper Marion Mountain Trail at about 8250 ft elevation late morning (0948) on 14th September 2023 I had an excellent sighting, initially in the open at 40-50 metres, of what appears to be the same very large (>250lb) dark brown individual with a white chest blaze that I had previously seen on Devil’s Slide Trail in July 2022 and September 2021 (a poor quality video from the latter observation is available here). This is clearly a different individual, based on colour pattern and size, from the “blond” one I saw on Devil’s Slide Trail in August 2020 and had previously filmed walking past our home in Idyllwild in 2018 (video here).

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July improved the situation somewhat, but it remained a bumpy drive that deteriorated further following Tropical Storm Hilary. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Dark Canyon campground and the South Ridge yellow post sites remain closed.

WEATHER

Pleasantly cool (and periodically cloudy) autumnal weather has been, and will continue to be, the theme for most of September. This coming weekend, 15th-17th September, will briefly have above seasonal temperatures, before dropping to near- or below-average temperatures on 18th-23rd at least. Air temperatures above 10,000 ft elevation are now in the 40s Fahrenheit (5-10°C) with windchill temperatures typically a few degrees either side of freezing depending on wind strength. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Thursday 14th September 2023 at 0815 the air temperature was 46.9°F (8°C), with a windchill temperature of 38.1°F (3°C), 72% relative humidity, and a cool ESE wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 12.2 mph.

At the Peak on Wednesday 13th September 2023 at 0830 the air temperature was 47.7°F (9°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 45.9°F (8°C), 17% relative humidity, and a very light due West breeze sustained at 1 mph gusting to 2.8 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 8th September 2023 at 1005 the air temperature was 56.1°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 51.4°F (11°C), 47% relative humidity, and a brisk WSW wind sustained at 7 mph gusting to 11.2 mph.

Beautiful altocumulus clouds as seen looking north-west from near South Ridge Trail just below Tahquitz Peak, 12th September 2023.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system cleared of snow in July. A couple of icy snow patches remaining in the Snow Creek drainage (between 8500-9500 ft) have persisted into September, but others higher up were finally melted by the rains of Tropical Storm Hilary.

Hilary resulted in many minor washouts across the trail system, considerable treefall debris – branches, cones, sticks – in the trails, and water flowing across and in the trails. Damage could have been much worse, and few problems are particularly challenging for hikers. Most trails have one or two new treefall hazards, and only Willow Creek Trail seems to have been more severely impacted.

The rough route cleared along Willow Creek Trail in early August remarkably lasted only two weeks before Tropical Storm Hilary brought down 19 new treefall hazards. Seven of these are on the Forest Service section, including one huge trunk just east of Willow Creek that some hikers will find challenging to pass. Of the 12 on the State Park section, eight have already been cut; there is now a cleared route from Long Valley to Hidden Divide, but four remain uncut between the divide and the Forest Service boundary. The whitethorn trimming is inconsistent and scrappy but overall the trail is more passable than in July. Eight trees – of the 60+ down after last winter – remain to be cut on the USFS section for the original trail route to be fully restored, but that is unlikely to happen soon, if ever.

Deer Springs Trail has about 16 significant treefall hazards remaining from the winter. Water is flowing very well in Little Round Valley and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have some significant treefall hazards throughout remaining from last winter. There are seven across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another two on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming has been undertaken regularly. No significant new treefall hazards resulted from Tropical Storm Hilary on this trail. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, probably not until 2024. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail has four notable treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half. One new huge stump came down in Hilary low down on the Forest Service section, but it is easy to pass. The State Park installed new signage near the USFS/State Park boundary on 23rd August.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places, and were worsened by Hilary; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

On the PCT treefall hazards remain a problem in many places, most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. This section has not yet been resurveyed since T. S. Hilary. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the July 2013 Mountain Fire).

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and functionally no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. The tread of the trail received some minor damage from Tropical Storm Hilary. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My August 2023 survey counted about 110 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is largely clear of treefall hazards. Five new trees came down across the trail in Tropical Storm Hilary, all in the central mile, but they are easily passable for hikers. Be advised that the trail in general becomes more obscure in the mile closest to its junction with the PCT. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, about 70 downed trees have been removed and the trail is thoroughly trimmed and cleared several times per year. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

The North Fork of the San Jacinto River where it crosses Fuller Ridge Trail at PCT Mile 186.1, about 8850 ft elevation, 14th September 2023. The superb flow here is the strongest in September for at least a generation.
The North Fork of the San Jacinto River flowing strongly where it is crossed by Seven Pines Trail (6900 ft), 8th September 2023.
The best known north spring adjacent to the trail at Wellman’s Cienega, 13th September 2023, with a flow rate more typical of June.
Deer Springs where they flow across Deer Springs Trail at about PCT Mile 185.3, 14th September 2023.
The creek in Little Round Valley flowing strongly, 14th September 2023.

Trail update 7th September 2023

Assessment of almost all trails has been completed since Tropical Storm Hilary passed directly over the San Jacinto mountains on 19th-20th August. Given the intensity of this past winter, and the additional wind and rain of Tropical Storm Hilary, hikers should anticipate encountering treefall hazards, minor washouts and debris on trails, as described in Trail Conditions below.

Daily survey hikes include many different routes to/from San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 1st and 5th September, plus other major trails on intervening days. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below. The trail system has been clear of snow since mid July.

In summer (and on 8th-11th September in particular) hikers should be prepared for unseasonably hot weather in the high country. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and hydration requirements.

Water sources such as creeks, pipes, and springs are generally flowing very well (see example photos below). Consequently I am not reporting water details for specific locations at this time. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98), even prior to the additional input from Tropical Storm Hilary.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri have been active on the trail system up to 9300 ft, even on recent cooler days (photos below). Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in the San Jacinto mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, almost always fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 article here). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around both Suicide Rock and Tahquitz Peak, are common locations for sightings.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July improved the situation somewhat, but it remained a bumpy drive, now worsened by the rains of Tropical Storm Hilary. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Dark Canyon campground and the South Ridge yellow post sites remain closed.

Due to major road work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road, Humber Park will be completely closed to all traffic for two weeks starting 1st October 2023 (exact dates tentative at this time). In general be prepared for disruption accessing trailheads near Idyllwild throughout September-October due to resurfacing work on Fern Valley Road and North Circle and South Circle drives.

Two beautiful Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus [oreganus] helleri) on the trail system, 1st September 2023. Above, a sluggish juvenile about 18 inches long at 8600 ft on the PCT just north of Saddle Junction, and below, a much more active four feet long adult at 6600 ft just above Humber Park alongside Devil’s Slide Trail.

WEATHER

Temperatures were pleasantly autumnal for the first five days of September, having dropped well below seasonal. They are expected to rise again to well above average from 8th-11th, before then dropping once again to about seasonal for September from Wednesday 13th. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Tuesday 5th September 2023 at 0800 the air temperature was 51.2°F (11°C), with a windchill temperature of 45.0°F (7°C), 14% relative humidity, and a gusty SSW wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 11.2 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 1st September 2023 at 0755 the air temperature was 47.7°F (9°C), with a windchill temperature of 39.2°F (4°C), 76% relative humidity, and a stiff SSW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 17.4 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system cleared of snow in July. A couple of icy snow patches remaining in the Snow Creek drainage (between 8500-9500 ft) have persisted into September, but others higher up were finally melted by the rains of Tropical Storm Hilary.

Hilary resulted in many minor washouts across the trail system, considerable treefall debris – branches, cones, sticks – in the trails, and water flowing across and in the trails. Damage could have been much worse, and few problems are challenging for hikers. Most trails have one or two new treefall hazards, and only Willow Creek Trail seems to have been more severely impacted.

The route cleared along Willow Creek Trail in early August lasted only two weeks before Tropical Storm Hilary brought down 19 new treefall hazards. Seven of these are on the Forest Service section, including one huge trunk just east of Willow Creek that many hikers may find challenging to pass. Of the 12 on the State Park section, eight have already been cut; there is now a cleared route from Long Valley to Hidden Divide, but four remain uncut between the divide and the Forest Service boundary. The whitethorn trimming is inconsistent and scrappy but overall the trail is more passable than in July. Eight trees – of the 60+ down after last winter – remain to be cut on the USFS section for the original trail route to be fully restored, but that is unlikely to happen soon, if ever.

Deer Springs Trail has about 16 significant treefall hazards remaining from the winter. Water is flowing very well in Little Round Valley and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have some significant treefall hazards throughout remaining from last winter. There are seven across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another two on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. No significant new treefall hazards resulted from Tropical Storm Hilary on this trail. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly not until 2024. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail has four notable treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half. One new huge stump came down in Hilary low down on the Forest Service section. The State Park installed new signage near the USFS/State Park boundary on 23rd August.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places, and were worsened by Hilary; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

On the PCT treefall hazards remain a problem in many places, most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. This section has not yet been resurveyed since T. S. Hilary. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the July 2013 Mountain Fire).

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and functionally no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. The tread of the trail received some minor damage from Tropical Storm Hilary. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My August 2023 survey counted about 110 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is largely clear of treefall hazards. Five new trees came down across the trail in Tropical Storm Hilary, all in the central mile, but they are easily passable for hikers. Be advised that the trail in general becomes more obscure in the mile closest to its junction with the PCT. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, about 70 downed trees have been removed and the trail is thoroughly trimmed and cleared at least in spring and autumn. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

Tahquitz Ivesia (Ivesia callida) near Tahquitz Peak, 4th September 2023. Possibly the rarest of the 12+ flower species endemic to the San Jacinto mountains, with a population possibly fewer than 2000 plants. Above, the tiny cream flowers measure only about 0.5 inch across. Below, typical location in a crack on a steep granite rock face, with Parish’s Catchfly (Silene parishii) in the background.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

One of about a dozen trees cleared just prior to the Labor Day weekend between the High Trail junction and Hidden Divide on Willow Creek Trail that were brought down during Tropical Storm Hilary. Photo 5th September 2023.
Round Valley faucet continuing to flow strongly, 5th September 2023. The creek behind also continues to flow well.
The very well known northern spring adjacent to the trail at Wellman’s Cienega, flowing strongly for the time of year, 5th September 2023.
The small log bridge across the creek at the lower (east) end of Skunk Cabbage Meadow barely survived Tropical Storm Hilary, and accumulated a lot of tree debris as the flood waters receded. Photo 4th September 2023
Tahquitz Creek flowing well where it crosses the PCT at about Mile 177 just downstream from its source, 4th September 2023.
Tahquitz Creek flowing strongly for September at the lower (northern) end of Little Tahquitz Meadow, 4th September 2023. Note the flattened grass upstream, and below the rocks in the foreground, evidence of the huge amount of water that flowed through the area two weeks earlier during Tropical Storm Hilary.
The small tributary to Tahquitz Creek that flows through Tahquitz Valley where it crosses the meadow trail, 4th September 2023. This is the first year since 2012 that this creek has continued to flow into September.

Trail update 31st August 2023

The full impacts from Tropical Storm Hilary, with its impressive 8-12 inches of rain across the San Jacinto high country, are still being assessed, although almost all trails have now been hiked at least once since the storm. Many minor washouts and considerable treefall debris remain in the trails following Hilary, but frankly the impacts could have been much worse. The only trail with major treefall damage surveyed to date is Willow Creek Trail (details and photos below), which sadly had only two weeks earlier been cleared of 60+ downed trees accumulated over the previous three years. The rainfall from Hilary has thankfully helped suppress and shorten our fire season.

Daily survey hikes include many different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 25th, 27th, and 29th August, plus many other trails on intervening days. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below. The trail system has been clear of snow since mid July.

On 29th-31st August hikers should be prepared for temperatures well above seasonal. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and hydration requirements. Conversely, rapid cooling on 1st-4th September will lead to windchill temperatures below freezing above 10,000 ft elevation. Temperatures will then swing back above seasonal – for September – from 6th-9th.

Hikers should also be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions in the high country. Monsoon thunderstorms are always a possibility in summer and early autumn. Lightning, brief but intense precipitation, and rapid temperature drops can occur in the high country even when such storms are not forecast for lower elevations.

Water sources such as creeks, pipes, and springs are flowing very well (see previous Report for some before-and-after storm photos) with flow rates well above the average of the last decade. Consequently I am not reporting water details for specific locations at this time. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98), even prior to the additional input from Tropical Storm Hilary. Hidden Lake was refilled by Hilary, having been about 50% full by volume immediately prior to the storm (photo below).

Given the intensity of this past winter, and the additional wind and rain of Tropical Storm Hilary, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards and considerable fresh debris, on trails. Trails are slowly being cleared, largely by volunteers, as described in Trail Conditions below.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri have been active on the trail system up to 9300 ft, mainly on warm, sunny days. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in the San Jacinto mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, almost always fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 discussion here). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around Tahquitz Peak, are common locations for sightings.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July improved the situation somewhat, but it remained a bumpy drive which has been worsened by the rains of Tropical Storm Hilary. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Dark Canyon campground and the South Ridge yellow post sites remain closed. The State Park campgrounds, temporarily closed following Hilary, have reopened.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled to end on Friday 1st September 2023. See the Tramway website for details.

Due to major road work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road, Humber Park parking area will be completely closed to all traffic for two weeks in October 2023 (exact dates currently unknown). In general be prepared for disruption accessing trailheads around Idyllwild throughout September-October due to resurfacing work on lower Saunders Meadow and Fern Valley roads and North Circle and South Circle drives.

Hidden Lake, 25th August 2023. Following Tropical Storm Hilary the lake was full, which is exceptional for late August.

WEATHER

Temperatures have been on a rollercoaster ride since Tropical Storm Hilary passed directly over the San Jacinto mountains on 20th August. Conditions were pleasantly cool for several days following the storm, before a brief but potent heatwave arrived on 28th August, forecast to last until the end of the month. Temperatures will then rapidly plunge to well below seasonal in the first four days of September, before rising again to above average from 7th-11th at least. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts, but the possibility of a brief monsoonal thunderstorm on Saturday 2nd.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Tuesday 29th August 2023 at 0755 the air temperature was 56.8°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 52.2°F (11°C), 50% relative humidity, and a very gusty WNW wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 13.6 mph.

At the Peak on Sunday 27th August 2023 at 0605 the air temperature was 50.9°F (10°C), with a windchill temperature of 43.3°F (6°C), 37% relative humidity, and a fresh SW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 19.9 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 25th August 2023 at 0730 the air temperature was 48.1°F (9°C), with a windchill temperature of 37.8°F (3°C), 45% relative humidity, and a blustery SSW wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 20.6 mph.

California Toad (Anaxyrus boreas halophilus), Willow Creek Trail, 25th August 2023. A mass emergence of toadlets, all no more than one inch long such as the one shown, made for a very different type of trail hazard in several places along Willow Creek Trail that day, possibly in response to the widespread damp conditions following Tropical Storm Hilary.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is clear of snow. A couple of icy snow patches remaining in the Snow Creek drainage (between 8500-9500 ft) will last into September, but others higher up were finally melted by the rains of Tropical Storm Hilary.

Hilary resulted in many minor washouts across the trail system, considerable treefall debris – branches, cones, sticks – in the trails, and water flowing across and in the trails. Damage could have been much worse, and few problems are challenging for hikers. Most trails have one or two new treefall hazards, and only Willow Creek Trail seems to have been more severely impacted.

After three years of neglect by the Forest Service, Willow Creek Trail had a continuous route cleared through in early August, largely by California Conservation Corps, plus volunteers from multiple organizations. Regrettably that relatively clear route lasted only two weeks as Tropical Storm Hilary brought down 19 new treefall hazards, including several very large ones that can be challenging to pass. Seven of these are on the Forest Service section, with 12 on the State Park section, most of the latter near Hidden Divide and the High Trail junction (photos below). In several areas the whitethorn trimming done earlier in August is frankly scrappy but nevertheless the trail is more readily passable than before. Of the 68 trees that were across the trail following the winter (and prior to Hilary), eight remain to be cut on the USFS section for the original course of the trail to be fully restored.

Deer Springs Trail has about 16 significant treefall hazards remaining from the winter. Water is flowing very well in Little Round Valley and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have some significant treefall hazards throughout remaining from last winter. There are seven across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another two on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly not until August. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail has four notable treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half. One new huge stump came down in Hilary low down on the Forest Service section. The State Park installed new signage near the USFS/State Park boundary on 23rd August.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places, and were worsened by Hilary; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

On the PCT treefall hazards remain a problem in many places, most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. This section has not yet been resurveyed since T. S. Hilary. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the July 2013 Mountain Fire).

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and functionally no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of treefall hazards for about three miles of its 3.7 miles length. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

Major washout several feet deep on Willow Creek Trail following Tropical Storm Hilary, 25th August 2023. It is easily passed just a few yards upstream, but the damage to the tread is severe.
Very large (50 inch diameter) newly downed tree following Tropical Storm Hilary, near the Willow Creek crossing on the Willow Creek Trail, 25th August 2023. This obstruction is relatively tricky for hikers to cross and some caution is required.
Above and below, major treefall hazards on the State Park section of Willow Creek Trail, brought down by Tropical Storm Hilary, 25th August 2023. Trust me, the trail is there somewhere under all those branches! Above, on the south side of Hidden Divide, below, on the north side of the Divide near the High Trail junction.
A very localized wind event, possibly even a mini tornado, brought down at least 15 trees in a small area around the junction of Willow Creek and High trails, during the passage of Tropical Storm Hilary. Most trees affected had been killed by the 2013 Mountain Fire, such as those shown above, but the wind sadly uprooted full-sized living conifers as well. Photo 25th August 2023.
The pipe at Round Valley flowing very strongly, 25th August 2023. Note all the debris piled up against the pipe and signpost following flash flooding that occurred throughout Round and Long valleys during Tropical Storm Hilary.
Above and below, two very different views of Middle Spring (7400 ft) on Devil’s Slide Trail. Above, following Tropical Storm Hilary, early morning of 21st August 2023, and below, barely trickling just three days earlier on 18th August 2023.

Tropical Storm Hilary and trail update 25th August 2023

Tropical Storm Hilary became the first such storm to make landfall in California in 84 years, and its impacts were felt across our region on 19th-20th August. Indeed the remnants of the eye of former Hurricane Hilary actually traveled northward directly over the San Jacinto mountains late on Sunday 20th, bulldozing heavy precipitation ahead of it, along with gusty winds.

Rain that had been forecast to start on Saturday morning ultimately did not impact most of the mountain range until Sunday 20th August. The notable exception was on the east side, where thunderstorms over Long Valley (8600 ft) produced 2.3 inches of rain on 19th, while Idyllwild, only a few miles away, recorded no rain that day.

The southern and western slopes did not receive any rain until the early hours of Sunday 20th, and the rain only intensified in the afternoon of 20th. Nevertheless, the final two day storm rainfall totals were impressive, with 4.30 inches in Idyllwild (measured at 5550 ft), 6.10 inches at Saddle Junction (8100 ft), 8.25 inches at San Jacinto Peak (measured at 10,700 ft), and a remarkable 11.74 inches in Long Valley (8600 ft). The rainfall from Hilary was much appreciated, and has certainly helped suppress and shorten our fire season.

Winds were much less impressive, and did not match those of Tropical Storm Kay that passed offshore Southern California in early September last year. Gusts at 50-55 mph were recorded in Apple Canyon, and just outside our area a gust of 61 mph was measured at Whitewater.

Daily survey hikes include many different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 21st, 23rd, and 25th August, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below. The trail system has been clear of snow since mid July.

There is currently a large volume of water and treefall debris in the trails following Tropical Storm Hilary, although the impacts could have been much worse. All trails have minor washouts, but nothing unduly problematic. The only trail surveyed so far with major treefall damage is Willow Creek Trail (details below), which had only just been cleared of nearly 70 trees accumulated over three years of neglect.

Hikers in summer should be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions in the high country. Monsoon thunderstorms are forecast as a possibility on several days for the next two weeks. Lightning, brief but intense precipitation, and rapid temperature drops can occur in the high country even when such storms are not forecast for lower elevations.

In the summer (and from 26th-30th August in particular) hikers should also be prepared for temperatures above seasonal in the high country. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and hydration requirements.

Water sources such as creeks, pipes, and springs are flowing extremely well (see below for some “before-and-after” storm photos, and also photos in the prior Report linked here). Even after the brief boost from the heavy rainfall of recent days subsides, flow rates will continue to be well above the average of the last decade. Consequently in contrast to most recent years I am not reporting water flow details for specific locations at this time. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98), even prior to the effects of Tropical Storm Hilary. Hidden Lake was refilled by Hilary, having been about 50% full by volume immediately prior to the storm (photo below).

Given the intensity of this past winter, and the wind and rain of Tropical Storm Hilary, hikers should expect to encounter new treefall hazards and considerable fresh debris, on trails. Trails are slowly being cleared, largely by volunteers, as described in Trail Conditions below.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri were active on the trail system up to 9300 ft prior to Tropical Storm Hilary, and will likely reappear soon once temperatures warm again in the next few days. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in the San Jacinto mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, almost always fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 article here for further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July improved the situation somewhat, but it remained a bumpy drive which will have been worsened by the rains of Tropical Storm Hilary. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Dark Canyon campground and the South Ridge yellow post sites remain closed. The State Park campground at Stone Creek is temporarily closed due to maintenance issues following Hilary.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is currently underway, with a scheduled reopening on 1st September 2023. See the Tramway website for further details.

Due to major road work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road, Humber Park parking area will be completely closed to all traffic for two weeks in October 2023 (exact dates currently unknown). In general be prepared for possible disruption accessing trailheads around Idyllwild throughout August-October due to resurfacing work on lower Saunders Meadow and Fern Valley roads and North Circle and South Circle drives.

Beautiful cool, damp, misty conditions on the PCT just north of Saddle Junction, early morning of 21st August 2023. No heat, no snakes, no dust, and water everywhere, all exceptional conditions for August that made Anabel (and me) very happy.

WEATHER

Tropical Storm Hilary produced the heavy rainfall that was widely forecast, and gusty (but not damaging) winds reminiscent of a typical Santa Ana event. The remnants of the eye of former Hurricane Hilary traveled south-north directly across the San Jacinto mountains late on Sunday 20th, bulldozing heavy precipitation ahead. Rain that had been forecast to start on Saturday morning ultimately did not impact most of the mountain range until Sunday 20th. The notable exception was on the east side, where thunderstorms over Long Valley (8600 ft) produced 2.3 inches of rain on 19th, while Idyllwild, only a few miles away, recorded no rain that day.

The southern and western slopes did not receive any rain until about 0200 on Sunday 20th, intensifying in the afternoon of 20th. The final two day storm rainfall totals were impressive, with 4.30 inches in Idyllwild (measured at 5550 ft), 6.10 inches at Saddle Junction (8100 ft), approx. 8.25 inches at San Jacinto Peak (measured at 10,700 ft), and a remarkable 11.74 inches in Long Valley (8600 ft).

Daytime high temperatures remain below seasonal averages for the next few days, although overnight “low” temperatures will be back well above average by Wednesday 23rd. A minor heatwave then follows on 26th-30th August with temperatures far above seasonal for late August. Monsoonal thunderstorms are possible starting Wednesday 30th August into early September. Temperatures are forecast to cool in the first few days of September, but remain above seasonal.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Friday 25th August 2023 at 0730 the air temperature was 48.1°F (9°C), with a windchill temperature of 37.8°F (3°C), 45% relative humidity, and a blustery SSW wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 20.6 mph.

At the Peak on Wednesday 23rd August 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 50.7°F (10°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 43.5°F (6°C), 31% relative humidity, and a pleasant due South wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 16.2 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 21st August 2023 at 0920 the air temperature was 41.1°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.4°F (-2°C), 45% relative humidity, and a brisk due South wind sustained at 13 mph gusting to 23.6 mph.

Hidden Lake panorama, 25th August 2023. Following Tropical Storm Hilary the lake is full, which is of course exceptional for late August.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is clear of snow. Despite my optimistic predictions earlier in the summer, no snow patches quite survived on or near the trail system into August, with the last few on the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak finally melting in the last week of July. A couple of icy snow patches remaining in the Snow Creek drainage (between 8500-9500 ft) will last into September, but others higher up were melted by the rains of Tropical Storm Hilary.

Hilary resulted in many minor washouts across the trail system, considerable treefall debris – branches, cones, sticks – in the trails, and water flowing across and in the trails. Damage could have been much worse, and few problems are especially challenging for hikers. Most trails have one or two new treefall hazards, and only Willow Creek Trail seems to have been more severely impacted.

Deer Springs Trail has about 16 significant treefall hazards. Water is flowing very well in Little Round Valley and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have some significant treefall hazards throughout remaining from last winter. There are seven across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another two on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

After three years of neglect by the Forest Service, Willow Creek Trail had a continuous route cleared through in early August, largely by California Conservation Corps plus volunteers from PCTA, State Park, and USFS, among others. Regrettably that relatively clear route lasted only two weeks as Tropical Storm Hilary brought down 19 new treefall hazards, including several very large ones that are challenging to pass. Seven of these are on the Forest Service section, with 12 on the State Park section, most of the latter near Hidden Divide and the High Trail junction (photos below). In several areas the whitethorn trimming done earlier in August is frankly scrappy but nevertheless the trail is more readily passable than before. Of the 68 treefall hazards that were across the trail following the winter, eight remain to be cut on the USFS section for the original course of the trail to be fully restored, but that is unlikely to happen anytime soon, if ever.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly not until August. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail has four notable treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half. One new huge stump came down in Hilary low down on the Forest Service section. The State Park installed a new sign at the USFS/State Park boundary on 23rd August.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places, and were worsened by Hilary; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

On the PCT treefall hazards remain a problem in many places, most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. This section has not yet been resurveyed since T. S. Hilary. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the July 2013 Mountain Fire).

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and functionally no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of treefall hazards for about three miles of its 3.7 miles length. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

Upper Devil’s Slide Trail briefly turned into a creek, early morning of 21st August 2023. Waterproof ankle-high footwear and gaiters are recommended on the high country trails for the next few days, despite the time of year.
The lull after the storm. Suicide Rock as seen from upper Devil’s Slide Trail, early morning 21st August 2023.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

Major washout several feet deep on Willow Creek Trail following Tropical Storm Hilary, 25th August 2023. It is easily passed just a few yards upstream, but the damage to the tread is severe.
Huge (50 inch diameter) newly downed tree following Tropical Storm Hilary, near the Willow Creek crossing on the Willow Creek Trail, 25th August 2023.
Above and below, major treefall hazards on the State Park section of Willow Creek Trail, brought down by Tropical Storm Hilary, 25th August 2023. Trust me, the trail is there somewhere under all those branches! Above, on the south side of Hidden Divide, below, on the north side of the Divide near the High Trail junction.
A very localized wind event, possibly even a micro tornado, brought down at least 15 trees in a small area around the junction of Willow Creek and High trails, during the passage of Tropical Storm Hilary. Although many of the trees had been killed by the 2013 Mountain Fire, such as those shown above, the wind uprooted several full-sized living pines and firs as well. Photo 25th August 2023.
The pipe at Round Valley flowing very strongly, 25th August 2023. Note all the debris piled up against the pipe and signpost following flash flooding throughout Round and Long valleys during Tropical Storm Hilary.
Above and below, two very different views of Middle Spring (7400 ft) on Devil’s Slide Trail. Above, following Tropical Storm Hilary, early morning of 21st August 2023, and below, barely trickling just three days earlier on 18th August 2023.
Above and below, the well-known northern spring adjacent to the trail at Wellman’s Cienega (9300 ft). Above, on 21st August 2023 swollen with rainwater from Tropical Storm Hilary, and below, on 18th August 2023, already flowing relatively strongly for the time of year.
The creek in Little Round Valley on 21st August 2023. Already flowing very well for late August, the many inches of rainwater input from Tropical Storm Hilary made this creek a rushing torrent.
The North Fork of the San Jacinto River where it crosses Deer Springs Trail (c.9400 ft), 21st August 2023.

Weather and trail update 16th August 2023

WEATHER UPDATE 20th August 2023 at 2015: Heavy rains from Tropical Storm Hilary have mainly fallen this afternoon. In Idyllwild the storm total has reached 2.85 inches at 5550 ft. In Long Valley, at 8600 ft on the eastern slope, which was under major thunderstorms yesterday morning, the storm total is currently 10.45 inches, with an impressive 8.23 inches so far today. Winds have been gusty but otherwise generally unremarkable.

WEATHER UPDATE 18th August 2023: Hurricane Hilary continues to churn northwards just west of central Baja. Current projections have Hilary entering California as a Tropical Storm, the first to do so since 1939, on Sunday 20th. Heavy rain is expected to start on Saturday morning and continue into Monday 21st. Rainfall projections are currently 3+ inches for Idyllwild, and 5-6 inches for the high peaks.

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Despite occasional hotter days, August has generally been pleasantly mild and often cloudy, and certainly considerably cooler than July. That trend will largely continue with cool, cloudy, and wet weather forecast starting Saturday 19th and lasting for at least a week.

Tropical Storm Hilary expected to move north over Baja California is provisionally forecast to bring substantial rainfall to the San Jacinto mountains on 19th-21st August. Between 1-3 inches are forecast for mid elevations, e.g., Idyllwild-Pine Cove, with considerably more possible in the high country. If rainfall is at the upper end of these forecasts, the impacts could be severe, with localized flash flooding at all elevations and potential damage to mountain roads.

Hikers in summer should be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions in the high country. Monsoon (and currently tropical storm) thunderstorms are forecast as a possibility on most days for the next 10-12 days. Lightning, brief but intense precipitation, and rapid temperature drops can occur in the high country even when such storms are not forecast for lower elevations.

In the summer (and on 15th-18th August in particular) hikers should also be prepared for unseasonably hot weather in the high country. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and hydration requirements.

The trail system has been clear of snow since mid July. Daily survey hikes include many different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 11th, 14th, and 16th August, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below.

Water sources such as creeks, pipes, and springs are generally flowing well (see sample photos below and in prior Reports). Consequently in contrast to most recent years I am not reporting water flow details for specific locations at this time. Flow rates are of course now finally dropping, and some ephemeral water sources have recently dried. To date this summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98).

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers should expect to encounter new treefall hazards on trails. Trails are slowly being cleared, largely by volunteers, as described in Trail Conditions below.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri are active on the trail system up to 9300 ft elevation (photo below). Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in the San Jacinto mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, almost always fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 article here for further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July has improved the situation somewhat, but it remains a bumpy drive. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon campground and the South Ridge yellow post sites, all Forest and State camping areas have reopened.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual, as described here.

Due to major road work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road, Humber Park parking area will be completely closed to all traffic for two weeks in October 2023 (exact dates currently unknown). In general be prepared for possible disruption accessing trailheads around Idyllwild throughout August-October due to resurfacing work, expected on lower Saunders Meadow Road in August, North Circle and South Circle drives in August-September, and Fern Valley Road in September-October.

A beautiful young Southern Pacific Rattlesnake, only 18 inches long, at about 6600 ft near Deer Springs Trail, 12th August 2023.

WEATHER

Although the middle of this week (15th-17th) may have above-average temperatures, cool and cloudy weather is again forecast starting around Saturday 19th, with tropical monsoonal conditions likely lasting for a week or more. Spin-off from Tropical Storm Hilary moving north along Baja California on 19th-21st may bring substantial tropical moisture to the San Jacinto mountains. The forecasts currently vary greatly regarding quantity of possible rainfall, depending on the exact track of the tropical storm, but could be at least an inch or two at mid elevations, with 4-7 inches possible in the high country. A south-easterly airflow following passage of the tropical storm may bring in monsoonal thunderstorms for several days continuing to at least 25th August.

Monsoonal thunderstorms on Sunday 13th August produced good rains east and west of the San Jacinto mountains, but the intense cells sadly bypassed Idyllwild and the high country. Saddle Junction (8100 ft) received 0.12 inch, with 0.08 inch at Wellman’s Cienega (9300 ft), but only 0.02 inch was recorded both near San Jacinto Peak (10,700 ft) and in Idyllwild (at 5550 ft).

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Wednesday 16th August 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 63.1°F (17°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 55.8°F (13°C), 52% relative humidity, and a very light ESE breeze sustained at 2 mph gusting to 4.7 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 14th August 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 49.4°F (10°C), with a windchill temperature of 39.8°F (4°C), 70% relative humidity, and a gusty SE wind sustained at 10 mph gusting to 19.6 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 11th August 2023 at 0755 the air temperature was 46.4°F (8°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 42.3°F (6°C), 56% relative humidity, and a SSW breeze sustained at 2 mph gusting to 5.9 mph.

Altocumulus clouds just before sunrise, with cumulonimbus threatening to form distantly to the south, as seen from about Mile 180 of the PCT, 9th August 2023. Tahquitz Peak is in the lower left of the image.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is clear of snow. Despite my optimistic predictions earlier in the summer, no snow patches quite survived on or near the trail system into August, with the last few on the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak finally melting in the last week of July. A couple of narrow icy snow patches remain in the upper reaches of the Snow Creek drainage.

Deer Springs Trail has about 15 significant treefall hazards. Little Round Valley is now completely clear of snow, water is flowing very well there and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route (sample photos in prior Report linked here).

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have some significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another two down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

After three years of neglect by the Forest Service, Willow Creek Trail has finally had a continuous route cleared through by a combination of State Park workers and contractors plus volunteers from several organizations, including the Trail Report. In several areas the whitethorn trimming work has been done poorly and the trail remains scrappy, but at least it is readily passable (photo below). Of the 68 treefall hazards that were across the trail following the winter, about eight remain to be cut for the original course of the trail to be fully restored, but that is unlikely to happen anytime soon, if ever.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming on that section is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly not until August. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed by volunteers from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail has four notable new treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

The PCT is clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains but treefall hazards remain a problem in many places, most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the July 2013 Mountain Fire).

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and functionally no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of treefall hazards for about three miles of its 3.7 miles length. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

Salvia pachyphylla (Blue Sage) in flower, at about 7950 ft on Willow Creek Trail, 9th August 2023. This distinctive sage species is scarce and highly localized in the San Jacinto mountains.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

Route cut with powered tools through whitethorn in early August on the Forest Service section of Willow Creek Trail, 9th August 2023. It isn’t pretty, but it is an improvement.
The small creek in Tahquitz Valley flowing well where it is crossed by the meadow trail, 13th August 2023.
Tahquitz Creek just below its source, where it crosses the PCT at about Mile 177, 13th August 2023. The creek disappears subsurface just downstream of this point as is typical in summer, before reemerging and flowing well through Little Tahquitz Meadow.
The well-known pipe flowing strongly at Round Valley (9100 ft), 9th August 2023. The small Round Valley Creek visible in the upper right also continues to flow steadily.
Above and below, the two well-known northern springs adjacent to the trail at Wellman’s Cienega, 14th August 2023, both flowing strongly for the time of year.

Trail and weather update 9th August 2023

A near-record-long heatwave for the San Jacinto mountains lasting most of July was finally broken by humid, monsoonal conditions starting on Monday 31st. Prior to that, 16 days out of 17 between 14th-30th July had recorded high temperatures at or above 90°F in Idyllwild, with 21 consecutive days at or above 56°F overnight since 11th July (seasonal average high and low temperatures for Idyllwild in July are 85°F and 55°F, respectively).

Pleasant monsoon conditions on 31st July and 1st August produced between 0.22-0.64 inch of rain at mid and upper elevations depending on location (details in Weather section below). Dust-free trails and damp bracken made for a few days of delightful hiking. Humid, cloudy weather on 8th-9th August produced only trace amounts of drizzle, but monsoon rain is possible on any day from 11th-15th.

Following another brief heatwave on 5th-6th August, temperatures are below seasonal for a few days, prior to again heating to above average starting around 15th August.

Hikers in summer should be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions in the high country. Monsoon thunderstorms are always a possibility, although none are currently forecast in the next week or so. Lightning, brief but intense precipitation, and rapid temperature drops can occur in the high country even when such storms are not forecast for lower elevations.

Despite some cooler, cloudy days, hikers should also be prepared for unseasonably hot weather in the high country. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and hydration requirements.

The trail system has been clear of snow since mid July. Daily survey hikes include a variety of routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 4th, 7th, and 9th August, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below.

Water sources such as creeks, pipes, and springs are generally flowing very well (see example photos below). Consequently I am not reporting details for specific locations at this time. Given periodic hot temperatures and record low humidity in recent weeks, this situation will start changing in August. To date this summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98).

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers should expect to encounter new treefall hazards on trails. Trails are slowly being cleared, largely by volunteers, as described in Trail Conditions below.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri are active on the trail system up to 9300 ft elevation. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in the San Jacinto mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, typically fatal for dogs and potentially for humans (see my 2020 article here for further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July has improved the situation somewhat. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon campground and the South Ridge yellow post sites, all Forest and State camping areas have reopened.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual, as described here.

Due to major road work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road, Humber Park parking area will be completely closed to all traffic for two weeks in October 2023 (exact dates currently unknown). In general be prepared for disruption accessing trailheads around Idyllwild throughout August-October due to resurfacing work on North Circle Drive, South Circle Drive, and Fern Valley Road, and on lower Saunders Meadow Road in early August.

Spectacular cumulus and altocumulus clouds presaging a few monsoonal rain drops, as seen looking south-east from Willow Creek Trail, 9th August 2023. Sam Fink Peak is in the foreground on the lower right.

WEATHER

Daytime high temperatures across the entire month of July averaged 5.1°F above seasonal in Idyllwild, a dramatic contrast to the six consecutive months of below average temperatures that started 2023. Almost the entire final three weeks of July were in an unusually protracted heatwave, as described in the introduction above.

A couple of days of pleasant monsoon conditions on 31st July and 1st August produced a total of 0.34 inch of rain in Idyllwild at 5550 ft (0.08 inch on 31st, 0.26 inch on 1st) and 0.22 inch at San Jacinto Peak (0.10 inch on 31st, 0.12 inch on 1st). Combined totals for the two days were 0.64 inch at Wellman’s Cienega (9300 ft) and 0.60 inch at Saddle Junction (8100 ft).

Clear, largely sunny, but generally not hot, weather is forecast for this week. Following the brief two day heatwave on 5th-6th August, temperatures will be near or below seasonal until further significant heating is forecast starting Tuesday 15th August. There is the possibility of significant monsoonal precipitation on Sunday 13th. Fire risk remains very high.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Wednesday 9th August 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 50.9°F (10°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 46.2°F (8°C), 66% relative humidity, and a light WSW wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 8.8 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 7th August 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 55.3°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 48.1°F (9°C), 7% relative humidity, and a gusty WSW wind sustained at 10 mph gusting to 19.5 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 4th August 2023 at 0730 the air temperature was 56.3°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 55.4°F (12°C), 9% relative humidity, and a very light due West breeze sustained at 2 mph gusting to 3.6 mph.

The Desert Divide as seen from 10,300 ft on the Peak Trail, early morning Monday 31st July 2023. An unusually humid summer morning, with cloud both above and below the San Jacinto high country. West of the Divide (right side of the image) was a combination of residual smoke from the Bonny Fire plus humidity, while to the east side the Coachella Valley was filled with a mixture of low cloud and humid haze. Toro Peak, the high point of the Santa Rosa mountains, is in the distant left of the image.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is clear of snow. Despite my optimistic predictions earlier in the summer, no snow patches quite survived on or near the trail system into August, with the last few on the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak finally melting in the last week of July. A couple of narrow icy snow patches remain in the upper reaches of the Snow Creek drainage into the second week of August.

Deer Springs Trail has about 15 significant treefall hazards. Little Round Valley is now completely clear of snow. Water is flowing very well there and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route (sample photos below).

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another two down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

After three years of neglect by the Forest Service, Willow Creek Trail has finally had a continuous route cleared through by a combination of State Park workers and contractors plus volunteers from several organizations, including the Trail Report. In several areas the whitethorn trimming work has been done poorly and the trail remains scrappy, but at least it is readily passable (photo below). Of the 68 treefall hazards that were across the trail following the winter, about eight remain to be cut for the original course of the trail to be fully restored, but that is unlikely to happen anytime soon, if ever.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming on that section is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly not until August. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed by volunteers from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail has four notable new treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

The PCT is clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains but treefall hazards remain a problem in many places, most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the July 2013 Mountain Fire).

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and functionally no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of treefall hazards for about three miles of its 3.7 miles length. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

Route cut with powered tools through whitethorn in recent days on the Forest Service section of Willow Creek Trail, 9th August 2023. It isn’t pretty, but it is an improvement.
Coast Mountain Kingsnake (Lampropeltis multifasciata) at about 7200 ft elevation on Devil’s Slide Trail, 28th July 2023. This juvenile individual was only about 16 inches long. Kingsnakes are non-venomous and not dangerous to humans or dogs, despite the superficial similarity of their coloration to venomous coralsnakes (which do not occur in California).

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

The Wild Fire as seen looking west from near May Valley Road, late afternoon on Thursday 27th July 2023, showing the location of the fire relative to the Idyllwild Transfer Station (lower right of the image). The fire was held that evening at about five acres.
Willow Creek flowing well where it crosses Willow Creek Trail, 28th July 2023.
The well-known pipe flowing strongly at Round Valley (9100 ft), 28th July 2023. The small creek just visible in the upper right also continues to flow.
Deer Springs creek where it flows across the PCT/Deer Springs Trail, 1st August 2023. This location had dried up by early summer in seven of the previous eight years. In 2023 it may well flow all year.
The North Fork of the San Jacinto River where it crosses Deer Springs Trail at about 9400 ft elevation, 1st August 2023.
The creek in Little Round Valley flowing beautifully at the lower (western) end of the valley, 9700 ft elevation, 1st August 2023.
One of the well-known springs adjacent to the trail at Wellman’s Cienega flowing strongly for the time of year, 2nd August 2023.

Weather and trail update 26th July 2023

UPDATE Friday 28th July 2023: The Wild Fire was held at <5 acres yesterday. However the San Jacinto mountains have been impacted today by smoke from the 900+ acre Bonny Fire, burning well to the south-west near Aguanga. Smoke started drifting across our area by about 0800, when I could smell it as I was descending through Round Valley, and a milky sun and smoky skies have continued all afternoon over Idyllwild.

UPDATE Thursday 27th July 2023: a fire started this afternoon immediately south of Idyllwild, in chaparral between the Transfer Station and Grinding Station, off Highway 243. Named the Wild Fire, I posted a short video of the fire activity as of about 1700 this evening (linked here) taken from the top of the Sunset Trail off May Valley Road. Briefly up to three water-dropping helicopters were in attendance, but that was down to one by about 1730. Held at 3-5 acres by dark.

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The San Jacinto mountains are forecast to remain in a protracted heatwave for several more days, although temperatures have ameliorated somewhat from the record highs of last week. At mid elevations (such as Idyllwild) daytime highs will remain several degrees above seasonal every day until 31st July, with overnight lows 8-12°F above seasonal. Temperatures are generally expected to fall to around seasonal for the first four days of August, although overnight lows will remain above average, before another heating trend starts on Saturday 5th August.

A minor monsoonal thunderstorm on Sunday 23rd July produced a little rain – 0.05 inch at San Jacinto Peak and 0.06 inch in Idyllwild – and a pleasantly cool cloudy day with some welcome humidity. Further monsoonal conditions are a possibility for the foreseeable future, currently most likely on or around Monday 31st July.

Fire risk is currently very high. The fifth anniversary of the start of the Cranston Fire is on 25th July. That destructive 13,140 acre fire, started by an arsonist (currently serving a lengthy prison sentence) burned right around the western and southern fringes of Idyllwild, destroying several homes, trails, and well-forested canyons, and to within feet, literally, of Tahquitz Peak fire lookout (photos below).

Hikers should be prepared for unseasonably hot weather in the high country, with temperatures above seasonal at all times of day and at all elevations until 31st July, and then again from 5th August. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and hydration requirements.

Hikers in summer should also be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions in the high country. Monsoon thunderstorms are always a possibility, although storm probabilities are relatively low for the foreseeable future. Lightning, brief but intense precipitation, and rapid temperature drops can occur in the high country even when such storms are not forecast for lower elevations.

The trail system has been clear of snow since mid July. A handful of tiny snow patches remain in the most heavily drifted areas that traditionally melt late, notably the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak.

Daily survey hikes include a variety of routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 21st, 22nd, and 24th July, plus many other trails on intervening days. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below.

Currently perennial creeks, pipes, and springs are flowing well (e.g., see photos below and in the previous Report here), as are most ephemeral springs and creeks. Consequently I am not reporting details for individual water sources at this time. Given recent temperatures and record low humidity, this situation will start changing soon. To date this summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98).

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards on trails. Trails are steadily being cleared, largely by volunteers. Since the snow melted the Trail Report has cleared upper South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. PCT Miles 179-181, eight of nine trees), the informal trail descending from Willow Creek Trail to Laws (10 trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail. Starting in June about 45 trees – from an initial total of 68 – have been cut from Willow Creek Trail by a variety of volunteers and agencies.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri have become very active on the trail system in recent days up to at least 8800 ft elevation. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in these mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, typically fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 article here for further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes have been recorded up to 9300 ft, generally favoring sun-exposed rocky outcrops and slopes.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The partial grading undertaken on 17th July has improved the situation somewhat. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

Due to major road work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road, Humber Park parking area will be completely closed to all traffic, including cyclists and pedestrians, for two weeks in October 2023 (exact dates TBD). In general be prepared for disruption accessing trailheads around Idyllwild throughout August-October due to resurfacing work on North Circle Drive, South Circle Drive, and Fern Valley Road, and on lower Saunders Meadow Road in the first half of August.

WEATHER

July has been a dramatic contrast to the six consecutive months of below average temperatures that started 2023. The most recent heatwave has been unusually protracted, with 11 of the past 12 days recording a daytime high temperature of 90°F or higher in Idyllwild, a trend expected to continue for several more days. A modest cooling starting 31st July will drop temperatures closer to seasonal averages, and may be accompanied by some monsoonal activity. Thunderstorms are currently most likely on Sunday 30th July to Tuesday 1st August.

As is increasingly the trend in the San Jacinto mountains, the overnight “low” temperatures in particular will be as much as 10°F above seasonal especially at mid elevations until the end of July, and are forecast to remain several degrees above average well into August.

The highest elevations have not escaped the heatwave, with temperatures well above average for the month throughout the second half of July, and possibly lasting into early August. The temperature I measured at San Jacinto Peak on Friday 21st July (62.6°F/17.0°C) is the second highest ever known to have been reliably recorded at that location.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 24th July 2023 at 0800 the air temperature was 55.1°F (13°C), with a windchill temperature of 51.1°F (11°C), 41% relative humidity, and a light SW wind sustained at 5 mph gusting to 9.1 mph.

At the Peak on Saturday 22nd July 2023 at 0645 the air temperature was 60.1°F (16°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 55.9°F (13°C), 34% relative humidity, and a steady SSE wind sustained at 10 mph gusting to 16.4 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 21st July 2023 at 0720 the air temperature was 62.6°F (17°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 59.7°F (15°C), 34% relative humidity, and a warm ESE wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 7.6 mph. This air temperature is the second highest ever reliably observed at San Jacinto Peak, although it is 5.0°F below the astonishing all-time high recorded on 12th July 2021.

Trimmed and cleared part of Willow Creek Trail on the State Park section of that route, 21st July 2023. Regrettably the Forest Service section of the same trail remains heavily overgrown and obstructed by treefall hazards, but some progress is being made by volunteer crews.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is now clear of snow. San Jacinto Peak is now functionally clear of snow, with no significant snow patches on the trail routes up to the Peak. Snow cover remains about 5% on the East Ridge of the Peak, but the trail up that flank is functionally clear of snow.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow, but has about 15 significant treefall hazards. Little Round Valley is now completely clear of snow. Water is flowing very well there and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming on that section is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly not until August. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed by volunteers from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow but there are four notable new treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half.

Trail maintenance crews will be working regularly on Willow Creek Trail in late July and early August. The trail remains a slow, messy hike for about two miles due to treefall hazards and whitethorn overgrowth, but thanks to the work of various volunteers and State teams the situation is steadily improving. As of 28th July 2023, about 23 treefall hazards remained across the trail, some of which are large and/or challenging to hike around (or over). There is only one large tree down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 19 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. Only three trees remain down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. The trail section with the most trees down – between the Willow Creek crossing and the State Park boundary – is also overgrown with thick whitethorn. With trail maintenance work, this may improve over the next few weeks. The work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have functionally disappeared by now otherwise. The State Park has done an excellent job of trimming and clearing the trail on their section, with 90% of the whitethorn cut back in recent weeks, and just a few significant overgrown patches remaining closer to Hidden Divide.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

The PCT is clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains. Treefall hazards are a problem in many places but most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the 2013 Mountain Fire).

Trails clear of both snow and treefall hazards include the Peak Trail, Black Mountain Trail, Ernie Maxwell Trail, Devil’s Slide Trail, and the Wellman Trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained by the Trail Report, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow. The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles on this trail (just after the State Park boundary) currently requires considerable caution. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

The well-known pipe flowing strongly at Round Valley (9100 ft), 21st July 2023. The small creek just visible in the upper right also continues to flow well.
The creek in Little Round Valley (9750 ft) flowing very well for the time of year by recent standards, 24th July 2023.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

Memories of the Cranston Fire, late July 2018. Above, the view south from Tahquitz Peak on the morning of 26th July 2018 as the fire burned east through May Valley and above Fleming Ranch. The trees visible just feet in front of me would burn by the next day. Below, Tahquitz Rock and Tahquitz Peak as seen from the west, morning of 27th July 2018.

Weather and trail update 21st July 2023

The San Jacinto mountains remain in a protracted heatwave, along with much of the desert south-west. While local temperatures peaked last weekend – Idyllwild reached 99°F on Saturday 15th July surpassing the previous record high for that date by two degrees – temperatures above seasonal are forecast to persist until the end of July at least. At mid elevations (such as Idyllwild) daytime highs are expected to be several degrees above seasonal every day, with overnight lows generally 10-15°F above seasonal.

The highest elevations are equally impacted. Although an all-time record temperature is not now expected in the high country, by far the longest ever period of days >15°C (59°F) at San Jacinto Peak is likely, almost certainly of more than two weeks and potentially continuing into early August.

Fire risk is very high, as demonstrated by multiple significant fire starts in the grasslands of the nearby lowlands in the past week (described here). From San Jacinto Peak there was thankfully no visible sign of the Rabbit Fire by Monday 17th July, other than remnant smoke obscuring a very hazy Coachella Valley.

Hikers should be prepared for unseasonably hot weather in the high country, with temperatures well above seasonal at all times of day and at all elevations. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and hydration requirements.

Hikers in summer should also always be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions in the high country. Monsoon thunderstorms are a possibility, although storm probabilities are currently low for the foreseeable future. Lightning, brief but intense precipitation, and rapid temperature drops can occur in the high country even when such storms are not forecast for lower elevations.

The trail system is now clear of snow. A few snow patches remain in the most heavily drifted areas that traditionally melt late, notably the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak.

Daily survey hikes include a variety of routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 17th, 19th, and 21st July, plus many other trails on intervening days. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below.

Currently perennial creeks, pipes, and springs are flowing well (e.g., see photos in the previous Report and below), as are most ephemeral springs and creeks. Consequently I am not reporting details for individual water sources at this time. Given recent temperatures and record low humidity, this situation may change soon. To date this summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98).

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards on trails. Trails are steadily being cleared, largely by volunteers. Since the snow melted the Trail Report has cleared upper South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. PCT Miles 179-181, eight of nine trees), the informal trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws (10 trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail. Starting in June 39 trees – from an initial total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail by various volunteer and state teams.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri are now present on the trail system up to at least 8800 ft elevation, although observations so far this year have been infrequent. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in these mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, typically fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my 2020 article here for further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes have been recorded up to 9300 ft, generally favoring sun-exposed rocky outcrops and slopes.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) was in its poorest condition for at least a decade this spring. The mediocre grading job undertaken on 17th July improved the situation, but the Road remains lumpy and a high clearance vehicle is still recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on 4th June. Black Mountain fire lookout will reopen for the season on Sunday 23rd July following (partial) grading of Black Mountain Road.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

Due to major road work at the uppermost end of Fern Valley Road, Humber Park parking area will be completely closed to all traffic, including cyclists and pedestrians, for two weeks in October (exact dates TBD). In general be prepared for disruption accessing trailheads around Idyllwild throughout August-October due to resurfacing work on North Circle Drive, South Circle Drive, and Fern Valley Road.

WEATHER

Six consecutive months of below average temperatures to start 2023 ended abruptly at the beginning of July, and this month has seen two significant heatwaves already. The most recent of these is continuing at present and has been unusually protracted. At the elevation of Idyllwild daytime highs are forecast to average several degrees above seasonal every day into the last week of July. As is increasingly the trend in the San Jacinto mountains, the overnight “low” temperatures in particular will be as much as 15°F above seasonal especially at mid elevations.

The highest elevations will not be spared, with temperatures well above average for July for at least two, possibly three weeks, likely into early August. At San Jacinto Peak temperatures at or above 59°F (15°C) are predicted for 12-15 days; most years experience fewer than five days that warm at the Peak all summer.

There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts, with no sign of monsoonal rains reaching the San Jacinto mountains before August. Despite the wet winter and cool first half of the year, vegetation moisture levels have rapidly dropped below average (per data in NWS San Diego video linked here). The fire danger locally is very high.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Friday 21st July 2023 at 0720 the air temperature was 62.6°F (17°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 59.7°F (15°C), 34% relative humidity, and a warm ESE wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 7.6 mph.

At the Peak on Wednesday 19th July 2023 at 0645 the air temperature was 55.9°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 52.7°F (12°C), 46% relative humidity, and a light WSW wind sustained at 3 mph gusting to 7.0 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 17th July 2023 at 0710 the air temperature was 57.4°F (14°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 52.2°F (11°C), 54% relative humidity, and a pleasantly cool SSE wind sustained at 10 mph gusting to 19.2 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 14th July 2023 at 0705 the air temperature was 58.5°F (15°C), with no observable windchill, 34% relative humidity, and completely calm wind conditions (extremely rare at the Peak).

At the Peak on Friday 7th July 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 52.7°F (12°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 46.3°F (8°C), 4.8% relative humidity, and a light but steady due West wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 14.7 mph. This average relative humidity measurement (which briefly dropped as low as 4.2%) is the lowest ever reliably recorded at San Jacinto Peak, breaking the record of 5% set just two days earlier. Prior to 2023, I had only recorded RH as low as 7% on three occasions.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is now clear of snow. Snow cover averages about 5% around San Jacinto Peak, but with no significant snow patches on the trail routes up to the Peak. Snow cover remains about 15% on the East Ridge of the Peak, but the trail up that flank is functionally clear of snow.

Deer Springs Trail is now clear of snow, but has about 15 significant treefall hazards. Little Round Valley is now clear of snow. Water is flowing very well there and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Peak Trail is now clear of snow. The East Ridge Trail remains partly obscured under about 15% snow cover, but the remaining snow is heavily drifted and initially melted very unevenly forming “sun cups” (photo in prior Report linked here).

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail (above the trailhead at the top of South Ridge Road) were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming on that section is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly not until August. Eleven of 13 downed trees were removed by volunteers from the middle section of South Ridge Trail (between May Valley Road and the top of South Ridge Road) on 15th July.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow but there are four notable new treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) half.

Willow Creek Trail was a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles due to treefall hazards and whitethorn overgrowth, but thanks to the work of volunteers the situation has slowly improved since May. As of 21st July 2023, about 29 treefall hazards remained across the trail, many of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There is only one large tree down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 25 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. Only three trees remain down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. The trail section with the most (18) trees down – between the Willow Creek crossing and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The considerable amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have functionally disappeared by now otherwise. The State Park has done an excellent job of trimming and clearing the trail on their section, with 90% of the whitethorn cut back in recent weeks, with just a few significant overgrown patches remaining up high near the Divide.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

The PCT is now clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains. Treefall hazards are a problem in many places but most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the 2013 Mountain Fire).

Trails clear of both snow and treefall hazards include Black Mountain Trail, Ernie Maxwell Trail, Devil’s Slide Trail, and the Wellman Trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained by the Trail Report, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at lat/long N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow. The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) currently requires considerable caution. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

The well-known northernmost spring at Wellman’s Cienega (9300 ft) flowing steadily, 17th July 2023.
The North Fork of the San Jacinto River flowing strongly across Deer Springs Trail at about 9400 ft, 19th July 2023.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and 2023 has been no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

Two views of the sign at Summit Junction, where the Peak and Deer Springs trails meet at about 10,520 ft elevation. Above, on 17th July 2023, and below, about two weeks earlier on 4th July 2023. What snow remained has largely melted in the latest heatwave. This distribution of snow had been typical since mid June, with largely clear areas punctuated by patchy icy snow drifts. This five feet tall sign was completely buried for more than three months between February and May earlier this year.
Lemon Lily (Lilium parryi) in flower at 5500 ft elevation on private property in Idyllwild, 14th July 2023, In the high country Lemon Lillies are still largely a few weeks away from flowering this year.

Trail update 14th July 2023

Saturday 15th July marks the 10th anniversary of the start of the Mountain Fire, one of the most impactful events in the modern history of the San Jacinto mountains, and certainly the most damaging fire to property, the forest, the local economy, and the trail system in living memory. About 27,500 acres and more than 20 buildings burned. Although some assessments have suggested the fire may have been beneficial to forest ecology (linked here) such positive impacts were confined to a relatively small area at the highest elevations where the fire burned. Elsewhere the fire was damaging to the forest, notably along the Desert Divide where the trails and surrounding vegetation will never be the same again. Many trails were shut for years, most require much more maintenance now than before the fire, and some remain functionally abandoned to this day.

A heatwave, more severe than the brief one at the beginning of July, is forecast to build and peak this weekend. Temperatures well above seasonal are forecast for all elevations on 14th-18th at least, and with near-record heat in the high country on 15th-17th. Above-average temperatures are expected to persist for 7-10 days. well into late July. Fire risk will be very high.

Hikers should be prepared for unseasonably hot weather at all elevations, with temperatures far above seasonal and early morning temperatures in particular expected to be about 15°F above average this weekend. Give considerable extra thought to route choice, start times, clothing, sun protection, and water requirements.

With the exception of heavily drifted areas that traditionally melt late (notably the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak) the trail system is now clear of snow. The few snow patches that remain from this past remarkable winter will soon largely disappear in the forthcoming heatwave.

Daily survey hikes include a variety of routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 7th, 10th, and 14th July, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days. A sample of recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak is given in the Weather section below.

Currently perennial creeks, pipes, and springs are flowing well (e.g., see photos in the previous Report), as are most ephemeral springs and creeks, although some of the latter are starting to dry. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998 (following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98).

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards on trails. Trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. In recent weeks the Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. PCT Miles 179-181, eight trees), the informal trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws (10 trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail. In June 33 trees – from a total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail by volunteers, steadily making progress on the condition of that challenging trail (impacted by the 2013 Mountain Fire).

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes Crotalus (oreganus) helleri are now present on the trail system up to at least 8800 ft elevation. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in these mountains is predominantly neurotoxic, typically fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see my article here for some further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes have been recorded to 9300 ft, usually favoring sun-exposed slopes.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) is in its poorest condition for at least a decade, but grading is scheduled to start in mid July. Until the road is graded 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on 4th June. Black Mountain fire lookout is currently not expected to reopen until late July, once grading of the road is completed.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

Looking south from San Jacinto Peak, early morning on Monday 10th July 2023. The north flank of Jean Peak (left side of the image), always one of the last locations to retain late season snow cover in the San Jacinto mountains, has finally cleared. It is uncertain what produced the distinct smoke band obvious at about 10.000 ft elevation to the south-west, possibly the Frog Fire near Temecula a couple of days earlier.

WEATHER

Six consecutive months of below average temperatures to start 2023 have ended abruptly. Following a minor heatwave in the first few days of July, a more severe heatwave is forecast for this week, starting on 14th and expected to last at least a week. Temperatures will peak well above seasonal averages on 14th-18th, with daytime highs approaching 95°F in Idyllwild at the weekend (15th-16th July) before cooling slightly next week, but expected to remain above seasonal. As is increasingly the trend in the San Jacinto mountains, the overnight “low” temperatures in particular will be as much as 15°F above seasonal at mid elevations.

The highest elevations will not be spared, with temperatures well above average for July for at least a week. Near-record temperatures are currently forecast around the highest peaks on 15th-18th July. At San Jacinto Peak temperatures above 60°F (15.5°C) are predicted for several consecutive days; most years there are only 1-3 days that warm at the Peak all summer.

There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts. Despite the wet winter and cool first half of the year, vegetation moisture levels have already dropped below average. The fire danger in the San Jacinto mountains is currently categorized as high to very high.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Friday 14th July 2023 at 0705 the air temperature was 58.5°F (15°C), with no observable windchill, 34% relative humidity, and completely calm wind conditions (which are extremely rare at the Peak).

At the Peak on Monday 10th July 2023 at 0720 the air temperature was 49.6°F (10°C), with a windchill temperature of 40.1°F (5°C), 18% relative humidity, and a stiff SSW wind sustained at 15 mph gusting to 30.1 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 7th July 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 52.7°F (12°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 46.3°F (8°C), 4.8% relative humidity, and a light but steady due West wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 14.7 mph. This average relative humidity measurement (which briefly dropped as low as 4.2%) is the lowest ever reliably recorded at San Jacinto Peak, breaking a record set just two days earlier (see below). Prior to 2023, I had only recorded RH as low as 7% on three occasions.

At the Peak on Wednesday 5th July 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 55.8°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 53.2°F (12°C), 5% relative humidity, and a light but steady SW wind sustained at 5 mph gusting to 6.3 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is now functionally clear of snow. Traction devices are no longer required.

Snow cover averages about 5% around San Jacinto Peak. With careful route-finding – such as ascending the Peak via southern rather than eastern routes – no snow hiking is required.

Deer Springs Trail is now clear of snow, but has about 15 significant treefall hazards. Little Round Valley is now functionally clear of snow (a handful of minor drifts remain). Water is flowing very well there and in all of the springs and creeks along the Deer Springs Trail route.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows have significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has a couple of tiny snow patches remaining on its southernmost sheltered 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction [surveyed 10th July], but is otherwise clear.

The Peak Trail has extremely limited patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide to 9900 ft is clear. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is <10% and the trail is obvious. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft are clear. The East Ridge Trail remains partly obscured under about 25% snow cover, but the remaining snow is heavily drifted and has melted very unevenly forming “sun cups” (photo in prior Report linked here).

Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on South Ridge Trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly in July.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow but there are four notable new treefall hazards in the State Park (upper) section.

Willow Creek Trail remains been a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles due to treefall hazards and whitethorn overgrowth, but thanks to the work of volunteers the situation has improved in recent weeks. There are plans in place to cut the remaining trees on the Forest Service section in the next month or so, weather permitting. As of early July 2023, about 35 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 25 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. Another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the trail with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The considerable amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

The PCT is now clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains. Treefall hazards are a problem in many places but most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. Large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175 (a section severely burned in the 2013 Mountain Fire).

Trails clear of both snow and treefall hazards include Black Mountain Trail, Ernie Maxwell Trail, and Devil’s Slide Trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn, which obscures dozens of downed trees, that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained by the Trail Report, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (local Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction, 0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning (trailhead at N 33.7796, W 116.6590). The route descends largely following established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek about 0.2 mile upstream from the site of the historic Laws Camp (the remains of which were destroyed by the 2013 Mountain Fire and subsequent flood and treefall damage). The 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter were removed in June-July 2023. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious (but still subtle) as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is now clear of snow. The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) currently requires considerable caution. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

The sign at Summit Junction, where the Peak and Deer Springs trails meet at about 10,520 ft elevation, 4th July 2023. This distribution of snow has been typical of the past few weeks, with largely clear areas punctuated by patchy icy snow drifts. This five feet tall sign was completely buried for more than three months between February and May earlier this year.

Trail update 6th July 2023

A heatwave in the first few days of July produced above seasonal temperatures at mid elevations, and well-above average temperatures at upper elevations. Daytime highs reached 80°F (27°C) at 8600 ft elevation in Long Valley for three consecutive days on 1st-3rd July, where there is considerable weather influence from the Coachella Valley.

After a brief cooling this week to temperatures a little below average for July, a more severe heatwave is forecast for next week, with temperatures well above seasonal at all elevations, and near-record heat in the high country. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak are given below in the Weather section.

With the exception of heavily drifted areas that traditionally melt late (notably the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak) the trail system is now clear of snow. Spikes are no longer required. Melting has been dramatic in Little Round Valley in the past week, and it is now largely clear (photos below). For readers interested in snow depths recorded in the San Jacinto mountains during this past remarkable winter, they were last listed in a recent Report available here.

Daily survey hikes include a variety of routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 4th and 5th July, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days.

Currently perennial creeks, pipes, and springs are flowing well (e.g., see photos below), as are most ephemeral springs and creeks, although some of the latter are starting to dry. This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards on trails. Trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. In recent weeks the Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. PCT Miles 179-181, eight trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail and the informal use trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws. In June 33 trees – from a total of about 68 – have been cut from Willow Creek Trail by volunteers, steadily making progress on the condition of that challenging trail.

Be rattlesnake aware. Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus [oreganus] helleri) are now widespread on the trail system up to at least 8800 ft elevation. Above about 5000 ft, the venom of this rattlesnake species in these mountains is largely neurotoxic, typically fatal for dogs and sometimes for humans (see article linked here for further information). Devil’s Slide and lower Deer Springs trails, Suicide Rock, around Strawberry Cienega, and trails near Tahquitz Peak are common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes occur up to at least 9300 ft, often favoring warm, sun-exposed slopes.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on 4th June. Black Mountain fire lookout is currently not expected to reopen until the road is graded, possibly in July.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

The creek in Little Round Valley where it crosses Deer Spring Trail at 9700 ft elevation, 5th July 2023. This is the strongest snowmelt flow in this creek in July for nearly 20 years.

WEATHER

Six delightful months of below average temperatures to start 2023 ended abruptly this past weekend with a brief heatwave, with temperatures, especially overnight lows, well above seasonal even for July.

After a brief cooling this week to temperatures a little below average for the month, a more severe heatwave is forecast for next week. Temperatures will be well above average for July at all elevations, with overnight “low” temperatures in particular at least 10°F above seasonal at mid elevations. The high country will not be spared, with near-record temperatures currently forecast around the highest peaks for 12th-17th July.

There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts. The fire danger in the San Jacinto mountains is currently categorized as high or very high.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Wednesday 5th July 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 55.8°F (13°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 53.2°F (12°C), 5% relative humidity, and a light but steady SW wind sustained at 5 mph gusting to 6.3 mph. This relative humidity measurement of only 5% is the lowest ever reliably recorded at San Jacinto Peak.

At the Peak on Tuesday 4th July 2023 at 0655 the air temperature was 47.1°F (8°C), with a windchill temperature of 36.0°F (2°C), 16% relative humidity, and a harsh WSW wind sustained at 20 mph gusting to 30.2 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 26th June 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 29.3°F (-2°C), 37% relative humidity, and a very fresh SW wind sustained at 16 mph gusting to 27.5 mph.

“Sun cups” in the deep icy snow cover remaining on the East Ridge of San Jacinto Peak at about 10,550 ft, 4th July 2023. Where snow of sufficient depth has surface inconsistencies caused by an interaction of drifting, wind, and temperature, differential melting causes melting in this remarkably uneven pattern, leading to challenging hiking.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

The trail system is now functionally clear of snow. Traction devices are no longer required.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow up to Little Round Valley (just a handful of easily traversed patches remain). Snow cover is now <10% through Little Round Valley following very rapid melting in the past week. The designated camping areas are now clear. Above Little Round Valley only a handful of drifted snow patches remain, but they have obvious tracks up and over, or they can be hiked around.

Snow cover averages about 20% around San Jacinto Peak, ranging from <10% on the south facing slopes to 40% on the north and east slopes. With careful route-finding – such as ascending the Peak via southern rather than eastern routes – spikes are not required.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are clear of snow, but with significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has a couple of small snow patches remaining on its southernmost sheltered 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but is otherwise clear.

The Peak Trail has very limited patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide to 9900 ft is clear and the track now follows the trail route. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is <10% and the trail is obvious but in a couple of places diverts around some icy drifts. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft are functionally clear, with just a couple of minor snow patches to traverse. The East Ridge Trail remains partly obscured under about 40% snow cover, but the remaining snow is heavily drifted and has melted very unevenly (forming “sun cups”, photo above).

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow both north and south of Tahquitz Peak. Fourteen treefall hazards from this past winter on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, possibly in July.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow. There is significant water flowing in the trail in places in its uppermost mile, and there are four notable treefall hazards.

Willow Creek Trail remains been a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles due to treefall hazards and whitethorn overgrowth, but thanks to the work of volunteers the situation has improved in recent weeks. As of the end of June 2023, about 35 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 25 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. Another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the trail with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The considerable amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail between late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to 85+ since July 2021. Trail trimming is undertaken regularly. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

Overall, the PCT is now functionally clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains. Treefall hazards are a problem in many places but most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted 106 between Miles 169-175 in June 2023. Many large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175.

Trails clear of both snow and treefall hazards include Black Mountain Trail, Ernie Maxwell Trail, and Devil’s Slide Trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails have been abandoned and no longer exist. They are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained by the Trail Report, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. Of 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter, ten were removed in June and the one remaining large trunk is easy to pass. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Seven Pines Trail is now functionally clear of snow. The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will remain a tricky crossing into July. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without considerable experience of hiking this trail.

Above and below, the same location at the upper end of Little Round Valley at 9800 ft elevation, photographed one month apart. Above, on 5th July 2023 with average snow cover at about 5%, and below, on 5th June 2023, with snow cover about 90% and icy drifts 3-4 feet deep.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you very much for your support.

The sign at Summit Junction, where the Peak and Deer Springs trails meet at about 10,520 ft elevation, 4th July 2023. This distribution of snow has been typical of the past few weeks, with large clear areas punctuated by icy snow drifts several feet deep. This five feet tall sign was completely buried for more than three months between February and May earlier this year.
Above and below, the two well-known northern springs at Wellman’s Cienega both flowing strongly, 4th July 2023.
Alpine Shootingstar (Dodecatheon alpinum) in full flower at the appropriately named Shooting Star Spring, about 9500 ft elevation on Deer Springs Trail, 5th July 2023. In common with most high country plants in the San Jacinto mountains in 2023, flowering is about one month later than has been typical in recent years.

Trail update 28th June 2023

Localized, patchy snow remains in parts of the high country, but with the exception of a handful of sheltered areas that traditionally melt late (see Trail Conditions below), the trail system is largely clear of snow. Hikers may find that carrying spikes continues to be useful especially if hiking off-trail above about 9800 ft elevation, but with judicious route-finding spikes are not generally required on-trail.

With so little snow remaining I am no longer reporting snow depths. For readers interested in the maximum snow depths recorded in the San Jacinto mountains during this past remarkable winter, they are listed in a recent Report (available here). Images of the winter snow at its most impressive are available in various prior Reports (perhaps best at the beginning and end of March, linked here and here, respectively).

The cool temperatures that have been the dominant theme of the first six months of 2023 in the San Jacinto mountains will soon be a distant but pleasant memory. At the end of this week hot summer temperatures finally arrive, and what snow remains will of course quickly disappear. A sample of my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak are given below in the Weather section.

Our daily hikes include multiple routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, most recently on 23rd and 26th June, plus many other trails on intervening days. With the snow rapidly disappearing, increasingly the focus of some volunteers, including myself, is on trail clearance and maintenance work, sorely needed after a wild winter.

Currently all perennial waters, pipes, springs, etc. are flowing well, as are most ephemeral springs and creeks (although a few are starting to dry up). This summer has seen the most water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and where still snowy, under) the trails. A tolerance for wet feet, or appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant, is strongly recommended. Be cautious of the few remaining fragile snow bridges over water.

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers will encounter new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. Trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. Miles 179-181, eight trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail and the informal use trail down to Laws, in recent weeks. Kevin Cadieux led a PCTA crew that cleared 24 trees south from Fobes Saddle along the PCT in late May. In June 33 trees – from a total of about 68 – have been cut from Willow Creek Trail, steadily making progress on the condition of that especially challenging trail.

Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) have been seen on the trail system up to at least 8000 ft elevation since late May. The lower two-thirds of Devil’s Slide Trail, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around Tahquitz Peak are three common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes are possible anywhere up to about 9300 ft. Rattlesnakes will get much more active with hot weather in the next week or so.

Adult Southern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus [oreganus] helleri) at about 5500 ft elevation, Apple Canyon Road, 20th June 2023.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on Sunday 4th June. Access via South Ridge Trail is clear from both directions, the PCT/Chinquapin Flat to the north, or South Ridge Road (5S11) to the south, but note the latter remains closed to vehicle traffic. Black Mountain fire lookout is not expected to reopen until the road is graded, in July at the earliest.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all other Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

Ramona Trail remains closed due to prescribed burning operations on Thomas Mountain.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

Summer solstice sunrise, as seen from the summit of Antsell Rock, 21st June 2023. Sam Fink Peak is to the left of the image.

WEATHER

With only one or two exceptions, daily daytime high temperatures have been 5-20°F below seasonal averages for most of June, while overnight lows have been closer to, but still generally below, seasonal. The overnight low temperature in Idyllwild of 36°F (2°C) on Friday 23rd June came close to the historical record low for that date and location.

This cool trend is ending, with temperatures rapidly accelerating from below seasonal on Wednesday 28th June to above average – and hot summer temperatures for the first time this year – by Friday 30th. In three days daytime high temperatures may climb by 20°F, and overnight low temperatures by about 15°F. After a very hot first few days of July, temperatures will fall to about seasonal, before potentially rising again in the second week of the month. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 26th June 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 29.3°F (-2°C), 37% relative humidity, and a very fresh SW wind sustained at 16 mph gusting to 27.5 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 23rd June 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 38.6°F (3°C), with a windchill temperature of 26.6°F (-3°C), 14% relative humidity, and a cool due West wind sustained at 14 mph gusting to 19.9 mph.

At the Peak on Sunday 18th June 2023 at 0645 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.2°F (-2°C), 52% relative humidity, and a stiff WSW wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 28.4 mph.

Spectacular altocumulus cloud over the San Jacinto mountains, 21st June 2023. The top of the summit block of Antsell Rock is in the foreground on the far right, and Little Thomas Mountain is in the middle distance in the lower left. The band of smoke at about 9000 ft elevation is from the prescribed burn undertaken by USFS on Thomas Mountain for much of the second half of June.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain partly snow-covered above about 9700 ft. Trails below that elevation are now generally clear of snow, but elevations between 8800-9800 ft retain some snow patches in the most sheltered areas, rarely more than about 10% snow cover. Some hikers may find that spikes remain useful in a handful of high country areas, notably through Little Round Valley and on East Ridge, mainly for descending, but that they are no longer required.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow from the Highway 243 trailhead to near the Marion Mountain Trail junction, and functionally clear up to Little Round Valley (just a few easily traversed patches remain). Snow cover remains 40% and both very patchy but heavily drifted through Little Round Valley, but there is now a predominant boot track that largely follows the trail route. The designated camping areas are now largely clear. Above Little Round Valley snow cover averages about 10% and following the actual trail route has become much easier; the most significant drifted snow patches have obvious tracks up and over, or they can be hiked around.

Snow cover averages about 30% around San Jacinto Peak, ranging from only 10% on the south facing slopes to 90% on the north and east slopes. With careful route-finding – such as ascending the Peak via southern rather than eastern routes – spikes are not generally required.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are clear of snow, but with significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has a very patchy 10% snow cover on its southernmost forested 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but is clear thereafter.

The Peak Trail has very limited patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide to 9900 ft is functionally clear and the track now follows the trail route. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is about 10% and the predominant boot track diverts around some major icy drifts away from the trail route in places. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft are functionally clear, with just a couple of extended snow patches to traverse. The East Ridge Trail boot track goes over largely continuous and very unevenly melted snow.

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow both north and south of Tahquitz Peak. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and is not expected to reopen until graded, probably in July.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow to the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. There is significant water flowing in the trail in places in its uppermost mile, and there are half-a-dozen notable treefall hazards.

Willow Creek Trail remains been a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles, but thanks to hard-working volunteers the situation has improved substantially in recent weeks. As of the end of June 2023, about 35 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 25 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. Another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the trail with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The considerable amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail in late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to at least 85 since July 2021. Trail trimming is undertaken regularly. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

Overall, the PCT is now functionally clear of snow throughout the San Jacinto mountains. Treefall hazards are a problem in many places but most notably between Apache Peak and Red Tahquitz, where I counted at least 96 between Miles 169-175 in May and June 2023. Many large downed trees make for especially slow-going around Miles 172-175.

Trails clear of both snow and treefall hazards include Black Mountain Trail, Ernie Maxwell Trail, and Devil’s Slide Trail.

Seven Pines Trail is now functionally clear of snow (a few patches remain in the uppermost 0.25 mile above 8500 ft). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will remain a tricky crossing into July. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without significant experience of hiking this trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails no longer exist and are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, well maintained by the Trail Report, and avoids the challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some Idyllwild hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. Of 11 trees down on the King Trail after this winter, ten were removed in June and the remaining large one is easy to pass. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with very careful route-finding. My May 2023 survey counted just over 100 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure for the first 0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious as it descends towards Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

So-called “watermelon snow” on the East Ridge boot track at 10,600 ft elevation, June 2023. The pinkish coloration is caused by the blooming of an algae (Chlamydomonas nivalis) that lives harmlessly in the snow.
A very different type of pink blooming. Huge mats of beautiful flowering Shaggy-haired alum-root (Heuchera hirsutissima) currently adorn the dry, rocky slopes of the Desert Divide. These were photographed on the east flank of Antsell Rock, 20th June 2023.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

I descended the summit block of Antsell Rock on 21st June by an unconventional route (that was actually easier class 3 than the well-known option) and in the process passed this General Land Office survey marker (photos above and below). I was impressed by both the 1917 date and the $250 fine for illegal removal (about $6000 in today’s money!). Of course in 1917 there were no easy trails to access the Desert Divide with the PCT still 50+ years away. By that time the GLO administered grazing rights on federal lands, eventually merging with other agencies to form the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and these markers did not typically serve the same function as the US Geological Survey benchmarks that are often sought out by hikers. It seemed solid enough to last the next 100+ years.
Flowers of Panamint liveforever (Dudleya saxosa) at 5100 ft on Spitler Peak Trail, 25th June 2023. The green leaves in the background are of Rock Monkeyflower.
Parry’s (or Blue) Larkspur (Delphinium parryi parryi) at 5600 ft on Spitler Peak Trail, 25th June 2023.
Diplacus brevipes (widethroat yellow monkeyflower) flowering at 5500 ft on Spitler Peak Trail, 25th June 2023.
White Sage (Salvia apiana) with huge flower spikes at 5200 ft on Spitler Peak Trail, 25th June 2023.

Trail and snow update 20th June 2023

With relatively little snow remaining – and what’s left now being very patchy – I am no longer reporting snow depths. However there is snow remaining in the high country, in places enough to be potentially hazardous. Trails above about 9700 ft (west side) and 9900 ft (east side) remain partly or mostly obscured by drifted icy snow. Trails as low as about 8900 ft elevation (on both flanks) have more limited patchy snow cover, mainly in sheltered areas that traditionally melt late. Cautious navigation remains valuable everywhere.

For readers interested in the maximum snow depths recorded at various locations in the San Jacinto mountains this past winter, they are listed in a recent past Report (available here). Images of this past winter’s snow at its most impressive are available in various prior Reports (perhaps best at the beginning and end of March 2023, linked here and here, respectively).

In keeping with the theme of 2023 to date, temperatures in June have been pleasantly cool and generally well below seasonal. They are finally forecast to rise, quite abruptly, to about seasonal for the month from Sunday 25th onwards, and then to well above average by the end of the month. Melting of remaining snow will accelerate markedly.

Our daily hikes include various routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, plus many other trails on intervening days. With the snow rapidly disappearing, increasingly the focus of some volunteers, including myself, is on trail clearance and maintenance work.

Spikes are no longer required for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the main east and west side routes, nor for other high country peaks. On Sunday 18th June for example, barebooting was relatively straightforward up to the Peak via Marion Mountain and upper Deer Springs trails, descending the Peak, Wellman, and Devil’s Slide trails back to Idyllwild (photos below). Some hikers will find that spikes remain useful in certain high country areas, notably through Little Round Valley and on East Ridge, mainly for descending, but that they are no longer required.

Currently all possible seasonal and perennial waters, pipes, springs, etc. are flowing well. I have not seen so much water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky stream and river crossings. Sections of Deer Springs Trail in particular will likely remain ephemeral streams for the next month or so. Appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant is strongly recommended. Be cautious of the few remaining fragile snow bridges over water.

Given the intensity of this past winter, hikers should anticipate encountering new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. Trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), the PCT between Saddle and Annie’s junctions (approx. Miles 179-181, eight trees), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail and the use trail to Laws, in recent weeks. Forest Service volunteers cut trees from the Ernie Maxwell and Devil’s Slide trails in late May. Kevin Cadieux led a PCTA crew that cleared 24 trees south from Fobes Saddle along the PCT in late May. Twenty small trees – from a total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail on 8th June, not yet significantly improving the condition of that especially challenging trail, but progress is being made.

Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) have been seen on the trail system up to at least 7500 ft elevation since late May. The lower two-thirds of Devil’s Slide Trail, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around Tahquitz Peak are three common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes are possible anywhere up to at least 9300 ft. Rattlesnakes will get much more active with warmer weather expected in late June.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on Sunday 4th June. Safe access is now possible via South Ridge Trail from both directions, the PCT/Chinquapin Flat to the north (crossing a couple of tiny snow patches), or South Ridge Road (5S11) to the south, but note the latter remains closed to vehicle traffic. Black Mountain fire lookout will not reopen until the road is graded, which is not expected until July.

Black Mountain Road (4S01) is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. Forest Service roads Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11) remain closed to vehicles. Other than Dark Canyon, all other Forest and State campgrounds have now reopened.

The annual maintenance closure of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is scheduled for 7th-31st August 2023, a month earlier than usual.

WEATHER

With only one or two exceptions, daily daytime high temperatures have been 5-20°F below seasonal averages in the first three weeks of June, while overnight lows have been closer to, but still generally below, seasonal. This cool trend remains for much of this week, with temperatures finally rising to about seasonal for June from Sunday 25th, and then continuing to rise to above average at all elevations – to hot summer temperatures for the first time this year – for the final couple of days of the month. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Sunday 18th June 2023 at 0645 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.2°F (-2°C), 52% relative humidity, and a stiff WSW wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 28.4 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 12th June 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 46.0°F (8°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 43.8°F (7°C), 48% relative humidity, and effectively calm conditions with the lightest WSW breeze gusting to 1.2 mph.

At the Peak on Saturday 10th June 2023 at 0655 the air temperature was 40.5°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.9°F (-1°C), 19% relative humidity, and a moderate SSW wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 14.4 mph.

The North Fork of the San Jacinto River flowing strongly where it crosses (and partially flows along) Deer Springs Trail at about 9400 ft elevation, 18th June 2023.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain partly or largely snow-covered above about 9800 ft. Trails below about 9800 ft are now generally clear of snow, but elevations between 8800-9800 ft locally retain some snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically only 10-20% snow cover.

Both the Ernie Maxwell Trail and Devil’s Slide Trail are completely clear of snow.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are functionally clear of snow, with just a few patches remaining in the most sheltered locations, but with significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has 30% snow cover on its southernmost 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but is clear thereafter. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places for a few tenths of a mile around Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail has very limited patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide to 9900 ft is functionally clear and the track largely follows the trail route. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is about 40% and the boot track only partly follows the trail. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft average only 10% snow cover and are clearing rapidly. The predominant boot track now follows the normal trail route around to Summit Junction. The East Ridge boot track remains obvious but goes over almost continuous and very lumpy snow.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow from the Highway 243 trailhead to near the Marion Mountain Trail junction. From there snow cover averages only about 10% up to Little Round Valley, with many lengthy clear sections. Snow cover remains 60% and heavily drifted through Little Round Valley, and there is no predominant boot track that accurately follows the trail route. Most of the designated camping areas are now largely clear. Above Little Round Valley snow cover averages about 40%, but with an extended central portion under 50% snow cover, and conversely the uppermost exposed switchbacks now less than 20% snow covered. Following the actual trail route is becoming easier. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially through and above Little Round Valley. Spikes can be useful (but are no longer required), especially for descending.

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak on the southern approach from South Ridge Road, and functionally clear of snow on the northern approach from Chinquapin Flat/PCT. The latter 0.4 mile section has two tiny snow patches remaining, but with excellent tracks with easy steps to follow through the snow and do not require spikes. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and should reopen once graded, expected in the next month.

Willow Creek Trail is frankly a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles. At least 48 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over) [multiple surveys in June 2023]. There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 38 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. At least another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the trail with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The huge amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow to the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. There is significant water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, and there are half-a-dozen notable treefall hazards.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail in late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to at least 85 since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are not problematic for hikers, but the trail is impassable to stock.

Black Mountain Trail is clear of both snow and treefall hazards.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow to 8500 ft elevation (about three miles up from the trailhead). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will remain a tricky crossing into July. Patchy snow cover between 8500 ft and the junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT (at about 8700 ft) averages about 10%. The Trail Report has “adopted” Seven Pines Trail as a priority for maintenance work as the trail has had a disproportionate number of lost hiker rescues in the past decade. Since November 2021, 67 downed trees have been removed and almost the entire trail thoroughly trimmed and cleared. Nevertheless Seven Pines remains a genuine wilderness trail unlike the relatively wide, bare, and obvious routes of, for example, Devil’s Slide or Marion Mountain trails. Cautious navigation remains essential for those without significant experience of hiking this trail.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails no longer exist and are so heavily overgrown with dense whitethorn that I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, relatively well maintained, and avoids all of the very challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some local hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. Of ten trees down on the King Trail [surveyed 11th June 2023], three have been removed, but none of the remaining seven are significant hazards. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with careful route-finding. My autumn 2022 survey counted 97 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure 0.1-0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious near Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

Deer Springs Trail in upper Little Round Valley at about 9800 ft elevation. Above, on 18th June 2023, and the same view less than a month earlier on 22nd May 2023, when the sign was buried by the snow drift in the foreground.
Annie’s Junction, where the southern end of the Wellman Trail meets the PCT, at about 9070 ft elevation. Above, on 18th June 2023, and below the same view less than a month earlier on 22nd May 2023, when continuous snow cover averaged 2-4 feet deep.

Trail and snow update 13th June 2023

The high country trails continue to be a mix of icy snow drifts to hike around or up-and-over and cleared patches. Temperatures so far in June have been pleasantly cool and generally well below seasonal, but are forecast to rise to about average for the month starting Wednesday 21st.

Humber Park, including Devil’s Slide trailhead, will be closed on 12th-14th June due to pesticide spraying work. The area will be closed to both parking and hiking access, according to the closure order posted at Humber this past weekend. [I confirmed that Humber Park had reopened on the evening of Wednesday 14th June.]

Our daily survey hikes include various routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, typically South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails weekly, and many other trails on intervening days. With the snow rapidly disappearing increasingly the focus of volunteers, including myself, is on trail clearance and maintenance work.

Spikes are no longer required for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the main east and west side routes, nor for other high country peaks, especially given the firmer snow in recent cool weather. On Saturday 10th and Monday 12th June for example, barebooting was relatively straightforward to and from the Peak on upper Deer Springs and Peak trails, respectively, but the previous week spikes had been useful descending to about 9900 ft. Some hikers will find that spikes remain useful in the high country, mainly for descending, but they are no longer required.

Trails above about 9700 ft (west side) and 9900 ft (east side) remain largely, or at least partly, obscured by drifted icy snow. Trails as low as about 8700 ft elevation (on both flanks) have increasingly patchy snow cover, especially on more northerly-facing slopes. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Recently I have had several inquiries regarding water availability for campers in the high country. Given the typically dry conditions of the past decade, such questions are understandable. Currently there is water everywhere, and all possible seasonal and perennial waters, pipes, springs, etc. are flowing well. Personally I have not seen so much water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

Details of average snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting, with the greatest snow depth recorded this winter for comparison.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky stream and river crossings. Lengthy sections of Deer Springs Trail in particular will likely remain ephemeral streams for the next month or so. Appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant is strongly recommended. Be cautious of fragile snow bridges over water.

Hikers should anticipate encountering new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While this is partly a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, exacerbated by wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change.

Despite many new fallen trees in the recent remarkable winter, trails are steadily being cleared by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails (14 and 38 trees, respectively), and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail and the use trail to Laws, in recent weeks. Forest Service volunteers cut trees from the Ernie Maxwell and Devil’s Slide trails in late May. Kevin Cadieux led a PCTA crew that cleared 24 trees south from Fobes Saddle along the PCT in late May. Twenty small trees – from a total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail on 8th June, not yet significantly improving the condition of that especially challenging trail, but at least progress is being made.

Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) have been seen on the trail system up to at least 7500 ft elevation since late May. The lower two-thirds of Devil’s Slide Trail, near Strawberry Cienega, and trails around Tahquitz Peak are three common locations for sightings, but rattlesnakes are possible anywhere up to at least 9300 ft.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on Sunday 4th June. Safe access is now possible via South Ridge Trail from both directions, the PCT/Chinquapin Flat to the north (crossing a couple of tiny snow patches), or South Ridge Road (5S11) to the south, but note the latter remains closed to vehicle traffic. Black Mountain fire lookout will not reopen until Black Mountain Road (4S01) is graded, possibly in June.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11). Santa Rosa Road (7S02) reopened in early June. Black Mountain Road (4S01) is nominally closed but has effectively reopened. The gate 1.7 miles from the highway was vandalized repeatedly in mid May and the Forest Service decided not to attempt to lock it again. The road is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded – expected later in June – 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended.

The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May. Forest Service campgrounds at Fern Basin, Marion Mountain and Boulder Basin reopened in early June, but Dark Canyon campground remains closed at this time.

Willow Creek where it crosses the Willow Creek Trail, 11th June 2023. Barely recognizable and almost resembling a small river these days, the Creek is about four times wider and with perhaps ten times the water flow compared to most of the past decade.

WEATHER

Daytime high temperatures were generally 10-20°F below seasonal averages in the first half of June, while overnight lows were closer to, but still slightly below, seasonal. This temperature pattern is changing, with warming during the course of this week, and then stronger warming in the following week with temperatures finally about seasonal for June from Wednesday 21st onwards. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 12th June 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 46.0°F (8°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 43.8°F (7°C), 48% relative humidity, and effectively calm conditions with the lightest WSW breeze gusting to 1.2 mph.

At the Peak on Saturday 10th June 2023 at 0655 the air temperature was 40.5°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.9°F (-1°C), 19% relative humidity, and a moderate SSW wind sustained at 8 mph gusting to 14.4 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 5th June 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 41.1°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 27.5°F (-2°C), 32% relative humidity, and a sharp SE wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 27.4 mph.

Johnson Meadow looking wonderfully verdant, as seen from 5100 ft elevation on Bonita Vista Road, 9th June 2023, with Showy Penstemon (Penstemon spectabilis) in the foreground.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain partly or largely snow-covered above about 9800 ft. Trails below about 8800 ft are now generally clear of snow. Elevations between 8800-9800 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average only 10-20% snow cover.

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. Spikes remain potentially useful for three relatively short sections. The trail is clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section, I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 in May. Snow cover is about 10% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 177.7 (Chinquapin Flat). Some hikers may find spikes useful on this section although the boot track is well-defined and relatively flat. Snow cover is very patchy and averages <10% between Miles 177.7 to Saddle Junction (about Mile 179). The south-facing slope of Miles 179-180 is clear of snow, but from Mile 180 (elevation 8900 ft) to about Mile 181 just past Annie’s Junction snow cover is 70%. Miles 181-185 are clear, then snow cover increases (about 50%) from Mile 185. Spikes can be useful on the snowy parts of this section, but are not required at this time depending upon personal preference and experience. Snow cover averages 30% along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). The track does now largely follow the PCT route. Miles 185.5-187.5 average about 30% snow cover, Miles 187.6-188.5 (a south-facing slope) are clear, Miles 188.5-190 have 50% snow cover, and finally Miles 190-191 are now largely clear. Spikes can be useful for Fuller Ridge but they are no longer required, again depending on comfort level hiking on patchy icy snow.

Both the Ernie Maxwell Trail and Devil’s Slide Trail are completely clear of snow.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are functionally clear of snow, with just a few patches remaining in the most sheltered locations, but significant treefall hazards throughout. There are seven treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, four major trees down across Willow Creek Trail between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and another four down on the trail south from Saddle Junction to Chinquapin Flat.

The Wellman Trail has 70% snow cover on its southernmost 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but is functionally clear thereafter. The portion of the track with most snow cover does not always accurately follow the trail route. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places for a few tenths of a mile around Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail has increasingly patchy snow. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide has only 10% snow cover for about a mile to 9900 ft and the track largely follows the trail route. For about 0.6 mile between 9900-10,100 ft snow cover is about 90% and the boot track only partly follows the trail. The ascending switchbacks above 10,100 ft average 40% snow cover and are clearing rapidly. The predominant boot track now follows the normal trail route around to Summit Junction. The East Ridge boot track remains obvious but goes over continuous and very lumpy snow.

There is a well-traveled boot track through 50% snow cover following the trail route up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide. Round Valley itself is largely clear of snow.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow from the Highway 243 trailhead to near the Marion Mountain Trail junction. The 0.6 mile from there to the Fuller Ridge Trail junction averages 40% snow cover. Once Deer Springs Trail leaves the PCT at the Fuller Ridge Trail junction, snow cover averages only about 10% up to Little Round Valley, with many lengthy clear sections. Snow cover remains 70% and heavily drifted through Little Round Valley, and there is no predominant boot track that accurately follows the trail route. Some of the designated camping areas are now largely clear. Above Little Round Valley snow cover averages about 50%, but with an extended central portion under 70% snow cover, and conversely the uppermost exposed switchbacks now less than 20% snow covered. Following the actual trail route is becoming easier, while the various winter season boot tracks have now largely melted out and are invisible and/or of little use. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially through and above Little Round Valley. Spikes can be useful (but are no longer required), especially for descending.

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak on the southern approach from South Ridge Road, and functionally clear of snow on the northern approach from Chinquapin Flat/PCT. The latter 0.4 mile section has three tiny snow patches remaining, but all have excellent tracks with easy steps to follow through the snow and do not require spikes. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and will reopen once graded, possibly later in June.

Willow Creek Trail [surveyed 11th June] is frankly a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles. At least 48 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 38 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. At least another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the section with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also disappearing under thick whitethorn. The huge amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

Marion Mountain Trail is now clear of snow to the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. There is significant water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, along with half-a-dozen notable treefall hazards.

The Trail Report removed all 38 treefall hazards, plus many branches and other debris, from Spitler Peak Trail in late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to at least 85 since July 2021. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places; these are minor for hikers, but the trail is not passable to stock.

Black Mountain Trail is clear of both snow and treefall hazards. Boulder Basin campground reopened on 8th June.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow to 8300 ft elevation (about 2.5 miles up from the trailhead). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This may remain a tricky crossing into July. Patchy snow cover steadily increases between 8300 ft and the junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT (at about 8700 ft), but overall averages about 20%. Some drifts obscure key switchbacks on the upper trail, and navigation, always a little tricky on this trail at the best of times, will be challenging for those not thoroughly familiar with this route. Of seven new treefall hazards on the trail below the snow line, six were removed by the Trail Report in late May, and a good start was made on clearing the trail of branches and other debris. Dark Canyon Road – the access for the Seven Pines trailhead – remains closed to vehicles for the foreseeable future.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails no longer exist and are so heavily overgrown I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them (regardless of how much you may trust a certain app). An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct, relatively well maintained, and avoids all of the very challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some local hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. Of ten trees down on the King Trail [surveyed 11th June 2023], three have been removed, but none of the remaining seven are significant hazards. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with careful route-finding. My autumn 2022 survey counted 97 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure 0.1-0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious near Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Little Round Valley at 9800 ft elevation, 10th June 2023. The mix of cleared areas and icy snow drifts often still 1-3 feet deep is typical of most of the high country above 9700 ft at this time.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 10th-12th June 2023. The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting (and of rain on snow in some March storms), there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 12-18 inches, many large clear patches developing and snow cover about 50%, but drifts 2-4 feet deep remain in places, especially on East Ridge (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 20 inches, about 70% snow cover, drifts 2-4 feet deep in places.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 9 inches, ranging from 0-25 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 8 inches, snow cover 40% here (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 0 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

Willow Creek flowing strongly where both the “King Trail” and Caramba Trail meet the Creek just upstream from the site of Laws Camp, 11th June 2023.
Rock Monkeyflower (Diplacus calycinus) at about 5200 ft elevation, Spitler Peak Trail, 8th June 2023.
Cane Cholla (Cylindropuntia californica var. parkeri) in flower, at 5300 ft elevation on Spitler Peak Trail, 8th June 2023.
Variable Checkerspot (Euphydryas chalcedona) on Chamise, 5200 ft elevation, Bonita Vista Road, 9th June 2023.
Two views of Saddle Junction, taken only two months apart. Above, completely clear of snow on 1st June 2023, and below, on 31st March 2023, under an average of four feet of snow but with deeper drifts in places.

Trail and snow update 6th June 2023

UPDATE Sunday 11th June 2023: Humber Park, including the Devil’s Slide trailhead, will be closed on 12th-14th June for pesticide spraying operations. The area will be closed to both parking and hiking according to the closure order posted at Humber this weekend.

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The steady melt of the winter snowpack continues, and the high country trails are increasingly a mix of cleared patches and large icy drifts to go up-and-over. Most notable is the recent clearing of one of the most popular hiking trails, the short spur of South Ridge Trail up to Tahquitz Peak from Chinquapin Flat/PCT Mile 177.7. Other than a seasonably warm weekend on 3rd-4th, temperatures so far in June have been below seasonal, and are forecast to remain pleasantly cool until mid month.

Recently I have had several inquiries regarding water availability for campers in the high country. Given the typically dry conditions of the past decade, such questions are understandable. Currently there is water everywhere, and all possible seasonal and perennial waters, pipes, springs, etc. are flowing well. Personally I have not seen so much water on the mountain since 1998, following the great El Niño winter of 1997/98.

Our daily survey hikes include different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week, South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails weekly, and other trails on intervening days. With the snow rapidly disappearing, increasingly I am spending time on trail clearance and maintenance work.

On multiple hikes in recent days I have not required spikes for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the main east and west side routes, especially on firmer snow given the cooler weather. On Monday 5th June for example, barebooting was relatively straightforward to the Peak on Deer Springs Trail, but spikes were useful descending back down to Little Round Valley to about 9800 ft. Broadly speaking spikes continue to be useful in the high country, and some hikers may even prefer trail crampons.

Trails above about 9700 ft remain largely obscured by heavily drifted snow (lower in places). Trails as low as about 8700 ft elevation retain some patchy snow cover, especially on north-facing slopes. The reliable and obvious boot tracks of April and early May have become very scrappy with the widespread but patchy melting of recent weeks. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting, alongside the greatest snow depth recorded this past winter for comparison.

Spikes remain useful for the foreseeable future above about 9000 ft (potentially lower in places) but they are no longer be required on most routes, and depending on your comfort level hiking on icy or softening snow, and the quality of footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move slowly upwards with melting of snow, but spikes will remain useful for many hikers throughout June at least in parts of the high country. Spikes tend to be helpful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming less valuable, but remain potentially useful above about 9000 ft. They can be most useful off-trail in the high country on colder mornings. They are no longer required on the short section of South Ridge Trail across the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky stream and river crossings. Lengthy sections of Deer Springs Trail in particular will basically remain ephemeral streams for the next month or two. Appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant is strongly recommended. Be especially cautious of the many fragile and potentially dangerous snow bridges across water.

Hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While this is partly a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change.

Trails are steadily being cleared of treefall hazards by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared 14 and 38 trees from South Ridge and Spitler Peak trails, respectively, and largely cleared Seven Pines Trail, all since mid May. Forest Service volunteers recently cut trees from the Ernie Maxwell and Devil’s Slide trails. Kevin Cadieux led a PCTA crew that cleared 24 trees south from Fobes Saddle along the PCT last week. Twenty small trees – from a total of about 68 – were cut from Willow Creek Trail on 8th June, sadly not significantly improving the condition of that challenging trail, but at least progress is being made.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near freezing in the high country, and below freezing when considering wind chill effects, at least on some days (see below for my most recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

Be rattlesnake aware. Despite comments in this Report regarding snow and cool temperatures, Southern Pacific Rattlesnakes (Crotalus helleri) have been seen on the trail system up to at least 7500 ft elevation since late May. The lower two-thirds of Devil’s Slide Trail, near Strawberry Cienega, and around Tahquitz Peak are typically locations with many sightings, but rattlesnakes are possible anywhere up to at least 9300 ft once temperatures ameliorate. Anyone interested in learning more about the unique rattlesnakes of the San Jacinto mountains, and the relationship that my dog and I have with them, may want to read an article I wrote in July 2020 (link here).

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopened for the season on Sunday 4th June. Safe access is now possible via South Ridge Trail from both directions, the PCT/Chinquapin Flat to the north, or South Ridge Road (5S11) to the south, but note the latter remains closed to vehicle traffic. Black Mountain fire lookout will not reopen until Black Mountain Road (4S01) is graded, expected to be later in June.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Dark Canyon Road (4S02) and South Ridge Road (5S11). Santa Rosa Road (7S02) reopened in early June. The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May. Forest Service campgrounds at Fern Basin and Marion Mountain reopened at the beginning of June, but Boulder Basin and Dark Canyon campgrounds remain closed at this time. Black Mountain Road (4S01) is nominally closed but has effectively reopened. The gate 1.7 miles from the highway was vandalized repeatedly in mid May and the Forest Service decided not to attempt to lock it again. The road is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and until the road is graded – expected later in June – 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended. The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April.

The largest remaining snow patch (of three) on the north side approach to Tahquitz Peak on South Ridge Trail coming from Chinquapin Flat, 3rd June 2023. Very well-formed steps make it straightforward to traverse these patches without spikes. As always, if in any doubt, turn around.

WEATHER

Temperatures generally below seasonal averages have been a consistent theme for most of 2023 so far, and this is forecast to continue in the first half of June. Daytime high temperatures will be around 10-15°F below average, but even cooler on 6th-7th and 10th-12th, while overnight lows will be nearer, but still slightly below, seasonal, into the middle of the month.

There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts, but as we experienced in the last week of May, some days over the next two weeks may be partly cloudy at mid elevations on the western side of the mountain range as the lifted marine layer hugs the hillsides at around 5000 ft elevation, occasionally moving higher, and always bringing the possibility of misty drizzle.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 5th June 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 41.1°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 27.5°F (-2°C), 32% relative humidity, and a sharp SE wind sustained at 17 mph gusting to 27.4 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 1st June 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 33.3°F (1°C), 38% relative humidity, and a light ESE wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 8.8 mph.

At the Peak on Tuesday 30th May 2023 at 0840 the air temperature was 38.5°F (4°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.0°F (-2°C), 18% relative humidity, and a fresh due South wind sustained at 7 mph gusting to 13.4 mph.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain largely or completely snow-covered above about 9700 ft. Trails below about 8700 ft are now generally clear of snow. Elevations between 8700-9700 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 10-50% snow cover.

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. Spikes remain useful for three relatively short sections. The trail is clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section, I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 in May. Snow cover is about 30% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 177.7 (Chinquapin Flat). Some hikers may find spikes useful on this section although the boot track is well-defined and relatively flat. Snow cover is increasingly patchy and averages only about 10% between Miles 177.7 to Saddle Junction (about Mile 179). The south-facing slope of Miles 179-180 is clear of snow, but from Mile 180 (elevation 8900 ft) to about Mile 181 just past Annie’s Junction snow cover is 80% and the track can be hard to follow in places. Miles 181-184 are clear, then snow cover increases (>50%) from Mile 184.5. Spikes can be useful on the snowy parts of this section, but are not required at this time for hikers experienced with snow travel. Snow cover averages 30% along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). The track does now largely follow the PCT route. Miles 185.5-187.5 average about 40% snow cover, Miles 187.6-188.5 (a south-facing slope) are clear, Miles 188.5-190 have 70% snow cover, and finally Miles 190-191 are now largely clear. Spikes are useful for Fuller Ridge but they are no longer required, depending on personal comfort level hiking on patchy icy snow.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow to Saddle Junction. Spikes are not required.

Trails around the Skunk Cabbage and Tahquitz area meadows are functionally clear of snow, with just a few patches remaining in the most sheltered locations. There are seven significant treefall hazards across the trails between Little Tahquitz Meadow and Chinquapin Flat, with a few others elsewhere around the meadows.

The Wellman Trail has largely continuous snow cover on its southern 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but snow cover is a very patchy 20% thereafter. The southern portion of the track (with continuous snow cover) does not always accurately follow the trail route, but the remainder of the track is now largely true to the trail route. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places for a few tenths of a mile around Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail route remains largely snow-covered. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide has 20% snow cover for about a mile to 9900 ft and the track largely follows the trail route, but thereafter snow cover is about 90%. Around 9900-10,100 ft the predominant boot track does not follow the trail route. Close to San Jacinto Peak the predominant boot track ascends directly up the East Ridge over continuous lumpy snow cover. There are now some lighlty-traveled tracks to follow through the snow on the uppermost switchbacks of the typical Peak Trail route.

There is a well-traveled boot track through 60% snow cover largely following the trail route up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide. Extensive clear patches are opening up in and around Round Valley, though few are actually in the designated camping areas.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to near the Marion Mountain Trail junction. The 0.6 mile from there to the Fuller Ridge Trail junction averages 60% snow cover. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, the trail is clear for the first mile (to about 9300 ft elevation). Thereafter snow cover averages about 40% up to Little Round Valley, with a mix of extensive clear patches and short sections of near-continuous snow. Snow cover remains 80% and heavily drifted through Little Round Valley, and there is no predominant boot track that follows the actual trail route. Some of the designated camping areas now have cleared areas suitable for a tent or two. Above Little Round Valley snow cover averages about 70%, with the lowest exposed section at 60%, then an extended central portion at 90% snow cover, and the uppermost exposed switchbacks now only about 40% snow covered. Following the actual trail route is not easy, and the various snow season boot tracks have now largely melted out and are of limited use. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially through and above Little Round Valley. Spikes can be useful (but are no longer essential) especially for descending.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky as it is swollen with snowmelt.

South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak on the southern approach from South Ridge Road, and functionally clear of snow on the northern approach from Chinquapin Flat/PCT. The latter 0.4 mile section has a handful of tiny snow patches remaining, but all have excellent tracks with easy steps to follow through the snow and do not require spikes (photo above). Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report in May, and trail trimming is undertaken regularly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic and will reopen once graded, possibly later in June.

Marion Mountain Trail is now clear of snow to the PCT, a couple of tiny patches remain at the top. There is a great deal of water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, along with half-a-dozen notable treefall hazards.

The Trail Report removed 38 treefall hazards, plus many branches and other debris, from Spitler Peak Trail in late May and early June this year, bringing the total removed to at least 85 in the past two years. The trail is now clear of treefall hazards. Several minor washouts from this past winter in the upper switchbacks have significantly impacted the tread in places. The trail is not passable to horses.

Black Mountain Trail is functionally clear of snow. A few minor patches remain on the climber’s trail route from the top of Black Mountain Trail to near the fire lookout. Boulder Basin campground remains closed at this time.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow to 8200 ft elevation (about 2.5 miles up from the trailhead). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will likely remain a tricky crossing into July. Patchy snow cover steadily increases between 8200 ft and the junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT (at about 8700 ft), but overall averages about 40%. Many of the drifts obscure key sections and switchbacks on the upper trail, and navigation will be challenging for those not thoroughly familiar with this trail. There is a very lightly traveled and poorly defined boot track through the snow patches. Of seven new treefall hazards down on the clear parts of the trail, six were removed by the Trail Report in late May, and a good start was made on clearing the trail of branches and other debris. Dark Canyon Road – the access for the Seven Pines trailhead – remains closed to vehicles.

The Caramba Trail from near Reeds Meadow through Laws Camp and on to Caramba, and the Cedar Trail from Willow Creek Trail to Laws, are euphemistically described by the Forest Service as “not maintained”. In reality both trails no longer exist and are so heavily overgrown I strongly advise hikers do not attempt to follow them. An informal use trail to Laws is much more direct and avoids all of the very challenging bushwhacking of the unmaintained trails (some local hikers dubbed it the “King Trail” when I established the route in 2019). It leaves the Willow Creek Trail exactly 1.0 mile from Saddle Junction (0.46 mile from the Skunk Cabbage turning), descending largely on established deer trails for 1.2 miles, meeting Willow Creek just upstream from the old Laws Camp. From Laws east to Caramba the route of the original Caramba Trail has been well-cairned by myself and others and can largely be followed with careful route-finding. My autumn 2022 survey counted 97 trees down on this 2.1 miles of trail. It is especially obscure 0.1-0.3 mile east of the Willow Creek crossing, becoming more obvious near Caramba. Very cautious navigation is advised throughout the area.

Willow Creek Trail is a slow, messy hike for a couple of miles. At least 48 treefall hazards remain across the trail, most of which are large and some are challenging to hike around (or over). There are four large trees down between Saddle Junction and the Skunk Cabbage Meadow junction, and then a further 38 trees down on the next 1.5 mile Forest Service section until the State Park boundary. At least another six trees are down on the State Park section of trail up to Hidden Divide. Some of the section with the most trees down – between Willow Creek and the State Park boundary – is also rapidly disappearing under thick whitethorn. The huge amount of work that Bill Rhoads and I undertook to clear whitethorn along this trail in 2020 was not completely in vain and parts of the trail would have largely disappeared by now otherwise, but the whitethorn does make some treefall hazards more complicated to negotiate.

The section of Skyline Trail that falls within the State Park jurisdiction above 5800 ft elevation reopened on 19th May following a closure of nearly four months due to supposedly “hazardous” snow conditions. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) Skyline Trail is now functionally clear of snow.

Having been completely buried for nearly four months, the sign at the upper end of Little Round Valley (at 9800 ft) is starting to fully emerge from its snow drift, 5th June 2023. This is a fairly typical view of the high country at this time, a mix of bare patches and large icy snow drifts.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 1st June (east side) and 5th June (west side). The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting (and of rain on snow in some March storms), there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 20 inches, with many large clear patches developing, but some drifts 5-6 feet deep remain in places (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 24 inches, about 80% snow cover, drifts up to 5 feet deep in places.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 12 inches, ranging from 0-30 inches (70-75 inches on both 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 18 inches, very patchy and heavily drifted here (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 0 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has its unique challenges, and a remarkable 2023 is clearly no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

Two rather different views of Saddle Junction, only two months apart. Above, completely clear of snow on 1st June 2023, and below, on 31st March 2023, under an average of four feet of snow but with deeper drifts in places.
The Peak Trail at 9800 ft elevation just north of Wellman Divide. Above, on 1st June 2023, with an average of only 25% snow cover at this elevation. Below, the same view just one month earlier on 4th May 2023. The PCT hiker “Tumbleweed” in the lower image gives a sense of scale, traversing the slope as I assisted her down from San Jacinto Peak in what proved to be the last snow storm of winter 2022/23.
The junction of Fuller Ridge Trail with Deer Springs Trail at PCT Mile 185.5. Above, on 5th June 2023, and below, roughly the same view about seven weeks earlier on 14th April 2023, with the State Park sign fully buried in deep snow, and the tree-mounted signs only a foot or so above the snow (the signs are 6-7 feet above ground in the upper image). Also note in the upper image how both trails are currently flowing as minor seasonal streams.

Snow and trail update 1st June 2023

UPDATE Saturday 3rd June: the short section of South Ridge Trail on the north side of Tahquitz Peak is now functionally clear of snow. The four tiny patches that remain between Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak have excellent tracks across them and no spikes or other traction devices are required (photo below).

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Cooler weather in the last week of May only slowed snowmelt rates slightly, and a return to warm weather forecast for early June will accelerate melting once again. Nevertheless snow conditions in early June will continue to be more reminiscent of early or mid April in a “normal” year of the past decade.

Hiking different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week facilitates assessment of snow conditions on the trail system around the high country including the highest sections of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains (Miles 179-181 and 183-185.5). Our daily hikes in between mainly assess other parts of the PCT, side trails and alternates, including, for example, South Ridge Trail every week. Our hike on Tuesday 30th May included all of Seven Pines Trail and a lengthy section of Fuller Ridge Trail, as well as all of upper Deer Springs Trail.

On multiple hikes in recent days I did not require spikes for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the main east and west side routes, with firmer snow given the cooler weather. However on two recent hikes spikes were especially useful for descending the western side via Deer Springs Trail, down to about 8700 ft. Overall spikes continue to be useful in the high country, and some hikers may prefer trail crampons.

Trails above about 8900 ft remain largely obscured by light to moderate snow (lower in places). Trails as low as 8000 ft elevation can have shallow but increasingly patchy snow cover, especially on north-facing slopes. The reliable boot tracks of April and early May have become increasingly scrappy with the widespread but patchy melting of recent weeks. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note however that snow depth itself is very rarely indicative of the difficulty (or ease) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep is often much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of angled ice.

Spikes remain very useful for the foreseeable future above about 9000 ft (lower in places) but they may no longer be required depending upon the specifics of the route, the hiker’s comfort level hiking on icy snow, plus the quality of footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move slowly upwards with melting of snow over the next few weeks, but spikes will remain useful throughout June at least in parts of the high country. Spikes tend to be especially helpful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming less valuable, but remain potentially useful everywhere above about 9000 ft. Some hikers may find them especially valuable anywhere off-trail in the high country on colder mornings.

Snowshoes can be useful above about 9000 ft for off-trail travel only for the next few weeks when the conditions are warm enough, for example to reach the >10,000 ft peaks that are not connected by well-traveled tracks, on the warmest afternoons.

With so much snowmelt, there is a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky stream and river crossings. Lengthy sections of Deer Springs Trail in particular will basically remain ephemeral streams for the next month or two. Appropriate footwear that is at least highly water resistant is strongly recommended. Be especially cautious of the many fragile and potentially dangerous snow bridges across water (e.g., see photo below).

Hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus some effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change.

Trails are steadily being cleared of treefall hazards by volunteers. The Trail Report has cleared South Ridge Trail, and largely cleared Spitler Peak and Seven Pines trails, in the past two weeks. Forest Service volunteers have cut trees from Ernie Maxwell and Devil’s Slide trails since mid May.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near freezing in the high country, and below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my most recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads. The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April. The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May, but Forest Service campgrounds remain closed at this time. Black Mountain Road (4S01) has effectively reopened. The gate 1.7 miles from the highway was vandalized in mid May and the Forest Service have decided to leave it open. The road is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended.

Tahquitz Peak fire lookout reopens for the season on Sunday 4th June. Safe access is now possible from both directions on South Ridge Trail. Black Mountain fire lookout will not reopen until Black Mountain Road (4S01) is graded, which may be later this month.

The last remaining significant snow patch across the trail on the north side of Tahquitz Peak is only a few yards wide and has excellent steps to follow, 3rd June 2023. Spikes are no longer required.

WEATHER

The last week of May has been pleasantly cool, with temperatures below seasonal and more typical of April, especially at mid elevations. This will continue until 2nd June, after which temperatures will warm markedly. Next weekend (3rd-4th June) will be feel especially warm, but is forecast to be actually only slightly above seasonal for the month, before temperatures drop slightly again the following week. Next week the daytime highs will be near or even somewhat below average, while overnight lows will be at or slightly above seasonal. There is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Thursday 1st June 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 33.3°F (1°C), 38% relative humidity, and a light ESE wind sustained at 4 mph gusting to 8.8 mph.

At the Peak on Tuesday 30th May 2023 at 0840 the air temperature was 38.5°F (4°C), with a windchill temperature of 28.0°F (-2°C), 18% relative humidity, and a fresh due South wind sustained at 7 mph gusting to 13.4 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 26th May 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 35.4°F (2°C), with a windchill temperature of 24.6°F (-4°C), 12% relative humidity, and a steady due West wind sustained at 10 mph gusting to 13.6 mph.

Deer Springs Trail where it crosses the North Fork of the San Jacinto River at about 9400 ft elevation, 30th May 2023. Currently the main boot track (which accurately follows the trail route here) crosses this obviously perilous snow bridge. The bridge was firm ice early on the morning of Tuesday 30th May, but will undoubtedly collapse in the next few days.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. However three relatively short sections remain extensively snow-covered.

The trail is clear from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable. I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 earlier in May. Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) and other nearby chutes have been clear of snow for several weeks.

Snow cover is about 50% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 177.7 (Chinquapin Flat), but with a well traveled track through the extended snow patches and with very little consequential terrain. Some hikers will find that spikes can be useful on this section. The posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route in places.

Snow cover is increasingly patchy and averages only about 30% between Miles 177.7 to Saddle Junction (about Mile 179). The south-facing slope of Miles 179-180 is clear of snow, but from Mile 180 (elevation 8900 ft) to about Mile 181 just past Annie’s Junction snow cover is 90% and the track can be hard to follow in places. Miles 181-184 are functionally clear of snow, and snow cover then becomes extensive (>90%) from Mile 184.5. Spikes can be useful on the snowy parts of this section, but are not required at this time for hikers experienced with snow travel.

There is a boot track through an average of 30% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). The track does now largely follow the PCT route. Miles 185.5-187.5 average about 40% snow cover, Miles 187.6-188.5 (mainly south-facing slope) is largely clear, Miles 188.5-190 has >80% snow cover, and Miles 190-191 are now largely clear. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the comfort level to hike on icy snow on some angled terrain, and spikes are recommended. Some hikers may still prefer to use trail crampons.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is now clear of snow

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter should be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

The North Fork of the San Jacinto River where it flows over the PCT on Fuller Ridge Trail (about PCT Mile 186.1), 30th May 2023. The stone steps of the PCT are visible to the upper left, partly under a snow drift. Avoiding wet feet here is possible, but not easy.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain largely (or in places completely) snow-covered above about 8900 ft. This elevation will continue to rise steadily with melting into June. Trails below about 8000 ft are now generally clear of snow. Elevations between 8000-8900 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 10-50% snow cover. Details of the PCT, its boot tracks, and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow to Saddle Junction. Spikes are not required.

The Wellman Trail has largely continuous snow cover on its southern 0.4 mile north from Annie’s Junction, but snow cover is a very patchy 20% thereafter. The southern portion of the track (with continuous snow cover) does not always accurately follow the trail route, but the remainder of the track is now largely true to the trail route. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places for a few tenths of a mile around Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail route remains largely snow-covered. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide has 35% rapidly thinning snow cover for about a mile to 9900 ft and the track largely follows the trail route, but thereafter snow cover is >90%. Around 9900-10,100 ft the boot track does not follow the trail route. Close to San Jacinto Peak the predominant boot track ascends directly up the East Ridge (not up the switchbacks of the upper Peak Trail) over continuous lumpy snow cover.

There is a well-traveled boot track through 70% snow cover largely following the trail route up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide. Extensive clear patches are opening up in and around Round Valley, though few are actually in the designated camping areas.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The trail is then functionally clear of snow (only a few limited patches) for about 1.5 miles north of Strawberry Junction until just south of the Marion Mountain Trail junction. Thereafter the predominant boot track generally follows the true trail route through largely continuous snow until Fuller Ridge. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, snow cover is about 20% for the first 0.6 mile (to about 9200 ft elevation). Thereafter snow cover averages 60% up to Little Round Valley, but with both extensive clear patches and some lengthy sections of continuous snow. There is now one predominant boot track that almost entirely follows the actual trail route. Snow cover remains >90% and heavily drifted through Little Round Valley. Above Little Round Valley there are multiple boot tracks through the largely continuous icy snow. Most ascend steeply and directly towards San Jacinto Peak, and while one of them does now approximate to the true trail route, it is not the predominant track. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially above Little Round Valley, and spikes are recommended, especially for descending.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky as it is swollen with snowmelt.

South Ridge Trail is completely clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report on 16th May, and trail trimming is undertaken weekly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic, but is clear of snow and is tentatively scheduled to reopen in the first half of June.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow for its lower 1.5 miles to 7500 ft. Snow then starts quite abruptly and from that elevation the softening snow cover averages 30% but with a mix of long clear sections and some lengthy snow patches. There is a great deal of water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, and there are many increasingly fragile snow bridges. The boot track is not always easy to follow in its uppermost section as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes, especially for descending parts of the upper half.

The Trail Report removed about 30 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail on 25th May, bringing the total removed to just under 100 in the past two years. Half-a-dozen minor downed trees remain but none are significant obstructions. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail is functionally clear of snow. A few minor patches remain on the climber’s trail route from the top of Black Mountain Trail to near the fire lookout. Boulder Basin campground remains closed at this time.

Seven Pines Trail is clear of snow to 8200 ft elevation (about 2.5 miles up from the trailhead). The crossing of the very swollen North Fork of the San Jacinto River at 1.5 miles (just after the State Park boundary) is currently perilous and not recommended for most hikers. This will likely remain a dangerous crossing into July. Patchy snow cover steadily increases between 8200 ft and the junction with Deer Springs Trail/PCT (at about 8700 ft), but overall averages about 40%. Many of the drifts obscure key sections and switchbacks on the upper trail, and navigation will be challenging for those not extremely familiar with this trail. There is a very lightly traveled and poorly defined boot track through the snow patches. Of seven new treefall hazards down on the clear parts of the trail, six were removed by the Trail Report on 30th May, and a good start was made on clearing the trail of branches and other debris.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is clear of snow, but remains closed to vehicles.

The section of Skyline Trail that falls within the State Park jurisdiction above 5800 ft elevation reopened on 19th May following a closure of nearly four months due to supposedly “hazardous” snow conditions. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) Skyline Trail is now functionally clear of snow.

The creek in the middle section of Little Round Valley at about 9750 ft elevation, 30th May 2023. This year for only the third time in the past decade, this lovely little creek will flow all year.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 1st June (east side) and 29th May (west side) 2023. The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting (and of rain on snow in some March storms), there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 26 inches, with clear patches developing, but drifts up to 4 feet deep remain in places (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 28 inches, with large clear patches but also many drifts up to 5 feet deep.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 12 inches, ranging from 0-30 inches (70-75 inches on both 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 18 inches, very patchy and heavily drifted here (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 0 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

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The North Fork of the San Jacinto River, swollen with raging whitewater snowmelt, just upstream from where it crosses Seven Pines Trail at about 7000 ft elevation, 30th May 2023. There are a couple of crossing options just upstream from the typical trail crossing, but they are not for the faint-hearted.
The junction of Fuller Ridge Trail with Deer Springs Trail at PCT Mile 185.5. Above, on 30th May 2023, and below, roughly the same view about six weeks earlier on 14th April 2023, with the State Park sign fully buried in deep snow, and the tree-mounted signs only a foot or so above the snow (the latter are 6-7 feet above ground in the upper image).
Wellman Divide at 9700 ft elevation. Above, on 26th May 2023, with the four feet tall junction sign fully emerged from the snow, and below, only about six weeks earlier on 14th April 2023, when my hiking poles mark the approximate location of the fully buried sign.

Snow and trail update 24th May 2023

Temperatures well above seasonal on 12th-20th May greatly accelerated melting of snow, with many high country areas losing a further 12-18 inches of snow in the past week or so. Cooler weather for the remainder of the month, especially from 24th-29th, will slow snowmelt rates, and snow should be relatively firm underfoot, at least in the mornings.

An exceptionally early monsoon weather pattern, more reminiscent of late summer than late May, has been another weather feature of the past week. A couple of wonderful monsoonal thunderstorms on Sunday 21st May combined for an impressive 0.72 inch of rain in Idyllwild, with 0.24 inch recorded at Saddle Junction (8100 ft), 0.11 inch at Wellman’s Cienega (9300 ft), and a light sprinkling on the highest peaks.

Hiking different routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week facilitates assessment of snow conditions on the trail system around the high country including the highest sections of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains (Miles 179-181 and 183-185.5). Our daily hikes in between mainly assess other parts of the PCT, side trails and alternates, including, for example, South Ridge Trail every week.

On Monday 22nd May (and again on Friday 26th) I didn’t require spikes for ascending San Jacinto Peak via the east side route using Devil’s Slide, Wellman, Peak and East Ridge trails. However spikes were useful for descending the western side via Deer Springs Trail, down to about 8700 ft. Cooler weather this week may harden the compacted snow tracks, improving the traction and hiking conditions. Overall spikes continue to be useful in the high country, and some hikers may prefer trail crampons, although neither are now essential hiking on the established boot tracks.

Trails above about 8900 ft remain largely obscured by light to moderate snow (lower in places). Trails as low as 8000 ft elevation can have shallow but increasingly patchy snow cover, especially on north-facing slopes. The reliable boot tracks of April and early May have become increasingly scrappy with the widespread but patchy melting of recent weeks. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep is often much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of angled ice.

Traction decisions have generally become much easier again following the minor snowstorm in early May. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, quality of footwear tread, and extent to which a track has been traveled and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole in soft afternoon snow (which is rarely easy or fun) also influences choice of traction.

Spikes remain useful for the foreseeable future above about 9000 ft (lower in places) but they may no longer be required depending upon the specifics of the route, the hiker’s comfort level hiking on icy snow, plus the quality of footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move steadily upwards with melting of snow over the next few weeks, but spikes will remain useful throughout June at least in parts of the high country. Spikes tend to be especially helpful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are becoming less valuable, but remain potentially useful everywhere above about 9000 ft. Some hikers will find them useful anywhere off-trail in the high country on colder mornings, and on-trail on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, such as the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and especially on the short section of South Ridge Trail across the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Snowshoes remain useful above about 9000 ft for off-trail travel over the next few weeks, for example to reach the >10,000 ft peaks that are not connected by well-traveled tracks. Snow away from the compacted tracks generally softens rapidly by mid morning once direct sun hits slopes and temperatures rise.

In addition to snow and navigation issues, hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on all trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus some effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change. In addition there can be a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky crossings. Be very cautious of snow bridges across water.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near freezing in the high country, and below freezing when considering wind chill effects (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads. The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April. The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May, but Forest Service campgrounds remain closed at this time. Black Mountain Road (4S01) has effectively reopened. The gate 1.7 miles from the highway was vandalized in mid May and the Forest Service have decided to leave it open for now. The road is in its poorest condition for at least a decade and 4WD and/or high clearance are recommended.

WEATHER

Daytime temperatures are forecast to be below seasonal for May from 24th-31st, while overnight lows will be cooler than last week but about seasonal for the month. Air temperatures in the high country will remain just above freezing, but with windchills at or below freezing around the highest peaks. Temperatures will steadily warm to near seasonal in the first week of June. With the monsoonal easterly air flow now breaking down, there is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 22nd May 2023 at 0825 the air temperature was 43.9°F (7°C), with a windchill temperature of 36.7°F (3°C), 72% relative humidity, and a light SSW breeze sustained at 2 mph gusting to 6.8 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 19th May 2023 at 0805 the air temperature was 46.3°F (8°C), with a “windchill” temperature of 44.8°F (7°C), 37% relative humidity, and a near-calm SW breeze sustained at 0 mph gusting to 2.7 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 15th May 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.7°F (-1°C), 39% relative humidity, and a fresh ESE wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 18.8 mph.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. However two significant sections remain extensively snow-covered.

The trail is clear from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable. I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 on 1st May. Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) has been clear of snow for several weeks.

Snow cover is about 70% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 177.7 (Chinquapin Flat), but with a well traveled track through the extended snow patches and with very limited consequential terrain. Many hikers will find that spikes can be useful on this section. Note that the posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route in places.

PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail from the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) to Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no reliable steps to follow through a section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are required. Even in low snow years these slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and they are not expected to fully clear until the first week of June this year.

Snow cover is increasingly patchy and averages <50% between Miles 177.7 to Saddle Junction (about Mile 179). The south-facing slope of Miles 179-180 is clear of snow, but from Mile 180 (elevation 8900 ft) to about Mile 181 just past Annie’s Junction snow cover is >95% and the track can be hard to follow in places. Miles 181-184 are functionally clear of snow, and snow cover then becomes largely continuous from Mile 184.5. Spikes can be useful on the snowy parts of this section, but are not required at this time for hikers experienced with snow travel.

There is a boot track through an average of 60% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). My video report from 10th May (available here) remains largely relevant. The track does not accurately follow the PCT route in some places and passes through some challenging terrain, especially in Miles 185.5-187. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with some moderate exposure, and spikes are recommended. Many hikers I have seen and talked to are carrying an ice axe to use with their spikes. Some hikers may still prefer to use trail crampons. Judging by what I see and hear firsthand on the mountain, most hikers are now passing through Fuller Ridge, but a significant percentage continue to prefer using the Black Mountain Road alternate at this time.

There is a potentially dangerous myth circulating on PCT social media that going up and over San Jacinto Peak somehow avoids Fuller Ridge. Whether you remain on the PCT northbound (going around at lower elevation via Strawberry Junction) or leave the PCT at Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) to go up to San Jacinto Peak and then down the west side to reconnect to the PCT at about Mile 185.5, you still have to hike Fuller Ridge (which is Miles 185.5-190.5). It is possible to do the former route more safely by leaving the PCT at Strawberry Junction (approx. Mile 183) and descending Deer Springs Trail, which is completely clear of snow below Strawberry Junction, back into Idyllwild.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is clear of snow for the lower five miles, and then is functionally clear (increasingly patchy 10% snow cover) for the upper three miles to the PCT. Mile 191 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter should be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

The well-known north spring at Wellman’s Cienega, 19th May 2023. The spring fully emerged from the snow in mid month, having been deeply buried and largely frozen for nearly four months from mid January to early May.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain largely or completely snow-covered above about 8900 ft. This elevation will continue to rise steadily with melting into June. Trails below about 7700 ft are now clear of snow. Elevations between 7700-8900 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 10-50% snow cover. Details of the PCT, its boot tracks, and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

The section of Skyline Trail that falls within the State Park jurisdiction above 5800 ft elevation reopened on 19th May following a closure of nearly four months due to supposedly “hazardous” snow conditions. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) Skyline Trail is now functionally clear of snow.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow to Saddle Junction. Spikes are not required.

The Wellman Trail has continuous snow cover on its southern 0.4 mile, but snow cover is a very patchy 40% otherwise. The southern portion of the track (with continuous snow cover) does not accurately follow the trail route, but the remainder of the track is now largely true to the trail route. Note there is considerable flowing water in the trail in several places in the area of Wellman’s Cienega.

The Peak Trail route remains largely snow-covered. The initial traverse north from Wellman Divide has about 90% rapidly thinning snow cover for about a mile to 9900 ft and the track largely follows the trail route, but thereafter snow cover is continuous. Multiple meandering boot tracks are becoming increasingly scrappy above 10,000 ft, especially on the main traverse up to near Miller Peak, they only vaguely approximate to the trail route, and the going is consequently slow. Close to San Jacinto Peak the boot track ascends directly up the East Ridge (not the switchbacks of the upper Peak Trail).

There is a well-traveled boot track through largely continuous snow up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide. Extensive clear patches are opening up in and around Round Valley, though few are actually in the designated camping areas.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The trail is then functionally clear of snow (only a few limited patches) for about 1.3 miles north of Strawberry Junction to about 8600 ft just south of the Marion Mountain Trail junction. Thereafter the predominant posthole track largely follows the true trail route through almost continuous snow until Fuller Ridge. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, there is rarely one predominant boot track, and there are often multiple lightly-traveled tracks generally taking direct routes up the various snow slopes and only periodically approximating to the trail route. Snow cover is about 90% up to Little Round Valley, and functionally continuous thereafter. Above Little Round Valley there are multiple poorly-defined boot tracks which ascend steeply and directly towards San Jacinto Peak, none of them approximating to the true trail route. Cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail, especially above the Fuller Ridge Trail junction, and spikes are recommended, especially for descending.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky as it is swollen with snowmelt.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through a short but steeply angled section of icy snow. These icy slopes are melting fast, but remain treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, remain required. At current melt rates the trail is expected to be passable without additional traction in the first week of June.

South Ridge Trail is completely clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak on the southern approach from South Ridge Road. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report on 16th May, and trail trimming is undertaken weekly. South Ridge Road remains closed to vehicle traffic, but is clear of snow and is tentatively scheduled to reopen in the first half of June.

Marion Mountain Trail is clear of snow for its lower 1.5 miles to 7500 ft. Snow then starts quite abruptly and from that elevation the softening snow cover averages 30% but with a mix of long clear sections and some lengthy snow patches. There is a great deal of water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, and there are many increasingly fragile snow bridges. The boot track is not always easy to follow in its uppermost section as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes, especially for descending parts of the upper half.

The Trail Report removed about 30 treefall hazards from Spitler Peak Trail on 25th May, bringing the total removed to just under 100 in the past two years. Half-a-dozen minor downed trees remain but none are significant obstructions. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail is completely clear of snow for 3.5 miles. The final 0.3 mile in the uppermost switchbacks has about 20% snow cover in patches. There is a lightly-traveled posthole track through those snow patches. From the top of the trail to the fire lookout, snow cover remains about 40%, but is soft and thinning rapidly. Black Mountain Road is functionally clear of snow but remains closed to vehicles at the gate 1.7 miles up from Highway 243.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is clear of snow, but remains closed to vehicles.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 22nd May 2023. The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting (and of rain on snow in some March storms), there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 30-36 inches, with some clear patches on south facing slopes, but drifts 5-6 feet deep remain in places (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 35 inches, with increasingly large clear patches but also many drifts 4-5 feet deep.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 20 inches, ranging from 0-50 inches (70-75 inches on both 3rd and 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 30-35 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 0-6 inches, largely clear but a few snow drifts 12-15 inches deep (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

The Peak Trail at 9800 ft elevation, about 0.5 mile north of Wellman Divide. Above, rapidly clearing of snow on 22nd May 2023, and below, taken from exactly the same location but deeply buried under about six feet of powder less than two months earlier on 31st March 2023.

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Stone Creek where it crosses Deer Springs Trail at about PCT Mile 183.8. Above, on 22nd May 2023, and below, only about five weeks earlier on 14th April 2023.
The junction of Fuller Ridge Trail with Deer Springs Trail at PCT Mile 185.5. Above, on 22nd May 2023, with a group of thru hikers heading north on Fuller Ridge, and below, roughly the same view on 14th April 2023, with the State Park sign fully buried in deep snow, and the tree-mounted signs only a foot or so above the snow (the latter are 6-7 feet above ground in the upper image).
Wellman Divide at 9700 ft elevation. Above, on 22nd May 2023, with the four feet tall junction sign almost fully emerged from the snow, and below, only about five weeks earlier on 14th April 2023, when my hiking poles mark the approximate location of the fully buried sign.
The San Jacinto Peak summit hut at 10,700 ft elevation. Above, on 22nd May 2023, and below the same view about eight weeks earlier on 31st March 2023. Average snow depth at the Peak has dropped from over eight feet to less than three feet in that time.
Strawberry Junction (8100 ft elevation) at approx. PCT Mile 183, on 22nd March 2023.
Two versions of the same view of upper Little Round Valley, taken almost exactly a year apart. Above, on 15th May 2023, with an average of about four feet of snow, but including drifts 6-7 feet deep in the foreground. Below, the same location on 9th May 2022. The prominent sign in the lower image is completely buried in snow in the upper image.

Snow and trail update 19th May 2023

UPDATE Sunday 21st May 2023: a spectacular monsoon thunderstorm around noon produced an impressive 0.56 inch of rain in Idyllwild in under one hour. The storm cells appeared to be largely confined to the western side of the mountains, including over Garner Valley, with no recorded, for example, in Long Valley.

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Skyline Trail between the State Park boundary (5800 ft elevation) and Grubbs Notch (Long Valley) reopened on Friday 19th May. The Skyline Trail forms the lower section of the C2C (Cactus-to-Clouds) route.

Considerable warming in recent days has greatly accelerated melting of snow. Above seasonal temperatures are forecast to continue until about 20th, while an exceptionally early monsoon weather pattern this week, about two months earlier than is typical for Southern California, may exacerbate the feeling of a premature summer.

Hiking different routes to San Jacinto Peak 2-3 times per week facilitates assessment of snow conditions on the trail system around the high country including the highest sections of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains (Miles 179-181 and 183-185.5). Our daily hikes in between mainly assess other parts of the PCT, plus side trails and alternates.

Our hike on Monday 8th May was the first of 2023 for which I didn’t use spikes either for ascending or descending San Jacinto Peak, using an Alpine start (plus reliably grippy boots) to ensure I had relatively easy going on cold, firm snow on the east side route using Devil’s Slide, Wellman, Peak and East Ridge trails. In contrast, on Monday 15th, spikes were extremely useful above 9000 ft on Deer Springs Trail on an ascent on hard icy snow, and down to 8500 ft descending Marion Mountain Trail through rapidly softening snow patches. Overall spikes continue to be very valuable in the high country, and some hikers may prefer trail crampons.

On Wednesday 10th May we surveyed Fuller Ridge Trail (PCT Miles 185.5-190.5) again, with a summary video report on YouTube available here. There was a very light dusting of fresh snow (<0.5 inch) above about 8000 ft overnight, but most melted by the afternoon, and it had no significant impact on the trail conditions.

Currently trails above about 8900 ft remain largely obscured by light to moderate snow (much lower in places). Trails as low as 7700 ft elevation can have shallow but very patchy snow cover, mainly on north-facing slopes. The reliable boot tracks of April and early May have become increasingly messy and meandering with patchy melting. Cautious navigation remains important everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of steeply angled ice.

Traction decisions have generally become easier again following the minor snowstorm in early May. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, and extent to which a track has been traveled and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole in soft afternoon snow (which is rarely easy) also influences choice of traction.

Spikes remain very useful for the foreseeable future above about 9000 ft (lower in places) but they may no longer be essential depending upon the specifics of your route, comfort level hiking on icy snow, plus the quality of tread on footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move steadily upwards with melting of snow over the next few weeks, but spikes are expected to remain useful well into June in the high country. Spikes tend to be especially helpful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are potentially useful everywhere above about 9000 ft, especially anywhere off-trail in the high country on cooler mornings, and on-trail on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, such as the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and the short section of South Ridge Trail across the north face of Tahquitz Peak.

Snowshoes remain useful above about 9000 ft for off-trail travel and on the warmest days over the next few weeks. Tracks in the high country soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise rapidly, at which point snowshoes may become valuable. It is clear from the overwhelming majority of high country tracks that hikers are preferring not to use snowshoes at this time.

In addition to snow and navigation issues, hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on all trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus some effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change. In addition there can be a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky crossings. Be very cautious of snow bridges across water.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads. The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April. The State Park Stone Creek campground reopened in early May, but Forest Service campgrounds remain closed at this time.

WEATHER

Temperatures are forecast to be well above seasonal for May until Tuesday 23rd, when there will be a subtle cooling (but only down closer to seasonal temperatures). Overnight low temperatures in particular will be at least 10°F above average for the next week at both mid and upper elevations. Air temperatures around the highest peaks will be more typical of midsummer for those elevations.

While there is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts, there is the likelihood of cloudy conditions, possible minor rainfall and even associated thunderstorms on at least 19th-22nd May (there were a few raindrops and rumbles of thunder on the afternoon of Wednesday 17th in Idyllwild). These are exceptionally early monsoonal conditions, a month before the earliest monsoons recorded in the past decade and two months before the normal start of our monsoon season, as warm, moist air originating over Texas is pulled across Southern California by an unseasonal weather pattern.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 15th May 2023 at 0750 the air temperature was 41.6°F (5°C), with a windchill temperature of 30.7°F (-1°C), 39% relative humidity, and a fresh ESE wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 18.8 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 11th May 2023 at 0745 the air temperature was 44.3°F (7°C), with a windchill temperature of 36.8°F (3°C), 25% relative humidity, and an extremely light WSW breeze sustained at 0 mph gusting to 2.6 mph.

At the Peak on Monday 8th May 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 32.3°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 16.8°F (-8°C), 17% relative humidity, and a steady WSW wind sustained at 18 mph gusting to 23.7 mph.

A beautiful unnamed seasonal creek flowing very strongly with snowmelt alongside upper Marion Mountain Trail, 15th May 2023.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

All of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains is readily passable with, crucially, suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed. Snowmelt is expected to be rapid for the remainder of May. I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. Some of these challenges may actually increase over the next couple of weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing at the highest elevations and highly variable snowmelt.

The PCT is now largely clear of snow through the San Jacinto mountains. However two significant sections remain extensively snow-covered. The trail is clear from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 169, and functionally clear (with only a handful of tiny snow patches) to Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable. I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 on 1st May. Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) is now clear of snow. See my latest video for details of Miles 169-179 (available here), where conditions remain fairly similar now despite the changeable weather in the intervening two weeks.

Snow cover is about 60% from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 178 (south of Saddle Junction), but with a well traveled track through the extended snow patches and with limited consequential terrain. Most hikers will find that spikes remain useful on this section, and note that the posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route.

Descending the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) is an option for hikers less comfortable on the sections of snow further north or lacking suitable traction. Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly this winter has has brought down about 30 minor trees and half-a-dozen washouts in the uppermost 1.2 miles but nothing overly challenging to pass. It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads – Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road – into Idyllwild (check maps or apps for details).

PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) and Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical. Even in low snow years these slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and they are expected to remain treacherous at least until the end of May this year.

Snow cover is moderate and averages 60% between Miles 179 to about Mile 192, but with extensive clearing on sun-exposed sections (especially Miles 181-184 and around Mile 187.5-188.5). Spikes can be useful everywhere throughout this section, but may not be essential at this time for hikers most experienced with snow travel.

There is a boot track through an average of 70% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191), as described in detail in my video report from 10th May (available here). The track does not accurately follow the PCT route in some places and passes through some challenging terrain, especially in Miles 185.5-187. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with some moderate exposure, and spikes (at a minimum) are recommended. Almost all hikers I have seen and talked to are carrying an ice axe to use with their spikes. Some hikers will prefer to use trail crampons. Judging by what I see and hear firsthand on the mountain, a significant proportion of thru hikers continue to prefer using the Black Mountain Road alternate at this time.

There is a myth circulating on PCT social media that going up and over San Jacinto Peak somehow avoids Fuller Ridge. Please note that this is both incorrect and potentially dangerous. Whether you remain on the PCT northbound (going around at lower elevation via Strawberry Junction) or leave the PCT at Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) to go up to San Jacinto Peak and then down the west side to reconnect to the PCT at about Mile 185.5, you still have to hike Fuller Ridge (which is Miles 185.5-190.5). It is possible to do the former route more safely by leaving the PCT at Strawberry Junction (approx. Mile 183) and descending Deer Springs Trail, which is completely clear of snow below Strawberry Junction, back into Idyllwild.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is clear of snow for the lower five miles, and then has increasingly patchy 20% snow cover for the upper three miles to the PCT but there are excellent tracks to follow through the snow patches. Mile 192 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter should be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover modest operating costs. Every year has unique challenges, and clearly 2023 is already no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Zelle, Venmo, and PayPal are all options. Thank you so much for your support.

The southern end of the Fuller Ridge Trail (PCT Mile 185.5) at its junction with Deer Springs Trail, 15th May 2023.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain almost completely snow-covered above about 8900 ft. This elevation will continue to rise steadily with rapid melting during the course of May. Trails below about 7600 ft are now clear of snow. Elevations between 7600-8900 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 30-70% snow cover. Details of PCT tracks and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail [surveyed 19th May] is functionally clear of snow to Saddle Junction. Spikes are not required.

There are tracks to follow around the Tahquitz area meadows. However few if any accurately follow the trail routes at this time, and at least on the initial 0.5 mile of the Caramba Trail and through Little Tahquitz Meadow there are multiple meandering tracks.

The track north from Saddle Junction follows initially follows the PCT route fairly accurately and is now only about 30% snow-covered for the first mile. From 8900 ft elevation, snow cover is functionally continuous.

The now heavily-traveled and well-compacted route thereafter follows the posthole track that I originally established on 31st March following the last major snowfall and continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route approximating to the Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails. Multiple boot tracks on the Wellman Trail, especially in the area of the switchbacks just below Wellman Divide, are potentially confusing and require careful navigation. The Wellman Trail has several extended areas already clearing of snow due to its high sun exposure.

There is a well-traveled boot track through largely continuous snow up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide.

The Peak Trail track above Wellman Divide is very well-defined given the additional foot traffic from the Tram/Long Valley. Almost all boot tracks ascend San Jacinto Peak directly via the East Ridge route rather than the switchbacks of the upper Peak Trail.

Deer Springs Trail [surveyed 15th May] is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The snow cover is increasingly patchy for more than a mile north of Strawberry Junction to about 8600 ft. Thereafter the predominant posthole track through continuous snow badly meanders in places and only vaguely approximates to the true trail route until Fuller Ridge. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, there is rarely one predominant boot track, and there are often multiple lightly-traveled tracks generally taking direct routes up the various snow slopes and rarely approximating to the trail route. Above Little Round Valley there is a multitude of ill-defined posthole tracks all of which ascend steeply and directly up towards San Jacinto Peak. Very cautious navigation is required on Deer Springs Trail above the Fuller Ridge Trail junction, and spikes are strongly recommended.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky as it is swollen with snowmelt.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are required.

South Ridge Trail [surveyed 14th and 16th May] is functionally clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak. Spikes are no longer required. Fourteen recent treefall hazards on the trail were removed by the Trail Report on 16th May. South Ridge Road is clear of snow but remains closed to vehicle traffic.

Marion Mountain Trail [surveyed 15th May] is clear of snow for its lower 1.5 miles to 7500 ft. Snow then starts quite abruptly and from that elevation the softening snow cover averages 40% but with a mix of long clear sections and some lengthy snow patches. There is a great deal of water flowing in the trail in its uppermost mile, and there are many increasingly fragile snow bridges. The boot track is not always easy to follow in its uppermost section as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes, especially for descending the upper half.

Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly most of my work of the past two years, in which more than 60 trees were cut on the upper trail, has been undone by this winter. About another 35 treefall hazards are on the trail, but thankfully almost all are small enough to be relatively easy to remove. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail is completely clear of snow for 3.5 miles. The final 0.3 mile in the uppermost switchbacks has about 20% snow cover in patches. There is a lightly-traveled posthole track through those snow patches. From the top of the trail to the fire lookout, snow cover remains >50%, but is soft and thinning rapidly.

Snow cover on Black Mountain Road is described in detail in the PCT section above.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is completely clear of snow, but remains closed.

Effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft is clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 11th-15th May 2023. The first number is the current average snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting and of rain on snow in some March storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 36-40 inches, with some clear patches now on the south face, but drifts up to seven feet deep remain in places (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 40 inches, with a few small clear patches now but also some drifts 6-7 feet deep.

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 30 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd March and again on 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 35-40 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches, a few very shallow snow patches remain (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 6 inches, many clear areas and very patchy snow drifts up to 20 inches deep (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

Two versions of the same view of upper Little Round Valley, taken almost exactly a year apart. Above, on 15th May 2023, with an average of about four feet of snow, but including drifts 6-7 feet deep in the foreground. Below, the same location on 9th May 2022. The prominent sign in the lower image is completely buried in snow in the upper image.
The San Jacinto Peak summit hut at 10,700 ft elevation. Above, on 8th May 2023, and below the same view just over five weeks earlier on 31st March 2023. Average snow depth at the Peak has more than halved from over eight feet to about four feet in that time.

Snow and trail update 10th May 2023

On Wednesday 10th May we surveyed Fuller Ridge Trail (PCT Miles 185.5-190.5) again, publishing a relatively short video report on YouTube (available here). There was a very light dusting of fresh snow (<0.5 inch) above about 8000 ft overnight, but most melted by the afternoon, and it had no significant impact on the trail conditions.

The 26th (and final?) snow storm of this remarkable winter impacted the San Jacinto mountains on Thursday 4th May. Although the new snow depth was limited – with four inches throughout the high country, three inches at Saddle and Strawberry junctions, and barely an inch in Idyllwild – and it then almost completely melted off within a couple of days, the impact was briefly significant, especially for the dozens of PCT hikers in the area at the time.

We hiked different routes to San Jacinto Peak on both 4th and 5th May to assess the snow conditions during the storm and immediately thereafter. This also allowed me to put in reliable boot tracks on both the east and west sides of the mountain, as the snow depth, in combination with strong winds and drifting, largely eliminated the existing tracks above 9000 ft. I recorded a brief video report at the Peak on Thursday 4th May which gives a sense for conditions at that time, available here on YouTube.

I repeated those routes on both 8th and 11th May. Having genuinely needed crampons on the east and west slopes of the Peak on 5th, my hike on Monday 8th was the first of 2023 for which I didn’t use spikes either for ascending or descending San Jacinto Peak, using an Alpine start (and reliably grippy boots) to ensure I had relatively easy going on cold, firm snow. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes in the high country, and some may prefer trail crampons.

On the morning of Monday 1st May we hiked the PCT between Spitler Peak and Saddle Junction (PCT Miles 168.5-179), recording a video report (available here) to document trail and snow conditions on this key section of the Desert Divide. Conditions remain very similar now despite the changeable weather in the intervening week.

Currently trails above about 9000 ft are largely obscured by light to moderate snow (much lower in places). Trails as low as 7500 ft elevation can have shallow but very patchy snow cover, mainly on north-facing slopes. Cautious navigation is essential everywhere.

Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note that snow depth itself is rarely indicative of the difficulty (or otherwise) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a firm, well-compacted track across snow several feet deep may be much easier hiking than a poorly defined track across just a few inches depth of steeply angled ice.

With the thin new snow from last week having already melted, traction decisions have become easier again, and where icy snow from earlier in the winter remains established tracks are compacted and defined. The optimum traction device at any given time and place depends on a complex interaction of factors including time of day, sun exposure of the trail, air temperature, and extent to which a track has been traveled and compacted. The willingness of the hiker to posthole in soft afternoon snow (which is rarely easy) also influences choice of traction.

Spikes are recommended for the foreseeable future everywhere above about 8000 ft (possibly lower in places) but are no longer essential depending upon your comfort level hiking on icy snow, plus the quality of tread on footwear being used. This elevation will continue to move steadily upwards with rapid melting of snow over the next few weeks, but spikes will remain useful throughout May. Spikes tend to be especially useful for descending even when they are not required for ascending.

Crampons – with hiking poles and/or an ice axe, depending on terrain – are potentially useful everywhere above about 9000 ft, when cold temperatures on some days, plus freeze/thaw cycles, lead to hardening of the snow surfaces. They could be especially useful over the next few weeks (depending on temperature) anywhere off-trail in the high country, and on-trail on certain moderate and higher angle slopes, at a minimum on the Peak Trail above Wellman Divide, the Wellman Trail, Deer Springs Trail above Little Round Valley, and uppermost South Ridge Trail, and on both flanks – but critically on the north face – of Tahquitz Peak.

Snowshoes remain useful above about 9000 ft for off-trail travel and on the warmest days over the next few weeks. Tracks in the high country can be firm if the morning is cold (spikes or even crampons best) but then soften rapidly once sun hits slopes and temperatures rise rapidly, at which point snowshoes may become valuable. It is clear from the overwhelming majority of high country tracks that hikers are preferring not to use snowshoes at this time.

Hikers should be prepared for temperatures near or below freezing in the high country, and often well below freezing when considering wind chill effects, until Friday 12th May after which warming will be rapid (see below for my recent weather observations from San Jacinto Peak).

In addition to snow and navigation issues, hikers should anticipate encountering many new treefall hazards on all trails, along with considerable amounts of debris, branches, cones, etc. While some of these issues are a consequence of the recent intense winter, most trails in the San Jacinto mountains have been inadequately maintained for years largely due to agency dysfunction, plus some effects of wildfires, the coronavirus pandemic, and climate change. In addition there can be a great deal of water in (and under) the trails, and this has also created some tricky crossings. Be very cautious of snow bridges across water.

The USFS gate at Humber Park reopened on Wednesday 19th April.

Forest Service roads currently closed to vehicular traffic by a revised closure order include Black Mountain Road (4S01), Dark Canyon Road (4S02), South Ridge Road (5S11), May Valley Road (5S21), and Santa Rosa Road (7S02), plus all their various side roads.

Beautiful altocumulus lenticularis clouds to the east of the Desert Divide, 5th May 2023. Cold west winds are forcing the marine layer (a literal “May grey”) over the Desert Divide on the right side of the image. The distinctive lens-like shape of these orographic clouds is formed by a specific wave motion in the air stream in the lee of mountains, in this case the Desert Divide. Lenticular clouds are particularly common in the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa mountains, due to the combination of the prominence of both mountain ranges and their orientation perpendicular to the prevailing westerly winds.

WEATHER

At mid elevations (e.g., Idyllwild-Pine Cove) temperatures remain pleasantly below seasonal for May until Thursday 11th, when a dramatic warming trend quickly pushes temperatures to well above average. In the high country, temperatures remain seasonal (i.e. near freezing) for a few more days, before rapid warming to temperatures well above seasonal starts around Friday 12th May, lasting for at least a week.

While there is no significant new precipitation in the forecasts, there is the possibility of minor rainfall, possibly associated with thunderstorms, on 16th-19th May. These are not storm systems as such, but localized precipitation, most similar to exceptionally early monsoonal conditions.

At San Jacinto Peak (10,810ft/3295m) on Monday 8th May 2023 at 0740 the air temperature was 32.3°F (0°C), with a windchill temperature of 16.8°F (-8°C), 17% relative humidity, and a steady WSW wind sustained at 18 mph gusting to 23.7 mph.

At the Peak on Friday 5th May 2023 at 0945 the air temperature was 21.6°F (-6°C), with a windchill temperature of 7.0°F (-14°C), 93% relative humidity, and a light due West wind sustained at 6 mph gusting to 12.8 mph.

At the Peak on Thursday 4th May 2023 at 1015 the air temperature was 20.1°F (-7°C), with a windchill temperature of 3.7°F (-16°C), 100% relative humidity, and a frigid SW wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 16.8 mph.

Frigid moist air forced up and over the remarkable prominence of San Jacinto Peak by strong westerly winds forms ephemeral aggregations of aerial ice crystals just east of the Peak, 5th May 2023, as seen from 10,000 ft on the Peak Trail route. These short-lived, shape-shifting, orographic clouds evaporate, both literally and figuratively, within minutes on the warmer, eastern side of the mountain.

PACIFIC CREST TRAIL INFORMATION

All of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains is readily passable with, crucially, suitable skills and equipment, patience, and a thorough knowledge of all the possible alternates if needed. Snowmelt will be slow over the next couple of days, and snow will generally be firm and icy, before accelerating very rapidly after about 12th May. I cannot overemphasize the importance of having both appropriate equipment and the right skill set for the terrain. The latter includes interpreting the snow/ice conditions, understanding your physical and mental abilities, and conservative decision making. These challenges may actually increase over the next couple of weeks with temperatures fluctuating either side of freezing and highly variable snowmelt.

The PCT is clear of snow from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about Mile 169, and functionally clear (with only a handful of tiny snow patches) to Mile 175. Treefall hazards are a problem on this section but none are insurmountable (I counted at least 94 between Miles 169-175 on 1st May). Apache Peak (Mile 169.5) is now functionally clear of snow. See my latest video for details of Miles 169-179 (available here).

Snow remains largely continuous from Miles 175 (Red Tahquitz) to 179 (Saddle Junction), but with a well traveled track and very little consequential terrain. Spikes are nevertheless recommended, and note that the posthole track on Miles 175-178 does not accurately follow the trail route.

Descending the well-signed alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) is an option for hikers less comfortable on the sections of angled snow further north or lacking suitable traction. Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly this winter has has brought down about 30 minor trees and half-a-dozen washouts in the uppermost 1.2 miles but nothing particularly challenging to pass. It is possible to get a ride on Apple Canyon Road, or to hike via the Forest Service roads – Bonita Vista Road and May Valley Road – into Idyllwild (check maps or apps for details).

PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) and Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical. These slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and will remain treacherous throughout May (possibly into June this year).

Snow cover is moderate and averages 70% between Miles 179 to about Mile 192, but with extensive clearing on sun-exposed sections (especially Miles 181-184 and around Mile 187.5-188.5). Spikes can be useful everywhere.

There is a boot track through an average of 75% moderate-to-deep snow cover on the PCT along Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191), as described in detail in my video report from 10th May (available here). The track does not accurately follow the PCT route in some places and passes through some challenging terrain, especially in Miles 185.5-187. At this time continuing north on Fuller Ridge requires the skills and comfort level to hike on angled terrain with some moderate exposure, and spikes (at a minimum) are recommended. Almost all hikers I have seen and talked to are carrying an ice axe to use with their spikes. Some hikers will prefer to use trail crampons (with an ice axe), assuming they have knowledge of how to use that equipment. Judging by what I see and hear firsthand on the mountain, up to half of thru hikers continue to prefer using the Black Mountain Road alternate at this time, but the proportion hiking Fuller Ridge has steadily increased over the past month.

There is a dangerous myth circulating on PCT social media that going up and over San Jacinto Peak somehow avoids Fuller Ridge. Please note that this is simply incorrect. Whether you remain on the PCT northbound (going around at lower elevation via Strawberry Junction) or leave the PCT at Annie’s Junction (Mile 180.8) to go up to San Jacinto Peak and then down the west side to reconnect to the PCT at about Mile 185.5, you still have to hike Fuller Ridge (which is Miles 185.5-190.5). It is possible to do the former route more safely by leaving the PCT at Strawberry Junction (approx. Mile 183) and descending Deer Springs Trail, which is completely clear of snow below Strawberry Junction, back into Idyllwild.

A well established alternate from Idyllwild – avoiding the challenging terrain of Fuller Ridge – is to connect back to the PCT at about Mile 191 using Black Mountain Road. Black Mountain Road is clear of snow for the lower four miles, and then has increasingly patchy 50% snow cover for the upper four miles to the PCT but there are excellent tracks to follow through the snow patches. Early on cold mornings the snow is hard and icy making it easy to hike, but snow is soft and postholing is poor by mid morning. Mile 193 northward to Interstate 10 is clear of snow.

PCT hikers are reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak by the State Park, including in the historic shelter. The shelter must be left available for use by emergency services at all times. Little Round Valley and Strawberry Junction are excellent overnight options for thru-hikers.

TRAIL CONDITIONS

Trails remain almost wholly snow-covered above about 8900 ft. This elevation will continue to change steadily with rapid melting during the course of May. Trails below 7500 ft are now clear (or functionally clear) of snow. Elevations between 7500-8900 ft vary considerably in snow cover depending on aspect, drifting, and tree cover, but typically average about 30-70% snow cover. Details of PCT tracks and alternates are given in the PCT section above.

Devil’s Slide Trail is clear of snow for two miles to about 7700 ft elevation. Snow cover averages 20% for the remaining 0.5 mile to Saddle Junction, mainly as a few extended patches around the uppermost switchbacks and close to Saddle. Snow can be firm in early mornings but it is often soft otherwise, as early as late morning on warm days (expect moderate postholing by afternoon). Hikers will find that spikes are not generally required for ascending, but they can be useful for descending the upper 0.5 mile of trail.

There are tracks to follow around the Tahquitz area meadows. However none accurately follow the trail routes at this time, and at least on the initial 0.5 mile of the Caramba Trail and through Little Tahquitz Meadow there are multiple meandering tracks.

The track north from Saddle Junction follows initially follows the PCT route fairly accurately and is now only about 60% snow-covered for the first mile. From 8900 ft elevation, snow cover is functionally continuous.

The now heavily-traveled and well-compacted route thereafter follows the posthole track that I originally established on 31st March following the last major snowfall and continues on to San Jacinto Peak, via a route approximating to the Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails. Multiple boot tracks on the Wellman Trail, especially in the area of the switchbacks just below Wellman Divide, are potentially confusing and require careful navigation. The Wellman Trail has several extended areas already clearing of snow due to its high sun exposure.

There is a well-traveled boot track through largely continuous snow up from Round Valley to Wellman Divide.

The Peak Trail track above Wellman Divide is very well-defined given the additional foot traffic from the Tram/Long Valley. Almost all boot tracks ascend San Jacinto Peak directly via the East Ridge route rather than the switchbacks of the upper Peak Trail.

Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. The snow cover is increasingly patchy for more than a mile north of Strawberry Junction to about 8600 ft. Thereafter the predominant posthole track through continuous snow badly meanders in places and only vaguely approximates to the true trail route until Fuller Ridge. Once the Deer Springs track leaves the PCT at the south end of Fuller Ridge, it generally takes direct routes up the various snow slopes and again only vaguely approximates to the trail route. In Little Round Valley the primary posthole track ascends steeply and directly up towards San Jacinto Peak (my fault, sorry).

The Ernie Maxwell Trail is clear of snow. Crossing the swollen Chinquapin Creek just below Humber Park can be tricky, especially on warm afternoons when snowmelt flows are strongest.

The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between the PCT at Chinquapin Flat and Tahquitz Peak has no steps to follow through the steeply angled ice with overlying deep snow. These icy slopes are notoriously treacherous. Currently crampons, always with an ice axe, and thorough knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are required.

South Ridge Road is clear of snow but remains closed for vehicles. South Ridge Trail [updated 14th May] is functionally clear of snow to Tahquitz Peak.. Spikes are no longer necessary.

Marion Mountain Trail [updated 10th May] is functionally clear of snow for its lower 1.5 miles to 7500 ft. The snow then starts quite abruptly and from that elevation the snow cover is largely continuous. The boot track is not always easy to follow in its uppermost section as it nears the PCT/Deer Springs Trail. Most hikers will prefer to use spikes, especially for descending.

Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow. Sadly most of my work of recent years, in which 60+ trees were cut on the upper trail, has been undone by this winter. About another 35 treefall hazards are on the trail, but thankfully almost all are small enough to be relatively easy to remove. More worrisome are 5-6 washouts in the upper switchbacks which have significantly impacted the tread in places, necessitating significant trail recovery work (photos in prior Report).

Black Mountain Trail is completely clear of snow for 3.5 miles. The final 0.3 mile in the uppermost switchbacks has about 40% snow cover in patches which obscure the route in places. There is a lightly-traveled and ill-defined posthole track through those snow patches. From the top of the trail to the fire lookout, snow cover remains almost continuous, but is soft and thinning rapidly.

Snow cover on Black Mountain Road is described in detail in the PCT section above.

Dark Canyon Road – the access for Seven Pines Trail – is completely clear of snow, but remains closed.

Effective 26th January 2023 the State Park closed the section of Skyline Trail that falls within its jurisdiction, above 5800 ft elevation, “until further notice due to dangerous weather conditions”. (For readers who are unclear, Skyline Trail forms the lower two-thirds of the “Cactus-to-Clouds” [C2C] route.) The State Park boundary is not marked but is near the site of the old Florian’s Cache, below Flat Rock. The open section of trail below 5800 ft is clear of snow.

SNOW DEPTHS

Measured on 8th May 2023 unless indicated. The first number is the current snow depth, followed in parentheses by the maximum depth recorded in winter 2022/23 where known. Note that broad averages are given; due to drifting in strong winds, and the differential effects of melting and of rain on snow in some March storms, there is considerable inconsistency of depth. Altitudes and PCT Miles are approximate.

San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 45-50 inches (105 inches on 31st March)

Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 55 inches

Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 35 inches (70-75 inches on 3rd March and again on 31st March)

Annie’s Junction/PCT Mile 180.8 (9070 ft): 40 inches (80 inches on 3rd March)

Long Valley (8600 ft): 0 inches, some shallow snow patches remain (60 inches on 3rd March)

Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183.2 (8100 ft): 0-2 inches

Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179 (8070 ft): 10 inches, very patchy from 0-25 inches (48-50 inches on 3rd March)

Devil’s Slide trailhead at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inches (46 inches on 3rd March)

Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inches (45 inches on 1st March)

PCT Mile 151 at crossing with Highway 74 (4800 ft): 0 inches (13 inches in first week of March)

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Two winters, two very different views of Wellman Divide. Above, on 5th May 2023, with my poles marking the location of the junction sign on top of about four feet of snow. The top of the junction sign is just visible, having emerged from the melting snow for the first time in a month a few days earlier. Below, roughly the same view the previous year on 2nd May 2022.
The San Jacinto Peak summit hut at 10,700 ft elevation. Above, on 8th May 2023, and below the same view just over five weeks earlier on 31st March 2023. Average snow depth at the Peak has dropped from over eight feet to about four feet in that time.
Stone Creek where it crosses the PCT/Deer Springs Trail about 0.6 mile north of Strawberry Junction at roughly PCT Mile 183.6. Above, on 5th May 2023, and below the same view but with at least triple the snow depth, on 14th April 2023.
Marion Creek flowing strongly with snowmelt where it crosses the Suicide Rock Trail, 7th May 2023.