UPDATE 3rd March 2024 at 1115: most striking on our hike up South Ridge Trail to Tahquitz Peak this morning was how icy everything was, plastered with freezing rain, even dirt sections of trail. For the next 24-48 hours until thawing is well underway, spikes at a minimum, but preferably crampons, are recommended everywhere above 6500 ft. While it continues to drizzle in Idyllwild, it is dry above 7000 ft (albeit very windy), and sunny above about 8500 ft. Storm total for Idyllwild is currently 1.19 inches of rain. No significant snow accumulation is now forecast at any elevation.
UPDATE 2nd March 2024 at 1715: a mix of rain and drizzle overnight continued throughout Saturday at mid elevations, with 0.95 inch of rain in Idyllwild by 1700, and multiple locations on the west and north slopes between 3800-6800 ft elevation ranging from 0.5-1.0 inch. This has not translated into significant new snow in the high country however, where it was largely sunny on Saturday with the cloud top around 9000 ft on the west slope, and patchy around 8500 ft on the east side.
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This winter has seen storm after storm, but with 14 of the 18 systems being minor (<6 inches of snow above 10,000 ft), snow depths are poor for late February. This is especially notable below 7000 ft, as many of the storms have been warm, with high freeze levels and consequently rain (rather than snow) at mid elevations. By 20th January, we were on target for the driest winter in the San Jacinto mountains in recorded history. Although such a disastrous season has been avoided with some solid precipitation in late January and the first half of February, it remains a well-below-average winter, with snowfall in Idyllwild only about 55% of seasonal so far, and high country snowfall only 40-50%.
Daily survey hikes in the San Jacinto mountains include various routes to San Jacinto Peak multiple times per week (most recently on 21st, 26th, and 29th February), Tahquitz Peak and area at least once per week (most recently on 3rd February), Apache Peak area at least weekly at this time of year (most recently on 25th February), plus a wide variety of other trails on intervening days. The 18th storm of winter 2023/24 last week was described in detail in the previous Report (available here).
On 26th and 29th February I ascended San Jacinto Peak via Devil’s Slide, PCT, Wellman and Peak trails, descending via Deer Springs Trail on 26th. On both days I was able to use spikes all the way to San Jacinto Peak and back down to about 7500 ft, with snow quality having improved significantly this week.
Under cloudy skies, I had a few snowflakes in the air around me three brief times on 26th, but as forecast the minor storm passed by just to the north (see photo below). Rainfall in Idyllwild was 0.43 inch (at 5550 ft) by the early morning of Tuesday 27th February, but there was no significant new snowfall in the high country, with evidence of freezing rain all the way to San Jacinto Peak visible on 29th.
Snow conditions have greatly improved with cooler weather this week, especially above 7500 ft, in contrast to the soft, unpredictable snow of last week. Snow quality should stabilize with temperatures cooling on average, until about Saturday 9th March when a spring-like warming trend is expected. On Thursday 29th it was striking that reliable, hard, icy snow in the morning was already softening rapidly by 0900 on my descent, and below 9000 ft snow conditions were deteriorating steadily late morning. Even under cloudy skies lightly traveled sections below 8000 ft (e.g., Deer Springs Trail below Strawberry Junction) can be soft and challenging underfoot by mid morning.
Details of recommended traction devices are given below under Trail Conditions. In summary, carrying spikes is recommended everywhere above about 6500 ft, even if using other traction devices as well. Crampons are increasingly useful everywhere in the high country above about 8500 ft (possibly lower) over the next week or two as the pre-existing snow firms up in colder temperatures and following both freeze-thaw cycles and compaction. Crampons are required on the north side of Tahquitz Peak (details below). Snowshoes can be useful above about 8000 ft elevation, especially on warmer, sunnier days, and from late morning onwards as snow softens on sun-exposed slopes. They are generally invaluable for any off-trail travel above 8000 ft.
The next storm system is forecast for 2nd-3rd March. It is tentatively forecast to be colder than other recent storms, with light snow possibly as low as 4000 ft and some rain mixed with 1-3 inches of snow at the elevation of Idyllwild. High country forecasts have ranged from 0-12 inches of snow, now with an increasing likelihood that upper elevations may be above the cloud altogether. Another system may bring light precipitation around 5th-7th March, with a few inches of snow at most in the high country and limited light rain likely at mid elevations.
Temperatures will be relatively cold for the first week or so of March, near seasonal (in the high country) or below seasonal (mid elevations). Hikers should be prepared for temperatures below freezing at higher elevations, and well below freezing when considering wind chill effects. See under Weather below for my recent observations from San Jacinto Peak.
Be bear aware. Although rarely reported, up to three Black Bears have been in the San Jacinto mountains since 2017. I crossed bear tracks at 9100 ft on the PCT on 12th February 2024 (photo in the previous Report linked here). While Southern California studies have found that hibernation is integral to gestation for pregnant female bears, adult males and younger bears of both sexes generally don’t hibernate this far south. I have seen at least one bear annually for six years, most recently in September 2023 on Marion Mountain Trail, and on Devil’s Slide Trail in July 2022 and September 2021 (a poor quality video from the latter observation is available here).
Humber Park closed on 31st January and remained closed as of Thursday 29th February, even though it is now functionally clear of snow. Even when closed, there are nine legal parking spaces just below the gate (Adventure Pass or equivalent still required). South Ridge Road is closed due to winter conditions. Azalea Drive – access to Marion Mountain trailhead – has been periodically plowed by USFS.
Despite shallow snow this season (<18 inches) and being readily passable with the appropriate skills and equipment for angled icy snow, the State Park closed the uppermost section of Skyline Trail in their jurisdiction (above about 5600 ft) starting 21st February due to perceived unsafe conditions.
WEATHER
Temperatures rise briefly before the next storm comes through on 2nd-3rd March. This system is forecast to be colder than most recent storms, with a freeze level as low as 4500 ft, with light snow expected throughout the mid elevations (possibly 1-2 inches in Idyllwild). Upper elevations may be above the cloud, or may receive light snow, and forecasts have ranged from 0-12 inches for high country snowfall (most recently at the lower end of that range). Another minor storm is tentatively forecast for 5th-7th March, before temperatures rise to above seasonal yet again from 9th March.
At San Jacinto Peak (3295m/10,810ft) on Thursday 29th February 2024 at 0830 the air temperature was 24.4°F (-4°C), with a windchill temperature of 7.9°F (-13°C), 38% relative humidity, and a steady WSW wind sustained at 15 mph gusting to 19.5 mph.
At the Peak on Monday 26th February 2024 at 0840 the air temperature was 28.6°F (-2°C), with a windchill temperature of 12.2°F (-11°C), 89% relative humidity, and a sharp due West wind sustained at 13 mph gusting to 23.0 mph.
At the Peak on Wednesday 21st February 2024 at 1205 the air temperature was 23.3°F (-5°C), with a windchill temperature of 3.2°F (-16°C), 100% relative humidity, and a bitter WSW wind sustained at 14 mph occasionally gusting to 24.4 mph.
TRAIL CONDITIONS
There is increasingly patchy light snow cover on all trails between 6000-6800 ft, becoming continuous above about 6800 ft (except on the most sun-exposed trails such as lower Deer Springs) but continuous everywhere and significantly deeper above about 7500 ft. Excellent well-traveled and compacted tracks are now in place for most of the major trails (details below). Snow depths measured at specific locations are given below.
Carrying spikes is recommended everywhere above about 7000 ft. The well-traveled trails are largely ideal for spikes at this time, although crampons are an excellent option until mid morning at least, especially above about 9000 ft.
Crampons are required on the north side of Tahquitz Peak (discussed below) and are becoming increasingly useful everywhere in the high country – especially for the relatively cool next week or two – as the snow undergoes freeze-thaw cycles and compaction.
Snowshoes can be valuable everywhere above about 8000 ft elevation on warm days and later in the day on sunny slopes. They are currently less useful on the established tracks which are well compacted, but that may change with new snowfall and/or warmer, sunnier weather. Snowshoes are recommended for any significant off-trail travel away from the defined tracks in the high country, other than on cold early mornings when all high elevation snow is firm.
Tracks known to be broken through the snow at this time are the Ernie Maxwell Trail, South Ridge Trail to Tahquitz Peak on the south side of the peak, Devil’s Slide Trail, onward via the PCT, Wellman and Peak trails to San Jacinto Peak, from Long and Round valleys up to Wellman Divide, Deer Springs Trail, and Marion Mountain Trail. As of 26th February there were no reliable tracks on Fuller Ridge Trail and Seven Pines Trail.
Devil’s Slide Trail is now clear of snow up to 6800 ft (switchback 3). Thereafter snow cover is largely continuous, with a well-defined, compacted track, best for either barebooting or for spikes all day. The Trail Report undertook extensive trail maintenance work on 15th February to remove many damaged tree limbs in and over the trail resulting from an early February ice storm.
Ernie Maxwell Trail [surveyed 27th February] is now functionally clear of snow, with just a handful of tiny patches remaining close to Humber Park.
There are very lightly traveled snowshoe tracks around the Tahquitz area meadows, but not generally accurately following the established trail routes. These have become somewhat obscured in the recent fresh snow. As of 29th February, a mixed posthole/snowshoe track is in place on Willow Creek Trail as far as the “King Trail”, continuing from there down to Laws.
The Peak Trail track now quite accurately follows the true trail route. However near Miller Peak at about 10,400 ft the track ascends directly up the East Ridge route, rather than following the Peak Trail switchback, as is traditional in snow conditions. Following the freezing rain on 27th, and subsequent ice fall, the track is partly obscured by ice above 10,350 ft, and good route-finding skills are required.
Deer Springs Trail is largely clear of snow up to the Suicide Rock junction (near 7000 ft). For the next 0.5 mile snow cover is about 50%, and then abruptly becomes 90% snow covered above about 7300 ft through to Strawberry Junction. This section has not been heavily traveled, so there is no compacted route but rather a heavily postholed track through soft and locally deep snow on this largely sun-exposed slope (not very pleasant). North from Strawberry Junction, the PCT initially has a lightly traveled posthole track, but after a mile most tracks disappear and only a barely traveled posthole track continues through to the top of Marion Mountain Trail (8700 ft).
Above Marion Mountain Trail, there is a well-traveled and compacted track mixing snowshoe, crampon, and spike tracks, and this solid track is ideal for spikes. The route largely follows the PCT to the Fuller Ridge junction. Thereafter the track only vaguely follows the Deer Springs Trail route up to Little Round Valley, but it gets you there. Above Little Round Valley the diminishing number of tracks fragments into a mess of at least half-a-dozen routes, none of which remotely follow the trail and all of which head more-or-less directly upslope (as is traditional in decent snow conditions).
Marion Mountain Trail has an excellent compacted track to follow up to Deer Springs Trail, ideal for spikes. Snow is becoming patchy in the first mile up to about 7000 ft, but is continuous thereafter. Although the track does not accurately follow the trail route in a few minor places, but again, it gets you up to the Deer Springs Trail junction.
The 0.4 mile section of South Ridge Trail between Chinquapin Flat/PCT and Tahquitz Peak has no track to follow at this time through 2-5 feet of heavily drifted and angled ice and icy snow. Neither snowshoes nor spikes are especially helpful at this time, due to the angled slope and structure of the snow, respectively. Crampons (always with an ice axe) are recommended on this section at this time, along with the necessary skills and experience to use that equipment in icy, angled terrain.
Spitler Peak Trail is clear of snow, however it suffered badly during the ice storms in early February, and I found 34 new treefall hazards down during my survey on 25th February, almost all in the upper half. Most are relatively small and readily passable, but a few are larger, and the combined effect is to make for a slower and scrappier hike.
Fobes Trail [surveyed 28th February] is completely clear of snow. There is one major stump down and half-a-dozen new minor treefall hazards, but none are significant obstructions for hikers.
Current snow cover on the PCT is minimal from Miles 151 (Highway 74) to about 163. Snow is then thin and patchy, largely confined to north- and east-facing slopes, until about Mile 174. See comments below regarding specific conditions around Apache Peak (Mile 169.5). Snow cover is then functionally continuous between Miles 174-194. There are currently no reliable tracks on Fuller Ridge (Miles 185.5-191). At this time, nobo hikers should consider taking alternates at either Fobes Trail (Mile 166) or Spitler Peak Trail (Mile 168.5) to avoid the worst of the icy snow slopes from Miles 169-175. This situation will continue to change over the coming days and weeks with a sequence of melting periods and minor storms alternating into mid March (at least).
A significant icy snow slope remains on the north-east side of Apache Peak (photo below). At this time spikes at a minimum, but preferably crampons, plus an ice axe, and crucially the skills and experience to use this equipment on angled icy snow, are required to traverse this section. While one option for nobo hikers is to go up and over the saddle between double peaks of Apache to avoid this traverse, there are further significant icy chutes and slopes in the next few miles, especially at present around Red Tahquitz (Miles 174-175.5), some of which have proven to be equally problematic in past seasons. Alternates at Miles 166 and 168.5 are recommended as mentioned above.
PCT hikers should not attempt to use South Ridge Trail from the PCT at Chinquapin Flat (roughly Mile 177.7) to Idyllwild via Tahquitz Peak, even though this looks temptingly simple on apps and maps. There are no steps to follow through a lengthy section of steeply angled (and notoriously treacherous) ice slopes. Crampons, always with an ice axe, and expert knowledge of how to use this equipment on high angle terrain, are critical. Even in low snow years like 2024 these slopes always take many weeks longer to clear of ice than adjacent areas, and they are likely to remain treacherous into April this year.
SNOW DEPTHS measured on 26th February 2024 are as follows. The first number gives current average total depth. Reductions in totals since the last Report are due to melting and compaction. The number in parentheses gives the greatest depth at that location this winter (where known). Note that averages are given; due to strong winds accompanying most storms this winter there has been considerable drifting, plus considerable uneven melting. Altitudes and PCT mileages are approximate.
San Jacinto Peak (10810 ft): 44 inches (was 55-60 inches on 8th February)
Little Round Valley (9800 ft): 36-40 inches
Wellman Divide (9700 ft): 28 inches (was 41-43 inches on 8th February)
Annie’s Junction/approx. PCT Mile 181.8 (9070 ft): 36-38 inches (was 48-50 inches on 8th February)
Long Valley (8600 ft): 10-12 inches (was 24 inches on 8th February)
Strawberry Junction/PCT Mile 183 (8100 ft): 8 inches, ranging from 0-12.
Saddle Junction/PCT Mile 179.9 (8070 ft): 11-12 inches (was 31 inches on 8th February)
Devil’s Slide Trail at Humber Park (6550 ft): 0-4 inches (was 15 inches on 8th February)
Idyllwild (at 5550 ft): 0 inch (was 9 inches on 8th February)
Mountain Center (4400 ft): 0 inch (was 3 inches on 9th February)
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