UPDATE Saturday 27th April 2024: a very light dusting of snow yesterday evening has not significantly affected the tracks and trails. Snow depth is only 0.5 inch above 8500 ft all the way to San Jacinto Peak, and dusted down to 6800 ft on Devil’s Slide Trail. Idyllwild recorded 0.13 inch of rain. By late this morning the snow had already largely melted from sun-exposed trails below 9000 ft.
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For only the second time in the past four months we have gone more than ten days without a storm system. With recent summer-like temperatures and major springtime melting, trail conditions have changed dramatically, but should stabilize somewhat for a few days with cooler temperatures expected.
Daily survey hikes in the San Jacinto mountains include various routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week (most recently on 14th, 15th, 19th, and 23rd April), Tahquitz Peak and area at least once per week (most recently on 22nd April), Apache Peak and Fuller Ridge areas regularly during nobo PCT season, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days. I surveyed Fuller Ridge (PCT Miles 181.5-191) on the morning of Thursday 18th April and described conditions in a short video report available here on YouTube.
Decisions regarding traction devices are currently not necessarily straightforward, as temperatures in the high country fluctuate around freezing, and relatively firm early morning snow often softens dramatically within hours as temperatures climb. It is currently possible to bareboot all of the established trail routes, including the entire PCT through the San Jacinto mountains. However, that option is recommended only for hikers very comfortable and experienced hiking on angled icy snow and using excellent, appropriate footwear. For most hikers, given variable conditions at present, spikes are recommended everywhere above about 7500 ft. Crampons (and ice axe) are required on the north side of Tahquitz Peak as discussed below.
Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note however that snow depth itself is very rarely indicative of the difficulty (or ease) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a well-traveled and defined track across deep snow is often much easier hiking than a lightly traveled track across shallow, angled, icy snow.
Black Mountain Road is closed to vehicle traffic due to winter conditions at the gate 1.7 miles up from Highway 243. The road is clear of snow as far as the turning to Boulder Basin five miles from the highway. Patchy snow cover (40%) on the road is steadily melting from there for the next three miles to the PCT crossing/Fuller Ridge campground. Spikes are not required for hiking the road.
South Ridge Road reopened for the season on 23rd April. Dark Canyon Road has been closed almost continuously for five years, but is expected to reopen May 2024. Humber Park reopened on 24th April following another brief closure for tree maintenance work.
WEATHER
Following near-summer-like temperatures in the San Jacinto mountains over the past week, a brief cooling trend is underway. Temperatures will be near (or even briefly below) seasonal until Sunday 28th, when very warm temperatures return for the last few days of April into May. Another cooling trend is predicted in the middle of the first week of May.
Partly cloudy and cooler conditions are expected for 25th-27th April, with possibilities for light precipitation, especially rain at mid elevations (below 8000 ft). Showers are most likely in the afternoon and evening of Friday 26th, when a dusting of snow – perhaps an inch around the highest peaks – is tentatively forecast for the high country. Rainfall is expected to be limited, with <0.25 inch forecast for Idyllwild.
At San Jacinto Peak (3295m/10,810ft) on Tuesday 23rd April 2024 at 0735 the air temperature was 37.3°F (3°C), with a windchill temperature of 26.1°F (-3°C), 23% relative humidity, and a steady WSW wind sustained at 12 mph gusting to 16.8 mph.
At the Peak on Friday 19th April 2024 at 0820 the air temperature was 36.2°F (2°C), with a windchill temperature of 24.1°F (-4°C), 22% relative humidity, and a moderate WNW wind sustained at 9 mph gusting to 16.4 mph.
TRAIL CONDITIONS
Snow quality has deteriorated with a strong warming trend since 15th April and very rapid melting at all elevations. Nevertheless on cooler mornings old snow is locally firm and icy. Icy snow travel requires considerably more caution than soft, postholing snow.
Snow quality has deteriorated rapidly in recent days but should stabilize with a few cooler days forecast. Tracks have largely consolidated due to freeze-thaw cycles and hiker traffic and can still be hard and icy in places, especially early morning.
Snowshoes may be useful above about 9000 ft elevation on warm days (from 28th April) as snow softens rapidly, especially on less well defined trails such as upper Deer Springs. They are no longer helpful where tracks have been well-traveled and compacted (and hence increasingly suited to spikes and/or crampons). However, snowshoes continue to be valuable for off-trail travel above about 8000 ft through softening snow.
Almost all major tracks have reliable tracks through the remaining snow at this time including all of the PCT through the San Jacinto mountains, South Ridge Trail (south of Tahquitz Peak), Devil’s Slide Trail, onward via the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails to San Jacinto Peak, the Round Valley Trail from Long Valley through to Wellman Divide, Marion Mountain Trail, and all of Deer Springs Trail (although the track does not accurately follow the trail route above Marion Mountain Trail junction).
Carrying spikes remains strongly recommended everywhere above about 7500 ft. Icy compacted snow – following many freeze-thaw cycles and now that most trails have been well-traveled – is largely ideal for spikes. Crampons are essential for the north side of Tahquitz Peak (discussed below) and can be used as an alternative to spikes anywhere on compacted trails above about 9000 ft.
Snowshoes can be valuable away from compacted tracks above about 8000 ft elevation. On very warm days, especially later in the day on sunny slopes, they may become increasingly helpful. They are generally no longer useful for on-trail travel below 9000 ft as the established tracks are firm and compacted.
Despite limited snow this season and being readily passable with the appropriate skills and equipment for angled icy snow (currently crampons plus ice axe recommended), the State Park closed the uppermost section of Skyline Trail in their jurisdiction (above about 5600 ft) starting 21st February due to perceived unsafe conditions.
Devil’s Slide Trail is largely clear of snow. The trail is almost completely clear below 7700 ft with just a few isolated patches remaining. Some extended icy snow patches remain between 7700 ft and Saddle Junction, especially around 7700-7900 ft where icy conditions remain around switchbacks 6-8. Some hikers will find spikes useful for the snow patches on this trail, especially for descending. The Trail Report undertook extensive trail maintenance work in February to remove many damaged tree limbs in and over the trail resulting from an early February ice storm.
Trails clear of snow include Ernie Maxwell, Spitler Peak, and Cedar Springs.
South Ridge Trail is clear of snow to Old Lookout Flat (7500 ft), and functionally clear of snow from there to about 8400 ft (switchback 9), with only a few minor icy drifts remaining. Snow cover is only about 50% on the final nine switchbacks up to Tahquitz Peak, but many of the snow patches are icy and most hikers will find spikes useful on the uppermost trail. The Trail Report cleared this winter’s treefall hazards from South Ridge Trail in mid April.
The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between Chinquapin Flat/PCT MIle 177 and Tahquitz Peak has no track to follow at this time [surveyed multiple times in April] through several feet of heavily drifted and angled ice and icy snow. This ice slope is notoriously treacherous. Neither snowshoes nor spikes are helpful at this time, due to the angled slope and structure of the snow, respectively. Crampons with an ice axe are essential on this section at this time, along with the necessary skills and experience to use that equipment in icy, angled terrain with considerable exposure.
The Peak Trail track has been well-traveled and fairly accurately follows the true trail route. However near Miller Peak at about 10,400 ft the track ascends directly up the East Ridge route, rather than following the Peak Trail switchback, as is traditional in winter conditions.
Deer Springs Trail is clear of snow to Strawberry Junction. Above Strawberry Junction snow cover is increasingly sparse to about 8400 ft. A well-traveled but largely uneven posthole track, that does not accurately follow the trail route in many places, continues through almost continuous snow thereafter. Above the Fuller Ridge Trail junction the track rarely follows the trail route, and often diverges into two or even three options. All of them ultimately get to Little Round Valley however. The tracks largely coalesce briefly through Little Round Valley. From the upper end of Little Round Valley to San Jacinto Peak there are several lightly-traveled posthole tracks that all climb directly up the slope, none even approximating the true trail route. Spikes can be helpful, especially for descending the upper trail, along with cautious navigation.
Marion Mountain Trail is largely clear of snow below 7200 ft elevation. Above that the trail has a surprisingly lightly-traveled and uneven posthole track that generally follows the true trail route through extended icy snow (c.60% snow cover). Spikes are useful, especially for descending.
Spitler Peak Trail suffered badly during ice storms in early February, and I found 34 new treefall hazards down during my surveys earlier this winter, almost all in the upper half. Most are relatively small and readily passable, but a few are larger, and the combined effect is to make for a slower and scrappier hike.
PACIFIC CREST TRAIL
Snow cover on the PCT is minimal from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about 163. Old icy snow is now very patchy and largely confined to north- and east-facing slopes, until about Mile 174.5. Note that many of these patches can be icy (depending on time of day) and require caution. See comments below regarding specific conditions around Apache Peak (Mile 169.5). The posthole track on the north side of Red Tahquitz (175-177) does not accurately follow the PCT route.
Snow cover is then extensive, but with snow-free patches increasing every day, between Miles 175-192. The south-facing slopes at Miles 179-180 and 181-183 are now largely clear of snow.
At this time, nobo hikers unfamiliar with hiking across areas of angled icy snow may want to consider taking the alternate at Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) to avoid the worst of the snow slopes from Miles 169-178, and the 100+ downed treefall hazards in the same section.
There is now a relatively reliable posthole track to follow on Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). Although it does not accurately the PCT route in several places, following the main track is the safest way to traverse these miles. Traversing this section is possible barebooting but spikes are strongly recommended. Also useful are patience, cautious navigation, and an adequate comfort level with hiking on angled icy snow slopes. I thoroughly surveyed Fuller Ridge on the morning of Thursday 18th April and reported on conditions in a short video report available here on YouTube.
Hikers wanting to avoid Fuller Ridge until the snow conditions improve can use the Black Mountain Road alternate. Black Mountain Road is open to hikers but not to vehicle traffic at this time. Spikes are no longer required on the upper three miles of Black Mountain Road.
Only a small and patchy icy snow slope remains on the north-east side of Apache Peak. Spikes are recommended (but not essential) to traverse this short section using the PCT route. Another option for nobo hikers is to go up and over the saddle between the double peaks of Apache for those wanting to avoid this traverse.
PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail from the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) to Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice slopes (photo below). Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical. Even in below average snow years like 2024 these slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and they will remain challenging into late April this year, possibly even May.
PCT hikers are politely reminded that overnight stays are not permitted at or near San Jacinto Peak, including in the historic shelter. Mt. San Jacinto State Park regulations do not permit overnight stays in the shelter, which is dedicated for emergency, SAR, and ranger use.
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SNOW DEPTHS measured on 23rd April 2024 are as follows. The first number gives current average total depth, which also accounts for substantial melting between and since recent storms. The number in brackets is the greatest depth at that location this winter (where known). Note that averages are given; due to strong winds during and after most storms there has been considerable drifting, plus often very uneven melting during warm interludes. Altitudes and PCT mileages are approximate.
San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 30-40 inches [60 inches on 1st April]
Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 12 inches, ranging from 0-24 [41-43 inches on 8th February] photos below
Annie’s Junction/approx. PCT Mile 181.8 (9070 ft): 30-36 inches [55 inches on 1st April]
Long Valley (8400 ft): 0 inch, some snow patches persist [24 inches on 8th February]
Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183 (8100 ft): 0 inch, some snow patches persist
Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179.9 (8070 ft): 8 inches, ranging from 0-24 [32 inches on 1st April]
Devil’s Slide Trail at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0 inch [15 inches on 8th February]
Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inch [9 inches on 8th February]
San Jacinto Trail Report 