UPDATE Thursday 28th March 2024: the next storm rolls in before dawn on Saturday 30th and continues for roughly 48 hours into the early hours of Monday 1st April (no fooling). Current forecasts suggest a relatively cold system, with a dusting of snow possible throughout Garner Valley including even the lowest parts of the PCT in the San Jacinto mountains, several inches of snow perhaps mixed with some rain expected at Idyllwild elevation (5000-6000 ft), and up to 12-18 inches of snow above 10,000 ft. Temperatures will be well below freezing everywhere above 6000 ft, potentially lower. Hikers should be prepared for challenging conditions – much as described in the Report below – into the first week of April (at least).
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This is a summary of conditions following the 23rd storm system of this winter. Like 17 of this winter’s storms before it, this system was minor in terms of snow production, although this time the impacts were very significant on the tracks and trails due to high winds and snow type.
Two phases characterized this storm. The first, from the afternoon of 23rd into the morning of 24th, produced light powder, with the most I measured being four inches at Annie’s Junction (9070 ft, PCT Mile 180.8) and generally 2-3 inches from Idyllwild (at 5500 ft ) to San Jacinto Peak (10,810 ft). However strong winds accompanied the snowfall, and the drifting fine powder had completely eliminated tracks all the way down to about 6000 ft.
I discussed the conditions and current challenges for PCT hikers in a video report recorded just below San Jacinto Peak late that morning (available here). I also uploaded a very brief panorama video from the Peak (available here) on what was an especially pretty morning even by San Jac standards. It is worth noting that the windchill temperature at the Peak that morning was a brisk -12.5°F (-25°C).
The second phase was a spectacular series of thunderstorm cells that came in from the north-west and passed right over the mountains in the early evening of Sunday 24th March. As is typical with winter thunderstorms, the precipitation produced was graupel, the snow equivalent of hail. In a period of 1.5 hours, 2.5 inches of graupel fell in town from 1645-1815. The lightning reflecting off the fresh snow in Idyllwild was especially dramatic. On my survey hike on 25th I found a remarkably even cover of 2-3 inches of graupel throughout the mountain everywhere above 5000 ft.
Daily survey hikes in the San Jacinto mountains include various routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week (most recently on 16th, 19th, 24th, and 25th March), Tahquitz Peak and area at least once per week (most recently on 18th and 23rd March), Apache Peak area regularly during PCT season, plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days.
On Sunday 24th I broke trail – through moderate blizzard conditions up to 9100 ft – to San Jacinto Peak via Devil’s Slide, PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails to assess the snowfall and impact to the trails. On Monday 25th I found those tracks had all been erased again by the fresh graupel, so re-broke the same route. Those tracks should now last until the weekend. The graupel on 24th made for excellent snowshoeing conditions the following day, but already by late morning on 25th the rapidly warming temperatures were turning the surface snow soft and clumpy.
Snowshoes remain invaluable everywhere above about 8000 ft elevation (see photos below). This elevation may rise rapidly to 9000 ft on sun-exposed trails with melting expected this week, and as tracks become compacted and increasingly suited to spikes and/or crampons.
Tracks remain very icy in places under the fresh powder. For the next two weeks – until thawing is expected to be partly underway – spikes at a minimum (preferably crampons in some areas) are recommended everywhere above 7500 ft. Crampons are required on the north side of Tahquitz Peak and on Fuller Ridge, as discussed below, and may become increasingly useful everywhere in the high country into early April (at least).
Details of snow depths measured at various locations on the trail system are given at the foot of this posting. Note however that snow depth itself is very rarely indicative of the difficulty (or ease) of hiking a particular track or trail. For example a well-traveled and defined track across deep snow is often much easier hiking than a lightly traveled track across just a few inches of angled icy snow. PCT hikers in particular should note that many high country trails potentially pose greater risks in 2024 (due to underlying ice from prior rain-on-snow) than they did at the same time in 2023 when snow depths were generally double or locally even quadruple those of this year.
Despite generally warming temperatures for the next few days, hikers should be prepared for temperatures below freezing at higher elevations, and often well below freezing when considering wind chill effects. See Weather section below for some of my recent observations from San Jacinto Peak.
Black Mountain Road is closed to vehicle traffic due to winter conditions at the gate 1.7 miles up from Highway 243. The road will quickly clear of snow as far as the turning to Boulder Basin five miles from the highway. Snow cover on the road will remain largely continuous from there for the next three miles to the PCT crossing/Fuller Ridge campground into late March.
Humber Park reopened again on the afternoon of 25th March having been largely plowed. Even when closed – possible again this coming weekend – there are nine legal parking spaces just below the gate (Adventure Pass or equivalent still required). South Ridge Road is closed due to winter conditions. Azalea Drive – access to Marion Mountain trailhead – is clear of snow. Dark Canyon Road has been closed almost continuously for the past five years.
WEATHER
Temperatures rapidly warm to near seasonal for 26th-28th March, with sunny days forecast, so melting will be rapid everywhere below 7500 ft plus on sun-exposed slopes at higher elevations. The next storm system is expected around Saturday 30th March to Tuesday 2nd April. The system will be relatively mild, with freeze levels generally staying above 6000 ft. Precipitation amounts at various elevations remain unclear, but 10-30 inches of snow may be possible in the high country and predominantly rain with some light snow at mid elevations (e.g., Idyllwild). At this time, temperatures are tentatively forecast to rise again from 3rd April onwards.
At San Jacinto Peak (3295m/10,810ft) on Monday 25th March 2024 at 0955 the air temperature was 16.3°F (-9°C), with a windchill temperature of -2.6°F (-19°C), 61% relative humidity, and a fresh WNW wind sustained at 11 mph gusting to 19.1 mph.
At the Peak on Sunday 24th March 2024 at 1010 the air temperature was 11.1°F (-12°C), with a windchill temperature of -12.5°F (-25°C), 85% relative humidity, and a bitter due West wind sustained at 15 mph gusting to 25.3 mph.
At the Peak on Tuesday 19th March 2024 at 1020 the air temperature was 23.2°F (-5°C), with a windchill temperature of 5.9°F (-14°C), 92% relative humidity, and a gusty due North wind sustained at 14 mph gusting to 21.1 mph.
TRAIL CONDITIONS
There was largely continuous snow cover on all trails above about 4500 ft on the morning of 25th, but with rapid melting it is already becoming increasingly patchy to 7000 ft on the most sun-exposed slopes. Under the shallow fresh powder, the remaining deeper old snow is locally firm and icy. Icy snow requires considerably more caution plus specialist equipment (and different physical and mental skillsets) than soft, postholing snow. Snow quality will deteriorate rapidly this week with a warming trend and locally rapid melting at all elevations.
Only a few major tracks have been broken through the snow at this time including Devil’s Slide Trail, onward via the PCT, Wellman, Peak, and East Ridge trails to San Jacinto Peak.
Carrying spikes is strongly recommended everywhere above about 6500 ft. Icy compacted snow – once the trails become well-traveled – will be largely ideal for spikes, although as discussed above crampons are an excellent option until next week at least, especially in some locations above about 7700 ft. Crampons are essential if attempting Fuller Ridge and the north side of Tahquitz Peak (discussed below).
Snowshoes can be valuable everywhere above about 7500 ft elevation at present. On warm days (most likely 19th-22nd March) and later in the day on sunny slopes they will become increasingly helpful. They will quickly become less useful for on-trail travel below 9000 ft as the established tracks become well compacted. Snowshoes will be recommended for any significant off-trail travel away from the defined tracks in the high country into April.
Despite limited snow this season and being readily passable with the appropriate skills and equipment for angled icy snow (currently crampons plus ice axe recommended), the State Park closed the uppermost section of Skyline Trail in their jurisdiction (above about 5600 ft) starting 21st February due to perceived unsafe conditions.
Devil’s Slide Trail is already thinning below 7000 ft but is otherwise snow-covered above that elevation. It will largely clear of snow up to 6800 ft this week, with patchy clearing to 7500 ft, and a few bare patches appearing as high as 8000 ft. The track is already well-defined, but compacted only below 7700 ft. Note that at about 7700-7900 ft there can be very icy conditions around switchbacks 6-8 (for those familiar with this trail). Spikes are ideal for this trail, although they are not essential. The Trail Report undertook extensive trail maintenance work on 15th February to remove many damaged tree limbs in and over the trail resulting from an early February ice storm.
The Peak Trail snowshoe track that I broke on 25th March quite accurately follows the true trail route. However near Miller Peak at about 10,400 ft the track ascends directly up the East Ridge route, rather than following the Peak Trail switchback, as is traditional in winter conditions.
The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between Chinquapin Flat/PCT MIle 177 and Tahquitz Peak has no track to follow at this time [surveyed 18th March] through several feet of heavily drifted and angled ice and icy snow. This ice slope is notoriously treacherous. Neither snowshoes nor spikes are helpful at this time, due to the angled slope and structure of the snow, respectively. Crampons with an ice axe are essential on this section at this time, along with the necessary skills and experience to use that equipment in icy, angled terrain.
Spitler Peak Trail suffered badly during the ice storms in early February, and I found 34 new treefall hazards down during my surveys in late February, almost all in the upper half. Most are relatively small and readily passable, but a few are larger, and the combined effect is to make for a slower and scrappier hike.
PACIFIC CREST TRAIL
Current snow cover on the PCT is widespread but rapidly melting from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about 163. Underlying snow is then thin, with old snow largely confined to north- and east-facing slopes, until about Mile 174. Note that many of these patches are icy and require considerable caution. See comments below regarding specific conditions around Apache Peak (Mile 169.5). Snow cover is then functionally continuous between Miles 174-195. There are currently no reliable tracks to follow on Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191) and traversing this section requires crampons, an ice axe, and appropriate snow skills (a track that was put in on 17th-18th March is now covered in drifted snow).
At this time, nobo hikers should consider taking alternates at either Fobes Trail (Mile 166) or Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) to avoid the worst of the icy snow slopes from Miles 169-175. This situation will continue to change over the coming days and weeks with a mix of rapid melting then more precipitation expected in the remainder of March.
It is recommended that hikers use the Black Mountain Road alternate to avoid Fuller Ridge until the ice conditions improve (likely in early-mid April). Black Mountain Road is open to hikers but not to vehicle traffic at this time. Spikes are useful (but not essential) on the upper three miles of Black Mountain Road.
A significant icy snow slope remains on the north-east side of Apache Peak (photo in prior Report linked here). At this time spikes at a minimum, but preferably crampons, plus an ice axe, and crucially the skills and experience to use this equipment on angled icy snow, are required to traverse this section. While one option for nobo hikers is to go up and over the saddle between the double peaks of Apache to avoid this traverse, there are further very icy chutes and slopes in the next few miles, especially at present around Red Tahquitz (Miles 174-175.5), some of which have proven to be equally problematic in past seasons. Alternates at Miles 166 and 168.5 are recommended, as mentioned above.
PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail from the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) to Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical. Even in low snow years like 2024 these slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and they will remain challenging into April this year.
Although just outside the region covered by the Trail Report (and my area of expertise) I understand that northbound hikers are experiencing significant problems due to storm damaged trail in the Mission Creek area of Miles 225-250. More details are available at this link.
While all time and labor is volunteered, the San Jacinto Trail Report uses small private donations to help cover operating costs. Every year seems to have its unique challenges, and it is already clear that 2024 will be no exception. Your contribution keeps the Report available to all, free from advertising or paywalls, and independent from agencies. If you have found this Report useful, please consider using this link to the Donate page. Thank you very much for your support.
SNOW DEPTHS measured on 25th March 2024 are as follows. The first number gives current average total depth. The number in parentheses gives new snow from the storm on 23rd-24th March, while the number in brackets is the greatest depth at that location this winter (where known). Note that averages are given; due to strong winds during and after most storms there has been considerable drifting, plus often uneven melting. Altitudes and PCT mileages are approximate.
San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 48-50 inches (4 inches new snow 23rd-24th March)[55-60 inches on 8th February]
Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 33-35 inches (4 inches new 23rd-24th March) [41-43 inches on 8th February]
Annie’s Junction/approx. PCT Mile 181.8 (9070 ft): 48-52 inches (6 inches new on 23rd-24th March)[48-50 inches on 8th February]
Long Valley (8400 ft): 2-12 inches, very uneven melting (4 inches new 23rd-24th March)[24 inches on 8th February]
Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179.9 (8070 ft): 23-25 inches (5 inches new on 23rd-24th March)[31 inches on 8th February]
Devil’s Slide Trail at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0-5 inches, already rapidly melting (3.5 inches new on 23rd-24th March)[15 inches on 8th February]
Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0-3 inches, already rapidly melting (5 inches new on 23rd-24th March)[9 inches on 8th February]
Mountain Center (4400 ft): 0-2 inch, largely melted (3 inches new on 23rd-24th March)[3 inches on 9th February and 25th March]
San Jacinto Trail Report 